msbmustang Posted July 17, 2012 Report Share Posted July 17, 2012 Well I am about to need another set of new front pads and rotors (this will be the third set). Hit 117k miles this week with the new McLeod clutch and Coast Driveline AL drive shaft. (Which are working quite nicely except for a driveline harmonic at 2kRPM.) I noticed however that my metallic brake pads, from the last brake replacement, seem to be wearing the rotors out much faster than the regular pads. At 18K miles you can feel a lip on the outside edge of the rotors now. I just wanted to know if anyone has upgraded their brakes/rotors to something more robust than the stock setup as it appears our present fronts are a bit undersized? Or is it normal to replace rotors and pads every 20-30K miles or so? I don't drive that hard by the way except for the fact I do drive it around 100 miles every day, 5 days a week. Thanks everyone for any info you may have on my "wearing the brakes/rotors out too quickly" problem. Mark / MSB Mustang Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msbmustang Posted July 18, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 18, 2012 In addition I was reading online, on another SVT site that, solid rotors have some advantages over cross drilled and slotted rotors. The poster said that new brake pads do not have the same outgassing problems as older pads and thus the slotted and cross-drilled rotors are unecessary? Is this total garbage or is there some truth in it? The artilce also said that off road vehicles require drilled/slotted rotors to allow the mud to be pushed out through the holes/slots? T/F? Just trying to determine why I am wearing out rotors every 25K miles? My daily drive does go from sea level to 900 ft and back to sea level twice a day. Best HMB Regards, Mark / MSB Mustang Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rev Dennis Posted July 18, 2012 Report Share Posted July 18, 2012 Ceramic pads are hard on rotors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EL SHELBY Posted July 18, 2012 Report Share Posted July 18, 2012 There is some truth to the solid (not slotted, dimpled, drilled) rotors. For the vast majority of us who make occasional trips to the track there is no need for slotted rotors. Rotors, just as the pads, are a wear item. I don't see the need to invest in high dollor slotted rotors when a solid will perform just as well when combined with an appropriate pad and sufficient cooling. I know guys who will only use solid, one piece rotors on their track only cars because the rotors are expected to last a summer at most on the track. To save cash they go with a high quality solid one piece rotor as any gain they have see by going with any other type of rotor was not worth the investment for the type of driving they did. The best way to improve the Mustang's brakes is to add cooling ducts and drop weight, but those two only really matter for the track. For daily commuting the stock brakes are more than sufficient. For you, with that many miles, not only do you need inspect the pads and rotors but also the general condition of the calipers. Make sure the calipers are greased appropriately to ensure that your pads are not riding on the rotors causing excessive wear. Also need to make sure the brake fluid is still in good condition. Again, with that many miles the fluid should be replaced if you haven't already done so. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msbmustang Posted July 19, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 19, 2012 El Shelby - I am not sure if when the brakes were replaced last time if the fluid was also replaced? I will find out tomorrow. Also I did not know the pads were supposed to have grease in them?! It sounds like you are also saying that solid one piece rotors are just fine. I now have a new one piece drive shaft, new clutch, new tie-rods and now it looks like I need new brakes again. I just hope the engine holds up to 200k miles! Oh, that reminds me... I need to change the oil next week also-7K miles since the last Castrol 5w-50 Syntac high mileage/high Zinc oil was changed, I end up doing oil changes about every 4 months. Also Rev Dennis my pads are metallic not ceramic...and they squeak all the time if I don't clean them every couple of weeks. I can really only easily clean the outside exposed side because the inside is covered by the shield. It also appears now that the metallic pads did not make the brakes last longer (as I was told they would) and also the metallic pads also wore out the rotors quite a bit more quickly that the organic pads did. Maybe I should listen to my wife and park my 2007 GT500 SVT#12 and buy a Ford Focus for commuting. I figured out it would pay for itself in gas savings in about 8 years...BUT that means 8 years of driving of Focus!!! :hammer_self: Thanks for all the information and comments everyone! Mark / MSB Mustang Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EL SHELBY Posted July 19, 2012 Report Share Posted July 19, 2012 Just to make sure we are clear, it's not exactly the pads that need to be grease. It's the guide pins and/or grooves within the calipers that need to be greased allowing the pads to move within the caliper. Over time this grease will breakdown and become caked with dirt and dust which can cause the pads to hang on the rotors causing excessive wear to both the pads and rotors. I just went through this on my wife's truck. Appearantly this was not done when we had her pad and rotors replaces 30k miles ago and the pads hung on the rotors. We just had to replace both rotors and pads again. Any brake service should include an inspection of the calipers to include a cleaning and re-grease as needed. As for the fluid, if you have not requested it directly it's unlikely the fluid has ever been replaced. Again, overtime the fluid will break down and cause the brakes to operate enefficently. Also, as Rev is implying, depending on the make up of the brake pads being used, the wear on the pad and rotors will vary. An aggressive pad will last longer, may take more abuse but can wear your rotors quicker and may cause the brakes to squeak. A soft pad will have a shorter life, will be easier on the rotor and is not likely to squeak but will create a lot of dust. An aggressive pad is usually prefered on the track, but not the street. There plenty of quality pads that are a happy medium between the two. As for the rotors, it's entirely up to you. Slotted, dimpled, drilled rotors can look really cool, but they are not necessarily an improvement in performance/wear. In fact some will say these types of rotors will wear quicker. Here is a great source for brake tech. http://www.stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers