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Shelby 8 quart oil pan


dbackg
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I had the new oil pan professionally installed on Friday, November 4, 2011.

 

First of all, this job is not for the novice.

 

The job books out @ 6.7 labor hours, however, it took a little longer.

 

One must drop/remove the sub-frame k-member.

 

Addtional parts needed:

New gasket, part # 3L3Z 6710 AA @ $35.85

8.5 quarts of 5w/50 Motorcraft oil @ $9.50 per quart.

 

Total job cost. $1095

 

1. Shelby 8 quart pan: $389.28

2. Gasket $35.85

3. Oil $85.50

4. Oil filter. $14.99

5. Labor $569.50

 

 

Now the bad .......... rant2.gif

 

The drain plug has a poor weld. Oil is leaking. Also, inside the pan, there are 4 screws, we inspected prior to installing and they were not tight at all, not even hand tight. So double check those.

I spoke with Tim Hill @ Shelby Store, and I am waiting for his reply.

 

Video:http://www.youtube.c...u/0/59UYZofekII

 

See attached pics.

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post-11161-0-35995800-1320701663_thumb.jpg

post-11161-0-96799800-1320701675_thumb.jpg

post-11161-0-38491600-1320701693_thumb.jpg

post-11161-0-25706500-1320701717_thumb.jpg

Edited by dbackg
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I bought the oil pan about a month ago and sometime soon was going to find out how much to install it. WOW I had no idea that you had to remove the subframe k member......Its not really worth a grand to me for this upgrade. I might half to return this but if I do keep it I will test it by putting cheap oil in the pan before installing it to check if there is a leak.

 

I would guess that you just got the one in a million that would leak.

 

I hope they pay for the new install.

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I had the new oil pan professionally installed on Friday, November 4, 2011.

First of all, this job is not for the novice.

The job books out @ 6.7 labor hours, however, it took a little longer.

One must drop/remove the sub-frame k-member.

Addtional parts needed:

New gasket, part # 3L3Z 6710 AA @ $35.85

8.5 quarts of 5w/50 Motorcraft oil @ $9.50 per quart.

Total job cost. $1095

1. Shelby 8 quart pan: $389.282.

2. Gasket $35.85

3. Oil $85.50

4. Oil filter. $14.99

5. Labor $569.50

Now the bad.

The drain plug has a poor weld. Oil is leaking. Also, inside the pan, there are 4 screws, we inspected prior to installing and they were not tight at all, not even hand tight. So double check those.

I spoke with Tim Hill @ Shelby Store, and I am waiting for his reply.

Video:http://www.youtube.c...u/0/59UYZofekII

See attached pics.

 

 

 

Yuck. That's not good.

 

I have a feeling I know what they're going to say. Most parts mfgr.'s don't accept responsibility for parts and labor, just for the part they sold you.

 

Regarding the four loose screws....YIKES! I did not check those before I installed my Shelby 8-qt. pan. Geez, I hope they were tight.

 

I did the job myself and it was pretty easy. With the proper tools, I don't know why it took the Tech longer than the labor guide gives you. I did it on my garage floor, using a creeper laying on my back with the car on jackstands and I doubt I had anywhere near 6 hrs. into the OIL PAN R&R. I can't say for sure because I also used the opportunity to install the FRPP Headers and Shelby tubed K-member while I had the OEM K-member out.

 

The secret to making the job easy is having the right tools. Namely, the engine support bar that supports the engine up in the air, from up top, while you drop the subframe and pan out from the bottom. Without the support bar I don't know that I would have wanted to even attempt the job let alone do it.

 

Good luck with your quest. I hope Tim can help you out more than what I think he'll be able to do.

 

And I HOPE those 4 screws aren't loose in my pan!

 

 

Phill Pollard

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I had the new oil pan professionally installed on Friday, November 4, 2011.

 

First of all, this job is not for the novice.

 

The job books out @ 6.7 labor hours, however, it took a little longer.

 

One must drop/remove the sub-frame k-member.

 

Addtional parts needed:

New gasket, part # 3L3Z 6710 AA @ $35.85

8.5 quarts of 5w/50 Motorcraft oil @ $9.50 per quart.

 

Total job cost. $1095

 

1. Shelby 8 quart pan: $389.28

2. Gasket $35.85

3. Oil $85.50

4. Oil filter. $14.99

5. Labor $569.50

 

 

Now the bad .......... rant2.gif

 

The drain plug has a poor weld. Oil is leaking. Also, inside the pan, there are 4 screws, we inspected prior to installing and they were not tight at all, not even hand tight. So double check those.

I spoke with Tim Hill @ Shelby Store, and I am waiting for his reply.

 

Video:http://www.youtube.c...u/0/59UYZofekII

 

See attached pics.

 

 

Mine is not leaking but everyone is not perfect. They should have had Canton make them and there wouldn't be any issues but live and learn

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Yuck. That's not good.

 

I have a feeling I know what they're going to say. Most parts mfgr.'s don't accept responsibility for parts and labor, just for the part they sold you.

