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Buschur Racing's new 2011 5 liter


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A very short history to start this off. I started with V8's, many-many years ago. I happened into the Mitsubishi powered DSM's and the rest was history. I've never looked back and I've never had a regret in the path I chose. The DSM's were great to us/me and then came the EVO's which have been even better. I want to make it clear we are 100% committed to the Mitsubishi platform and are in now way getting out of it, I still have to go 8's in the BadBish/RS!! I have more testing coming up shortly with the RS actually.


I bought a new 2008 Shelby GT, 4.6L NA back in 2008. I bought it because the new Mustangs are just plain HOT looking. I love the car. I put a Whipple 550 HO kit on the car, we've developed some exhaust component and brake components for the cars. It was not my goal to sell parts for them, the parts were developed because the market lacked what I needed for my own car. This has been the case for everything we do though I guess, we build what needs to be built and not a bunch of crap that nobody needs.


We've dabbled in the SRT-4 stuff, built some private label Scion parts for another shop, been down the Subaru road a few times. None of it really appealed to me very long and without the passion I can't stick to something and promote it properly.


My '08 Mustang though, I like the car, I keep finding myself messing with something on it and want to do more and more. With the release of the new 5.0 Mustang and the poor sales of the EVOX's at the dealerships I thought it was time to do something else.


About two and half months ago I ordered a new 2011 5 liter. I wanted the most basic car I could get so I ordered the 300A package. 6 speed manual trans, and very few options, a 3.73 rear gear and limited slip along with Ford's front and rear fascia and SS grille. The grill eliminates the factory fog lights and the new lower fascia gives you a spot for two new smaller lights or the option to use Ford Racing's brake duct kit there. I will be adding the brake duct kit on mine.


Today I finally picked the car up from the dealer. I bought the Sterling Gray Metallic with the Charcoal black cloth seats. I do not like leather seats, never have. I requested that the dealer leave all the protective coverings on the entire interior of the car, I'm going to try to keep it spotless while we are working on it, hard to fully appreciate the interior with plastic on everything but I don't want the car trashed.


Here are some various pictures of the car Jarrod took for me today, some of his best work I think!




























The drive home from the dealer was done with the traction control off:) The first thing I noticed when I got in the car was the shifter, it is fantastic. My Shelby has a Hurst shifter in it that is extremely notchy. The shifter in the car is short and smooth as glass, shifting it fast is effortless. Driving the car sideways through 1st and 2nd gear around corners was extremely controllable, like I've come to expect from Mustangs. The power was good, I'm pretty spoiled driving the Evolution around that runs 9.0's but this car felt good. The build quality I am very happy with from initial impressions, nothing looks cheesy or out of place on or in the car.


As soon as we got it back to the shop we put it on the corner scales. I wanted to find out what we were starting with. The balance of the car is very good. I was actually shocked at how close it was.


Left front, 974 pounds

Right front, 962 pounds

Left rear, 830 pounds

Right rear, 828 pounds


It doesn't get much closer than that. Cross weight was 49.8%, it's no wonder the car has had great reviews for handling.


Total weight with an absolutely full tank of fuel was 3593 pounds. While it's no lightweight it's better than I expected.


Here's a picture of the car on the scales and a shot of the corner/total and cross weight information:








Something I'd like to note on the car. The chassis is not nearly as stiff as I am use to dealing with. An EVO you can place a jack behind the front tire and pick the entire car off the ground, nearly evenly, the chassis is very stiff in an EVO. When I attempted to jack the side of the car up on the Mustang I had the left front tire 6" off the ground and the rear tire was still sitting on the ground. I moved the jack and used the rear end and the front support to jack up the ends instead of doing it from the side. Not a big deal but this is certainly a place where the car can be approved for road racing and autocross, stiffening up the chassis.


After we pulled the car off the scales, with only 18 miles on the odometer we loaded it on the dyno. We did a few pulls, 3rd gear, 4th gear and then reviewed the information. I then went to the internet to see what other shops had made with stock 5.0's on other dyno's.


As usual I wasn't surprised to find out Mustang Dyno reads considerably lower than all the other dyno results I could find. One thing that did bother me though was the curve wasn't real smooth. I made a call to the dealership to ask what fuel they put in the car when the filled it...................87 octane. Well that's not good at all. That explains the power being down and the curve not being smooth. We will have to revisit the dyno when I run this tank of fuel out and put some 93 octane in it. For now though the numbers came in at 311 whp and 274 ft lbs. Yes, I know, that's LOW!!! I am sure part of it is from the fuel and the other side of it is our dyno reads low, it is factory calibrated and I refuse to play the dyno games that many other shops do and manipulate the dyno into reading higher. It's a tool to measure results with, that is what has to be kept in mind.


