ShelbyGT/SC Posted September 23, 2010 Report Share Posted September 23, 2010 I've searched high and low to no avail so I thought I'd start a new thread. I have been trying to determine a good light-weight wheel that will fit over the BAER extreme brakes for the track. I finally found a list on another forum so I thought I'd post it here so others have the info. Feel free to add to this list. Also, can someone with expertise comment on worthiness of spending an extra few hundred dollars to save 28 lbs? I am comparing the difference between the 18" wheels for the 2010 GT500 at 29 lbs and $137 each versus the Steeda Ultralights at $285 and 22 lbs. I don't know if that 7 lbs per wheel savings is worth the extra $600. Here is the link: http://www.stangnet....t-thread-3.html Here is the info: 95 COBRA R Replica 95 Cobra R (Black) 17x9 - 28lbs AFS 95 Cobra R (Chrome) 17x9 - 24lbs AFS 95 Cobra R (Chrome) 17x10.5 - 26lbs ----------------------------------------------------------- Y2K COBRA R Replica Y2K Cobra R Replica (Silver) 18x9 - 28lbs Y2K Cobra R (Chrome) 18x9.5 - 29lbs Y2K Cobra R (Powerder Coated) 18x9.5 - 27lbs ----------------------------------------------------------- 03 COBRA Replica AFS 03 Cobras (Chrome) 17x9 - 29lbs AFS 03 Cobras (Chrome) 17x10 - 27lbs ----------------------------------------------------------- BULLITTS Replica Bullitt (Chrome) 18x9 - 29lbs Bullitt (Chrome) 18x10 - 30lbs Bullitt (Chrome) 20x8.5 - 30lbs Bullitt (Chrome) (2005+) 18x10 - 29lbs Bullitt (Anthracite) 20x8.5 - 30lbs Bullitt (Anthracite) (2005+) 17x9 - 25lbs Bullitt (Anthracite) 18x9 - 28lbs Bullitt (Black) 18x9 - 28lbs Bullitt (Black) 18x10 - 29lbs Bullitt satin 17x8 - 28lbs ----------------------------------------------------------- FR500 Replica FR500 (Chrome) 17x9 - 27lbs FR500 (Chrome) 18x9 - 31lbs FR500 (Chrome) 18x10 - 32lbs FR500 (Black) 18x9 - 31lbs FR500 (Black) 18x10 - 32lbs FR500 (Anthracite) 18x9 - 31lbs FR500 (Anthracite) 18x10 - 32lbs FR500 (Satin) 18x9 - 26lbs ----------------------------------------------------------- SALEEN Replica Saleen (White) 18x9 - 31lbs Saleen (Chrome) 18x9 - 32lbs Saleen (Black) 18x9 - 31lbs Saleen (Black) 18x10 - 34lbs Saleen (Hypercoated) 18x9 - 31lbs Saleen (Hypercoated) 18x10 - 34lbs Saleen (Hypercoated) (2005+) 18x9 - 29lbs ----------------------------------------------------------- STEEDA Steeda Ultralights (Satin) 17x9 - 21.5lbs Steeda Ultralights (Chrome) 17x9 - 24lbs Steeda Ultralights (Satin) 18x9 - 22lbs Steeda Ultralights (Chrome) 18x9 - 24.5lbs ----------------------------------------------------------- FORD OEM, FORD MOTORSPORTS, OR SVT (pretty much the same) SVT - Bullitt (Silver) 17x8 = 23lbs SVT - Bullitt (Chrome) 17x8 = 24lbs SVT - Bullitt (Black) 17x8 = 22lbs SVT - Bullitt (Anthracite) 17x8 = 22lbs SVT - 97 Cobra (Chrome) 17x8 = 22.5lbs SVT - 98 Cobra (Silver) 17x8 = 21.5lbs SVT - 99 Cobra (Silver) 17x8 = 22.5lbs SVT - 99 Cobra (Polished) 17x8 = 22.5lbs SVT - 04 Cobra 10th Anniversary (Light Grey) 17x9 = 23.8lbs SVT - 03 Cobra (Satin) 17x9 - 25.5lbs FORD OEM - 99 GT (Satin) 17x8 - 22lbs FORD OEM - 03 Mach 1 - 25lbs ----------------------------------------------------------- Shelby Wheels Torq-Thrust M (Chrome) 17x8 = 21.5lbs Torq-Thrust M (Chrome) 17x9 = 23.5lbs Torq-Thrust M (Black) 17x8 = 21lbs Torq-Thrust M (Black) 17x9 = 22.6lbs Torq-Thrust M (Anthracite) 17x8 = 21lbs Torq-Thrust M (Anthracite) 17x9 = 22.6lbs Razor 5 (Light Grey w/ Mach. Lip) 18x9 = 25.8lbs Razor 20x10 = 30.4 lbs Razor 20x9 with 255 Nitto's mounted - 57.6 lbs ----------------------------------------------------------- BBS Wheels BBS RGR (Silver w/ Mach. Lip) 18x8.5 = 20lbs BBS RGR (Silver w/ Mach. Lip) 18x9.5 = 20.3lbs BBS RK (Plasma) 18x8.5 - 19lbs BBS RK (Plasma) 18X10 - 20lbs BBS RK (Silver) 18x8.5 - 19lbs BBS RK (Silver) 18X10 - 20lbs BBS RS-GT (Diamond Black Mach. Lip) 18x8.5 = 20.5lbs BBS RX (Bright Silver) 18x8 = 23.6lbs ----------------------------------------------------------- LIGHTWEIGHT RACE WHEELS Weld Draglites 15x3.5 - 7lbs Weld Draglites 15x10 - 14lbs Weld Pro-Stars 15x3.5 - 8lbs Weld Pro-Stars 15x8 - 12lbs Bogart Drag-On Fly Star 15x3.5 - 9lbs ----------------------------------------------------------- OTHER Kazera kza/asa 