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Okay, so here's my dilema: I bought an awesome SGT with a whipple S/C installed that only had a few thousand miles. Now, after driving this beast for awhile I really want to make it into a GT/SC, but while I was at Shelby back in August I asked if there was a way to do portions of the package, of course the answer was no, and I completely understand when it comes to warranty, exclusivity, and overall workmanship. I just can't see removing a 7ish thousand dollar supercharger, returning the car to N/A and then paying SAI to put the same parts back on (plus the extras) for the premium that they're asking.

 

So, here's my question: I want to put the brake package on the car, that was added to the GT/SCs. SPP doesn't list a kit that would seem to match the upfit brochure, but I'm looking for brakes that will fit the original wheels (or similar ones, like mine) Does anyone have the specifics for what the kit was/is?

 

To all those who feel like I'm trying to do this on the cheap--you're right! B) Hey I'm in the military and I'm not made of money!

 

I'm not intending to call the car a GT/SC, I just want to have brakes that match the performance of the engine, and I'd like to have it as close to the "real" GT/SC as I can.

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Just get some take off Brembo GT500 brakes you will be happy that you did. I put the Shelby 6P Baer Pro Plus on mine and for the $2,000 not sure it really was worth the cost. I need brake cooling ducts so I go through front rotors every year at $224 per rotor. I know if I get brake cooling ducts that should make the rotors last longer.

 

I also take mine to the road course and track it about 10 days a year so it does see some hard use.

 

The SC thing is not really going to matter as long as you have the Whipple 550.

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The GT/SC brakes were Baer Decela Rotors, Stainless brake lines.

 

Thanks, this was the info I was looking for, do you what kind of pads were used?

 

Thanks to everybody else that commented as well. Happy driving!

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That brake package is not going to make the car stop 1 foot shorter, however the stock brake system is not that bad. Unless you track the car I wouldn't worry about the brakes. If you do then the cheapest route would be to just upgrade the rotors with some cryo treated ones and put on some track pads.

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Thanks, this was the info I was looking for, do you what kind of pads were used?

 

Thanks to everybody else that commented as well. Happy driving!

 

 

The pads are from Baer as will. All these parts are readily available from any number of retailers including directly from Baer.

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Kurgan, the GT/SC brakes do stop quicker than the stock brakes. If you go to Baer's website, they have a comparison chart with stock GT brakes, GT/SC brake package and the 6-piston brake kit sold by Shelby. I don't remember the stats, by the GT/SC brakes were better than the stock brakes. Of course the 6-piston setup was the best.

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Kurgan, the GT/SC brakes do stop quicker than the stock brakes. If you go to Baer's website, they have a comparison chart with stock GT brakes, GT/SC brake package and the 6-piston brake kit sold by Shelby. I don't remember the stats, by the GT/SC brakes were better than the stock brakes. Of course the 6-piston setup was the best.

 

 

I'm sure they do springer but I'd rather see a 3rd party do the test. I think the only way to get better stopping power(not stamina) is to upgrade the contact patch(bigger rotors/calipers/tires). I've run the stock brakes with upgraded pads and they tore the rotors up pretty good. I would imagine the Baer rotors would be no different with a track pad. I think some cryo rotors would stand up much better. That's what I run on the track now and no signs of overheating at all after 2 or 3 track events. Either way, on the street, I prefer the stock stuff.

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I'm sure they do springer but I'd rather see a 3rd party do the test. I think the only way to get better stopping power(not stamina) is to upgrade the contact patch(bigger rotors/calipers/tires). I've run the stock brakes with upgraded pads and they tore the rotors up pretty good. I would imagine the Baer rotors would be no different with a track pad. I think some cryo rotors would stand up much better. That's what I run on the track now and no signs of overheating at all after 2 or 3 track events. Either way, on the street, I prefer the stock stuff.

 

 

Any recommendation on the cryo rotors?

 

-Tom

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Cryo rotors should be harder/last longer but that doesn't ensure they will perform better. There are so many different factors that go onto braking performance include driver habits that really the only way to know what works best for any individual is to experiment. Different pad compounds, different levels of brake cooling (it is possible to have brake too cool) and variation in brake usage. The absolute best thing anyone can do to improve brake performance is to drop weight out of the car. The OE brakes can be greatly improved upon but they really are not bad if they used and maintained properly.

 

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Baer DecelaRotors all around for me and Hawk HPS pads. The pads are OK for the street, but at Sebring they began to fade after one or two hard laps. Upgrade to track pads if that's what you're planning, otherwise the HPS are fine.

 

I've got stainless lines in the garage, just need to get them installed.

 

Sam

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Any recommendation on the cryo rotors?

 

-Tom

 

Any cryo treated rotor should do. You could just turn and cryo your stockers. I run 14" Powerslot Cryo's on the track with Carbotech pads and Brembo calipers. Also, I'd go with a good DOT4 brake fluid if you're going to be abusing your brakes on the track. Just remember this combo on the street makes alot of noise though due to the harsh pads.

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