The Hood Scoop Thread

[Elgin Black]

I put the latest generation scoop on the SGT-C about a year and a half ago when I had the stripes painted. It really turned out nice. I also have a new one for my 2007 in case it goes bad. I'm thinking it was replaced before I bought the car in 2011. It had 2800 miles on it then and always been garaged. Seems as though a lot of them started sagging early on. Mine has been riveted on so that is why I suspect it was changed out.

[2007_Shelby_GT]

Hello Everyone!

 

I was going back through this crazy thread, and noted that some of the photos and instructions may have dropped off, so I thought I'd post a newer version of my install.

 

Some time back, I replaced my first generation scoop (the original scoop that came with the car) with the custom Chip Beck/Heath Lloste version. I researched and discussed the install with Chip way back then, and this is "How I Did It"!

 

This install is NOT for the faint of heart! You really can screw this up big time if you aren't careful! Go slow, measure ten times, and cut/drill once! Read through all of the instructions before proceeding - your'e gonna need some stuff and this may help determine if you want to do this or not! I did it myself, and I'm not a professional by any means, so it can be done!

 

Also, I DID NOT USE RIVETS!! I used RivNuts! (Sometimes call blind rivets or Rivet Nuts) I used these because they allow the scoop to be removed and you can torque the hold-down bolts with less chance of messing up the paint on the scoop!

 

I cannot stress the importance of care and accuracy on this install! Accuracy and care in measuring, marking, drilling, etc. will lead to a really nice finished appearance!

 

Step 1. You need a replacement scoop! If you're lucky, get one that's pre-drilled - this saves a lot of tedious measuring and drilling! Thankfully, the Chip Beck scoop came pre-drilled, but wasn't painted, so I had to paint and finish it before beginning the install.

 

Step 2. Remove your old scoop! My scoop, since it was original, utilized about 6 bolts to hold it to the hood. All of the "rivets", except for four, (two at the front and two at the back) were fake! Then there was an additional four larger bolts, again, 2 at the front and 2 at the back, that also held the scoop to the hood!

 

Step 3. Clean up the area where your old scoop was, and place your new, finished scoop on the hood. Carefully move it around until it looks proper - this may take a few minutes because you want it to cover any previous holes created by the original scoop install. You don't want any of the holes in the new scoop to be within a half-inch of any old holes in the hood - with any luck, you can adjust the position of the new scoop to cover all of the old holes and it will still look correct!

 

Step 4. Tape the new scoop into place to keep it from moving, then utilize a small Sharpie to mark the positions of ALL of the holes in the new scoop! Accuracy really counts! Do this carefully as these marks are where you are going to drill the new holes to install the new scoop!

 

Step 5. Remove the tape and remove the scoop, then REMOVE THE HOOD from the car! It's way easier to work on the install with the hood off the car! (Easier clean up too!)

 

Step 6. Choose your bolt size! Guess what? Your bolt size is determined by the holes in the scoop! (either pre-drilled or otherwise!) Here's a diagram:

 

http://www.teamshelby.com/forums/uploads/gallery/album_1123/gallery_13043_1123_404113.jpg

Step 7. Machine bolts? I used 8/32, stainless steel, button head, 1 inch long, like these from Fastenal:

http://www.teamshelby.com/forums/uploads/gallery/album_1123/gallery_13043_1123_2036.jpg

Step 8. Choose your RivNut size! Guess what? Your bolt size determines your RivNut size! So, if you have 8/32 machine bolts, your RivNut threads must match! I used aluminum RivNuts from Fastenal that were grooved on the outside, (the grooves help keep the RivNut from spinning around when you install the bolts later) The "grip range" on the RivNut has to be at least the thickness of the outer layer of the hood - go for a little longer and you'll be fine. The RivNuts looked like this:

http://www.teamshelby.com/forums/uploads/gallery/album_1123/gallery_13043_1123_5637.jpg

Step 9. Do you have a RivNut tool? Buy one from somewhere - Harbor Freight, Northern Tool, etc. They are SIMILAR to a PopRivet tool, except they use a threaded insert, (matched to your RivNut threads), to seat the RivNut. They look like this:

http://www.teamshelby.com/forums/uploads/gallery/album_1123/gallery_13043_1123_15485.jpg

Step 10. OK, we're about ready to drill the holes, but first, let's see how this is suppose to work, look at this:

http://www.teamshelby.com/forums/uploads/gallery/album_1123/gallery_13043_1123_309936.jpg

