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well guys my 4.6 has finally seen the last of its days yesterday when i shot a rod through the block. :cry: i tell you it was an experience going down the highway smoke filling up the car and having the car die and lose my brakes. thatll get ur heart pumping. lol. but with over 500 horses the 4.6 is merely a ticking time bomb so i cant say i didnt see this coming. i just wish it didnt happen in 30 degree weather. lol i was hoping if yall had any suggestions on a shop near dallas texas that are really good and can swap my block and if yall had any ideas on a forged built block. im kinda leaning towards the aluminator, but if yall have tried something different than pls let me know and how did you like it. thx

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Sadly the Aluminator is not the proper configuration for our cars. Its the previous generation motor.

 

who told you that? FR makes a 4.6 3v short block that will work on the SGT. the CR is lower then stock but you can push lbs of boost with it. try contacting SD Wheeler (Shadowlands), he is in TX and could help you with a good engine build.

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who told you that? FR makes a 4.6 3v short block that will work on the SGT. the CR is lower then stock but you can push lbs of boost with it. try contacting SD Wheeler (Shadowlands), he is in TX and could help you with a good engine build.

 

Oops...

Edited by SGT2666
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There are a few decent shops in the DFW area. I've delt with HPP Racing out of Lewisville and was happy but I've heard just the opposite from others. There is also place in Arlington but I cannot recall the name of the shop. I'll try to track it down. May want to give the guys at Quantum and Dallas Mustang to see what direction they point you.

 

A blessed (read 'holy') block is just an excuse to go bigger and meaner.

 

Gary aka 'GEM427' may be able to help as well.

Edited by EL SHELBY
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The Aluminator is a nice block... Unfortunately it requires mods for us with the newer SGT's like 2004 and earlier front timing cover etc.

still, if your going to run a blower on a stock motor, its just a matter of time..

Check out these guys, they specialize in Modular motors, very knowledgable and have alot more stuff that the website lists..

As soon as I get to Germany, I am going to redo my 4.6, beef it up to a 302.....

http://www.modmaxracing.com/product_p/99525346.htm

This motor is right up your alley, and as you can see, it will be built for reasonable cost and to almost any config you like...

GNB

Edited by gbstang
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who told you that? FR makes a 4.6 3v short block that will work on the SGT. the CR is lower then stock but you can push lbs of boost with it. try contacting SD Wheeler (Shadowlands), he is in TX and could help you with a good engine build.

 

+1, SD got me pointed in the right direction and set me up with my shop.

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The Aluminator is a nice block... Unfortunately it requires mods for us with the newer SGT's like 2004 and earlier front timing cover etc.

still, if your going to run a blower on a stock motor, its just a matter of time..

Check out these guys, they specialize in Modular motors, very knowledgable and have alot more stuff that the website lists..

As soon as I get to Germany, I am going to redo my 4.6, beef it up to a 302.....

http://www.modmaxracing.com/product_p/99525346.htm

This motor is right up your alley, and as you can see, it will be built for reasonable cost and to almost any config you like...

GNB

 

FRPP makes a 3V Aluminator SB. It is actually our block, that not the weak link. 8.4 CR, forged steel crank, h beam rods and alum pistons. $4500.00, several dealers ( Capaldi Racing and Tousley) discount. Add 17 pounds of boost and you get 500+ rwhp very reliably.

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ive been looking at the modmax racing engines and they look pretty legit and not a bad price at all. Im really thinking about the modmax 4.6 to 5.0 short block with 20cc pistons. seems like the best thing to go with. and i decided to just do the work myself it would save me a hell of alot of money.

 

Oooof!

I hate hearing stories like this, especially since that is the same set-up as I have!

 

Can you provide details how this happened?

 

Thanks

Dan

 

and the story of how it happened i was on the highway around 11:00 at night and suddenly this black 04 camaro SS comes up next to me and i mean this thing was loud cams and headers just screaming in my ear (i think im still alittle def) lol. anyways he pulls up next to me and just keeps revving at me speeding up and slowing down again and again and again, i mean this guy would not stop. so there was nobody on the road and it was like 30 degrees so my car was running tip top. sadly i gave in :( yes i totally regret the decision now. lol. so we slowed down to 40 mph and im in second gear, he honks 3 times and at the third honk were off. im leaving him and im thinking life is pretty good right now (except for the ringing in my ears) next thing i know (im in 4th gear pretty close to 6,000 rpms) i hear a loud cling cling cling and the smell of burning oil and smoke fills up the car. i look down and saw that the car is off and i have no oil pressure. so i just pull over to the emergency lane and thought to myself wait this isnt right the chevy is suppose to break down not me. lol so i won the race, but lost a motor.

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ive been looking at the modmax racing engines and they look pretty legit and not a bad price at all. Im really thinking about the modmax 4.6 to 5.0 short block with 20cc pistons. seems like the best thing to go with. and i decided to just do the work myself it would save me a hell of alot of money.

