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Brembo Speed Bleeders


EL SHELBY

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  • 2 weeks later...

Awsome, Thanks!

 

 

I've seen a lot of different posts from a lot of different folks regarding bleeding either the OEM Brembo's or the Shelby/Baer 6 S/P calipers on Shelby's and Mustang's.

 

I don't understand the need for speed bleeders. When I put my Baer 6S brakes on the front of my 2010 GT500 I gravity bled the new (empty/dry) front brake calipers and I didn't have ANY issues at all with them.

 

Disc brakes do not have residual check valves in them so you can gravity bleed them and it only takes one person without a bleeder hose, pressure bleeder system, mity-vac, etc.

 

The master cylinder reservoir is high enough reletive to the caliper bleeder screws that it takes all of about 10 seconds for the fluid to get from the MC to the caliper and to fill up the caliper, per section (2 sections per side on the Brembo & Baer calipers).

 

It's really easy to do. Start out by making sure your Master Cylinder (MC) is topped off with brake fluid.

 

Open the bleeder screw (ALWAYS located at the top of the caliper, or they are on the wrong side) closest to the brake line banjo fitting (i.e. "inboard"). Keep it open until fluid just starts dribbling out (catch it JUST as it appears in the bleeder outlet and you'll have less/no mess). Wipe the excess fluid off with a shop rag and move to the outboard side.

 

Open the bleeder on the outboard side and wait for fluid to appear. Tighten the bleeder screws to spec and continue.

 

Move over to the other side of the car and repeat.

 

I always start bleeding brakes with the caliper FARTHEST from the master cylinder. If bleeding front and rear, start at the right rear, to go the left rear, then to the right front and end up with the left front. If you are bleeding just front calipers, start on the right (passenger) side, bleed the inboard, then outboad and head over to the left side doing the same (inboard first, outboard last) thing.

 

Just to insure there is no air in the system I give the brake pedal a couple of good mashes and then recheck the calipers for air bubbles in the same order (right side inboard, then outboard, then left side inboard and finaly left side outboard). Always wipe any spilled brake fluid off so as not to get it on any painted surfaces.

 

Oh, and be absolutely sure to keep your master cylinder FULL during the process. If it runs dry during bleeding you will have to start all over again but this time starting at the MC connections working your way towards the calipers (major PITA)!

 

 

HTH,

Phill Pollard

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