Step 11. This is where things get tedious! If you aren't comfortable drilling holes in your hood, go no further! YOU'VE BEEN WARNED!! Ok, you have your bolts, you have your RivNuts, you've marked your hood where all of the holes need to be drilled, and you have your hood on a padded set of saw-horses so you can lean over the hood and start drilling! HOLD IT RIGHT THERE! What size drill do you have? The size of the drill bit is determined by the size of the RivNut! My RivNuts specified what size hole should be drilled - in my case, it was a hair larger than the lower portion of the RivNut. Just large enough for the RivNut to drop in, but NOT fall through! (the upper lip of the RivNut remains exposed on top of the hood once it's installed!) Take a look at this picture of my hood after I drilled holes and installed the RivNuts. (Ignore the large hole - I cut out the hood so my scoop is "functional")

http://www.teamshelby.com/forums/uploads/1288661478/gallery_13043_1123_8028.jpg

If you look closely at that picture, you can see a few things quite readily! There's a LOT of holes! You can see the pattern of the scoop and you can also see a couple of the old holes from the original scoop - note that these will be covered by the new scoop! Also look closely at the new holes - the RivNuts are installed and you can see the upper flange of the RivNut is resting on top of the hood - that is the way it's supposed to look!

OK, back to the hood and those holes need to be drilled! A couple of more things before we begin: The hood is ALUMINUM and very soft, therefore it doesn't require brute force to drill - take it easy! You are drilling through BOTH layers with this drill size, be aware! Wrap a piece of masking tape around the drill bit up near the drill chuck - this will help keep you from scuffing up the surface if you can't stop the drill in time! OK, get it done - carefully drill all the previously marked holes all the way through both layers of the hood!

Step 12. You've drilled all of the holes from the top side of the hood, now it's time to flip the hood over and work on the inner layer of the hood. I HIGHLY recommend using a Dremel tool with a pointed grinding head attached. (this is the grinding wheel that looks like a bullet found in most Dremel sets.) You can do this with a drill bit, but the Dremel gives way better control! Oh, if you didn't already, remove the hood blanket! There's a special two-pronged fork tool for this, but I used a golfers "divot" tool that worked just fine!

DANGER - YOU DO NOT WANT TO DRILL THROUGH THE BOTH LAYERS OF THE HOOD WITH THE DREMEL OR A LARGER DRILL BIT - JUST THE INNER LAYER!! The reason for the larger hole in the inner layer is so the RivNut won't pinch the two layers of the hood together - you may permanently dimple your hood if that happens! Remove enough material in the inner layer so you can see the lower portion of the RivNut clearly - the hole should be about 1/4 to 3/8 inch.

Here's a close up picture of the holes and RivNuts on the bottom side of my hood:

http://www.teamshelby.com/forums/uploads/gallery/album_1123/gallery_13043_1123_67547.jpg

Step 13. Installation of the RivNuts! Flip the hood back over to the top side. If you've done everything properly, you should have a neat "scoop shaped" pattern of small holes in the outer layer of the hood, and that same pattern, with larger holes, on the inner layer. Congratulations, half of the hard work is done! Now you're nearly ready to install the RivNuts, however, if you've never installed any before, do yourself a favor and go find a sheet of aluminum that's the same thickness as the outer layer of the hood, and practice a little! I was lucky in that I had cut that giant hole out of my hood to make the scoop functional, so I had a handy piece of aluminum that was just the right thickness to play with! Take a sample piece of aluminum and drill a few holes, (the small size, just like on the outer layer of the hood) and practice setting the RivNuts before moving on to the hood. Here's a diagram of how most RivNut tools function - it's SIMILAR to a PopRivet, EXCEPT YOU DON'T SQUEEZE TO THE POINT OF FAILURE! You squeeze just enough to seat the RivNut into place!

http://www.teamshelby.com/forums/uploads/gallery/album_1123/gallery_13043_1123_625099.jpg

Did you catch the misspelling? "Overtighted"? Just checking to see if you were paying attention! Again, don't over-squeeze/over-tighten with the RivNut tool! Anyway, it should be relatively easy to set these RivNuts - they are like the hood, aluminum and soft.

