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Anyone Else With Bad Rear Brake Calipers?


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I have taken my 13 to the dealer multiple times now for rear brake rotors warping and causing a squeaking chirping sound once they get hot. They turn the rotors and fixes it for a month then right back the way it was. With traction control on the brakes are applied to the slipping wheels, and the car can surely spin little 9.5" wheels with that much power. When you get out of the car those rear rotors are almost smoking.

 

I finally got fed up and bought new rotors and pads and installed them myself. On those old mustang single calipers you put the tool in and rotate it like a dial to compress back in a little to get the rotor on, well the drivers side will turn really rough but does not actually move in. Assuming that means the caliper is toast?

 

It seems like an obvious design flaw to put tiny calipers in charge of reigning in that much power on these cars, especially if they offered a track pack but you take what you get I guess. My question is has anyone else noticed this behavior or have rear calipers replaced on warranty yet?

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And a line lock.

 

Hey, I have a novel idea to keep from wearing out brakes.

 

Turn the Traction Control off.

 

 

Phill

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Hey, I have a novel idea to keep from wearing out brakes.

 

Turn the Traction Control off.

 

 

Phill

 

I am inclined to agree with you considering the result but isn't the whole point of launch control, on the street anyway, is to control the wheel spin and translate that lost energy into forward motion rather than spinning wheels? But more importantly it's safety for me, high hp rear drive cars have a tendancy to get wild and snap around violently under some conditions, I'd like to keep it in one piece. Youtube is full of older corvettes and mustangs that start to lose it then suddenly snap around on themselves well after you get off the gas. The systems back did nothing to protect against this, but they do now.

I don't want to characterize this issue as I'm spinning tires everyday everywhere I go, not the case. In all reality maybe once a month and always from a roll around 30-40mph. This shelby has not seen a drag strip yet but considering a prepped track, I would agree that turning off the controls there would make sense being a controlled environment designed to stick evenly.

 

But as fellow owners of this car you know all to well that breaking the tires loose from a roll or 30mph isn't unheard of so either I got a faulty caliper from the factory or like you mentioned, it's total user error and should disable all safetynets if I predict that I may punch it at some point. Again referring to the original question, has anybody had rear calipers replaced under warranty? If there are multiple people than it probably is my theory that the T/C is toasting an underspec caliper, and a brake upgrade is advised as it will surely happen again. If not it's probably just a bum caliper and I needn't worry about it.

 

Important to note that for the last 14 months I have run only super sticky Toyo R888's with R-Compound rubber, translation - They rarely spin. Also that I've owned many blown svt/shelby products over 20 years on track and street, and I'd like to think I'm know how to handle one properly.

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I am inclined to agree with you considering the result but isn't the whole point of launch control, on the street anyway, is to control the wheel spin and translate that lost energy into forward motion rather than spinning wheels?

 

 

You might want to read your Owners Manual as to what it says about using TC.

 

If you're not on wet or cold roads, turn it off.

 

 

Phill

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