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Performance Pkg Installed...now Horrible Wheel Hop/spin


cormy
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With a puller from Torch Red Texan and assistance from Doug_Gt350 we installed the 2.59 pulley, 90mm idler, cold air intake and the VMP tune.

 

Big change in power but now when I step on it, the rear wheels hop/spin and the RPM's shoot almost instantly to red line.

 

Its almost impossible to drive sporty since once I step on it, the wheels hop all over the place and it red lines. Even hard shifting from 3-4 or 4-5 it hops all over...

 

Did a review of posts and its leading me to either Lower Control Arms or Upper Control Arms replacement. ??

 

Almost un drivable in current state.... :shrug:

 

I should add I have the original Goodyears on the car..

Edited by cormy
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I had the same issue. You definately need to install lower, and most likely, upper control arms. Try the lowers first. If you install uppers, insure to install the upgraded bracket also. While you are at it, do the panhard bar and panhard bar brace also. I used the BMRs and they work excellent.

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+1 Install new lower control arms with high performance bushings and see if that works for you. For most, it will work. But if not, you'll need to replace the upper as well. It is the stock rubber bushings that is causing the wheelhop.

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With a puller from Torch Red Texan and assistance from Doug_Gt350 we installed the 2.59 pulley, 90mm idler, cold air intake and the VMP tune.

 

Big change in power but now when I step on it, the rear wheels hop/spin and the RPM's shoot almost instantly to red line.

 

Its almost impossible to drive sporty since once I step on it, the wheels hop all over the place and it red lines. Even hard shifting from 3-4 or 4-5 it hops all over...

 

Did a review of posts and its leading me to either Lower Control Arms or Upper Control Arms replacement. ??

 

Almost un drivable in current state.... :shrug:

 

I should add I have the original Goodyears on the car..

 

Welcome to my world. You just added enough torque to over power the rear tires. The hop is a side effect of your wheels spinning (grip-loose-grip-loose-repeat).

Save yourself some time, buy a Roush anti-hop third link (aka UCA) and be done with it.

2005-2010: http://www.roushperformance.com/parts/3rd-Link-Wheel-Hop-Reduction-Kit-for-Mustang-2005-2010.html

2011-2014: http://www.roushperformance.com/parts/3rd-Link-Wheel-Hop-Reduction-Kit-for-Mustang-2011-2012.html

 

It is designed to remedy exactly what you are describing.

If you get real serious about traction, the tires will be the first thing that need to go. Then add control arm relocation brackets.

A decent set of lower control arms with poly bushings will help with traction too but unless you've tested the rubber bushings for softness, you may be wasting your money.

 

 

Phill

Edited by 2010KonaBlueGT
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Ditch the horrible goodyears and look at the springs and shocks. My car is on KR suspension and NItto NT555's and I have never experienced wheelhop once, even in the rain. It will spin for sure, but there is no hop whatsoever.

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I do have the KR suspension on the car.

 

Talked to the guys at VMP who told me to back the timing off by 2 degrees, which did seem to calm it down a bit.

 

They also suggested lower control arms.

 

Thinking about it..this may be dumb but some of my "wheel spin" may be the increased sound of the supercharger whine.. :blush:

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Lower control arms can be had for around the $150 range and are a pretty decent upgrade, but our GT500's already come with slightly improved LCA's vs the standard GT's. Even stock I never experienced wheel hop with my car and I think that's because I bought it with the Nitto NT555's. Now I've never taken it to the strip either, but on the street it either spins a lot, spins a little, or hooks and books depending on the gear and how judicious I am with the throttle. I'd strongly suggest ditching the goodyears.

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LCAs alone got rid of the wheel hop on mine, but better tires will definitely help with the wheel spin.

Its all relative to the power that you are dialing in though.

My Nitto 555Rs still go up in smoke on mine if I am too quick on the throttle, even when I drop them down to 15 lbs at the strip.

If you have to choose between the 2 issues to start with, you are better off to tackle the wheel hop issue first.

Wheel spin is more of a driver controllable issue, where as excessive wheel hop can be eratic and potentially damaging.

If you are still running 3.31s in the rear, that probably doesn't help the situation either.

If the KR suspension stuff lowers your back end, then you should install LCA relocation brackets to correct the LCA geometry too.

You usually end up dropping the rear part of the LCAs a setting or 2 below stock.

Keep in mind that the softer performance tires will wear a lot faster too, depending on how hard you work them.

I've gone through a pair of drag radials in one season, and could easily have finished off another set if I ran the car at the track more.

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+1 on relo brackets if your LCA's are angled up from the frame to the rear axle. My springs did not lower the car much and my LCA's are almost level = no wheel hop.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Metco upper and lower rear control arms cured my wheel hop. Adding the BMR subframe connectors, Swarr rear end girdle, 3 73 gears, and a rear strut bar ( worth every Penney) helped keep everything locked and in place when the HP and TQ was increased.

Mark

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