Step 14. Install the new hood scoop! If everything went according to plan, all of your RivNuts set properly and you're now ready to install the scoop. Take your new scoop and lay it into place, lining up all the holes with the RivNuts you just installed. Grab a hand full of those button head bolts and start carefully threading them through the scoop, into the RivNuts. You should only thread them in a few turns - leave them loose so you can wiggle the scoop around and make sure ALL of the bolts go into place before you begin to tighten. If any of the RivNuts spin, or are loose, remove the scoop and reset the RivNut with the tool. Once all of the bolts are threaded partially into the RivNuts, carefully start at the back of the scoop and gently torque each one into place.

Step 15. Step back and admire your handiwork! Here's a couple of closeup pics of my installation:

http://www.teamshelby.com/forums/uploads/gallery/album_1123/gallery_13043_1123_348284.jpg

http://www.teamshelby.com/forums/uploads/gallery/album_1123/gallery_13043_1123_817072.jpg

Before and after, from underneath:

http://www.teamshelby.com/forums/uploads/gallery/album_1123/gallery_13043_1123_50754.jpg

Tips and hints:

A) What happens if you make a mistake? Well, either you ruined a perfectly good hood, or scoop, or both, but there are a couple of things to consider before driving off a cliff! It's best to start with as small of machine bolt as the scoop holes will allow - 6/32 or Metric equivalent if at all possible. With the smaller bolt, if you screw up and over drill a hole, or over stress a RivNut, you can essentially start over by drilling out the hole to the next size - 8/32, or even up to 10/32. Try to stay with the smaller sizes - if you get to 10/32, the finished product will look weird because the bolt heads are larger. In extreme "oh poop" cases, you can always install "fake" rivets and use 3m Red tape to fasten the scoop to the hood. (Fake rivets are made by cutting the heads off of the machine bolts and epoxy/super gluing them into place on the scoop)

B) Spacers - I think someone, (George?), suggested using spacers between the two layers of the hood and then utilizing a longer grip-range RivNut, thus avoiding the enlarging of the hole in the inner layer. I can't tell you if this would work or not, because I was already finished by the time I got it! Sounds viable though!

C) You cut a huge hole in your hood! Are you insane? Well, I've been told I'm crazy, but I actually think this modification adds to the flavor/purpose of the scoop! In the case of the SGT, aerodynamics probably don't allow much air to actually force feed through the scoop. As a matter of fact, most of the air hits the front of the car and is kicked up and over the scoop - I have proof because I've driven in pouring rain and not a single drop ever got into the engine compartment through the scoop! Maybe some air gets in there, but it ain't much! Where I do see benefit is heat release after shut down. I have a supercharger, and I've seen heat waves rolling out of the scoop after I've parked, so there's a plus! (I also made a red, "Remove Before Flight" plug for the open scoop when parked, which really gets a lot of attention - Top Gear posted a picture of it on their website a few years ago!)

If anyone else has tips/tricks they'd like to add, just reply to THIS POST, not the thread - it will keep things tidy!

Sam

Edited March 6, 2017 by 2007_Shelby_GT

[Anton Ruighaver]

Sam, you are one dedicated help-ster! Nice work, and greatly appreciated by all!!!

 

Anton

[Glenn Greenwell]

Hey Sam,

 

From back in the past, yep not for faint of heart. I had a body shop do mine. I simply don't have the patience to handle this without a nervous breakdown. Rivet Nuts is the way to go on a change out. I appreciated your assistance with my project and the loan of your tool. Just broke 9500 miles on my SGT/BJ

 

Regards.......... GG

Edited March 6, 2017 by TAPD117

[andrewnagle1964]

Great write up Sam

 

Chip Beck and Rivnuts !!!!

[2007_Shelby_GT]

Thanks for the kind words!

 

Sam

[SWEDEMAN]

Hey Sam

Ok, I found and read the above incredible instructions. Man, I and everyone else thanks you for doing this as replacing hood scoops is not for the "fant of heart" as you said. However these instructions are very precise and even if one makes the biggest mistake ever you can use the fake rivets and red 3m tape. Not that anyone would want to do this willingly but I see your method to your madness if some one really screwed it up, it can be installed still! Awesome instructions.

 

Shelby used fake screws on 3/4 of my scoop ( yes I was surprised to see the fakes, I or no one would have would ever known this unless they replaced the hood scoop. The 8 big lugs holding the scoop down was all that was used besides a couple of screws into the actual hood itself which had no value.The big lugs were basically useless as the scoop being non Fiberglass was going to warp either way it just took a little longer to remove all of them, my car had 8 of them!

