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How to you check to make sure someone in Selling Real Shelby Wheels? Are the wheels have a specific # stamped on the back of the wheel for verification. A Shelby name on front and # of the wheel (like CS69) on back. Thanks.

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What style of wheel. A little more info would help.

Indeed. What are you looking at, or, want to confirm? Are you looking into an off stock size or dimension? An upgrade to another style? Both?

 

Meanwhile...the OEM wheel is known as the "Shelby Bullitt" style. There was no pattern or agreement in very early SGT builds, but as choices became available, white SGTs have polish/clear coated finish and black SGTs have a black/clear coated finish.

 

Unless otherwise clearly stated, you should presume that all OEM and aftermarket wheels are cast aluminum and sourced from China. OEM black Shelby Bullitt wheels are still available from Ford Racing under M-1007-S1885B. It is 18X8.5", with 50mm offset and 6.82" backspace. Center cap is the R/W/B tri-bar with the running horse. Despite these generous dimensions, this wheel will not allow for any aftermarket front brake kit with a 14.00" or larger rotor, or more than a 4 pot caliper design. SSBC may have a compact 6 pot front caliper available, but another issue arises when the rear brakes are upgraded over OEM size. The upgrade is just too fat and does not clear the spokes of the wheel design.

 

Otherwise, I have not seen anything posted here about what is genuine and what is not. Be aware, the "Shelby Bullitt" design is available in 17" and 20" sizes, and a 20" wheel does not always insure brake clearance, the main issue being offset and backspace. Also be aware that some wheels are offered "polished and clear coated" finishes, as well as "chrome". That being a consideration, you should know that chrome plating of aluminum is very difficult and quality is not cheap. What you get as "chrome" is inferior, and life span is rather brief at 3-5 years at best.

 

One offering from Shelby is the "KR" wheel, a forged and polished clear coat aluminum wheel from Alcoa. This a high quality and rare item, usually 1K each, but you may find them cheaper in sets where the seller is generous. They will fit every brake combination you can dream of, including dual caliper. BTW...There is a Shelby Wheel company, peek here?

 

http://www.carrollshelbywheels.com/mustang-wheels.html

 

I live in the snow belt and "LuLu" is in storage 3-4 months per year. Despite my care and attention, I am on my second set of chrome Shelby Bullitt wheels from American Racing due to pitting. Brake dust is very aggressive and will destroy a finish. High maintence is required to maintain appearance.

 

I still have the SGT OEM wheel in black on "Lucy", but I cannot get to her just now due to excessive snow in my area. Once I do, and it is critical for you, I'll pull a wheel and look for part numbers on the inside. I would expect some form of numbers/identification to be present on all wheels, the USDOT requires that but China does not. If absent, it's probably not such a good investment.

 

Sorry for the long read, but this is just me. I am trying to cut down.

 

Y'all be safe.

Edited by LuLu
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Just what I have been looking for. You have explained this very well. Am looking to upgrade my stock SGT wheels Chrome Bullets 18X9 to a set a staggered 20" 20x9 in front and 20x10 in the rear. I am looking at a set of CS66 Anthracite wheels.. I have not ever changed from a stock look but these wheels are very nice. A team Shelby member has them up for sale. I thought all Shelby Wheels would have like CS66 # stamped on back of the wheel to prove that it was a real Shelby Wheel and not a knock off. And I also believed that all Shelby wheels were make in the USA. There should be some kind of stamped numbers/id on each wheel, otherwise this is a China knockoff. Would you invest in a set of these wheels CS66 that have 5,000 miles on them? Thanks for the interesting article. Very informative information. Lynno

Edited by Lynno
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Just what I have been looking for. You have explained this very well. Am looking to upgrade my stock SGT wheels Chrome Bullets 18X9 to a set a staggered 20" 20x9 in front and 20x10 in the rear. I am looking at a set of CS66 Anthracite wheels.. I have not ever changed from a stock look but these wheels are very nice. A team Shelby member has them up for sale. I thought all Shelby Wheels would have like CS66 # stamped on back of the wheel to prove that it was a real Shelby Wheel and not a knock off. And I also believed that all Shelby wheels were make in the USA. There should be some kind of stamped numbers/id on each wheel, otherwise this is a China knockoff. Would you invest in a set of these wheels CS66 that have 5,000 miles on them? Thanks for the interesting article. Very informative information. Lynno

 

 

 

Ask to see the original bill of sale but unless you are talking about the Alcoas I am not sure it would be worth it to make knock-offs

