Rarecat Posted July 8, 2013 Report Share Posted July 8, 2013 Just a heads up for those individuals installing the Watts Link themselves, the instructions are not the best. I attempted to install my recently bought unit this weekend and aborted after a few hours of frustration. FYI: I have a shop with a lift and a full set of tools. I reviewed the instructions prior to starting the job and it looks like it was going to be a breeze.... not so fast my friend Here are the issues that are not covered in the instructions: Once you install the brace, you can not get the pivot bolt into the brace, there is not enough room and partial removal of the brace is required If you install the center pivot in the center or upper alignment hole, you can't get the bolts into the center pivot for the rod ends, again, there is not enough room. Finally the alignment procedures are not clear in the instructions, but it really has to be done with the weight of the car on the rear suspension and the convertible specific tie rod adds another wrinkle. (by the time I got to this point, I got fed up and took it back out) So the net suggested solution to these two issues is to preinstall the center link and center tie rod ends prior to bolting the brace into place. And for those with a convertible, remove the vert braces prior to install (again, not in the instructions) Will reattempt install at a later date...... enjoy! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jer Posted July 8, 2013 Report Share Posted July 8, 2013 Just a heads up for those individuals installing the Watts Link themselves, the instructions are not the best. I attempted to install my recently bought unit this weekend and aborted after a few hours of frustration. FYI: I have a shop with a lift and a full set of tools. I reviewed the instructions prior to starting the job and it looks like it was going to be a breeze.... not so fast my friend Here are the issues that are not covered in the instructions: Once you install the brace, you can not get the pivot bolt into the brace, there is not enough room and partial removal of the brace is required If you install the center pivot in the center or upper alignment hole, you can't get the bolts into the center pivot for the rod ends, again, there is not enough room. Finally the alignment procedures are not clear in the instructions, but it really has to be done with the weight of the car on the rear suspension and the convertible specific tie rod adds another wrinkle. (by the time I got to this point, I got fed up and took it back out) So the net suggested solution to these two issues is to preinstall the center link and center tie rod ends prior to bolting the brace into place. And for those with a convertible, remove the vert braces prior to install (again, not in the instructions) Will reattempt install at a later date...... enjoy! There are several areas in the Instruction Sheet we feel need changing, including the sections you describe. We will be working with Jim Fay about re-doing that sheet with modifications ASAP. Sorry for the headache, and call me if I can help with any other questions... Jer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bpodner Posted July 8, 2013 Report Share Posted July 8, 2013 Got mine in without removing the convertible braces. Did the whole thing on jack stands in my garage. I agree that the instructions could be better, including a note to reinstall the drivers side panhard bar bolt IF you are using lower control arm relocation brackets. Either way, you'll love it once you get it installed!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snake Handler Posted July 8, 2013 Report Share Posted July 8, 2013 I installed on my '08 Vert on ramps and did not remove the vert braces. If you have issues call Jim Fay. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Denstang65 Posted July 8, 2013 Report Share Posted July 8, 2013 Just wondering, does anyone make a Watts link for '65 stangs with 8" rear ends? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rarecat Posted July 8, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 8, 2013 It's obviously going to be easier the second time around, the point of the post is that the instructions were lacking and I wanted to give others a heads up on the issues I found. It was like doing the installation "Hokey Pokey", for every step forward I made, I had to take two steps back. It didn't help that it was 90+ degrees in Florida Humidity and that I didn't have a second hand to help. I'm glad others found it easy and I appreciate that Jer is working on changes to the install procedures going forward. Your results may vary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wingsnut Posted July 8, 2013 Report Share Posted July 8, 2013 I don't mean to make light of the situation and I admit that the instructions could include a few more details, but I didn't find the install all that difficult. Now that does not mean that I did not have to give Jim a call on a few things. It was a learning experience for me and I had the luxury of taking my time, I quite enjoyed it. I know how you feel though......you trek though cyberspace reading about how everyone is installing all this fancy stuff apparently without issue and then when you take the plunge all these little problems and unanswered questions come up. You're thinking.......damn it, how did everyone else do this so easy? Trust me, we all have our moments, some days it's best to do just what you did and get back to it another day. Stay with it, give Jim a call or hit the forums with your questions. It is worth it, the watts link gives a lotta bang for the buck. (it was waaaay easier than swapping out the tranny in my Excusion by myself, now that I will never do again) Chip Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
F150 Duke Posted July 15, 2013 Report Share Posted July 15, 2013 I'm going to try and install the billet version on my '11 GT500 (non track pack) this weekend. I reviewed the instructions and have searched online, finding this thread with the recommendation to "preinstall the center link and center tie rod ends prior to bolting the brace into place.". Are there any other tips or tricks? I'm going to try and get my car backed up my race ramps and let the front sit on the ground. I've only ever pulled up the ramps and that was a PITA so this should be interesting. How about, how are you guys measuring to see the rear end is centered within the car? I have to be exact because I have 11.5 Alcoas with 335/30 tires and the Alcoas had the hubs shaved by .25". So I have very little side to side room to play with between the fender and wheel well. Thus the reason I'm going to a watts link. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wingsnut Posted July 15, 2013 Report Share Posted July 15, 2013 How about, how are you guys measuring to see the rear end is centered within the car? I have to be exact because I have 11.5 Alcoas with 335/30 tires and the Alcoas had the hubs shaved by .25". So I have very little side to side room to play with between the fender and wheel well. Thus the reason I'm going to a watts link. I put my stock tires back on and used a plumb bob on each side. As far as backing up on the ramps goes, before I got my lift I just used my floor jack and set the car down on the ramp one side at a time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MMcGuirk Posted July 16, 2013 Report Share Posted July 16, 2013 Just wondering, does anyone make a Watts link for '65 stangs with 8" rear ends? Call Jim Fay, I believe he does. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MMcGuirk Posted July 16, 2013 Report Share Posted July 16, 2013 I'm going to try and install the billet version on my '11 GT500 (non track pack) this weekend. I reviewed the instructions and have searched online, finding this thread with the recommendation to "preinstall the center link and center tie rod ends prior to bolting the brace into place.". Are there any other tips or tricks? I'm going to try and get my car backed up my race ramps and let the front sit on the ground. I've only ever pulled up the ramps and that was a PITA so this should be interesting. How about, how are you guys measuring to see the rear end is centered within the car? I have to be exact because I have 11.5 Alcoas with 335/30 tires and the Alcoas had the hubs shaved by .25". So I have very little side to side room to play with between the fender and wheel well. Thus the reason I'm going to a watts link. You can install it on jack stands, but all four wheels have to be loaded to correctly adjust the link. Before I got access to a four post lift, I installed then took to my alignment shop and had them set it up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
07gt500conv Posted August 9, 2013 Report Share Posted August 9, 2013 07NAJA and I installed mine in about 1.5 hrs, but he had installed his first so we knew what had to come off and the pitfalls to the instructions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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