Thanks Sam it is much appreciated.

Dave.

[2007_Shelby_GT]

Happy to oblige, Dave!

 

Sam

[JeffIsHereToo]

Nice write-up...but I still get nervous coming back into this thread.

[BIKEBOY]

Has anyone seen one of these SGT hood scoops reversed...(front to back)? I saw a regular '05-'09 Mustang GT with a ROUSH hood scoop mounted backwards, in New Hope PA. last summer. Not gonna lie, it was VERY curious indeed. My first impression was, "WTH is that"? But upon further inspection, I realized just what it was.

 

Just wonderin'....

 

[SWEDEMAN]

Edited:

Edited July 14, 2017 by SWEDEMAN

[SWEDEMAN]

Another photo of the finished piece of art that Shelby produced.

 

http://www.teamshelby.com/forums/index.php/gallery/image/14613-new-scoop-5-3-2015-excellent-work-shelby-american/

Edited July 14, 2017 by SWEDEMAN

[Mongoose]

My wife and I are life-long muscle and performance car enthusiasts who recently added an 08 SGT to our toy box. The hood scoop on the car seems to be okay even though it's never been replaced. Does anyone know if a replacement scoop is still available for purchase to possibly have in reserve if needed? Any info would be much appreciated!

THANKS !

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

1

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[BIKEBOY]

Mike, I have one. Don't wanna part with it, and they are ever increasingly harder and harder to find.

 

This is the place to ask tho, for sure.

 

Good luck and welcome to the Club!!!

[Mongoose]

BIKEBOY, thanks for your answer on the scoop and your welcoming me to the club! If you run across a scoop for sale aka (chip beck) or latest Shelby version I would appreciate a heads up! Also on a earlier post you mentioned seeing a 05 to 09 mustang gt with maybe Roush hood scoop backwords. Actually that might not be a bad setup for funneling in the air on a functional scoop because of the air turbulance in that area of the hood depending on where it is placed! I can attest to this because in earlier years I used to run a 1969 Z-28 with the factory cowl induction hood (ram air)! Also I remember another version of air induction on the early mustangs at the drags that would run the bubble hood with screens in the backside of the bubble towards the windshield. As you can probably tell by now I am a certified car nut!

Almost anything with a engine is cool! But I love the sound of my Harley Fat Boy and also that awesome sound coming from my 08SGT on the startup and then going threw the gears! I've owned many fast cars in the past, but I can actually say every time I drive the SHELBY it puts a smile on my face and I feel like a young hot rodder again! I've seen some posts on the forum where some owners feel that the car is under powered and thats their right and opinion! But I can say from actual experience of owning many fast cars for over 40 years,(manly vettes and mustangs) both big block and hi-po small blocks that these shelbys are set-up very good for both power and especially handling and they are a absolute blast to drive vigorously.

Sorry I was so long winded but I'm very passionate about cars!

Mike

 

[BlackSGT]

My wife and I are life-long muscle and performance car enthusiasts who recently added an 08 SGT to our toy box. The hood scoop on the car seems to be okay even though it's never been replaced. Does anyone know if a replacement scoop is still available for purchase to possibly have in reserve if needed? Any info would be much appreciated!

THANKS !

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

1

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Mike, there is a lot of excellent info on this thread, worth a serious read.

 

I believe you can still get the latest generation scoop from Shelby American, very high quality, fits perfect. I had mine replaced a few years ago. However, you won't be able to purchase a reserve, this route means you'll need to "replace" your current scoop, that is; you'll have to send the old scoop back and pay a few bucks for a new one. I think Jeremy is a good starting point (jeremys@shelby.com). Made to order, so they tend to wait until enough orders come in (I think mine was one of three and had to wait about a month). Good winter project ... if you feel it needs replacing.

 

Re your other post: I cut a basketball sized opening under the hood, semi-functional, to help vent heat from the supercharger. Round corners and a length of black rubber edging, looks factory. I played around with the idea of installing SS hood vents but decided to stay with the original looking hood.

 

[BIKEBOY]

Mike, there is a lot of excellent info on this thread, worth a serious read.

 

I believe you can still get the latest generation scoop from Shelby American, very high quality, fits perfect. I had mine replaced a few years ago. However, you won't be able to purchase a reserve, this route means you'll need to "replace" your current scoop, that is; you'll have to send the old scoop back and pay a few bucks for a new one. I think Jeremy is a good starting point (jeremys@shelby.com). Made to order, so they tend to wait until enough orders come in (I think mine was one of three and had to wait about a month). Good winter project ... if you feel it needs replacing.

