Dave1968 Posted June 24, 2015 Report Share Posted June 24, 2015 I want to change oil in the diff. The manual says you have to run the cooling pump, obviously to get all the oil out. However, what about disconnecting a line and blowing the remaining oil out. Does the pump come on with the key on. Is it connected to a thermometer and only comes on when its hot. Can you manually actuate the pump with jumper wires. Anyone have any experience with this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shel-b001 Posted June 24, 2015 Report Share Posted June 24, 2015 I want to change oil in the diff. The manual says you have to run the cooling pump, obviously to get all the oil out. However, what about disconnecting a line and blowing the remaining oil out. Does the pump come on with the key on. Is it connected to a thermometer and only comes on when its hot. Can you manually actuate the pump with jumper wires. Anyone have any experience with this. Wow I`am learning something new every day, didn`t know they had diff pump attached where is it located ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norton Posted June 25, 2015 Report Share Posted June 25, 2015 I want to change oil in the diff. The manual says you have to run the cooling pump, obviously to get all the oil out. However, what about disconnecting a line and blowing the remaining oil out. Does the pump come on with the key on. Is it connected to a thermometer and only comes on when its hot. Can you manually actuate the pump with jumper wires. Anyone have any experience with this. I changed mine, but didn't bother with what was in the cooling lines. To be honest, I'm not sure it's worth the hassle. Wow I`am learning something new every day, didn`t know they had diff pump attached where is it located ? I'm not sure about previous years, but the 2013-2014 MY cars could be ordered with the optional "SVT Track Pack" which included oil, transmission, and rear differential coolers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave1968 Posted June 25, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 25, 2015 Update - all done. So as far as the diff is concerned, I drained it by uncoupling the lower cooling line. Filled it up and went for a drive. Let the new fluid clean out the axle tubes and cooling lines, then came back and drained it again. Nice and clean. The old oil was quite dirty and the fill plug magnet had a significant amount of filings on it. I used Amsoil Severe gear EP 75w90 with the limited slip additive. The GT500 supplement says you don't have to EVER change that oil - imagine. Now here's where it gets good. I drained the transmission and put in Amsoil ATF Multi vehicle Full synthetic. The cooler in this case holds only a minimal amount so I didn't worry about it. After driving around a bit and working the oil in, the transmission shifts so much nicer - you will definitely notice a difference! It will also run a little cooler due to the Amsoil and the amazing properties of the oil. I'll probably due it all again just before storing it this winter and then only once a year after that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shel-b001 Posted June 25, 2015 Report Share Posted June 25, 2015 Update - all done. So as far as the diff is concerned, I drained it by uncoupling the lower cooling line. Filled it up and went for a drive. Let the new fluid clean out the axle tubes and cooling lines, then came back and drained it again. Nice and clean. The old oil was quite dirty and the fill plug magnet had a significant amount of filings on it. I used Amsoil Severe gear EP 75w90 with the limited slip additive. The GT500 supplement says you don't have to EVER change that oil - imagine. Now here's where it gets good. I drained the transmission and put in Amsoil ATF Multi vehicle Full synthetic. The cooler in this case holds only a minimal amount so I didn't worry about it. After driving around a bit and working the oil in, the transmission shifts so much nicer - you will definitely notice a difference! It will also run a little cooler due to the Amsoil and the amazing properties of the oil. I'll probably due it all again just before storing it this winter and then only once a year after that. I have heard reports on Royal Purple doing the samething. When I changed my rear end cover & installed the Shelby Billet cover my old oil was like new & found no fillings . When you drain it in the fall & find fillings I would pull the cover & inspect everything . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave1968 Posted June 25, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 25, 2015 I think I'm pretty safe now as far as filings. Those that were on the magnet this time would be from breakin, maybe some assembly crap, etc... But, yah, if I find a bunch more, I will definitely look deeper. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
