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Fuel Delivery Problem


mark.barton

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I just finished up a couple of track days at Hallett Motor Racing Circuit and a problem has raised its head again. The motor starts cutting out at around 3500 to 4000 RPM, primarily when accelerating on the straight after left hand turns. Depending on how hard I am pushing the throttle makes a difference in how violent the cutting out is. After the motor cuts out 2 or 3 times, I can then run the car up to redline (although it seems a bit sluggish). As the day progresses the issue gets worse (after ALL turns). Sunday, I tried it one more time in the morning and made 7 or 8 laps before it started in again. I cannot replicate the issue on the street no matter how hard I run the car.

 

I took the car to Autozone this morning and had them run the codes even though there is no check engine light and they found 2. First code is B1318 battery low voltage and the second is P0148 - Fuel Error - engine speed higher then expected. The ECM has detected that the FICMM input line is either shorted or open.

Probable cause: 1 - Open or short circuit condition. 2 - Poor electrical connection. 3 - Faulty FICM. 4 - ECM fault.

 

I replaced the fuel filter over the winter as was suggested, but that didn't cure the problem. Any ideas?

 

Mark

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G-Force

I drive with a G-Force racing helmet, but I don't see where that would make a difference. :lol:

 

I don't think g-forces are necessarily the problem. The issue occurs at all fuel tank levels. I orginally thought the problem was heat soak, because during the first session of the day, I could get 6 to 8 laps in before it started acting up. After that it just keeps getting worse through out the day to the point where it starts happening coming out of all corners.

 

Mark

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Maybe start going through and check your electrical connections - particularly the grounds - making sure that they are good and clean/solid. Usually something like this is tune related but, you have a OEM tune so, I don't know. Hopefully it's something simple and not too expensive.

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Maybe start going through and check your electrical connections - particularly the grounds - making sure that they are good and clean/solid. Usually something like this is tune related but, you have a OEM tune so, I don't know. Hopefully it's something simple and not too expensive.

Same here. I was really hoping that I didn't have to take it in to the dealer because most of the ones near me don't seem to know squat about the GT500 (hell, they can't even get the right oil put in the car without reminding them everytime), but that maybe my only choice :(

 

Mark

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  • 8 months later...

your gonna have to be able to watch your fuel pressure and exhaust sensors at the time of the glitch . . . . Record an event with a scan tool . . . or hook up a mechanical f/press guage . . .may have a pump (intank) failing or not gettin the proper voltage . . .Edited - Did ya ever get this handled ? ? ? ?

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your gonna have to be able to watch your fuel pressure and exhaust sensors at the time of the glitch . . . . Record an event with a scan tool . . . or hook up a mechanical f/press guage . . .may have a pump (intank) failing or not gettin the proper voltage . . .Edited - Did ya ever get this handled ? ? ? ?

Not yet. I bought a new fuel pump assembly from Tousley(now Auto Nation) Ford parts and was planning on installing it this weekend. The bad part is I won't really be able to test to see if this fixes the problem until spring.

 

I've been working through this problem methodically, fuel filter replaced, fuel lines inspected, now it's on to the fuel pump. Last thing is the Mass Air Flow sensor.

 

Mark

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Just in case someone runs across this post in the future with the same issue, I thought I would post a quick correction.

 

I realize after re-reading the original post, that I did not give the right information about the P0148 code. That code above seems to be for a diesel engine Ford truck. The actual code should read: P0148 - Fuel Delivery Error. The Ford service manual list the causes as 1 - Clogged fuel filter, 2 - Crimped or damaged fuel lines, 3 - Fuel pump, 4 - Mass Air Flow sensor. So, that's the way I'm going about it.

 

Mark

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The MAF seems unlikely but it is one of the cheapest parts. Remove it to see if it has accumulated any debris in the channel. You can clean them but have to be exceedingly careful. If successful you'll have saved the money, if not you tried and failed. A fuel filter is also a cheap fix, but I'd bet the culprit is fuel pump.

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The MAF seems unlikely but it is one of the cheapest parts. Remove it to see if it has accumulated any debris in the channel. You can clean them but have to be exceedingly careful. If successful you'll have saved the money, if not you tried and failed. A fuel filter is also a cheap fix, but I'd bet the culprit is fuel pump.

I agree that the MAF is unlikely, but you never know. As I said in a previous post, fuel filter has been replaced and fuel pump is sitting in my garage waiting to be being installed.

 

On cleaning the MAF, I thought I've read somewhere that you can clean them with the spray type carb cleaners, but never having done one, I thought I might ask if anyone has tried this.

 

Mark

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I agree that the MAF is unlikely, but you never know. As I said in a previous post, fuel filter has been replaced and fuel pump is sitting in my garage waiting to be being installed.

 

On cleaning the MAF, I thought I've read somewhere that you can clean them with the spray type carb cleaners, but never having done one, I thought I might ask if anyone has tried this.

 

Mark

Right material just watch spraying on the inside. Too much pressure flow is what breaks them.

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