 

Re your other post: I cut a basketball sized opening under the hood, semi-functional, to help vent heat from the supercharger. Round corners and a length of black rubber edging, looks factory. I played around with the idea of installing SS hood vents but decided to stay with the original looking hood.

 

Ats COOL!!!!!

 

 

BIKEBOY, thanks for your answer on the scoop and your welcoming me to the club! If you run across a scoop for sale aka (chip beck) or latest Shelby version I would appreciate a heads up! Also on a earlier post you mentioned seeing a 05 to 09 mustang gt with maybe Roush hood scoop backwords. Actually that might not be a bad setup for funneling in the air on a functional scoop because of the air turbulance in that area of the hood depending on where it is placed! I can attest to this because in earlier years I used to run a 1969 Z-28 with the factory cowl induction hood (ram air)! Also I remember another version of air induction on the early mustangs at the drags that would run the bubble hood with screens in the backside of the bubble towards the windshield. As you can probably tell by now I am a certified car nut!

Almost anything with a engine is cool! But I love the sound of my Harley Fat Boy and also that awesome sound coming from my 08SGT on the startup and then going threw the gears! I've owned many fast cars in the past, but I can actually say every time I drive the SHELBY it puts a smile on my face and I feel like a young hot rodder again! I've seen some posts on the forum where some owners feel that the car is under powered and thats their right and opinion! But I can say from actual experience of owning many fast cars for over 40 years,(manly vettes and mustangs) both big block and hi-po small blocks that these shelbys are set-up very good for both power and especially handling and they are a absolute blast to drive vigorously.

Sorry I was so long winded but I'm very passionate about cars!

Mike

 

You and I would get along just fine! LOL!! :happy feet:

[AttilioGT]

Guess this thread will never die lol. 

Question; I received a reply in regards to my replacement scoop. (I just purchased the car and it has the first generation completely warped scoop). I was told what photos to send for verification and how to order scoop when they do a production run. 

I've emailed the images twice and also emailed without images several times but no reply. Don't want to be a pain but it's been a month with no acknowledgement. Is there an alternative email other then the Jeremy one?

thanks

[BlackSGT]

5 hours ago, AttilioGT said:

Guess this thread will never die lol. 

Question; I received a reply in regards to my replacement scoop. (I just purchased the car and it has the first generation completely warped scoop). I was told what photos to send for verification and how to order scoop when they do a production run. 

I've emailed the images twice and also emailed without images several times but no reply. Don't want to be a pain but it's been a month with no acknowledgement. Is there an alternative email other then the Jeremy one?

thanks

I suggest calling Jeremy to confirm.

[JeffIsHereToo]

Any resolution on this? Interested to know the process now. 

[Shelbygolfpro]

I just installed the new, generation three (I believe) hood scoop when I got my stripes painted on. I had to call Ford's SVT division that deals directly with Shelby to verify my car. I gave them my VIN# as well as several pictures of the gen one scoop that was deformed. From there, they sent the verification and order details over to Shelby and said to call them after a few days to pay for it. I called Shelby several days after, and unfortunately they did not receive any verification from Ford. I am not sure if it got lost in emails or what, but thankfully had great customer service and (terrible I can't remember his name) he was able to push the verification through on the phone with me. Come to find out as we were talking, he said he actually did a lot of building on my car when it was being built in Vegas. At that time, he said it could take up to a month for them to produce the scoop and ship it out. I actually received the new scoop in less than ten days from the phone call. The scoop turned out great. The difference I know they did from gen two to gen three, is there is 29 rivets instead of 25. There could be other changes but I am not sure what they are. Only complaint I have, is that the directions say a template is included to get the exact distance where the scoop is supposed to be located relative to the back of the hood as well as being centered. The guy that painted my car missed the measurement by about an inch, so it isn't exactly factory but it is difficult to notice anyway. I also only received 25 rivets instead of 29, but Shelby gladly sent me four new ones. Jeremy at Shelby told me the shipping department wasn't aware the new scoop had 29 rivets instead of 25 . All good now though!

Edited July 29, 2019 by Shelbygolfpro

[JeffIsHereToo]

Thanks! Happy motoring! 

[clark17357]

On 3/6/2017 at 7:51 AM, 2007_Shelby_GT said:

Hello Everyone!