Here is the dyno sheet:




Here's a picture of where the car is going to spend a lot of time!




The plans are simple. Friday night, weather permitting, I will race the car in 100% stock form. Next week we are going to start our testing. You can expect full results and dyno sheets for each and every part we test and develop. We will start with the cat back and work our way forward to the front of the car. A new air filter and inlet will be built, headers and of course the car will get a tune. I'm going to put a set of good tires on the back of it, Mickey Thompson drag radials and then head back to the track.


I'm expecting to see some high 12's in bone stock form with me driving and I'm hoping our exhaust, filter and tune will put the car in the 11's, that is the goal anyway. Given the fact that my Shelby has gone a best of 11.91 at 120.66 mph, I don't think I can get the car to run in the 11's at less MPH than that, I'll give it my best shot but may need to put a real driver in the car.


After we get the results we are looking for from the basics the plan is to turbocharge the car.....because that's what we do! A low boost, quick spooling kit is in the plans and then over the winter we will add forged pistons/rods to the engine and turn up the boost.


My intentions are to build the "BadBish" in a Mustang platform. So a car I can drive and enjoy, road race, autocross and run 8's in in the 1/4 mile. For anyone not familiar with "BadBish" this is my other car:




Follow along and watch the progress as we attempt to build one bad ass 5.0!


Video of the Mustang:



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We were finally able to put enough miles on the car to get the full tank of dealer installed 87 octane out of it. Ran it down to just under a 1/4 tank and filled it with Shell 93. We loaded the car back on the dyno and here's what the results were, solid line is 87 octane and dotted line is mostly 93 octane:




A gain of 30 ft lbs of torque and 26 whp and not in just one area but across basically the entire curve.


Don't put 87 octane in your 5 liter, it doesn't like it!


Off to the track tonight to try and get some base numbers so we can start the build.

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Glad to see you guys doing something for the mustang crowd. I always ran nothing but Buschur racing parts on my DSM. Any plans down the line to help out the GT 500 crowd??? For those that don't know the quality of his parts are top notch I wouldn't hesitate to put his parts on any of my cars. Keep is posted on the results.

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Hope all went well at the track, can't wait to see the results as you guys move forward. As far as the gt500 crowd I guess we can hope that you guys make some parts for us too. I know what ever you guys make will be top notch. By the way are you still in the same building?? From the pics I. Looks like the same place I visited back in 98 or 99.

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Wow...........quite a bit of work for a small amount of power guys.


I was asked, as I said, to test just ditching the cats on the car. I want to get into this market so I am going to attempt to go above and beyond to provide the best parts and the best testing I can.


For other vendors who are reading, I'm not here to make enemies or step on anyone's toes, going to try to just do our thing here and see what happens. I have a lot of respect (at the moment-haha) for a lot of guys on these boards who have been doing this a long time and I'm trying to now play in their sandbox, I'm going to attempt to play in it nicely.


Anyway, factory cats weigh in at 9.4 pounds each. Looks like the same cat I had on my 2008 4.6. The offroad pipe I built weighed in at 3.3 pounds. So a nice 12.2 pounds lost on the weight of the car. The factory tubing is 2.75" at the back of the cat, that is PLENTY large enough for a lot of horsepower considering the car has dual exhaust. The exhaust does get necked down in a few other places but that is for future testing, probably next week.


On the dyno, gains in power were slim from dropping the cats. Peak torque went up 1 ft lb and power rose by 8 whp. To build these offroad pipes from USA made 304 grade stainless steel, put 02 bungs in and TIG weld them they'd cost about $400 for the pair as a guess. The sound of the exhaust barely changed, yes it's a bit louder but not much at all, that was the first sign to me that the gains in power weren't going to be huge.


There are two resonators under the car, I HATE resonators. In some past testing we've done the part we found to be the largest restriction on the entire car was a single factory resonator........could end up being the case on this too.


Sorry, I get off track easy.


