lht645 Posted October 9, 2014 Report Share Posted October 9, 2014 I know this has been discussed ad nausium on here, but I'm getting lost in the variety of opinions and need some sage advice. I have an 08 GT-500, all stock. I had pretty bad rear wheel hop when the back wheels broke free (burn oust) I installed the Shelby Anti-wheel hop brackets from the Shelby parts store. This fixed the wheel hop but created a rumbling/rattling in the rear during high acceleration. I'm pulling them off and going back to stock parts. My question is this. I drive the car on the street 1k-2k miles a year. I'd like to take it to the road track once or twice at Summit Point and maybe Auto-cross later. I'd like it to 1) keep it's rear wheels on the ground 2) not lower it significantly 3) not spend more than $500-$1000 fixing the suspention 4) not make it a beast to drive/ride in If anyone has a reasonable solution for me, I'd really appreciate it, I love the car and want to be able to drive it to it's potential. Thanks in advance Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shel-b001 Posted October 10, 2014 Report Share Posted October 10, 2014 You could start with an upper control arm with neoprene bushings , & if that dosen`t cure go with the lower control arms .. expect a harsher ride . Try the upper control arm first as some say that cured their wheel hop . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruce49 Posted October 10, 2014 Report Share Posted October 10, 2014 I went with BMR LCA's on my 09 and she never hopped after that. Simple and inexpensive. LATER, I popped for a DA UCA. Again, never hopped since the LCA install. GL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lht645 Posted October 10, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 10, 2014 Thanks Gents, that's the mind of info I was looking for. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msb64 Posted October 10, 2014 Report Share Posted October 10, 2014 I went through this years ago on my 08. Do the rear LCAs first, as that alone took care of my wheel hop alone. For the street go with good poly bushing ones, and if possible get the ones with grease fittings on them. I use prothane super grease on all my rear suspension joints, no noise and its sticky enough that it will not wash out. I went with some billet steeda ones, but Bobs, Shelby and BMR also makes some nice billet ones as well. I did do the UCA and UCA bracket later on, but it was more for beefing up the suspension before I stepped up the power a bunch. On mine the increase in road/gear/tire noise, vibration etc is detectable, but definitely nothing I would be worried about, even after doing the UCA as well. I did leave the oem rubber bushing in the top of the rear end housing though, which may have helped. The nicer billet units usually run from $250 - $350, and they are sharp looking items. Here is a photo of the Steedas in place on mine, much nicer looking than the stamped steel oem ones. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert M Posted October 10, 2014 Report Share Posted October 10, 2014 Thanks Gents, that's the mind of info I was looking for. The Roush anti-hop upper control arm is also an option. The Roush unit keeps the quite features of the oem rubber uca, but has a much smaller/tighter rubber bushing that minimizes the bouncing created by the stock mashmellow uca bushing. Below is a side-by-side comparison of the oem uca's 2007-2010, the Roush and the 2011-2014............. and the BMR 2011-2014 and the 2007-2010 below........... Me personally..............I installed the larger/longer 2011-2014 BMR uca/ucm in my 2008. Ford increased the hardware size and arm length on the 2011-uca for a reason and it does fit in the earlier cars, even the BMR unit. The oem 2011-2014 uca will also fit in the earlier cars, but it requires modification to the ucm. I did that also and had it in my 2008 for a few weeks before moving to the 2011-up BMR. "If" by chance you say.........."Yes I like the features of the Roush uca, tight bushing to minimize wheel hop and quietness of the oem rubber, but I don't like the flimsy oem ucm (Upper Control Mount) that is part of the Roush unit", there is an option for this also. Pictured below is the Drake ucm. It will allow attachment of the 2007-2010 uca in the rear holes (shorter arm) position OR with the front holes (longer arm) enlarged it will allow for the 2011-2014 uca. The much more stout Drake ucm may be discontinued now? I am not sure? The drawback to the Drake ucm and the oem 2007-2010 ucm is the smaller size of the bolt under the rear seat, Ford increased this bolt size for 2011-up as shown below. There is a reason why Ford went with a larger bolt........... R Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2007tungstenGT500 Posted October 11, 2014 Report Share Posted October 11, 2014 i know everybody has there opinions on this topic, but all i did was lower the car with the optional Super Snake Eibach suspension upgrade and added a set of lower control arm relocation brackets and my problem was SOLVED. you don't really even need the relocation brackets (i just did it to correct the geometry). just lowering the rear with a set of springs should help immensely, if not resolve it completely. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert M Posted October 11, 2014 Report Share Posted October 11, 2014 i know everybody has there opinions on this topic, but all i did was lower the car with the optional Super Snake Eibach suspension upgrade and added a set of lower control arm relocation brackets and my problem was SOLVED. you don't really even need the relocation brackets (i just did it to correct the geometry). just lowering the rear with a set of springs should help immensely, if not resolve it completely. ^^^I like those Razors!! I chose the Eibach coil over option when my car went through the Mod shop in early 2009. I never had any wheel hop with the Eibach, spin yes, hop no. I started to play with the rear suspension items after my car got back to Fla. just to see what differences they made to performance, both handling and acceleration. The main thing I noticed as the rubber mounting points were replaced with poly was that the car was staying straight under moderate/spinning acceleration instead of wandering. If a car is not lowered it definitely is "springy" in the rear. R Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert M Posted October 11, 2014 Report Share Posted October 11, 2014 Once I tightened up the rear mounting points on my lowered car with poly and the car went straight (but still spun freely) upon acceleration, then I installed the LCA relo brackets. When I did the relo's the IC (Instant Center) got back to the optimal place where it should be for added traction and the car now went straight and also gripped considerably better. The goal is to have the LCA's even or lower at the rear for best IC. Having the LCA's lower at the front will only cause traction issues and will be the end result when the car is lowered without relo brackets. The relo bracket project pictures............. This is where I started, lowered car, LCA's in the oem location. LCA attachment at the front lower than the attachment at the axle, terrible IC.............Negative for traction....... First hole down, lower control arms are basically even "0" angle.............Better IC and traction.............. Center hole in relo bracket, control arms are now lower at the rear, higher in the front. Even Better IC and traction.......... R Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lht645 Posted October 12, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 12, 2014 Thanks again everyone. I'm thinking I'll go with BMR uca's and billet lca's and poly bushings and 2011 uca brackets. You guys have been great! This was just what I was looking for. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert M Posted October 12, 2014 Report Share Posted October 12, 2014 Thanks again everyone. I'm thinking I'll go with BMR uca's and billet lca's and poly bushings and 2011 uca brackets. You guys have been great! This was just what I was looking for. If you call them in Tampa, talk to Kelly, he is very knowledgeable on these cars and can steer you the right direction. He was not familiar with the use of the longer 2011-up UCA/UCM on the earlier cars until he saw my post with pictures when I was doing that project. One person that I know of had to slightly enlarge the hole in the floor above their fuel tank to accept the 2011-up UCA mounting bracket, but there have been many other 2007-2010 GT500 owners including myself who have had no issues and it was a direct bolt-in. In addition to the 2011-up larger bushing and longer length, the hardware is so much larger on the 2011-up BMR and OEM Ford pieces. There is a very large difference in the through bolt itself, that attaches the UCA to the UCM. BMR 2011-up on bottom, 2007-2010 on top........... OEM Ford differences 2011-up left, 2007-2010 right........... R Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackcad55 Posted March 9, 2015 Report Share Posted March 9, 2015 As an older owner, I try and minimize my time lying on the shop floor, so I went with just replacing the stock LCA with a set of billet aluminum / urethane bushing replacement arms......4 bolts out / 4 bolts in = done in about an hour.....unfortunately, the wheel hop continues and now all the drivetrain noise comes up into the interior.....unacceptable, so it's back to the stock LCA and hope that when I change over to Michelin or Nitto later on, that will help cure the wheel hop!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mavisky Posted March 10, 2015 Report Share Posted March 10, 2015 Even when my car was on all stock suspension I never had wheel hop issues, but my car had Nitto NT555's on it when I bought it. They will spin, but they never hop. I have been holding off on lower control arms because of this. No point fixing something that's not broken. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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