 

I was going back through this crazy thread, and noted that some of the photos and instructions may have dropped off, so I thought I'd post a newer version of my install.

 

Some time back, I replaced my first generation scoop (the original scoop that came with the car) with the custom Chip Beck/Heath Lloste version. I researched and discussed the install with Chip way back then, and this is "How I Did It"!

 

This install is NOT for the faint of heart! You really can screw this up big time if you aren't careful! Go slow, measure ten times, and cut/drill once! Read through all of the instructions before proceeding - your'e gonna need some stuff and this may help determine if you want to do this or not! I did it myself, and I'm not a professional by any means, so it can be done!

 

Also, I DID NOT USE RIVETS!! I used RivNuts! (Sometimes call blind rivets or Rivet Nuts) I used these because they allow the scoop to be removed and you can torque the hold-down bolts with less chance of messing up the paint on the scoop!

 

I cannot stress the importance of care and accuracy on this install! Accuracy and care in measuring, marking, drilling, etc. will lead to a really nice finished appearance!

 

Step 1. You need a replacement scoop! If you're lucky, get one that's pre-drilled - this saves a lot of tedious measuring and drilling! Thankfully, the Chip Beck scoop came pre-drilled, but wasn't painted, so I had to paint and finish it before beginning the install.

 

Step 2. Remove your old scoop! My scoop, since it was original, utilized about 6 bolts to hold it to the hood. All of the "rivets", except for four, (two at the front and two at the back) were fake! Then there was an additional four larger bolts, again, 2 at the front and 2 at the back, that also held the scoop to the hood!

 

Step 3. Clean up the area where your old scoop was, and place your new, finished scoop on the hood. Carefully move it around until it looks proper - this may take a few minutes because you want it to cover any previous holes created by the original scoop install. You don't want any of the holes in the new scoop to be within a half-inch of any old holes in the hood - with any luck, you can adjust the position of the new scoop to cover all of the old holes and it will still look correct!

 

Step 4. Tape the new scoop into place to keep it from moving, then utilize a small Sharpie to mark the positions of ALL of the holes in the new scoop! Accuracy really counts! Do this carefully as these marks are where you are going to drill the new holes to install the new scoop!

 

Step 5. Remove the tape and remove the scoop, then REMOVE THE HOOD from the car! It's way easier to work on the install with the hood off the car! (Easier clean up too!)

 

Step 6. Choose your bolt size! Guess what? Your bolt size is determined by the holes in the scoop! (either pre-drilled or otherwise!) Here's a diagram:

 

http://www.teamshelby.com/forums/uploads/gallery/album_1123/gallery_13043_1123_404113.jpg

 

Step 7. Machine bolts? I used 8/32, stainless steel, button head, 1 inch long, like these from Fastenal:

 

http://www.teamshelby.com/forums/uploads/gallery/album_1123/gallery_13043_1123_2036.jpg

 

Step 8. Choose your RivNut size! Guess what? Your bolt size determines your RivNut size! So, if you have 8/32 machine bolts, your RivNut threads must match! I used aluminum RivNuts from Fastenal that were grooved on the outside, (the grooves help keep the RivNut from spinning around when you install the bolts later) The "grip range" on the RivNut has to be at least the thickness of the outer layer of the hood - go for a little longer and you'll be fine. The RivNuts looked like this:

 

http://www.teamshelby.com/forums/uploads/gallery/album_1123/gallery_13043_1123_5637.jpg

 

Step 9. Do you have a RivNut tool? Buy one from somewhere - Harbor Freight, Northern Tool, etc. They are SIMILAR to a PopRivet tool, except they use a threaded insert, (matched to your RivNut threads), to seat the RivNut. They look like this:

 

http://www.teamshelby.com/forums/uploads/gallery/album_1123/gallery_13043_1123_15485.jpg

 

Step 10. OK, we're about ready to drill the holes, but first, let's see how this is suppose to work, look at this:

 

http://www.teamshelby.com/forums/uploads/gallery/album_1123/gallery_13043_1123_309936.jpg

 

