Some newbie questions

[acesound]

Hello,

 

I have two weeks with a GT350 (white w/blue stripes) and since this is my first mustang I have a lot of questions.

 

First I'm not complaining but I just wanted to know if the gas needle should move quite that fast. I don't recall right now what mpg number I'm getting but it is my impression gas goes relatively fast on normal city driving. I'm still in the process of getting to know the car and it's capabilities. What are your experience in this topic?

 

Second, I'm trying to learn what I should "read" from the floating oil pressure gauge, as this is the first car I have owned that has this.

 

Last, would you agree that keeping revs under 3500 would be a good reference before the engine is actually warm-up?

 

Thank you.

 

PS

Enjoying the car very much!

 

Adrian.

Edited April 20, 2016 by acesound

[Seabee]

Adrain,

 

I have only had mine for a few days, but have noticed that my mileage has been averaging 9.8 mpg. Around town if you keep the revs up you'll burn more fuel. If you look at the supplementa, there is a chart for max fuel econ. (see below)

 

From the Supplemental:

 

Upshift according to the following chart:

Shift from Recommended speed

1 - 2 13 mph (21 km/h)

2 - 3 24 mph (39 km/h)

3 - 4 31 mph (50 km/h)

4 - 5 39 mph (63 km/h)

5 - 6 43 mph (69 km/h)

 

BUT WHO is going to do that????

 

Now the Voodoo V8, rev limiter is at 8250 rpm, for comparison sake, this is up in Italian V-Twin Motorcycle Territory. The Voodoo engine, is a little lazy under 3500 rpm, near wear max torque is, vary similar to my Ducati (it likes anything over 4000/5000)

 

 

My 2011 GT500, was rev happy, but not like this. I routinely averaged 16.5 mixed, 22/23 on the highway, but I saw as low as 10.5 around town depending how heavy my left foot was in it.

 

Also, please remember the the EPA Fuel Econ test almost can't be replicated in everyday driving. It's just how the test is.

 

As for warming up, once the throttle kicks down from the initial start up, you good to drive. But, the engine will not be 100%, until at actual op temp of 190 F.

 

Also note from supplemental.

Redline is limited to 8000 RPM until the engine oil temperature exceeds 190°F (88°C)

 

Pete

[07gt500conv]

I have been driving mine and have approx 300 miles on her in a week and half.

 

Driving around Orlando, going to Disney on interstate averaging around 20 mpg...have not rev'e above 4000 yet...just learning the car...

[Voodoo Child]

Hello,

 

I have two weeks with a GT350 (white w/blue stripes) and since this is my first mustang I have a lot of questions.

 

First I'm not complaining but I just wanted to know if the gas needle should move quite that fast. I don't recall right now what mpg number I'm getting but it is my impression gas goes relatively fast on normal city driving. I'm still in the process of getting to know the car and it's capabilities. What are your experience in this topic?

 

Second, I'm trying to learn what I should "read" from the floating oil pressure gauge, as this is the first car I have owned that has this.

 

Last, would you agree that keeping revs under 3500 would be a good reference before the engine is actually warm-up?

 

Thank you.

 

PS

Enjoying the car very much!

 

Adrian.

 

 

First of all, congrats! ...Now, that been said …I am a little concerned that it is the first ‘Stang of this caliber under your saddle. I suggest that you maintain a brake-in protocol (read the manual) …the intent is to let the cylinders and associated moving metal components in the drive-train finish settling and honing in a gradual fashion. Try to avoid highway driving for too long (avoid using the cruise control) of a period and if you must do so, do it at various rpm/speed settings. i.e. a 70mph speed limit …use a 20 mile speed variation using an rpm range under 4K …personally, I will wait ‘till the end of the 500 mile brake-in period before pushing above 5K rpm (again, all without pushing the car) The “shifting chart” that was posted will be a good guide as long as the rpm limits are observed. Also, avoid revving the engine while at a stop. The above procedure has worked well for me in the past. I would also consider changing the oil and filter once the brake-in period its completed. If I may suggest that once you are ready to open her close to red-line ...do it in a track environmnet or safe place until you develop the feel for the control envelope. SIgn-up for the driving school (Track Attack) if you can... it if free for new owners! I dont have the website address available but someone here may be able to post it for you. Be well!

Edited April 21, 2016 by Voodoo Child

[acesound]

Thank you Pete, Jim and VoodooChild for the nice tips and info.

 

I'm very much in the learning curve for a car with this much power. My first track day will be on May. Looking forward for that. I do plan on hitting driving school/clinics because I really want to learn the right way.

 

I will check what I can hit in terms of MPG and follow for tips.

 

Thanks and happy motoring!

 

Adrian.

[Voodoo Child]

Thank you Pete, Jim and VoodooChild for the nice tips and info.

 

I'm very much in the learning curve for a car with this much power. My first track day will be on May. Looking forward for that. I do plan on hitting driving school/clinics because I really want to learn the right way.

 

I will check what I can hit in terms of MPG and follow for tips.

 

Thanks and happy motoring!

 

Adrian.

 

 

Go to this site: www.GT350TrackAttack.com ...you have one year from date of purchase to take advantage of the program.