18X8.5 - 23lbs Kazera kza/asa 18X9.5 - 25lbs Konig Villain 17x9 - 21lbs Konig Maxxim 18x8.5 - 24.5lbs Mille Miglia MM11-2 18x9 - 25lbs Motegi Track Touge (Anthracite) 17x9 = 24lbs Motegi Track Touge (Anthracite) 18x9 = 25.5lbs Motegi Track Touge (Anthracite) 18x10 = 27.8lbs Motegi Track Touge (Black) 17x9 = 24lbs Motegi Track Touge (Black) 18x9 = 25.5lbs Motegi MR116 18x9 - 25.2 lbs (total with Hoosier 275 tires = 48.0 lbs) Motegi Track Touge (Black) 18x10 = 28lbs Motegi Track Touge (Chrome) 18x10 = 30lbs SSR GT-3 (Bright Satin) 18x9 = 24.7lbs SSR GT-3 (Bright Satin) 18x9.5 = 25.6lbs GT-3 (Bright Satin) 18x10.5 = 26.5lbs SSR Integral 18x8 - 19.5lbs SSR Integral 18x9 - 20lbs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheKurgan Posted September 23, 2010 Report Share Posted September 23, 2010 I'm not sure I trust those figures. I called Steeda about which rims to buy for the track when I was searching for track only wheels. I asked the weight of the black ultra lites compared to the black Pentars and they told me they were basically identical. The Pentars weigh 26-28 pounds(I can't remember) and that chart lists the chrome Steeda Ultralites at 24lbs(chrome weighs even more than black). Either the Steeda guy was full of it or that weight is wrong. PS. Talking about 18x9.5 wheels. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EL SHELBY Posted September 23, 2010 Report Share Posted September 23, 2010 Nice info. Unless you are racing competively where every once counts I would say 'no' the extra $600 is not worth it unless you truely desire the look of the Steeda wheel. To add to your list, Stack Racing GT4 18x9, weight ~22.4lbs (on a digital bathroom scale so I would give or take a pound or two on accruarcy). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShelbyGT/SC Posted September 25, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 25, 2010 FYI, if you're a race, tire, wheel or suspension expert, don't bother reading this as you already know all this. I am just giving an update for any newbie like myself who is looking into these things so you don't waste time. Well everyone, I can't tell you how much time I've spent (of course after work, and after the kids go to bed, until 1-3 am) the last 2 weeks reading up on wheels, tires and coil-overs. I have decided that although I would love the Griggs (and wish it was more affordable) I will end up going with what Sam Strano has once I can get up the cash. I've learned from Sam that he has pulled the same or more G's with his setup as the Griggs and since he ran the SGT and knows all the details of the car, I'm sold. Take a look at some of Sam's YouTube videos. He has a G-force meter on his videos, it's cool. But for now, I honed in on some wheels and tires that will not only help me on the auto-x and track with performance, but will also save me lots of miles on the street with my regular tires. Plus, with all the reading I've done recently, as I just mentioned to Chris in a PM, it all boils down to each individual trying out different tires on the type of racing they do and then deciding on what works best. I read many threads where one person says one tire sucks then another person swears by it. Obviously it depends on many factors from the type of tire, but also the type and weight of the car, to the type of racing (track, versus autocross, versus drag and so forth), the heat/temp, and many more factors. Anyway, here is what I do know... when I was doing some auto-x this past weekend, I was just amazed how last-minute a guy (Mike who's now on my Facebook if anyone is interested) in a 350Z waited to stop to take his turns. He let me join him in his car after I had him join me in mine. When in my car, I would come to a particular turn, naturally I would start braking at a certain spot. When I was in his car, I was thinking to myself, hmmmm, we just missed the cutoff for this turn, this guy is going to run over the cones. LOL. Then after another second or so, he finally whaled on the brakes and made the turn without a problem. I was just beside myself and impressed as hell. He had Hoosier A6 tires on his stock 350Z. He was pumping out about 300+ HP. Now I know you can't compare both cars