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FRPP handling pack


moabman

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Had the FRPP handling pack installed yesterday and I love the new lower stance. I have a question though: Can anyone help with a popping noise that is coming from the front? I didn't get to see the spring and dampers installed but I know the new bushings on the sway bars were installed correctly. I can't even push the front down now at all. Is that normal? Do the multimatics need to be "released" when installed? The popping sounds like it's spring related.

 

Thanks!

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Just got back from driving my vert around for about an hour. The noise is still there but it is coming from the left side so I'm sure that it is a loose fiting. The new ride is fantastic. I think it lowered the car nearly 2" instead of the 1-1.5". It is very noticeable to look at and when you step in. The lowering is nice but the ride is fantastic. It is much firmer and there is no roll at all at normal "sane" speeds. I can hardly wait to get it out on the track and take some twisties. The dampers are working so I'm assuming that they were installed right. It was raining cats and "Snoopys" yesterday when I picked it up so I have to give it a good wash. I'll get some pictures after that.

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Had the FRPP handling pack installed yesterday and I love the new lower stance. I have a question though: Can anyone help with a popping noise that is coming from the front? I didn't get to see the spring and dampers installed but I know the new bushings on the sway bars were installed correctly. I can't even push the front down now at all. Is that normal? Do the multimatics need to be "released" when installed? The popping sounds like it's spring related.

 

Thanks!

Try checking to see if all of the bolts were torqued down, maybe have some try and jounce the car while you are listening. I have had shocks and sway bar bushings do this before.

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Thanks Carnut. I'll give it a try. It's so low now, I don't know if i can get my normal floor jack under it! Wish I had a lift. They had to wedge the Hunter alignment rack because it caught on of the convertible braces in the rear when we drove it up on the rack - it's low :happy feet:

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Thanks Carnut. I'll give it a try. It's so low now, I don't know if i can get my normal floor jack under it! Wish I had a lift. They had to wedge the Hunter alignment rack because it caught on of the convertible braces in the rear when we drove it up on the rack - it's low :happy feet:

 

I'll get to find out tomorrow how low it is. Having the same done to mine. I'll let you know if the popping noise is "normal". :hysterical:

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Popping noise normal. Check!

 

Can't wait to see the pics, Mark! (and Orf)

 

I've got Sportlines on and I can't hardly get any shock travel when I lean on a fender. A wee bit stiff for ol' Ruf!

 

But it looks real good.

 

Pics!!!

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No. The popping noise is not normal. Mine doesn't do it.

 

I did like the noticeable difference when taking turns. The first turn I took at speed, I started to lean out of habit to compensate for the body roll. I didn't even realize that I had become accustomed to doing it. Well, I felt off balance because the car doesn't roll in the turns like it used to.

 

Pics attached, Ruf.

 

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...It is not good to keeping smacking your metal...

 

and it will go blind :hysterical2::hysterical2::hysterical2:

 

Change the GT500 into a normal GT and that's what my car looks like! It pops only when going over a big bump and sounds like torque being released on the sway bar or perhaps the coil spring top rotating slightly. I'm taking it back in and asking that they check and retorque all the bolts involved. Does the spring have to be rotated into a certain position when placed on top of the damper?

 

I had to change the toe-in of course, but the camber was out on the left side. I noticed that they provide an eccentric bolt and instructions on how to horizontally elongate the lower damper mounting hole to provide some camber adjustability. Did yours need any adjustment except for the toe-in Orf?

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I had to change the toe-in of course, but the camber was out on the left side. I noticed that they provide an eccentric bolt and instructions on how to horizontally elongate the lower damper mounting hole to provide some camber adjustability. Did yours need any adjustment except for the toe-in Orf?

 

I didn't do the install, but the technician who did adjusted both the camber (slightly) and the toe. He and I discussed the wear pattern on the front tires and agreed that the toe was probably set to the max allowable in the range that Ford specifies from the factory. The inside treads on both front tires were wearing much more than the other treads on the fronts.

 

Did you install the new tower strut?

 

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Yes I did, but because mine is a na GT, I just have the cheesy dual bar, To tell the truth, I'm not a big fan of the strut tower brace. The FR500c Can Am car doesn't use them and it road races. Makes me believe they aren't necessary for cornering issues. However, I think that kind of bracing might help with flexing issues on a convertible so I went ahead and installed it. Yours must be the new brace that Ford Racing has been talking about. I like the way it looks. Do you have a part number for it?