 

 

 

and the story of how it happened i was on the highway around 11:00 at night and suddenly this black 04 camaro SS comes up next to me and i mean this thing was loud cams and headers just screaming in my ear (i think im still alittle def) lol. anyways he pulls up next to me and just keeps revving at me speeding up and slowing down again and again and again, i mean this guy would not stop. so there was nobody on the road and it was like 30 degrees so my car was running tip top. sadly i gave in :( yes i totally regret the decision now. lol. so we slowed down to 40 mph and im in second gear, he honks 3 times and at the third honk were off. im leaving him and im thinking life is pretty good right now (except for the ringing in my ears) next thing i know (im in 4th gear pretty close to 6,000 rpms) i hear a loud cling cling cling and the smell of burning oil and smoke fills up the car. i look down and saw that the car is off and i have no oil pressure. so i just pull over to the emergency lane and thought to myself wait this isnt right the chevy is suppose to break down not me. lol so i won the race, but lost a motor.

 

Hi,

 

Sorry to hear about your misfortune.

 

Were you running the FRPP tune? Di you modify the tune for muffler deletes?

 

Thanks,

 

MM

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Gear Heads is the shop in Arlington. Heard good things about their work.

 

I went out to the wed night meet and watch a whipple "shelby" GT blow his motor last night! That was interesting. I was also keeping up with only 13psi, and boost cutting me at like 5500rpm. I can't wait to have this car tuned again!!!

 

So that was you? That blows....no pun intended.

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The Aluminator is a great option IMO. It IS built to swap right into the S197, so disregard the previous posts on that.

Also, for the price and the warranty that comes with it, this deal from FRPP is a difficult one to top. If my block wasn't reusable, I'd have already gotten one of these on order (and still might). SD is definitely the man to talk to in your area though. Good luck.

 

Ken

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FRPP makes a 3V Aluminator SB. It is actually our block, that not the weak link. 8.4 CR, forged steel crank, h beam rods and alum pistons. $4500.00, several dealers ( Capaldi Racing and Tousley) discount. Add 17 pounds of boost and you get 500+ rwhp very reliably.

 

So, with the lower compression ratio, you're saying with 17# boost, only make 500whp? That seems awfully low. I would think closer to 600.

Maybe Big Carl can chip in. He's making huge #'s on built motor with the Paxton. Not sure of his boost, though...

Edited by AstroDan
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So, with the lower compression ratio, you're saying with 17# boost, only make 500whp? That seems awfully low. I would think closer to 600.

Maybe Big Carl can chip in. He's making huge #'s on built motor with the Paxton. Not sure of his boost, though...

 

Hey Dan,

 

I said 500 + rwhp.

 

Big Carl put down 560 at AED.

 

I have had 2 reputable shops tell me that lower compression ratio and increase boost would range in the 525 -575 rwhp.

 

Remember the lower CR is for reliability.

 

I am sure if you put 17 lbs on the stock CR you would be in the 650 rwhp range, but how reliable even with a forged bottom end?

 

MM

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FRPP makes a 3V Aluminator SB. It is actually our block, that not the weak link. 8.4 CR, forged steel crank, h beam rods and alum pistons. $4500.00, several dealers ( Capaldi Racing and Tousley) discount. Add 17 pounds of boost and you get 500+ rwhp very reliably.

 

I understand that you are talking about reliability and I agree that you need to lower the CR if you are planning on running serious boost but in my opinion 8.4 CR is a little low, I've told that anything below 9 would make the car a pig on the low end and 17 lbs on the stock CR would be asking for it, I went with a 9.05 CR with CP/MODMAX 14cc dish

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Hey Dan,

 

I said 500 + rwhp.

 

Big Carl put down 560 at AED.

 

I have had 2 reputable shops tell me that lower compression ratio and increase boost would range in the 525 -575 rwhp.

 

Remember the lower CR is for reliability.

 

I am sure if you put 17 lbs on the stock CR you would be in the 650 rwhp range, but how reliable even with a forged bottom end?

 

MM

 

 

Right.

 

No way I would try 17# boost at 10+:1 on 91 octane.

Looking at the ModMax website, I would think you go with the 14cc dished pistons etc to get the 8.94:1 and then bump up the boost, set your tune and see where you land. Is that about correct?

 

This is the path that I plan on taking in the spring next year. In the meantime, I'll keep my foot out of it and keep the rpm's no higher than 4500ish... Hope for the best.

 

Dan

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Hey Dan,

 

I said 500 + rwhp.

 

Big Carl put down 560 at AED.

 

I have had 2 reputable shops tell me that lower compression ratio and increase boost would range in the 525 -575 rwhp.

 

Remember the lower CR is for reliability.

 

I am sure if you put 17 lbs on the stock CR you would be in the 650 rwhp range, but how reliable even with a forged bottom end?