 

http://www.carrollshelbywheels.com/mustang-wheels.html

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Just what I have been looking for. You have explained this very well. Am looking to upgrade my stock SGT wheels Chrome Bullets 18X9 to a set a staggered 20" 20x9 in front and 20x10 in the rear. I am looking at a set of CS66 Anthracite wheels.. I have not ever changed from a stock look but these wheels are very nice. A team Shelby member has them up for sale. I thought all Shelby Wheels would have like CS66 # stamped on back of the wheel to prove that it was a real Shelby Wheel and not a knock off. And I also believed that all Shelby wheels were make in the USA. There should be some kind of stamped numbers/id on each wheel, otherwise this is a China knockoff. Would you invest in a set of these wheels CS66 that have 5,000 miles on them? Thanks for the interesting article. Very informative information. Lynno

Wheels like the CS66 are produced by a Shelby Licensee and are/were manufactured in China.

 

Steve

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Just what I have been looking for. You have explained this very well. Am looking to upgrade my stock SGT wheels Chrome Bullets 18X9 to a set a staggered 20" 20x9 in front and 20x10 in the rear. I am looking at a set of CS66 Anthracite wheels.. I have not ever changed from a stock look but these wheels are very nice. A team Shelby member has them up for sale. I thought all Shelby Wheels would have like CS66 # stamped on back of the wheel to prove that it was a real Shelby Wheel and not a knock off. And I also believed that all Shelby wheels were make in the USA. There should be some kind of stamped numbers/id on each wheel, otherwise this is a China knockoff. Would you invest in a set of these wheels CS66 that have 5,000 miles on them? Thanks for the interesting article. Very informative information. Lynno

Thank you for your compliments, Lynno, I appreciate the feedback. I did not start out to write an "article", but sometimes it works out that way. I write like I talk, and this can be disappointing to some readers. I do not mean to sound like a school teacher, but it seems I cannot avoid that. When I post a reply to an issue, I am not speaking to just one person, but to all interested parties who may stop by. I gather together all I know about a topic, post it, and hope that defects will be pointed out respectfully. The absence of correction confirms my beliefs. You may trust that my advice is the best I have to offer, but I need to add a disclaimer. What I post is all I know on the topic, learned by my own "first hand" experience, your results may differ. I ask to be corrected when I am wrong, and I will update myself as necessary. That said;

 

The "mileage" you speak of, applies to tires alone. There is not a "wear-out" limitation I know of for wheels. Folks with classic cars often have original wheels, you're okay here.

 

I have seen the CS66 wheels and tires for sale, and I believe the seller to be trustworthy. If you find his price agreeable, remember shipping costs. That may be a deal breaker, but you can build upon his experience too. As I recall other facts, the wheels/tires are up for sale because they do not fit big brake kits, which the seller has just learned. This is in one of his posts here. So, if you have no plans to install a big brake kit of your own, and the price plus shipping is agreeable, the CS66 wheel is visually a very impressive appearance. I like that look a lot.

 

China. Wheels (and a whole lot of other stuff automotive) from China are not "knock-offs". Not anymore. Indeed, ALL wheels are produced in China, or other places off shore because it's been proven to be cheaper. My advice was/is "unless otherwise expressly stated", remains true now. Perhaps 20 years ago, the China export was a "knock-off" of the original product, such as the Cragar SS and Magnum 500 wheels of that era. However, China did it so well, and so much cheaper, China (or other off-shore countries) eventually came to produce the original product, rather than a knock-off. Please note that everything American Racing offers us, is "cast" aluminum, and made in China. "Cast Vs. Forged" may be another topic here someday, but untill then, know and note that there is a difference, a difference important to the racing crowd. The difference is strength, and "forged" means higher quality, stronger aluminum, and more expensive manfacturing process. Please be guided by this advice.

 

The exception to off-shore production is usually clearly expressed, its great advertising, and helps customers get over the 2x, maybe 3x the cost. Take the Shelby KR wheel as an example. Produced in the USA, in the tightly controlled environment of Alcoa, with high quality aluminum content. The wheels are very strong, a bonus to the racing circuit, and very durable with a lifespan beyond your immediate plans. Also hard to find in quantity and with variety in size. This justifies the 1K+ per wheel costs, but you should have a real need for these wheels, rather than just a strong wanting. They were designed and produced for a limited production automobile intended for enthusiastic use, but because of their costs, both the wheel AND the car, they are rarely seen on the track. My point is, is that when produced in America, it will cost you more, so, need it, not want it.