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Is this the handling pack for the SS package? In CW'S spreadsheet it lists the FRPP handling pack for SS, just wondering if THIS is the one? And did you get it at Ford website or SAI website?

I need to get around & updating that spreadsheet again. It was based on info that came out in press releases or from Amy threads & we all know, things are subject to change w/o notice when it come to making a car for production.

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Is this the handling pack for the SS package? In CW'S spreadsheet it lists the FRPP handling pack for SS, just wondering if THIS is the one? And did you get it at Ford website or SAI website?

I don't know if it is what is slted for the SS, but I do know it is the handling pack for the GT500 shown in the FRPP catalog. I ordered it through the dealership, who called FRPP directly.

 

Unless you have a forklift, I wouldn't try to order it yourself. It all came in a very large box that was strapped to a pallet.

 

One other observation from driving today: The nose dive under spirited braking is gone. Chalk that up in the win column.

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The box is approximately 4.5 feet by 4.5 feet by 2 feet tall and metal strapped to an oak pallet. Amazing! When you break it down into the enclosed pieces, it easily would fit in a much smaller box or even better, into several much, much smaller boxes. If you have it shipped to your house, it will come by a freight truck. That's why I bought it from my dealer, the sales tax was much less than the freight charge. Thanks for reminding me Orf.

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Yeah. At the Nag's Head gathering (the most recent one), Orf and I lined up at a stop light on route 12 in Nag's Head after dinner.

 

I got the jump on him - and let off in 3rd as he was closing.

 

At the next light, without any prompt from me, Christine lowered her window and asked him, "Is that all you got?" Priceless! That's why I married her. :hysterical2:

 

Before she asked him that - he asked me, "Mostly stock?" :hysterical2:

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Yeah. At the Nag's Head gathering (the most recent one), Orf and I lined up at a stop light on route 12 in Nag's Head after dinner.

 

I got the jump on him - and let off in 3rd as he was closing.

 

At the next light, without any prompt from me, Christine lowered her window and asked him, "Is that all you got?" Priceless! That's why I married her. :hysterical2:

 

Before she asked him that - he asked me, "Mostly stock?" :hysterical2:

 

What he forgot to mention was that I was oblivious to the fact that we were racing. I never went over 2500 RPM, and I was closing. :stirpot:

 

Next time we get together, we'll line 'em up at a stop light, cam boy.

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So is it safe to say that all those that said you are required to use adjustable lca's and adjustable panhard rods and relocation brackets for a lowered car were just pushing more products that are not needed on a street car?

 

I assume this since both you seem to be driving fine and therefore your rear end must be in check because I can't imagine the ride being pleasant if your rearend is 2 inchs to the left!

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So is it safe to say that all those that said you are required to use adjustable lca's and adjustable panhard rods and relocation brackets for a lowered car were just pushing more products that are not needed on a street car?

 

I assume this since both you seem to be driving fine and therefore your rear end must be in check because I can't imagine the ride being pleasant if your rearend is 2 inchs to the left!

 

I think if your car is pretty well centered before you lower it, it won't change much afterwards. When the car has all its weight on the suspension, the panhard bar is nearly parallel with the ground. The 2 inch change in height can't "push the car 1 way, or another, by very much. A small fraction of an inch, at most.

 

The issue I had was to get a decent amount of angle between the tranny and the driveshaft, and between the driveshaft and the rear diff. Mine is a one piece. The stock two piece should be a lot easier to deal with.

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I think if your car is pretty well centered before you lower it, it won't change much afterwards. When the car has all its weight on the suspension, the panhard bar is nearly parallel with the ground. The 2 inch change in height can't "push the car 1 way, or another, by very much. A small fraction of an inch, at most.

 

The issue I had was to get a decent amount of angle between the tranny and the driveshaft, and between the driveshaft and the rear diff. Mine is a one piece. The stock two piece should be a lot easier to deal with.

 

How wide is your driveshaft around?

 

This is why I am waiting for a stout one piece 3" driveshaft made of aluminum or steel maybe or CF if the price is right :)

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