as they are totally different cars, but I just couldn't believe the grip those tires had. I was very impressed with the car too as the suspension, braking and so forth, as it was a very race-worthy car. But to me, it was all about the tires - and more importantly the confidence with those tires knowing what you can do with them and that they'll deliver what you give them. And, the track was an abandoned air field so there were lots of cracks in the road where grass grew so there were lots of bumps of grass, but those tires still held incredibly. So for autocross I am totally hooked on the Hoosier A6 tires. For what it's worth, I was on my street tires (Nitto NT555) and was only 4 seconds behind Mike on the Auto-X so I was pretty happy with my performance. In fact, my first attempt was 1 minute 58 seconds and his first was 1 minute 43 seconds. So I was very impressed with his driving. Then in the end his final was 1 minute 35 seconds and mine was 1 minute 39 seconds. The point here is that I improved nicely with street tires, and this was my only racing this year since my engine was blown from last November. Once on Hoosier tires, I will definitely be able to improve my time. On another note, I highly recommend when you're at any racing event to ask someone if you can join them as you'll learn a real lot. Then all the reading I have done says the Hoosier R6 is for the track, which is what I am also doing next week. From what I've learned, the Hoosier A6 is stickier (I think it's an R40 compound) and heats up faster for Auto-X while the Hoosier R6 is almost as sticky (R100) but takes a little longer to heat up and gives longer life. Plus it's all about the heat cycles on these tires so most people get somewhere around 15 +/- heat cycles on the tires before they are trashed. A heat cycle is simply one track event which could last 2 minutes or 10, depending on the event. So here is the deal. There are several people in this country that are able to get their hands on used race tires. I think they have connections or sit around the pits after races and somehow get used tires that still have lots of life on them. I've found Evo guys and Corvette guys who are selling but I'm sure in most cased if you look hard enough you will even find someone much more local to yourself by searching some of the local racing organization forums. There is SCCA of course, plus SCDA, COMSCC and a boat load of others. Get some used tires from these guys so you can try different ones for a much cheaper price than new, until you find the right tire for you. I reached out to the Corvette guy and am getting some of the Hoosiers. I think I'll get the R6 tires. SInce they are better for the track than autocross, that is okay because I want to do more track events. Plus the R6 gives longer life. Besides, running R6 on autocross will drastically improve my time over any street tire so it will be a drastic improvement either way. Now let's talk about wheels. Now this is very limited as well to just my own little experience, but as per my initial post, I am looking for a light-weight, low-cost wheel that will fit over my BAER Extreme brakes. I had honed in on the GT4 wheels but learned that they won't fit over the rear BAER Extreme brakes. They fit over the front BAER Extreme brakes, but not the rear. That's too bad because I really like the look of those. I was still considering the 2010 SVT 18" wheels that are on the GT500 as I know they would work, but they weigh 29# and I just thought that was crazy. It's too bad because I think those are nice looking tires too and a nice price. In the end, since these are just for racing, I sort of don't care of the look nearly as much as function. So from lots more reading and speaking with many people on the phone, I came across a local guy after looking for American Racing dealers in the area. I wanted to learn more about the 18" Razors - whether they would fit over the brakes and what they weighed. He didn't have that info, but offered me to come to his place and he'd let me try some display models. He had one wheel in particular that he was sure would fit. Well, my daughter and I went over there to check them out. Well, I was psyched to learn