 

Yes, it may be cheaper for you to start fresh and shop for the wheel/tire combination you want. However, know that the wheels you pick are not forged, and will probably not fit over the larger brake kits many of us want. I race, so, what I pick is centered around that. If I did not, I would have a lot to chose from, with a difficult decision to make on style. The CS66 wheel is a great choice, wherever you get them. Put them on a show car, and you will win admiration. It a shame that greater admiration for the KR wheel could break your budget.

 

Lastly, yes. Yes, every wheel you consider should have some product 411 stamped inside. At least a USDOT number. If not, consider other sources for your wheel. I do not know precisely what Shelby, Ford Racing, or American Racing stamp, but they do stamp. BTW, it may be stamped on the inside of the wheel and require removing a pre-installed tire to be inspected. As another here suggests, the seller should have his receipt for his purchase.

 

Note that the FRPP catalogue lists all of their wheels that clear big brake kits, read the detail of the M-2300-S brake kit for this list. If you take notes and learn the specs of each BEFORE you purchase any wheel, you will be better prepared to make the right choice. It's "hard knock school " stuff, but you will have to learn it all just once. Note too, that aluminum comes in a wide variety of content blends, just like "mild steel vs. chrome moly" steel. Some blends have ferrous metals in the recipe and may pass an informal "magnet" test. This can fool you if you are not wise to it. Just google the content number, such as engine blocks made with "low pressure 319" or, "high strength 356-T6" grade content, and you will figure it out.

 

Carry on, gents, y'all be safe.

Edited by LuLu
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Thanks again LULU, I have one other question. Moving from stock 18" to 20" wheels and tires will this upset ABS, traction control and also, will the speedo be dead on? Will everything work in harmony? Also is the only reason moving to 20" wheels for looks. I could be satisfied with staggered 18 for that matter.

Edited by Lynno
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These wheel are great. I see the ID's on the back of the wheel stamped. This should be on all the wheels.

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Thanks again LULU, I have one other question. Moving from stock 18" to 20" wheels and tires will this upset ABS, traction control and also, will the speedo be dead on? Will everything work in harmony? Also is the only reason moving to 20" wheels for looks. I could be satisfied with staggered 18 for that matter.

Trying to be brief here.

 

The move from 18" to 20" should be painless, as it was in "the early days". But today, its all computers and the PCM counts tire rotations. The difference between 18" and 20" is significant. The PCM tolerates a 1" change, but no more.

 

If you have a hand-held tuner for the car, there should be a way of telling the PCM of your change. If not, your speedo will report incorrect mileage and lower speed while driving. 65 MPH shown on the speedo will be 70 MPH actual speed. Not only will you set off ABS and TC alarms, you may get the attention of the police. But, this is just changing from 18" to 20" size alone.

 

The deficiency, showing 65 MPH on the speedo when you are moving at 70 MPH, is a rare case. Most folks who change up, also change out, meaning upgrading other aspects of the tire at the same time. Example: From the stock 235/50/18 to 235/50/20 will cause a 5 MPH difference. Moving from the stock size to a 255/40/20 front, and 295/35/20 rear, correct this difference by changing the sidewall aspect. 65 MPH reads 65.7 MPH on the speedo. All alarms are avoided, and your speedo can be considered dead on.

 

Did I answer your question?

 

I got these wheels from Shelby, and presume they are the real McShelby: they have a little signature embedded on the outside of the wheel.

 

Scroll down to the last few pictures in this album.

Thanks, Frank, a great example of the stampings I have mentioned. Nice wheels, genuine Shelby, made in China. What we all should expect to see today.

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Just what I have been looking for. You have explained this very well. Am looking to upgrade my stock SGT wheels Chrome Bullets 18X9 to a set a staggered 20" 20x9 in front and 20x10 in the rear. I am looking at a set of CS66 Anthracite wheels.. I have not ever changed from a stock look but these wheels are very nice. A team Shelby member has them up for sale. I thought all Shelby Wheels would have like CS66 # stamped on back of the wheel to prove that it was a real Shelby Wheel and not a knock off. And I also believed that all Shelby wheels were make in the USA. There should be some kind of stamped numbers/id on each wheel, otherwise this is a China knockoff. Would you invest in a set of these wheels CS66 that have 5,000 miles on them? Thanks for the interesting article. Very informative information. Lynno

I have a set of CS69's that are 18 inch in Anthracite. They will fit big brakes. I bought them at the Shelby bash in 2009 at the charity auction they were having. One of the rims has a scrape on the side of it from a tire getting mounted on it. I had a price of $150.00 to get it repaired so it looks like new again, I still have the original boxes that came with them. I would sell all four for $700 plus shipping if you are interested. These were $350 for each wheel when new. They also come with the red center caps that are new.

