sgt1020 Posted October 18, 2010 Report Share Posted October 18, 2010 Any of you guys get that same problem? It doesn't shake violently but it's very noticeable. It only shakes/vibrates a lot when I get above 60 mph or so. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn Greenwell Posted October 18, 2010 Report Share Posted October 18, 2010 I would start with checking the rotars first at a good tire and front end shop, then the tires for broken belts, and see if you have slung off a wheel weight. GG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShelbyGT/SC Posted October 18, 2010 Report Share Posted October 18, 2010 Yes and what a coincidence - I have the same wheels. It is living hell. Tasca has looked at it over and over to no avail. They checked everything and replaced one tie-rod end but that wasn't it. I also have new lower control arms (red BMR ones) and still have the same problem. They have balanced the wheels multiple times. I finally purchased some 18" wheels and can't wait to get them on the car to see if it is gone, but the computer went bad on the car so Tasca has had it for about 3 weeks. As soon as I get it hopefully this week, I will try the new wheels and post the results. All the websites and everyone I spoke with says it's wheels/tires balance issues so I hope the 18's work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FordRocks1 Posted October 18, 2010 Report Share Posted October 18, 2010 My car had a similar problem,I just installed new tires last month, got camber bolts installed, road forced balanced With the GSP9700 Laser machine http://www.gsp9700.com/pub/features/how-4.cfm and had a alignment done. My SGT drives so much smoother now than before. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JASPONY Posted October 18, 2010 Report Share Posted October 18, 2010 I had the same thing around 70mph or so. I lost a weight of the rim; got the wheels re-balanced and it's gone. If you have the same size rims front and rear just swap them and see if it disappears. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EL SHELBY Posted October 18, 2010 Report Share Posted October 18, 2010 I've been fighting the same thing after mounting up new 18" wheels. After having wheels balance three different times it took the final time at a different shop to all but eliminate the issue. I'm now looking into suspension. My issue seems to come and go so I'm thinking bumpsteer. I've considered alignment but have not had it checked. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sgt1020 Posted October 18, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 18, 2010 Very interesting. At least I'm not the only one with this issue. I was thinking maybe getting a steering stabilizer?? I've had my wheels balanced over and over. My wheel weights are perfect, my balancing is perfect, wheels are brand new, and the car is brand spankin' new. I have no clue what to do. I even bought hub centric rings (The wheels did not come with them, meanwhile they are HUB CENTRIC wheels, go figure ) and although the hub rings made the shaking less noticeable, it is still there. My rotors are also in good shape. I'm puzzled. Fordrocks1- you think I should do camber bolts as well? This is aggravating. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ilmor Posted October 18, 2010 Report Share Posted October 18, 2010 Mine is smooth as silk, but I still have the bone-stock wheels. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EL SHELBY Posted October 18, 2010 Report Share Posted October 18, 2010 When I switch back to the OE wheels/tire I have no shake. I've wondered if there is just more steering feel thru a lighter wheel/better tire. I'm grasping for possible solutions at this point. I don't do much highway driving so I don't notice the shake on a day to day basis. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
07-2937 Posted October 18, 2010 Report Share Posted October 18, 2010 make sure the clips are off the studs when u mount the tires (some wheels make provisions for the washers but most don't) then check weights and als roll the wheel and see if the tpms sensor is loose you can feel and hear it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FordRocks1 Posted October 18, 2010 Report Share Posted October 18, 2010 Very interesting. At least I'm not the only one with this issue. I was thinking maybe getting a steering stabilizer?? I've had my wheels balanced over and over. My wheel weights are perfect, my balancing is perfect, wheels are brand new, and the car is brand spankin' new. I have no clue what to do. I even bought hub centric rings (The wheels did not come with them, meanwhile they are HUB CENTRIC wheels, go figure ) and although the hub rings made the shaking less noticeable, it is still there. My rotors are also in good shape. I'm puzzled. Fordrocks1- you think I should do camber bolts as well? This is aggravating. I don't road race my SGT, drag race yes hence the reason for the camber bolts. Having my 20's wear prematurely gets costly. If you do track yours and really need the negative camber than I'd suggest caster camber plates. Now, I see you are running BFG KDW's are those with the firelike design? I did my research before buying new tires and from the reviews for BFG were not that great, many folks experienced vibration and noise due to the design of the newer KDW's. I went with Vredestein tires and I love them so far, excellent grip in the rain and they do not make noise or have any vibration. Are your tires true? Meaning are they round and not defective? Sometimes some tires are not within specs, are your 20's road forced balanced? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sgt1020 Posted October 18, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 18, 2010 I don't road race my SGT, drag race yes hence the reason for the camber bolts. Having my 20's wear prematurely gets costly. If you do track yours and really need the negative camber than I'd suggest caster camber plates. Now, I see you are running BFG KDW's are those with the firelike design? I did my research before buying new tires and from the reviews for BFG were not that great, many folks experienced vibration and noise due to the design of the newer KDW's. I went with Vredestein tires and I love them so far, excellent grip in the rain and they do not make noise or have any vibration. Are your tires true? Meaning are they round and not defective? Sometimes some tires are not within specs, are your 20's road forced balanced? My tires couldn't be more balanced than they already are. I do not have the "flame design" tire. I have the KDW ultra performance summer tire that is the old design that BF-Goodrich discontinued. I have no idea why they discontinued this design. I love them! They ride great, have excellent traction in dry conditions and rainy conditions. I hate the look of the new design which look like flames. It's ugly and yes, I have heard they overall suck. I wish they wouldn't discontinue my tire. When the time comes to get new tires I am looking into Goodyears or Pirellis. This is the tire on my car now. Shelby even put this tire on the Shelby California Edition GT/SC featured in several magazines. This is BF-Goodrich's new design of my tire: (This tire is ugly) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShelbyGT/SC Posted October 18, 2010 Report Share Posted October 18, 2010 I agree, this has been annoying me as well since last fall. For me, it started when I hit a pothole here in the Boston area - so in as much as everything says wheels/tires, I kept thinking I ruined a bushing or something but everything is tight. Tasca has checked several times and balanced the wheels/tires multiple times all to no avail. They are equally as puzzled. I heard about a place near my home that can balance the wheels while on the car. If I put the 18's on and the problem goes away, then it's definitely the wheels/tires and I will take it to this place and spend the money. It is not only aggravating but embarrassing. I literally have about a 1/2 inch of play/shake to the steering wheel. Needless to say it is nerve-racking on the track - so that's why I got the new wheels/tires. But still, driving down the highway with a vibrating wheel is not fun, especially if I have a friend in the car. I'm wondering if this is an American Racing wheel issue. I even took the rear wheels (which, since it is a front end issue I felt the rears were fine) and put them on the front then I took my 20" Nitto drag tires which are also on 20" Razors and put them on the back. I took the car for a ride and it still shook all over the place. So unless it's the Razors, I am totally flummoxed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sgt1020 Posted October 18, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 18, 2010 I think you have a good point. It could be that the razors are the only wheel that shakes badly no matter what you do to stop the shaking. Do you think a steering stabilizer would help reduce shaking/vibrations? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn Greenwell Posted October 19, 2010 Report Share Posted October 19, 2010 Some time ago there was a post on wheel issues on change out and it had to do with some type of spacing clips on the Mustangs, search the forum for that, or maybe another member will chime in. If you have done all the above maybe rotate front wheels to back as another member stated or back to stock wheels and see what happens. GG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