Step 11. This is where things get tedious! If you aren't comfortable drilling holes in your hood, go no further! YOU'VE BEEN WARNED!! Ok, you have your bolts, you have your RivNuts, you've marked your hood where all of the holes need to be drilled, and you have your hood on a padded set of saw-horses so you can lean over the hood and start drilling! HOLD IT RIGHT THERE! What size drill do you have? The size of the drill bit is determined by the size of the RivNut! My RivNuts specified what size hole should be drilled - in my case, it was a hair larger than the lower portion of the RivNut. Just large enough for the RivNut to drop in, but NOT fall through! (the upper lip of the RivNut remains exposed on top of the hood once it's installed!) Take a look at this picture of my hood after I drilled holes and installed the RivNuts. (Ignore the large hole - I cut out the hood so my scoop is "functional")

 

http://www.teamshelby.com/forums/uploads/1288661478/gallery_13043_1123_8028.jpg

 

If you look closely at that picture, you can see a few things quite readily! There's a LOT of holes! You can see the pattern of the scoop and you can also see a couple of the old holes from the original scoop - note that these will be covered by the new scoop! Also look closely at the new holes - the RivNuts are installed and you can see the upper flange of the RivNut is resting on top of the hood - that is the way it's supposed to look!

 

OK, back to the hood and those holes need to be drilled! A couple of more things before we begin: The hood is ALUMINUM and very soft, therefore it doesn't require brute force to drill - take it easy! You are drilling through BOTH layers with this drill size, be aware! Wrap a piece of masking tape around the drill bit up near the drill chuck - this will help keep you from scuffing up the surface if you can't stop the drill in time! OK, get it done - carefully drill all the previously marked holes all the way through both layers of the hood!

 

Step 12. You've drilled all of the holes from the top side of the hood, now it's time to flip the hood over and work on the inner layer of the hood. I HIGHLY recommend using a Dremel tool with a pointed grinding head attached. (this is the grinding wheel that looks like a bullet found in most Dremel sets.) You can do this with a drill bit, but the Dremel gives way better control! Oh, if you didn't already, remove the hood blanket! There's a special two-pronged fork tool for this, but I used a golfers "divot" tool that worked just fine!

 

DANGER - YOU DO NOT WANT TO DRILL THROUGH THE BOTH LAYERS OF THE HOOD WITH THE DREMEL OR A LARGER DRILL BIT - JUST THE INNER LAYER!! The reason for the larger hole in the inner layer is so the RivNut won't pinch the two layers of the hood together - you may permanently dimple your hood if that happens! Remove enough material in the inner layer so you can see the lower portion of the RivNut clearly - the hole should be about 1/4 to 3/8 inch.

Here's a close up picture of the holes and RivNuts on the bottom side of my hood:

 

http://www.teamshelby.com/forums/uploads/gallery/album_1123/gallery_13043_1123_67547.jpg

 

Step 13. Installation of the RivNuts! Flip the hood back over to the top side. If you've done everything properly, you should have a neat "scoop shaped" pattern of small holes in the outer layer of the hood, and that same pattern, with larger holes, on the inner layer. Congratulations, half of the hard work is done! Now you're nearly ready to install the RivNuts, however, if you've never installed any before, do yourself a favor and go find a sheet of aluminum that's the same thickness as the outer layer of the hood, and practice a little! I was lucky in that I had cut that giant hole out of my hood to make the scoop functional, so I had a handy piece of aluminum that was just the right thickness to play with! Take a sample piece of aluminum and drill a few holes, (the small size, just like on the outer layer of the hood) and practice setting the RivNuts before moving on to the hood. Here's a diagram of how most RivNut tools function - it's SIMILAR to a PopRivet, EXCEPT YOU DON'T SQUEEZE TO THE POINT OF FAILURE! You squeeze just enough to seat the RivNut into place!

 

http://www.teamshelby.com/forums/uploads/gallery/album_1123/gallery_13043_1123_625099.jpg

 

Did you catch the misspelling? "Overtighted"? Just checking to see if you were paying attention! Again, don't over-squeeze/over-tighten with the RivNut tool! Anyway, it should be relatively easy to set these RivNuts - they are like the hood, aluminum and soft.

 

Step 14. Install the new hood scoop! If everything went according to plan, all of your RivNuts set properly and you're now ready to install the scoop. Take your new scoop and lay it into place, lining up all the holes with the RivNuts you just installed. Grab a hand full of those button head bolts and start carefully threading them through the scoop, into the RivNuts. You should only thread them in a few turns - leave them loose so you can wiggle the scoop around and make sure ALL of the bolts go into place before you begin to tighten. If any of the RivNuts spin, or are loose, remove the scoop and reset the RivNut with the tool. Once all of the bolts are threaded partially into the RivNuts, carefully start at the back of the scoop and gently torque each one into place.