 

Regarding the four loose screws....YIKES! I did not check those before I installed my Shelby 8-qt. pan. Geez, I hope they were tight.

 

I did the job myself and it was pretty easy. With the proper tools, I don't know why it took the Tech longer than the labor guide gives you. I did it on my garage floor, using a creeper laying on my back with the car on jackstands and I doubt I had anywhere near 6 hrs. into the OIL PAN R&R. I can't say for sure because I also used the opportunity to install the FRPP Headers and Shelby tubed K-member while I had the OEM K-member out.

 

The secret to making the job easy is having the right tools. Namely, the engine support bar that supports the engine up in the air, from up top, while you drop the subframe and pan out from the bottom. Without the support bar I don't know that I would have wanted to even attempt the job let alone do it.

 

Good luck with your quest. I hope Tim can help you out more than what I think he'll be able to do.

 

And I HOPE those 4 screws aren't loose in my pan!

 

 

 

Bought one back when Shelby had a sale, but haven't installed it. Was going to be one of my winter upgrades. Hey Phil want to come up and help? LOL I'll buy the beer :beerchug:

 

 

Phill Pollard

 

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I bought the oil pan about a month ago and sometime soon was going to find out how much to install it. WOW I had no idea that you had to remove the subframe k member......Its not really worth a grand to me for this upgrade. I might half to return this but if I do keep it I will test it by putting cheap oil in the pan before installing it to check if there is a leak.

 

I would guess that you just got the one in a million that would leak.

 

I hope they pay for the new install.

 

 

Instead of using Oil, use Gas. Gas is thinner and will fine any Hole or Crack pretty quick.

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<<< Bought one back when Shelby had a sale, but haven't installed it. Was going to be one of my winter upgrades. Hey Phil want to come up and help? LOL I'll buy the beer >>>

 

 

Where in Wyoming are you?

 

Phill Pollard

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Yuck. That's not good.

 

I have a feeling I know what they're going to say. Most parts mfgr.'s don't accept responsibility for parts and labor, just for the part they sold you.

 

Regarding the four loose screws....YIKES! I did not check those before I installed my Shelby 8-qt. pan. Geez, I hope they were tight.

 

I did the job myself and it was pretty easy. With the proper tools, I don't know why it took the Tech longer than the labor guide gives you. I did it on my garage floor, using a creeper laying on my back with the car on jackstands and I doubt I had anywhere near 6 hrs. into the OIL PAN R&R. I can't say for sure because I also used the opportunity to install the FRPP Headers and Shelby tubed K-member while I had the OEM K-member out.

 

The secret to making the job easy is having the right tools. Namely, the engine support bar that supports the engine up in the air, from up top, while you drop the subframe and pan out from the bottom. Without the support bar I don't know that I would have wanted to even attempt the job let alone do it.

 

Good luck with your quest. I hope Tim can help you out more than what I think he'll be able to do.

 

And I HOPE those 4 screws aren't loose in my pan!

 

 

 

Phill Pollard

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Phil tried to send you a pm but it said you cant receive any new messages?

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Gas is a great idea, how would one put the oil pan under pressure to expose the bad/weak tig weld?

 

 

You shouldn't need pressure and in fact your oil sump is typically under a negative pressure due to the PCV system, until you get the RPM's up.

 

*Heat* is what causes the oil to thin out and leak from small cracks and that's why gasoline will show the crack easier than oil, because it's thinner.

 

DO NOT APPLY HEAT TO A PAN FULL OF GASOLINE!!!

 

 

Phill

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Phil tried to send you a pm but it said you cant receive any new messages?

 

 

Eh? Me?

 

I tried to PM Robert M the other day and his box was full.

 

I tried to reply to you in this thread but your reply to me was in a quoted section so it didn't show who to attribute the text to.

 

I asked where in WY you are.

 

Is that what you're talking about???

 

 

Phill

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Gas is a great idea, how would one put the oil pan under pressure to expose the bad/weak tig weld?

 

Wouldn't I just fill the pan full of fuel on the bench before installing it and just look at the welded area and see if there is a leak?

 

39Mustang you said that yours is not PERFECT just curious to why it is not perfect? Please post what made you feel that it is not perfect so we can be on the lookout for that as well.

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Hey Phil,

It says that you can not receive any new messages???

Anyway, Cheyenne

 

 

Ohhhhh, *I* can't receive messeges!

 

I'll have to go check and see why not. I don't think I have that many PM's saved but I'll see.

 

Thanks for letting me know.

 

Oh, and Cyeyenne isn't *that* far from the Springs!

 

 

Phill

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Hey Phil,

It says that you can not receive any new messages???

 

 

 

Fixed.

 

I had 3 pages of saved up old PM"s.

 

 

Thanks again,

Phill

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Wouldn't I just fill the pan full of fuel on the bench before installing it and just look at the welded area and see if there is a leak?

 

39Mustang you said that yours is not PERFECT just curious to why it is not perfect? Please post what made you feel that it is not perfect so we can be on the lookout for that as well.