While the car was in the shop this morning, the first thing I did was modified the air inlet. Ford did a nice job on the factory air box, it has a LARGE inlet coming from the bottom of it to the front grill of the car. The problem I saw as soon as I looked at the car was the area in the grill that it goes to is blocked off. So yes, it is sucking in clean fresh air but it is still SUCKING it in. We build a Forward Facing turbo kit for the Evolutions. Big gains up top getting the air actually forced into the turbo. I pulled the grill out of the car and cut the back side of it where it was blocking the incoming air, there is a plastic outer grill piece that also needed cut. I then made a carbon fiber plate to direct and separate the incoming air and force it into the factory inlet. It came out quit freaking nice.


While the car was on the dyno with or without the grill opened up the car is going to perform the same. The difference is going to be at speed the air will be forced into the air box more than just sucked. We did 4 back-to-back dyno runs. Then I had one of my guys come and hold our dyno fan about waist high and blow it directly into the front of the opening to the air filter. The fans we have blow air at 44 mph, measured with a wind speed meter. The car gained power on the next two runs, consistently. Cooler air/denser/more of it, hard to say without data logging the car but the gains were there so it was a worthwhile mod to do. The torque stayed the same but peak numbers were up by 3 whp and that gain started at about 5700 rpm and kept climbing. It's honestly hard to split these small gains like this and call them gains as there is of course some variance from run to run on the dyno. BUT, we made 4 runs prior, NONE of those 4 made as much as the last two runs with the fan blowing air into the inlet I built. At 100 mph I'm expecting it to really pick up some power.


Here is the dyno sheet. What this sheet shows is our baseline run on 93 octane, that is the solid red line. The dotted green line is with the addition of the offroad pipes and the blue dotted line is forcing air into the air box.





Here is the baseline of the car how we picked it up with 87 octane in it. Red solid line is stock on 87 octane compared to the car with mostly 93 octane in it now, offroad pipes and the air inlet modified.





Here is the plastic piece that fits behind the actual grill. It's flipped in this picture, so where I cut it is on the left side in this picture.






This is the actual grill, same thing, flipped in the picture, so you can see where I cut it on the left side. Actually you can't see the cuts because they are clean and perfect but compare it to the opposite side where it is blocked off.






This is a picture of the grill back in the car and the straight shot for the air to be forced into the air box.





Here you can see the carbon fiber divider I built.





Good shot of it all in the car and the divider.



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We picked up 1-1.5mph and dropped a tenth with cat delete. I guessed 10lbs max, more the better.


I think the resonators clean up the sound a lot when you go catless, as the car doesn't sound raspy at all. Let us know if you take them off..


Your grill is very different from the factory one, easy to do your mod with your grill.


We had good luck with the stock intake at the track since it pulled cool air when running on 90* days, but picked up 40rwhp when getting rid of it with the rouscharger.

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12.65 at 113.02 was our best ET and MPH today. A friend of mine, Trent drove those runs. My best was 12.82 at 111 mph.


Very pleased with the car and times. I had the clutch pedal problem today with it sticking completely to the floor and hanging on each shifts, piss poor design. A nice guy at the track with a car nearly identical to mine told be to remove the assist spring on the pedal, 100% fixed and improved.


Only real mod done to the car were the off road pipes, 8 whp up top.


The grill is a factory Ford option I ordered when I ordered the car. I don't like the fog lights looks/grill personally.


This coming week I hope to get the full exhaust done, tuned and tires on it, should be easy 11's.

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Dyno testing came out good. The car is up to 354/314 with no tuning. That is the best power the car has made under any condition and in the warmest weather it's been tested.


I don't know that I bought the "DSM" into the car, I did this same thing on the LS1 I had and found that it worked. Like I said with 20 other duals on the market that all perform close to the same and weigh close to the same it's stupid to do another. I'll take the 72 pound weight savings personally.


As for the other cut out. For some it won't matter. Monday I am going to change the exhaust from exiting the drivers side over to exiting the passenger side. I'm doing this for a few reasons, 1. Noise level for the driver. 2. Option of using the V6 rear bumper cover. The other option for someone is we can build a phantom tip to fill the other hole for cosmetics. After two days of running it on my car, the empty hole on the car doesn't bother me.

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I'm in the ECU and tuning. Gains have been tough. The actual feel of the car is night and day though, I'm very happy with it. Power is at 360 now with our header back exhaust and the tune.


Today I built a lightweight battery kit for the car. Had the car back on the scales and between the exhaust, battery kit, spare tire and having less fuel than the first time I weighed it, the car is down over 170 pounds.


I am running the car Saturday and I'm hoping for some solid 11 second passes.

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