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I got these wheels from Shelby, and presume they are the real McShelby: they have a little signature embedded on the outside of the wheel.

 

Scroll down to the last few pictures in this album.

 

Those wheels are from a Shelby license holder from Missouri.

 

Steve

 

They came to me by way of of the Shelby American eBaY connection and bidding process.

 

I wonder which of all the "Shelby Wheels" have an "are-from" of "Shelby" as opposed to an "are-from" of "a Shelby license holder".

 

16778129715_f9cba51a9e_b.jpg

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I have a set of CS69's that are 18 inch in Anthracite. They will fit big brakes. I bought them at the Shelby bash in 2009 at the charity auction they were having.

 

Go easy here, my friend. The CS69 wheel has been discontinued for some time. While they were available, the wheels accommodated "big brake kits" popular in those days. Rear brake upgrades were rare, often not accomplishing more than providing aggressive pads and SS braided lines. Today, the big brake kit has swelled, not only in popularity, but in size...Dimensions. Six pot calipers are a starting point, rotors are over 15", dual calipers, and so on. Rear wheel systems are now complete systems entirely on their own, with fitment concerns for many wheel sets that used to fit just fine. The CS69 accommodated bigger brakes in 2009, but today, bigger means bigger.

 

Those wheels are from a Shelby license holder from Missouri.

 

Steve

Frank...I think Steve is trying to say that the wheels in the pic you posted, are legit Shelby wheels, marketed through an authorized Shelby wheel distributor from MO. I didn't get this at first myself, and I may be wrong too. Perhaps Steve will stop back and add some clarity?

 

Carry on, gents, y'all be safe.

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Frank...I think Steve is trying to say that the wheels in the pic you posted, are legit Shelby wheels, marketed through an authorized Shelby wheel distributor from MO. I didn't get this at first myself, and I may be wrong too. Perhaps Steve will stop back and add some clarity?

 

Carry on, gents, y'all be safe.

Yes that is what I was trying to convey. The Shelby License holder who manufactures and sells these wheels, uses a business name of "Carroll Shelby Wheels" which many mistakenly think are manufactured by Carroll Shelby / Shelby American. The confusion comes from that Carroll did have a wheel company for about twenty years so when people hear the name Shelby Wheel Company they automatically think of Carroll & SAI.

 

Steve

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Yes that is what I was trying to convey. The Shelby License holder who manufactures and sells these wheels, uses a business name of "Carroll Shelby Wheels" which many mistakenly think are manufactured by Carroll Shelby / Shelby American. The confusion comes from that Carroll did have a wheel company for about twenty years so when people hear the name Shelby Wheel Company they automatically think of Carroll & SAI.

 

Steve

The CS66 wheels in question are mine. I originally purchased them from a licensed dealer of Carroll Shelby Wheels at the time. His name is Michael Morris and his family owned a car dealership in GA and helped many Shelby owners procure their cars back in the day. I think I have an original bill of sale some where if needed. I appreciate the endorsement from LuLu about my trustworthiness. I think many of you know me from one car event or another over the years. I take very good care of my cars and if I say they are in excellent shape, they are. I'll post some individual pictures of the wheels this weekend. I love the look of them on my White SGT, but since I put the 50th Anniv. Alcoas on they have just been sitting. So I guess time to sell to pay for other mods. Thanks all.

Dave

Edited by IASHELBYGT
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  • 3 weeks later...

Thanks to Dave I am now the owner to these great CS66 wheels. Dave took the time from many posts to solve all my questions. He did a very great job packing these wheels to make a 2000 miles to California. I am so pleased that these arrived in such great shape. I will post some pic soon as I get them mounted. Thanks to Dave and all the Team Shelby members that make this site the best site on the web. Lynno

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Thanks to Dave I am now the owner to these great CS66 wheels. Dave took the time from many posts to solve all my questions. He did a very great job packing these wheels to make a 2000 miles to California. I am so pleased that these arrived in such great shape. I will post some pic soon as I get them mounted. Thanks to Dave and all the Team Shelby members that make this site the best site on the web. Lynno

I do not know much about Lynno, but I know a little bit about Dave.

 

None of this surprises me.

 

Y'all be safe.

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