 

 

Yes, while you have the Oil Pan OFF the Car, just pour Gas in it and wait. I would say with in 15 Minutes you should be able to tell if it Leaks around any of the Welds. You dont have to fill it up, just enough to cover the Welds.

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You shouldn't need pressure and in fact your oil sump is typically under a negative pressure due to the PCV system, until you get the RPM's up.

 

*Heat* is what causes the oil to thin out and leak from small cracks and that's why gasoline will show the crack easier than oil, because it's thinner.

 

DO NOT APPLY HEAT TO A PAN FULL OF GASOLINE!!!

 

 

Phill

 

 

A bucket of gas on the stove,,, boy does that take me back to high school! :finger:

 

Chad, I wouldn't bother with the oil pan until you are ready to switch out the k-member, or add headers, etc. Point being, make the most of the cash spent to drop the k-memeber. I'm slowly aquiring parts and will have them all installed at once to save on the labor and down time.

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A bucket of gas on the stove,,, boy does that take me back to high school! :finger:

 

Chad, I wouldn't bother with the oil pan until you are ready to switch out the k-member, or add headers, etc. Point being, make the most of the cash spent to drop the k-memeber. I'm slowly aquiring parts and will have them all installed at once to save on the labor and down time.

 

 

 

I agree 100%.

The Ford Dealer (Apple Valley Ford) called me back and said $486 to install the oil pan, plus gasket and oil, plus $30 shop supplies............screw it I don't think its worth it.

 

I also have some lower engine mounts and they want $364.50 to install them at the same time and I said isn't it just a couple bolts since you already are removing the k-member and they said thats what it costs if I want that done as well.

I am going to keep shopping around or return the oil pan. SPP should clearly write in the description of the oil pan that this is a major job and that you must remove the K-member.........

 

Just curious to what benifits you would get by upgrading the k-member. I don't know enough about it please inform me.

 

Thanks.

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I also have some lower engine mounts and they want $364.50 to install them at the same time and I said isn't it just a couple bolts since you already are removing the k-member and they said thats what it costs if I want that done as well.

 

 

 

They're "stacking" charges.

 

What they're doing is, taking both book times (R&R oil pan AND R&R motor mounts), adding them up together and using double charging for work.

 

They should be taking the book time off of one of them that is for R&Ring the subframe, which is about 85% of the cost of each job.

 

Find another shop, indy or dealership and get one that only charges the additional time for removing and replacing TWO BOLTS after the K-member is out, because THAT is all there is to it.

 

They have to remove the motor mount stud anyway, and the mounts come down with the subframe and are sitting there right in plain sight. Two bolts (each) and the motor mounts come off. Hold the new mount in place, start the two bolts and tighten. THAT'S IT, DONE (with Renewing Motor Mounts).

 

They're trying to screw you. FWIW, I NEVER double dipped on a job like that. Hell, I'd probably renew the mounts for free if you had me do the job.

 

 

Phill

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Phil this is exactly what I suspected that it would just be two bolts once they remove K member. I have had problems in the past with them and now this totally has convinced me to not go back. One time they replaced the cats on my SGT which was under warranty and they pushed the exhaust back into my bumper and broke the three plastic brackets that prevent the bumper from bouncing off my exhaust.....they eventually had to repalce my bumper and to this day the new bumper does not sit even on the sides of the car near where the side marker lights are.

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Phil this is exactly what I suspected that it would just be two bolts once they remove K member.

 

 

I just happen to have a picture of my motor mounts from when I had my OEM K-member out of the car.

 

For your viewing pleasure.........

 

 

Phill

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post-26522-0-73116200-1320791769_thumb.jpg

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Just curious to what benifits you would get by upgrading the k-member. I don't know enough about it please inform me.

 

 

 

Mostly weight savings. Which will go along way to saving your brakes. It will also be stiffer, if made right, and will make maintenace much easier as it will take up much less real-estate.

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Just curious to what benifits you would get by upgrading the k-member. I don't know enough about it please inform me.

 

 

 

Sorry, I missed this the fist time around.

 

Primarily, it is for weight savings. I think it was 20 lbs. vs. 45 lbs. If you also put tube lower control arms on, you'll save another 11 lbs. per side (I weighed them against each other myself).

 

A bouns is that it looks cool! <lol>

 

The OEM K-member *looks* huge (and is) but I guess looks can be deceiving when it comes to weight. However, I will add that I did NOT weigh the OEM subframe against the Shelby (BMR) subframe so I'm only going by what Shelby and BMR say regarding the weight difference.

 

Oh, and the Shelby K-member drops the engine 1/2" too. You can make a 1/2" spacer to sit between the motor mount pad on the engine and the motor mount itself if you want to keep your engine at OE height but I felt the lower engine (weight) might help it turn a little better, as well as the weight savings.

 

Frankly, I don't think it's worth 500 bucks though (the weight savings).

 

 

HTH,

Phill

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and will make maintenace much easier as it will take up much less real-estate.

 

 

MUCH less.

 

See my previous post regarding the physical size of the OE member vs. the Shelby/BMR k-member (i.e. Subframe).

 

It does clean it up quite a bit, which I descibed as the cool factor.

 

 

Phill

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