ViperNC Posted May 29, 2015 Report Share Posted May 29, 2015 (edited) Thought it was the poly bushings needing lube, but after hitting everything with grease that I could find the groan persists when I turn the wheel to the left. I'm fairly certain it is the left tie rod adjuster: http://www.shelbystore.com/product-p/5S3Z-3A130-SL.htm The heim joint is dry as a bone and there is not zerk fitting to lube it. Tried penetrating oil and that didn't work. Any thoughts to get this thing to shut up? It's driving me NUTZ!!! Edited May 30, 2015 by ViperNC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin Patten Posted May 30, 2015 Report Share Posted May 30, 2015 Use Kroil penetrating oil and spray it on the spherical ball - then take it for a drive or just raise and lower the front end so it works it's way into the liner. Spray both top and bottom. If that doesn't work then you will need to unbolt the end from the stud and hand rotate it while lubing up the liner - rotate so you can get it on the sides where the ball/spherical portioning makes contact with the inner liner. HTH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ViperNC Posted May 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 30, 2015 (edited) Use Kroil penetrating oil and spray it on the spherical ball - then take it for a drive or just raise and lower the front end so it works it's way into the liner. Spray both top and bottom. If that doesn't work then you will need to unbolt the end from the stud and hand rotate it while lubing up the liner - rotate so you can get it on the sides where the ball/spherical portioning makes contact with the inner liner. HTH Thanks Albino. I take it you have experienced the same issue in the past. Earlier this evening I was trying not to remove the end from the stud and let the penetrating oil seep down into the liner. Took it for a drive afterwards turning the wheel fully left and right repeatedly and no change. This past Wednesday I took my car to my local shop and got it up on the rack. We did unbolt the end from the stud and did exactly what you said, but it was with some type of spray lube. Probably not penetrating oil. Everything was quiet afterwards for the rest of the day. Got back in the car today (two days later) and the groan was back. Guess I'll hit it again and see what happens. I've got some penetrating oil that I use for my mountain bike called Tri-Flow: http://www.triflowlubricants.com/Tri-Flow_Superior_Drip_Lubricant.html Wonder if that would work this time if I disassemble and rotate the ball by hand to lube the liner? Edited May 30, 2015 by ViperNC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin Patten Posted May 30, 2015 Report Share Posted May 30, 2015 You can try it and see - if you really want to address the issue .... The problem is that the spherical ends are drying out due to the heat emitted from the front brake rotors and you need to first lube them and then wrap them with a heat insulator wrap or slip a silicone boot over them to keep them quiet/lubed. Make sure that you don't have any side to side play or up/down play because if you do you need to replace them. If you need to replace them - buy quality ones with Kevlar liners and not Teflon liners (they still have to have some lube on them and be protected from the heat). I've seen some use the asbestos mesh starter heat shield blanket and cut it in half then use safety wire to make a boot for the outer tie rod end. Just saying. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ViperNC Posted May 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 30, 2015 You can try it and see - if you really want to address the issue .... The problem is that the spherical ends are drying out due to the heat emitted from the front brake rotors and you need to first lube them and then wrap them with a heat insulator wrap or slip a silicone boot over them to keep them quiet/lubed. Make sure that you don't have any side to side play or up/down play because if you do you need to replace them. If you need to replace them - buy quality ones with Kevlar liners and not Teflon liners (they still have to have some lube on them and be protected from the heat). I've seen some use the asbestos mesh starter heat shield blanket and cut it in half then use safety wire to make a boot for the outer tie rod end. Just saying. Gotcha. Thanks for the info! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert M Posted May 30, 2015 Report Share Posted May 30, 2015 (edited) Thought it was the poly bushings needing lube, but after hitting everything with grease that I could find the groan persists when I turn the wheel to the left. I'm fairly certain it is the left tie rod adjuster: http://www.shelbystore.com/product-p/5S3Z-3A130-SL.htm The heim joint is dry as a bone and there is not zerk fitting to lube it. Tried penetrating oil and that didn't work. Any thoughts to get this thing to shut up? It's driving me NUTZ!!! Thank you for starting this thread. I too have a groan that has just started in the right front corner. I already quizzed Eibach about it, and the Shelby heim joint tie rod ends didn't even cross my mind as being the source. The funny thing..................Albino mentioned brake heat. Recently I upgraded to the 15" fronts but also had a right front caliper leak which wetted the pads. I exchanged the caliper under warranty and was also given a new set of pads. I replaced that right caliper and pads during the rotor upgrade. That new set of pads and rotor have recently been seasoned and the additional heat was at that corner of the car.................Now that heim joint is squeaking!! Thanks to both of you for helping me narrow down the squeak/creaking noise. It is kind of embarrassing to drop off or pick up your child from school and your Shelby is squeaking like an old car as you roll through the car line.............. If a person wanted to change to the Kevlar liners, where do you buy them? R Edited May 30, 2015 by Robert M Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ViperNC Posted May 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 30, 2015 Just got done. I decided to go with the Tri Flow that I had on hand and hit the tie rods and end links. Didn't have to disassemble, but just turned the wheels a few times while the front of the car was off the ground and then set it down. Noise gone immediately. Did a slow 5 mph drive on my street turning the wheel fully left and right repeatedly to make sure the penetrating oil did it's thing and parked it. Car needs a wash, but I think I'll hold off 24 hours just to make certain I get every bit of oil in there without indirectly washing some off. Hope is stays quiet for more than one day this time! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ViperNC Posted May 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 30, 2015 It is kind of embarrassing to drop off or pick up your child from school and your Shelby is squeaking like an old car as you roll through the car line.............. R You aren't kidding! I like getting looks for good reasons.... not annoying noises. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueovalkid Posted May 30, 2015 Report Share Posted May 30, 2015 This was recommended to me for this application http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/other-products/cleaners-and-protectants/mp-metal-protector/?code=AMPSC-EA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UKGT500 Posted November 16, 2015 Report Share Posted November 16, 2015 Just spotted this...a little late. I installed these on my 07 and they were fine for summer. After getting caught out in the rain a couple of times they started to groan. It was rust on the exposed surfaces. Tried a few lubricants including liquid ptfe type products. What actually happened was that whatever I used would last for less and less time: at first I got a couple of weeks out of an application, then a day, then a few minutes....and I tried to clean the joints as much as I could and work the lubricant in. I reckoned the joints were too finely machined for any lubricant to work its' way in. Unfortunately I had to replace them with stock items. Despite my car being lowered I didn't encounter any undue bump-steer issues going back to stock items so forgot about them until I saw this.... Malc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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