twobjshelbys Posted March 16, 2015 Report Share Posted March 16, 2015 Interesting , but again getting back to our cars whats the advantage , why not just fire it up & let it idle./ The FGT has a priming cycle that bypasses ignition. There probably isn't a way to do it on normal cars now adays. We used to pull the distributor and run the oil pump with a drill... But you're right: Just start it up. In the end that's what he did... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shel-b001 Posted March 16, 2015 Report Share Posted March 16, 2015 The FGT has a priming cycle that bypasses ignition. There probably isn't a way to do it on normal cars now adays. We used to pull the distributor and run the oil pump with a drill... But you're right: Just start it up. In the end that's what he did... Ya pulled the distributor & used a drill on a `65 Mustang that had been sitting for a few years . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freakshow12 Posted March 17, 2015 Report Share Posted March 17, 2015 I got my info right from the warranty card on a brand new mmr 750 short block. They claim trying to pump up modular especially a fresh one with just the starter will not make adequate pressure and starve the cams. And they will void warranty. They say just start it. These guys build wicked engines so they would know I guess Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twobjshelbys Posted March 17, 2015 Report Share Posted March 17, 2015 Ya pulled the distributor & used a drill on a `65 Mustang that had been sitting for a few years . My regimen for engines that had sat for "a very long time", i.e., Years, was to first, without starting it, drain and fill the crank case and filter. Cold. Then start, and after the engine has warmed up and been run for a little bit (10s of miles or equivalent) change oil and filter again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shel-b001 Posted March 17, 2015 Report Share Posted March 17, 2015 My regimen for engines that had sat for "a very long time", i.e., Years, was to first, without starting it, drain and fill the crank case and filter. Cold. Then start, and after the engine has warmed up and been run for a little bit (10s of miles or equivalent) change oil and filter again. Ya we replaced all fluids & oil filter ran it for a a few miles & then re-checked all fluids again . I know the oil & filter didn `t get changed until he puts some miles on it , the car is still running today , tough old 289 . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twobjshelbys Posted March 17, 2015 Report Share Posted March 17, 2015 Ya we replaced all fluids & oil filter ran it for a a few miles & then re-checked all fluids again . I know the oil & filter didn `t get changed until he puts some miles on it , the car is still running today , tough old 289 . I do the double change. The first change gets rid hopefully of anything in the oil pan, e.g., water at the bottom (oil stays high). The second change gives whatever is left behind (I forgot to say that change is done hot, straight from driving to change) is still in suspension. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shel-b001 Posted March 17, 2015 Report Share Posted March 17, 2015 I do the double change. The first change gets rid hopefully of anything in the oil pan, e.g., water at the bottom (oil stays high). The second change gives whatever is left behind (I forgot to say that change is done hot, straight from driving to change) is still in suspension. I always drive my cars before changing the oil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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