 

MM

 

my 302 stroker was 8.5:1cr running 17lbs of boost with the Techco 3.0 it made 641rwhp. we had the same problem as Ken last month so it's getting rebuilt once again only this time it's 9.2:1cr with stage 2 blower cams with lock outs same blower and running Meth :peelout:

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The Aluminator is a great option IMO. It IS built to swap right into the S197, so disregard the previous posts on that.

Also, for the price and the warranty that comes with it, this deal from FRPP is a difficult one to top. If my block wasn't reusable, I'd have already gotten one of these on order (and still might). SD is definitely the man to talk to in your area though. Good luck.

 

Ken

 

Unfortunately. it is not a direct sswap.. it will fit of course, uses same motor mounting, but you will have to change the front cover etc.

From FFRP site:

 

4.6L (281 cubic inches)

Cobra rotating assembly with forged steel 8-bolt crank

Low compression forged pistons with 16.0 cc dish

H-beam connecting rods

New oil pump

Uses M-6010-A46SC block, the knock sensors are removed and the block is modified to accept the 2003-2004 Cobra front cover

Approximately 8.5:1 compression ratio when used with 50cc heads

Direct bolt in for 2003-2004 Mustang Cobras

Front cover bolt pattern same as 4.6L iron blocks

Built with all NEW PARTS

Requires 8-bolt flywheel

 

Interestingly enough though, I keep reading that our blocks (2005-2008) can handle up and to over 1000+ HP with appropriate internals ie. Forged..

But the Block is fine. I am surprised he cracked his block. I have also read alot of issues with higher boost pressures associated with failure on a stock block.

I have a stock block, but only push 5 lbs. of boost. If I go with a higher boost I will do it only after beefing up the bottom end. I must say I kind of chuckle to myself when folks say they can run a higher boost setup (whipple KB etc) and think it will not effect the MTBF. This is the reason I went with the Edlebrock.. Later after I bring the motor up to a 302 CuI forged assy, I will bump the boost up to about 10psi..

 

GNB

 

GNB

Edited by gbstang
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Unfortunately. it is not a direct sswap.. it will fit of course, uses same motor mounting, but you will have to change the front cover etc.

From FFRP site:

 

4.6L (281 cubic inches)

Cobra rotating assembly with forged steel 8-bolt crank

Low compression forged pistons with 16.0 cc dish

H-beam connecting rods

New oil pump

Uses M-6010-A46SC block, the knock sensors are removed and the block is modified to accept the 2003-2004 Cobra front cover

Approximately 8.5:1 compression ratio when used with 50cc heads

Direct bolt in for 2003-2004 Mustang Cobras

Front cover bolt pattern same as 4.6L iron blocks

Built with all NEW PARTS

Requires 8-bolt flywheel

 

Interestingly enough though, I keep reading that our blocks (2005-2008) can handle up and to over 1000+ HP with appropriate internals ie. Forged..

But the Block is fine. I am surprised he cracked his block. I have also read alot of issues with higher boost pressures associated with failure on a stock block.

I have a stock block, but only push 5 lbs. of boost. If I go with a higher boost I will do it only after beefing up the bottom end. I must say I kind of chuckle to myself when folks say they can run a higher boost setup (whipple KB etc) and think it will not effect the MTBF. This is the reason I went with the Edlebrock.. Later after I bring the motor up to a 302 CuI forged assy, I will bump the boost up to about 10psi..

 

GNB

 

GNB

 

Here is the SB Ken is referring to - M-6009-A463SC*

 

* Fits 2005-2009 Mustang GT

* Forged steel 8-bolt crankshaft

* Forged steel H-beam connecting rods

* Forged aluminum 16cc dish 3 valve pistons

* New oil pump

* Uses M-6010-A46NA block, knock sensors are not removed from the block

* Approximately 8.7:1 compression ratio when used with 50.3cc 3 valve heads

* Lower compression for supercharged applications

* Built with all NEW PARTS

* Will accept 3V cylinder heads

* Will not work with 2V or 4V cylinder heads

* 8-bolt flywheel required (not included)

 

Looks like a direct fit to me.

 

MM

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Here is the SB Ken is referring to - M-6009-A463SC*

 

* Fits 2005-2009 Mustang GT

* Forged steel 8-bolt crankshaft

* Forged steel H-beam connecting rods

* Forged aluminum 16cc dish 3 valve pistons

* New oil pump

* Uses M-6010-A46NA block, knock sensors are not removed from the block

* Approximately 8.7:1 compression ratio when used with 50.3cc 3 valve heads

* Lower compression for supercharged applications

* Built with all NEW PARTS

* Will accept 3V cylinder heads

* Will not work with 2V or 4V cylinder heads

* 8-bolt flywheel required (not included)

 

Looks like a direct fit to me.

 

MM

 

Got it, I stand corrected... Funny though, when I did a search on FRPP's site this one did not come up..

Thanks for the part #, I will add it to my "Favorites" I may just get the block by itself, then go with the stroker kit from Modmax..

Thanks again..

 

GNB

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