svtmattUT Posted June 25, 2015 Report Share Posted June 25, 2015 Update - all done. So as far as the diff is concerned, I drained it by uncoupling the lower cooling line. Filled it up and went for a drive. Let the new fluid clean out the axle tubes and cooling lines, then came back and drained it again. Nice and clean. The old oil was quite dirty and the fill plug magnet had a significant amount of filings on it. I used Amsoil Severe gear EP 75w90 with the limited slip additive. The GT500 supplement says you don't have to EVER change that oil - imagine. Now here's where it gets good. I drained the transmission and put in Amsoil ATF Multi vehicle Full synthetic. The cooler in this case holds only a minimal amount so I didn't worry about it. After driving around a bit and working the oil in, the transmission shifts so much nicer - you will definitely notice a difference! It will also run a little cooler due to the Amsoil and the amazing properties of the oil. I'll probably due it all again just before storing it this winter and then only once a year after that. Have a link to the exact transmission fluid you purchased by chance? My 2013 shifts fine but it's still notchy, my 08 was really notchy, my 04 cobra was notchy. Be nice to try and resolve some of that if nothing more than a fluid swap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave1968 Posted June 26, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 26, 2015 I'm having trouble putting the link on here so here's the address: www.amsoil.com look for: Signature series Multi vehicle full synthetic Automatic transmission fluid When you click on it it will give you complete details as well as aplications. Enjoy! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norton Posted June 26, 2015 Report Share Posted June 26, 2015 Update - all done. So as far as the diff is concerned, I drained it by uncoupling the lower cooling line. Filled it up and went for a drive. Let the new fluid clean out the axle tubes and cooling lines, then came back and drained it again. Nice and clean. The old oil was quite dirty and the fill plug magnet had a significant amount of filings on it. I used Amsoil Severe gear EP 75w90 with the limited slip additive. The GT500 supplement says you don't have to EVER change that oil - imagine. Now here's where it gets good. I drained the transmission and put in Amsoil ATF Multi vehicle Full synthetic. The cooler in this case holds only a minimal amount so I didn't worry about it. After driving around a bit and working the oil in, the transmission shifts so much nicer - you will definitely notice a difference! It will also run a little cooler due to the Amsoil and the amazing properties of the oil. I'll probably due it all again just before storing it this winter and then only once a year after that. I use the exact same fluids, and am very happy with all of them. Product links... AMSOIL Signature Series Multi-Vehicle Synthetic ATF AMSOIL Severe Gear 75W-90 AMSOIL Slip Lock Differential Additive Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert M Posted June 28, 2015 Report Share Posted June 28, 2015 (edited) When I had my 2008 8.8 out for a True Trac install I found that taking the cover off for a fluid drain left a considerable amount of fluid in the "sump" portion of the 8.8 housing. This sump area is also were all heavier debris such as clutch disc material gathers. After I removed my cover there was quite a bit of wet graphite type material in the old gear lube that did not come out with the cover removal, it too several scoops with my hand to finally get all of it out and then wipe out all of the rest of the contaminated/left over fluid. My car had 600 original miles at the time and the "gunk" in the sump was nasty. This is just an FYI because the only fluid that will be removed by the pump will be at the bottom most fitting level and the bottom cover bolt is blind so it does not allow the lower sump area to drain. The "gunk" in the bottom is the most damaging material to circulate through this system and the posi-unit, In the picture below, you can see how much further down in the case the ring gear rotates below the case opening. The ring gear dredges up all of that contaminated fluid into the new fluid if that old gunk fluid is not also removed, like I said, just an FYI...... On the inside of the bottom ledge the cast iron casting goes in a little bit and then drops off.............that area behind the ledge is the area I call the "sump", and the only way to get the most contaminated fluid out of that area is with your hand and then wiping it clean, I even used some Brake Cleaner spray to get all of that contamination out because I did not want that old gunk contaminating my new fluid and true trac install. It was nasty! R Edited June 28, 2015 by Robert M Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shel-b001 Posted June 28, 2015 Report Share Posted June 28, 2015 When I had my 2008 8.8 out for a True Trac install I found that taking the cover off for a fluid drain left a considerable amount of fluid in the "sump" portion of the 8.8 housing. This sump area is also were all heavier debris such as clutch disc material gathers. After I removed my cover there was quite a bit of wet graphite type material in the old gear lube that