 

Step 15. Step back and admire your handiwork! Here's a couple of closeup pics of my installation:

 

http://www.teamshelby.com/forums/uploads/gallery/album_1123/gallery_13043_1123_348284.jpg

 

http://www.teamshelby.com/forums/uploads/gallery/album_1123/gallery_13043_1123_817072.jpg

 

 

Before and after, from underneath:

 

http://www.teamshelby.com/forums/uploads/gallery/album_1123/gallery_13043_1123_50754.jpg

 

 

Tips and hints:

 

A) What happens if you make a mistake? Well, either you ruined a perfectly good hood, or scoop, or both, but there are a couple of things to consider before driving off a cliff! It's best to start with as small of machine bolt as the scoop holes will allow - 6/32 or Metric equivalent if at all possible. With the smaller bolt, if you screw up and over drill a hole, or over stress a RivNut, you can essentially start over by drilling out the hole to the next size - 8/32, or even up to 10/32. Try to stay with the smaller sizes - if you get to 10/32, the finished product will look weird because the bolt heads are larger. In extreme "oh poop" cases, you can always install "fake" rivets and use 3m Red tape to fasten the scoop to the hood. (Fake rivets are made by cutting the heads off of the machine bolts and epoxy/super gluing them into place on the scoop)

 

B) Spacers - I think someone, (George?), suggested using spacers between the two layers of the hood and then utilizing a longer grip-range RivNut, thus avoiding the enlarging of the hole in the inner layer. I can't tell you if this would work or not, because I was already finished by the time I got it! Sounds viable though!

 

C) You cut a huge hole in your hood! Are you insane? Well, I've been told I'm crazy, but I actually think this modification adds to the flavor/purpose of the scoop! In the case of the SGT, aerodynamics probably don't allow much air to actually force feed through the scoop. As a matter of fact, most of the air hits the front of the car and is kicked up and over the scoop - I have proof because I've driven in pouring rain and not a single drop ever got into the engine compartment through the scoop! Maybe some air gets in there, but it ain't much! Where I do see benefit is heat release after shut down. I have a supercharger, and I've seen heat waves rolling out of the scoop after I've parked, so there's a plus! (I also made a red, "Remove Before Flight" plug for the open scoop when parked, which really gets a lot of attention - Top Gear posted a picture of it on their website a few years ago!)

 

If anyone else has tips/tricks they'd like to add, just reply to THIS POST, not the thread - it will keep things tidy!

 

Sam

Sam,

I am about to embark on the journey you have completed using my Chip Beck hood scoop.  The written instructions are great but the photos do not show.  I am old and not well versed in technology so the odds are that it is me that is the problem.  Any assistance you can give will be appreciated.

Jim Clark

[2007_Shelby_GT]

Hey Jim, let me dig around and see if I can get you the pictures!

[clark17357]

38 minutes ago, 2007_Shelby_GT said:

Hey Jim, let me dig around and see if I can get you the pictures!

Thanks, Sam.  Very much appreciated.

Jim

[2007_Shelby_GT]

Weird, all of the photos are in my gallery album, but aren't showing up here.

Sam

 

[2007_Shelby_GT]

[2007_Shelby_GT]

[2007_Shelby_GT]

1 hour ago, clark17357 said:

Thanks, Sam.  Very much appreciated.

Jim

Jim,

If you look at my profile, by clicking on my name,(left column, above the Shelby logo), see if you are able to view my "Gallery"

Sam

[GaryG]

I recently ordered a new scoop for my 2007 GT.  If you choose to get a new scoop from Shelby, they will ask you for a few things. For example, the vehicle VIN, a copy of you drivers license or a picture of the car title. They will also ask you also to destroy the old scoop before shipping the new one. Or you can send the old scoop to them, buty this way you pay for postage. Cost of new fiberglass scoop approximatley 400.

My original scoop was urethane, and ultimatley it warped. My stripes are already painted on, but the scoop was the last part that looked horrible.  as stated in this thread previously, the old scoop was held on with 6 bolts and two of the rivets. The rest of the rivets were completely cosmetic. The new scoop comes with pop rivets. Im planning on taking the car to the guy who painted my stripes on.

The question I have is: What have people in this forum done similarly? Did you use the pop rivets, or did you go with the RivNut solution? 

Thanks

Gary G