motorjock205 Posted October 19, 2010 Report Share Posted October 19, 2010 This is all very interesting....I have changed my stock wheels and tires for a set of used GT500 wheels and Goodyear Eagle F1 Supercar Tires and I have NEVER experienced any shake of any kind in the front end. I just recently put a new set of tires on and found out that I had a broken band on one of the front wheels, but I was not feeling anything in the steering wheel...I've had Ingall's camber bolts installed and the front end aligned and I can turn loose of my wheel while driving down the highway at 80 and it stays straight as an arrow...no shimmy of any kind....If you guys are experiencing something like this, there is a definate problem somewhere...A Steering Stabilizer is NOT going to do anything for you...if it's shaking that bad, you need to find out why! Warped Rotor, Warped Wheel, Wheel Weight missing, TPMS Sensor flying around inside the tire, but something is wrong! Don't keep driving the car, make FORD or SHELBY find out what it is and fix it!!! If Shelby Razor Wheels are the culprit, I'm glad I steered away from those...Good Luck on finding out what it is, and if you do, please let everyone know... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FordRocks1 Posted October 19, 2010 Report Share Posted October 19, 2010 My tires couldn't be more balanced than they already are. I do not have the "flame design" tire. I have the KDW ultra performance summer tire that is the old design that BF-Goodrich discontinued. I have no idea why they discontinued this design. I love them! They ride great, have excellent traction in dry conditions and rainy conditions. I hate the look of the new design which look like flames. It's ugly and yes, I have heard they overall suck. I wish they wouldn't discontinue my tire. When the time comes to get new tires I am looking into Goodyears or Pirellis. This is the tire on my car now. Shelby even put this tire on the Shelby California Edition GT/SC featured in several magazines. This is BF-Goodrich's new design of my tire: (This tire is ugly) I see, well, I suggest you install the camber bolts, they are cheap from Summit Racing and get the car aligned within or close to factory specs- what my tech told me was that think about it, if you have the camber set at negative and most of the weight of the front is sitting on mostly the edge (inner) you will feel vibration especially with low profile tires (in which most cases are hard compound). So to remedy this is to set the alignment within specs to evenly distribute the weight on the tires, it kind of made sense so I just did as he said and the vibration has gone away plus Carl (motorjock and many) have installed the bolts which further convinced me to just install them, caster camber plates are also good but brings noise in most cases I hear from the track guys. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
07-2937 Posted October 19, 2010 Report Share Posted October 19, 2010 My razors do NOT shake but i have heard of alot of razors that do I dont know what I have done different. once again make sure the retainer washer has been removed off the wheel stud prior to mounting wheel on the car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sgt1020 Posted October 19, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 19, 2010 All studs had been removed from my rotors before installation of the new wheels. I have had the car looked at by Ford several times. Nothing is wrong with the car. The steering is fine, my wheels are balanced and aligned, my tires are fine, and my wheel weights are on tight and the wheel weights are perfect. I'm so lost as to what the problem is. My wheel never shook with the original wheels. But the wheels are brand new, and so are the tires. Something fishy is going on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FordRocks1 Posted October 19, 2010 Report Share Posted October 19, 2010 What are your alignment #'s? Remember anytime a car is lowered it needs to be re-aligned. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sgt1020 Posted October 19, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 19, 2010 What are your alignment #'s? Remember anytime a car is lowered it needs to be re-aligned. My car never got alignment work done. It came lowered from shelby hence it was aligned there. All I did was put wheels and tires on. How would that throw the alignment off? I don't want to spend the money putting it up on the machine if the alignment is fine. As long as the car isn't pulling to one side of the other when you let go of the wheel, the wheels are aligned. Inform me if I am wrong. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FordRocks1 Posted October 19, 2010 Report Share Posted October 19, 2010 My car never got alignment work done. It came lowered from shelby hence it was aligned there. All I did was put wheels and tires on. How would that throw the alignment off? I don't want to spend the money putting it up on the machine if the alignment is fine. As long as the car isn't pulling to one side of the other when you let go of the wheel, the wheels are aligned. Inform me if I am wrong. I don't think our SGT's were aligned after they were lowered, I had negative camber on the front wheels, my passenger side was worse than the driver's side. The camber bolts allows for more degree change, alignment for me was done at my local Ford dealer for $75, it's worth it. They may not be able to align it to factory specs with the current bolt set up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EL SHELBY Posted October 19, 2010 Report Share Posted October 19, 2010 The clips will cause a vibration at speeds as low as 35mph as the wheel is physically out of alignment by a significant amount if the wheels do not have a provision for them. I'm convinced my issue is not balance related. My vibration comes and goes and is very subtle. Could be an alignment issue. I'm going to try bumpsteer bolts then go to the plates. I don't want to loose my camber on the track so I need something that give me adjustability. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sgt1020 Posted October 19, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 19, 2010 So I shouldn't get these? Camber Plates I'm more of a track guy. I'm not a drag racer. Also what are bumpsteer bolts? You think those are better for my style of driving? I will head over to ford tomorrow for an alignment. Do I need the bolts before alignment? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FordRocks1 Posted October 19, 2010 Report Share Posted October 19, 2010 So I shouldn't get these? Camber Plates I'm more of a track guy. I'm not a drag racer. Also what are bumpsteer bolts? You think those are better for my style of driving? I will head over to ford tomorrow for an alignment. Do I need the bolts before alignment? I'm not saying not to get them but some people just don't like the clunking noise for daily driving. Yes, you need the camber bolts before alignment, some tire performance shops carry camber bolts, mostly the high car/performance shops (german cars), check around, maybe the dealer themselves may be able to get you some. I'm not too familiar with the bumpsteer bolts. Now since you like to track car it may be in your best interest to go with the caster camber plates, the shelby ones(maximum motorsports) or Steeda ones are good to go, I was advised the camber bolts are not really meant for the track because of the heavy turn loads. The bolts were like $30 for two which is all that is needed and alignment for $7, smoother ride, priceless Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sgt1020 Posted October 19, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 19, 2010 Im a bit confused. Are you saying I should get the caster camber plates? camber bolts? What would happen if I just get the car aligned without either one? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FordRocks1 Posted October 19, 2010 Report Share Posted October 19, 2010 Im a bit confused. Are you saying I should get the caster camber plates? camber bolts? What would happen if I just get the car aligned without either one? Since you do tracking events you should go with CC plates to make adjustments as needed. I'm guessing you could go for an alignment without either one but I don't think the specs will come to the original factory setting. How often do you or will you be going to track events? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sgt1020 Posted October 19, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 19, 2010 I haven't tracked the car yet, and probably won't for a while. Will I be fine with just an alignment? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FordRocks1 Posted October 19, 2010 Report Share Posted October 19, 2010 I haven't tracked the car yet, and probably won't for a while. Will I be fine with just an alignment? Well, if you're not going to track it, try the camber bolts and alignment and see how that works. Is your car a DD? http://www.importimageracing.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=Eibach-Front-Camber-Bolts-05-10-Mustang&Category_Code=Align-Components-mustang&Store_Code=ii http://dagostinoracing.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=16055¤cy=USD http://tires.tirerack.com/search?view=list&w=camber+bolts http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/item/EIB-581260K/Ford-Mustang-Eibach-Camber-Adjustment-Bolts http://www.summitracing.com/parts/IEC-81260 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SDA-555-8096 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EL SHELBY Posted October 19, 2010 Report Share Posted October 19, 2010 Bumpsteer, when your front suspension cycles (up/down) the steering can be effected which can be felt in the steering wheel. This is more pronounced in lowered suspension such as the SGT. The bumpsteer rod ends can mitigate this. Link to Shelby Store. "These replace your factory tie-rod with our high performance bolt in adjusters, which allow you to easily fine tune out bump steer that causes unwanted handling characteristics. These are constructed from 7075 T-6 billet aluminum adjusters with heavy duty spherical rod ends and heat treated high allow steel tapered shafts." Not only are these recommended for stock applications, they are also recommended for lowered vehicles or modified suspensions. I'm going to try the bumpsteer first as my vibration seems to come and go depending on the quality of the road surface and the suspension load. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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