did not come out with the cover removal, it too several scoops with my hand to finally get all of it out and then wipe out all of the rest of the contaminated/left over fluid. My car had 600 original miles at the time and the "gunk" in the sump was nasty. This is just an FYI because the only fluid that will be removed by the pump will be at the bottom most fitting level and the bottom cover bolt is blind so it does not allow the lower sump area to drain. The "gunk" in the bottom is the most damaging material to circulate through this system and the posi-unit, In the picture below, you can see how much further down in the case the ring gear rotates below the case opening. The ring gear dredges up all of that contaminated fluid into the new fluid if that old gunk fluid is not also removed, like I said, just an FYI...... On the inside of the bottom ledge the cast iron casting goes in a little bit and then drops off.............that area behind the ledge is the area I call the "sump", and the only way to get the most contaminated fluid out of that area is with your hand and then wiping it clean, I even used some Brake Cleaner spray to get all of that contamination out because I did not want that old gunk contaminating my new fluid and true trac install. It was nasty! R Great photo of the inside case & when I replaced my cover plate with Shelby cover I had very little as you call it Gunk in my case but did wipe it out with a soak rag soaked with solvent solvent . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert M Posted June 28, 2015 Report Share Posted June 28, 2015 (edited) Great photo of the inside case & when I replaced my cover plate with Shelby cover I had very little as you call it Gunk in my case but did wipe it out with a soak rag soaked with solvent solvent . Mine was mainly left behind dirty fluid, but in the bottom there was some gunk or sludge. When I examined it closer it looked like black graphite, possibly material from the CF clutches? I had no issue with my posi unit and like I said, my car only had 600 original miles when I did the True Trac install, but even with that low miles there was enough fluid laying in the bottom that I certainly did not want that contaminating my new fluid and that old crap going through the bearings and posi unit. ^^^The only reason I did any of this is because, unlike the 2011-up which have factory paint on the axle tubes, my 2008 did not and I did a total Ford assy. line correct restoration on my axle assy. before the rust pitted the bare metal surfaces. How much did you have left in yours below the cover opening? 1 pint + or -? R Edited June 28, 2015 by Robert M Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shel-b001 Posted June 29, 2015 Report Share Posted June 29, 2015 Mine was mainly left behind dirty fluid, but in the bottom there was some gunk or sludge. When I examined it closer it looked like black graphite, possibly material from the CF clutches? I had no issue with my posi unit and like I said, my car only had 600 original miles when I did the True Trac install, but even with that low miles there was enough fluid laying in the bottom that I certainly did not want that contaminating my new fluid and that old crap going through the bearings and posi unit. ^^^The only reason I did any of this is because, unlike the 2011-up which have factory paint on the axle tubes, my 2008 did not and I did a total Ford assy. line correct restoration on my axle assy. before the rust pitted the bare metal surfaces. How much did you have left in yours below the cover opening? 1 pint + or -? R Less than a pint & I already had detailed my axle & drive shaft. I believe I put the Shelby cover on at 5,000 Km. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave1968 Posted June 29, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 29, 2015 Thus the reason they should be putting in drain plugs in that lowest area like other manufactures; but they still insist on putting the fill hole in probably the most awkward of places and no drain. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert M Posted June 29, 2015 Report Share Posted June 29, 2015 Thus the reason they should be putting in drain plugs in that lowest area like other manufactures; but they still insist on putting the fill hole in probably the most awkward of places and no drain. I agree, a drill and tap in the low area would have solved this, and a flat magnetic plug would be all the better. The way it is now...............well similar.............is like draining the oil out of the engine crankcase and refilling it with new oil, but not changing the oil filter! <<I know that is an exaggeration, but leaving a pint or so of old fluid in the sump area of the diff. is only going to be mixed in with the nice new fluid after a few revolutions of the ring gear not to mention any "gunk/sludge" that may also circulate through bearings, clutch packs and the diff. cooler system after being mixed with the new fluid. R Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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