jaydub Mach1 Posted April 29, 2014 Report Share Posted April 29, 2014 I'm the original owner of my 2007 SGT that's been my daily driver since day one. However, now, I would like to correct the suspension settings that are out of spec due to the installation of the Ford Racing Handling Package FR3 as our cars were being converted to Shelby GT's. I did a search on the forum but only found bits of information here and there. For example, I've purchased the Shelby adjustable pan-hard rod to re-center the rear wheels back to the centerline of the chassis. Is that all I need to bring the rear wheels back to spec? For the front wheels, do I need to purchase caster/camber plates? I have also seen that a bump steer kit is recommended. Is that correct? What else is needed for the front suspension. Thanks in advance for all of your help!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
springer Posted April 30, 2014 Report Share Posted April 30, 2014 Get a set of camber bolts. They will work fine to bring it back to specs. Try the link below. http://www.americanmuscle.com/eibach-proalign-bolts-0512.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin Patten Posted April 30, 2014 Report Share Posted April 30, 2014 Get a pair of caster/camber plates from SPP and the adjustable rear pan-hard bar - period. If you want buy a set of strut bolts for a 2011+ that would be advisable since FORD had some problems with the earlier 2005-2010 strut bolts not being adequate (this is why I don't recommend cam bolts on the strut) . The thread pitch is different and so is the torque setting (166 ft/lbs verses 149 ft/lbs) . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EL SHELBY Posted April 30, 2014 Report Share Posted April 30, 2014 I was able to have my front end aligned within OE tolerances without any additional parts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carl Bishop Posted April 30, 2014 Report Share Posted April 30, 2014 Get a set of camber bolts. They will work fine to bring it back to specs. Try the link below. http://www.americanmuscle.com/eibach-proalign-bolts-0512.html If you go the route of purchasing the Eibach camber bolts like I did, buy them directly from the Eibach website, they sell for $30 with free shipping and no tax. I'm installing mine in a couple of weeks with an alignment soon to follow. I also installed the AM SR Performance panhard bar, great piece for $115. My rear end was out 3/8" towards the drivers side, now its dead center. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ITHERTZ66 Posted April 30, 2014 Report Share Posted April 30, 2014 Great thread. I hope to learn more here. My Hertz with 45K miles will be in need of some suspension work (rear end creaks over bumps and such). What are the proper/ideal alignment specs for our cars (Street setup)??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaydub Mach1 Posted April 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 30, 2014 Great thread. I hope to learn more here. My Hertz with 45K miles will be in need of some suspension work (rear end creaks over bumps and such). What are the proper/ideal alignment specs for our cars (Street setup)??? Not to hijack my thread, but I had/have the same creaks that come from the rear end going over bumps. In my case, it is the rear sway bushings. The noise started a few months after I bought the car new. I've had my car serviced at the same dealer I bought it from and it took us a few attempts to resolve the issue. After several months, the rear sway bar bushing lose their grease. It happens around the same time it's due for an oil change. So, during the oil change service, I have them re-grease the bushings and retighten the bushing mounting bolts it needed. The noise goes away and I'm good to go until the next oil change. Hopefully, yours is a simple. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EL SHELBY Posted May 1, 2014 Report Share Posted May 1, 2014 Unfortunately greasing the sway bar bushings via the zerk fitting doesn't help. All it greases is the outside of the bushing. Either a hole needs to drill through the bushing so that grease can pass through or the bushing must be pulled and greased by hand. At least this is the case for my SGT. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ITHERTZ66 Posted May 1, 2014 Report Share Posted May 1, 2014 Unfortunately greasing the sway bar bushings via the zerk fitting doesn't help. All it greases is the outside of the bushing. Either a hole needs to drill through the bushing so that grease can pass through or the bushing must be pulled and greased by hand. At least this is the case for my SGT. Any of you here have a step by step on how to perform this operation? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheKurgan Posted May 1, 2014 Report Share Posted May 1, 2014 Ever since I got out the WD-40 can about 5 years ago, I haven't heard a peep out of those bushings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank S Posted May 1, 2014 Report Share Posted May 1, 2014 Ever since I got out the WD-40 can about 5 years ago, I haven't heard a peep out of those bushings. Here's the question: do you flood the area with WD-40 and count on capillarity to ooze the lubricant into useful space? Or does any application require partial or complete dis-assembly, in which case application of a genuine lubricant is probably warranted. Seems to me WD-40 is only incidentally a lubricant, chiefly a moisture-replacement vehicle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
REDTAIL Posted May 1, 2014 Report Share Posted May 1, 2014 I went with the Camber Bolt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheKurgan Posted May 6, 2014 Report Share Posted May 6, 2014 Here's the question: do you flood the area with WD-40 and count on capillarity to ooze the lubricant into useful space? Or does any application require partial or complete dis-assembly, in which case application of a genuine lubricant is probably warranted. Seems to me WD-40 is only incidentally a lubricant, chiefly a moisture-replacement vehicle. Yeah I'm' not recommending it, but hey what works works. I have never taken my bushings or sway bars off so yeah I just squirted WD40 all over it a couple times. I do it on all my truck suspension bushings too. I fully expect some squeaking out of my new A-Arms with poly bushings too. I'll grease the hell out of them just like I did the FRPP bushings but I still expect them to squeak. It's the nature of the beast I'm afraid. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.