 

Be well,

[garagelogic]

I've had my R since then end of January, and after 3400 miles, it's averaging about 20mpg in combined city/highway driving. I pretty much babied it for the first 1500 miles to let everything break in. I was not worried as much about engine break-in as I was transmission/rear ended. What do you mean by floating oil pressure?

[acesound]

Hello,

 

I mean that the needle does quite a bit of moving around. I'm not saying there is something wrong just wanted to know a little of hoy oil pressure "should" behave. Thanks.

 

Have you made your first oil change?

[svttim]

Hello,

 

I mean that the needle does quite a bit of moving around. I'm not saying there is something wrong just wanted to know a little of hoy oil pressure "should" behave. Thanks.

 

Have you made your first oil change?

 

Still hard to understand the float comment. The oil pressure does change at different RPM's but the needle should not bounce. I have mine over 300 Miles and I have taken it to red-line with no issues. Remember, the RPM's should be varied during brake in. The 500 mile period is generous

[acesound]

Ok, I'll be more observative and thank you for your input.

[acesound]

Another Question: Tips for taking care of the alcantara steering wheel?

 

Thanks.

[ShakeMe]

Another Question: Tips for taking care of the alcantara steering wheel?

 

Thanks.

Gloves

[garagelogic]

Hello,

 

I mean that the needle does quite a bit of moving around. I'm not saying there is something wrong just wanted to know a little of hoy oil pressure "should" behave. Thanks.

 

Have you made your first oil change?

Two already, as a matter of fact. The first at 500 miles and the second at 2000 miles.

[Seabee]

For cleaning the Alcantara I have found that the Sonax works the best for me. See link below, you can also get it from other dealers.

 

http://www.autogeek.net/sonax-alcantara-cleaner1.html

[Voodoo Child]

OK ...I will try to explain the issues associated w a break-in period (at least from an aviation perspective, which deals w a very detrimental consequence ...engine failure). The idea for the process is to allow the rings to settle/hone-in as the walls and the rings friction against each other. This friction will optimally create sufficient channels and clearance on the cylinder wall to allow oil to remain in an almost microscopic oil reservoir (channels) …thus providing proper and constant lubrication as the piston moves (metal friction). The Break Mean Effective Preasure (BMEP) and HEAT, are two factors that must be balanced to optimally create the ideal marrying of rings and cylinder walls. Too much heat creates an undesirable coat/glaze on the wall …this glaze, which is the byproduct of the oil breaking down due to excessive heat and prevents optimal lubrication. As a result, performance is degraded. Also, higher oil consumption and metal wear-and-tear will ensue. Occasional/momentary and gradual increase of RPM (bracketed schedule) will help with increased BMEP, which is good for the ring seating process as long as one do not sustaining high rpm with high temps… each type/grade of oil have a break-down temp rating …manufactures should have info on that. Some high performance motorcycle engines go thru an accelerated break-in scheduled using a corresponding table/period, which is closely monitored. The consequence of pushing the engine (high RPMs/high temps) at the wrong stage (rings not completely/fully seated) is the glazing, which in turn affects efficiency (oil consumption and ability to provide even/effective lubrication and cooling) and performance (increased BMEP should increasingly and evenly place ring pressure against the cylinder wall, thus making an effective seal that results in a desired compression.)

 

Regarding the oil pressure ... think of it as your own blood pressure, the more active you become ...the higher the heart rate, which is needed to circulate the oxygen carrying blood cells to satisfy demand ...this increase in rate results in higher vascular pressure... every system(fluid) has a rated pressure range. The weakest point in a fluid system, sets the tolerance limit(s). Normally In a human, is the capillary wall …too high a pressure and it bursts causing a leak/hemorrhage!! It is also known as a Stroke! In a car call it… a blown engine! OK lads; hope I have not complicated the issue.

Edited April 28, 2016 by Voodoo Child

[acesound]

Hello, other questions that have pop to my mind

My car has a sticker that it was made in Flat Rock Plant, are there many plants producing the GT350/R ?

 

Have you notice the green icon for the fog lights comes on in the instrument cluster? I know they were removed to make room for the brake ducts intakes. Just a curious detail maybe was the solution they found in order to not make wiring changes....

 

Does similar things have happend to you in regards of young kids hitting you on the street or the highway and trying to race you? Today a kid in his new camaro was almost out of his mind because I refused to race him, he was so into it that he didn't notice traffic was getting dense and hit the car in front of him, as he was to right of me. I just continued in my lane as I was returning to work after lunch brake.

 

Best regards everyone and happy motoring!

 

By the way I'm getting like 18mpg and hitting the 500m mark.

[sheppd01]

 

Does similar things have happend to you in regards of young kids hitting you on the street or the highway and trying to race you? Today a kid in his new camaro was almost out of his mind because I refused to race him, he was so into it that he didn't notice traffic was getting dense and hit the car in front of him, as he was to right of me. I just continued in my lane as I was returning to work after lunch brake.

 

Best regards everyone and happy motoring!

 

By the way I'm getting like 18mpg and hitting the 500m mark.

That's why I rarely drive without at least one camera on.

[07gt500conv]

Drove mine over to Tampa last week, 80 mph averaged 22 mpg....

 

Going to take it to dealership for first oil change next week...month old May 10) 1,000 miles