Good luck, J- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msbmustang Posted July 20, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 20, 2012 Thanks El Shelby, The car will be going into my "good shop" next week to have the stripes redone… again (minor crash) and they are going to check the front brakes for me. I will pass on all your excellent comments about the grease on the pad pins and the brake fluid. I may just go ahead and replace the brake fluid myself next week. Also my next set of rotors will be solid, not slotted or drilled. After reading several articles about newer brake pads not having out-gassing problems anymore (which was the main reason for drilled rotors many years ago) I decided that Solid Rotors appear to be the way to go. In addition they cost only slightly more than having the old rotors machined and I would rather have thicker new rotors on the fronts. (Brembo W0133-1802515 solid rotors for $65 each or Centric Plain120.61089 solid rotors at Tire Rack for $81 each). Are there larger rotors and pads that we can use with the standard wheels? As an electronics engineer it is always interesting to me that when you start looking at “conventional wisdom” you find that the wrong thing ends up being done over and over again in spite of the facts. However checking for facts online can be…Problematic. It does appear though that for street driving solid rotors are the way to go…as confirmed by the members of this “Great Forum!” Thanks Everyone! Mark / MSB Mustang Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msbmustang Posted January 19, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 19, 2013 Brakes are gone now at 126K miles. Any suggestions for the best non-sloted rotors and pads? Bigger Pads better or not? Also are smaller ceramic pads any better that the larger normal ones? Thanks MSB Mustang / Mark PS - No more metallic pads for me. They were too noisy!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Secondo Posted January 19, 2013 Report Share Posted January 19, 2013 The consensus here on Team Shelby seems to favor the Autozone Duralast Gold C-Max brake pads for stock replacement type: http://m.autozone.com/autozone-mobile/en/parts/Duralast-Gold-Cmax-Brake-Pads-Front/_/N-jpmltZ8ko29?id=60533 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vandy09 Posted January 22, 2013 Report Share Posted January 22, 2013 I'm about to pick up a set of these also. At 34k miles mine have a squeek Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Imatk Posted January 30, 2013 Report Share Posted January 30, 2013 I replaced my brakes with Stoptech ST-60 and there was a definite difference. I'm selling them now if you're interested. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
svttim Posted January 30, 2013 Report Share Posted January 30, 2013 Lots of good info here and spot on. For street duty, solid rotors are fine. It all depends on usage. For track duty I use a two piece slotted rotor. They are the same size as stock but lighter. The idea is to reduce unsprung weight while retaining strength needed. For a street car, its nice but not needed. I will not run any type of drilled rotor as they are prone to cracking durring track use. The size of brakes on the car are fine. Brake pad will determine the performance for the most part. Larger calipers are available but research before you buy. Good luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew DeSpirito Posted January 30, 2013 Report Share Posted January 30, 2013 I run Hawk HPS pads on the street, and DTC60 pads on the track (different rotor sets for each, but both stock). I went with cross-drilled/slotted rotors...once. Wore out very quickly. I also tried Porterfield pads, and they squealed to high heaven! The Hawk HPS to me had the perfect blend of stopping power, longevity, and low dust. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msbmustang Posted February 9, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2013 The Autozone Duralast Gold C-Max brake pads go on tomorrow along with the Duralast vented rotors...but no slots this time. I will report on the results in a few days. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msbmustang Posted July 21, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 21, 2017 Just hit 155k miles on my Duralast Gold C-Max Pads and Duralast solid vented rotors. Time for a change out. They have been fine and the brake dust is 75% improved over the non-ceramic pads. I sometimes wish I had a little better stopping power but 95% of the time this Duralast setup has been fine. Thought I would ask this forum, that game me such great advice the first time, if there are any other front (and it is also time for the rears as they are over 100k now) brake and rotor suggestions I should consider? Working in SF now and the stop and go driving is hard on my brakes. Mark / MSB Mustang Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew DeSpirito Posted July 25, 2017 Report Share Posted July 25, 2017 I made the switch to the Duralast Gold C-Max pads myself about a month ago, and I'm thrilled with the stopping power and WAY less dust. Stock rotors as well. (Huh, look at that - I replied to this thread five years ago!) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spectreman Posted July 31, 2017 Report Share Posted July 31, 2017 https://www.americanmuscle.com/xtremestop-rotor-ceramic-kit-brembo-1114gt.html/ Xtreme Stop Precision Drilled & Slotted Rotor w/ Ceramic Brake Pad Kit - Front & Rear Although there was nothing wrong with my stock Brembos, and they worked perfectly well, I've long wanted a set of cross drilled/slotted rotors if, for no other reason, for the bling factor. I found of set of BNIB Xtremes on craiglist, being offered up by local former Stang owner. He had purchased them for his '11 GT but then sold it before installing them & they were gathering dust in his garage. I got them for a super stupid price, had them installed and gotta say I'm really impressed so far. To begin with, there is ZERO dust from the pads. The OEM pads always left such a mess- not so w/these. The brake look awesome behind the wheel too. The pads are still making some bedding in noises but only heard at lower speeds so it's a non-issue. My OEM discs/pads had about 20k on them and this new set stops much better, I'm assuming strictly because they're new, the break were bled, etc. Overall, I've got nothing but good to say about this set up. And no, my car will never see a racetrack of any sort. I did this mod simply because I wanted to and the opportunity presented itself. Lee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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