that they did in fact fit. There was plenty of room over the BAER Extreme front brakes. And when I put it over the rear there was about 1.5" over the current brake upgrade so I am hopeful that this will be more than enough room for when I eventually get the rear BAER Extreme brakes (someday). I actually think the look of the wheel will be okay once they are on since I have all the stickers and colors on my car. I likely would have not ever picked these wheels on my own, but since I wanted function at a great price, I am pretty happy with these. If anyone is interested, I got these for $140 each. They are all 18" x 9" so I will be limited to probably as high as a 305 rear wheel (from what he said) but I'm thinking the max would be a 295 tire max. I'll start with some 275's and see how those work out. Anyway, here is a pic of what they look like. They are Motegi MR116 wheels. A quick search shows I got a really good price (no shipping...). Oh and one more thing, you'll see from the pic that I brought my scale. These wheels weigh 25.2 lbs. On one of the sites, I think it was EBAY, it said an 18" x 8" was only 18+ lbs so they were way off. Later today I am going to Tasca to pick up one of my 20" Razors I left there (along with my junk engine) and I will weigh that wheel to see how much it is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrKSGT Posted September 25, 2010 Report Share Posted September 25, 2010 Adam, Thank you for posting the list and your Post #4. Have been doing the same investigation for wheels for my SGT as I bought a set of the KR tires. Nice to get be going up to a 285 Rear. Certainly difficult to get much accurate information or success for an 18 x 10 rear for any rear brake upgrades. May add my 2 cents when I sort out my data. Yours is very well organized. So does this mean the GT/TR is no longer for coming to Detroit for another Shelby event like 2008? Was good to meet you then. Still have the picture with your guitar. Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShelbyGT/SC Posted September 25, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 25, 2010 Thanks Tom, I'll definitely be at another Detroit event, just not this year. It was great meeting you as well. I've spent all the money I didn't have already, LOL so I'll have to wait till maybe next year. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shelbypt Posted September 25, 2010 Report Share Posted September 25, 2010 This is great information to have at hand. I hope we can get the weight ot other wheels up too. i.e. 18 and 20" Alcoas, True forged wheels. More of the Shelby wheels!! Also, i think saving 7 lbs per wheel is well worth the $600 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EL SHELBY Posted September 25, 2010 Report Share Posted September 25, 2010 I'm almost certain (I have not personally tested them) the 18x9 GT4 wheel will fit the rear & front Bear Extremes. The 18x10 absolutely will not fit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShelbyGT/SC Posted October 6, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 6, 2010 Well, here is an update. I finally was able to get down to Tasca and pick up my old parts (engine, some tires, x-pipe and so forth). Wow, the engine is much worse than originally thought. The thing is beat inside. I have it in the garage now wrapped up. I know it's useless now, but who knows, it may come in some sort of use some day. Ok sorry for digressing. Anyway, I finally weighed the 20x10 Razors. They are 30.4 lbs. With the 20x9 Razors and 255 Nitto's on them, with air, they weighed 57.6 lbs. The 18" Motegi's with the 275 Hoosiers on them weighed 48 lbs even. So, in the end, I saved 9.6 lbs per tire/wheel (and more for the rears since the 20x10 wheel weighs more than the 20x9 obviously). I'm pretty happy with that and feel it was well worth it mostly because I will actually have traction on the track now rather than slipping and squealing. Woohoo! Will test it out at the following: 1) Oct 9 at New Hampshire Motor Speedway track 2) Oct 14 at Lime Rock track 3) Oct 16 autocross (maybe) 4) Nov 13 autocross Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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