fatboy Posted May 4, 2010 Report Share Posted May 4, 2010 decisions, decisions was thinkin about having a supercharger installed. then i saw the thread about the Ford Racing intake manifold. manifold is available sometime in mid May or later. hmm... ford racing intake mainfold and hot rod cams(for the cool idle sound) and...does the Shelby GT already have the ford racing throttle body? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
motorjock205 Posted May 4, 2010 Report Share Posted May 4, 2010 Nope, the FR throttle body is a different TB than what is on the SGT....plus it's polished up nice and purdy!!! LOL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmn444 Posted May 4, 2010 Report Share Posted May 4, 2010 FRPP kit Someone posted this not too long ago... I still think FI is the way to go though... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EL SHELBY Posted May 4, 2010 Report Share Posted May 4, 2010 But go with the FRPP kit then add a turbo or Paxton and you have a nice sloppy wet dream. Grrrrrr baby, grrrrrr! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmn444 Posted May 4, 2010 Report Share Posted May 4, 2010 I dunno, the turbo or paxton (I'm not certain about the paxtons limits) alone is capable of pushing the bottom end to the limit, I think the aluminator short block and a turbo would be the hot setup for the same cash. Too many choices... not enough cash. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmn444 Posted May 4, 2010 Report Share Posted May 4, 2010 by same cash i was comparing the top end kit to the short block.... assuming the adding a paxton/turbo to it was the end plan... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EL SHELBY Posted May 4, 2010 Report Share Posted May 4, 2010 With the FRPP kit you can turn down the boost and meet the same numbers by being more efficent with less stress. My understanding is it's not so much the HP that is the limiting factor but the amount of load and stress you place on the motor to make that HP. It all about choosing the right mix of parts to complement each other and building a foundation. $3500 for the FRPP this year, $3500 for the alluminator next year, $3500 for a Paxton the year after that. Or in any order you want. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmn444 Posted May 4, 2010 Report Share Posted May 4, 2010 I like the theory, and I have to add that I see a transmission breaking in year 4! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EL SHELBY Posted May 4, 2010 Report Share Posted May 4, 2010 There is always a catch! Damit! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmn444 Posted May 4, 2010 Report Share Posted May 4, 2010 My cars will never be fast compared to the rate at which they cause my wallet to empty! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EL SHELBY Posted May 4, 2010 Report Share Posted May 4, 2010 Yes, money pits and the goofballs who love them..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fatboy Posted May 4, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 4, 2010 GAWD! now i'm confused! i may pass up on supercharger and just get FR intake mani and FR hot rod cams...like to get some jba headers too. i think if i can get 30 or 40 more HP i'll be happy. goal is 350hp. btw, wtf is an alluminator short block? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EL SHELBY Posted May 4, 2010 Report Share Posted May 4, 2010 That should be easily done with the intake, cams, headers, and a tune. I thing Ken had 350 with cams, underdrive pullies, and a tune alone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmn444 Posted May 4, 2010 Report Share Posted May 4, 2010 aluminator there's an aluminator, forged bottom end, available in two diff compression ratios... and recently dropped down in price quite a bit to the $3200 ish range... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EL SHELBY Posted May 4, 2010 Report Share Posted May 4, 2010 I'm still a ways off before I can do any this. Stupid responsibilities. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT500-07 Posted May 5, 2010 Report Share Posted May 5, 2010 aluminator there's an aluminator, forged bottom end, available in two diff compression ratios... and recently dropped down in price quite a bit to the $3200 ish range... wait for the new 9.8:1 Aluminator, more CR less boost, less heat soak :happy feet: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ilmor Posted May 5, 2010 Report Share Posted May 5, 2010 Eventually I would like to do an NA build but its going to be a long slow process. I do like the sound (and HP) of the Brenspeed Detroit Rocker cams. A combination of those, the Ford Racing manifold, throttle body, pullies and shorties along w/ a proper tune would make for an awesome package I'm sure! I've been working from the ground up, starting w/ suspension. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmn444 Posted May 5, 2010 Report Share Posted May 5, 2010 wait for the new 9.8:1 Aluminator, more CR less boost, less heat soak :happy feet: I've been wondering which CR is "best"... what you are saying makes sense to me, it didn't make sense to lower compression just to end up running more boost to make the same power levels, but I just assumed I was wrong about how it all worked... ESPECIALLY with turbo or centris it seemed like you'd lose the bottom end torque by dropping the CR. What kind of RWHP are we limited to with 93 octane anyway? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
39Mustang Posted May 5, 2010 Report Share Posted May 5, 2010 decisions, decisions was thinkin about having a supercharger installed. then i saw the thread about the Ford Racing intake manifold. manifold is available sometime in mid May or later. hmm... ford racing intake mainfold and hot rod cams(for the cool idle sound) and...does the Shelby GT already have the ford racing throttle body? Go for the Cams and Intake as heard the cams make a huge difference. Can always add the blower later Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
68fastback Posted May 5, 2010 Report Share Posted May 5, 2010 I've been wondering which CR is "best"... what you are saying makes sense to me, it didn't make sense to lower compression just to end up running more boost to make the same power levels, but I just assumed I was wrong about how it all worked... ESPECIALLY with turbo or centris it seemed like you'd lose the bottom end torque by dropping the CR. What kind of RWHP are we limited to with 93 octane anyway? If you're looking for the most on pump gas, a lower CR with a bit more boost will actually permit tuning to a higer overall output than a higher CR with less boost (for same level of engien prep, and pump gas, etc). It's a bit counterintuitive and the core explanation is complex (wish I could find an outstanding article on this from a while back -- I've been looking for 20+ minutes) but if the the SC has enough efficient flow to support the larger combustion chamber of the lower CR, pushing that additional mix through a larger combustion chamber (lower static CR) has a higher overall HP potential for a given octane number. If octane is not the limiter, then the higher static CR and less boost will have more total HP potential. But if you're looking for the most on pump gas (93 limit), the lower CR and a bit more boost is the better choice, imo. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShadowLands Posted May 6, 2010 Report Share Posted May 6, 2010 If octane is not the limiter, then the higher static CR and less boost will have more total HP potential. But if you're looking for the most on pump gas (93 limit), the lower CR and a bit more boost is the better choice, imo. You have to be careful not to lower it too far. Once you drop the compression too far you cross a threshold where you begin to lose more horsepower than you can make up with boost/timing. We typically do not go lower than 9.3:1 compression on any build. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fatboy Posted May 6, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 6, 2010 if i do a cam job, do i need to upgrade the valves and springs or can i still use stock valves and springs? i just want to start out a little at a time without gettin in over my head. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShadowLands Posted May 7, 2010 Report Share Posted May 7, 2010 Depends on the cams. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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