bmezz Posted July 2, 2014 Report Share Posted July 2, 2014 Looking for advice on upcoming mods. Installing 4:10 gears on my stock 5spd 2007 Shelby GT. I have $1500 to spend on parts,with the end game of installing a Whipple so mods should take that into account. Street driven, occasional 1/4 miles and a little track for fun. What would be your top 5 mods. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sgt1864 Posted July 2, 2014 Report Share Posted July 2, 2014 I just did the rear end of my Shelby this winter. I installed Whiteline Lower relocation brackets, bullit lower arms, BMR adj panhard bar and Ford racing Finn aluminum rear cover. I also painted the rear with POR 15, looks like powder coat now. Car hooks up real well now and handles a lot better, no change to ride. The rear was out 7/8 side to side from lowering and the adj panhard bar brought that back to 0. Still have to move the bump stops to center of frame. Total cost was $600, no labor did myself, money well spent IMO. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmn444 Posted July 2, 2014 Report Share Posted July 2, 2014 tires, tires, tires. all i did to the rear was the adj panhard, i don't dragrace though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
39Mustang Posted July 2, 2014 Report Share Posted July 2, 2014 Looking for advice on upcoming mods. Installing 4:10 gears on my stock 5spd 2007 Shelby GT. I have $1500 to spend on parts,with the end game of installing a Whipple so mods should take that into account. Street driven, occasional 1/4 miles and a little track for fun. What would be your top 5 mods. NOT the 4.10 gears you will kill your high speed highway driving and if anyone else says otherwise they have no idea what they're talking about Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
39Mustang Posted July 2, 2014 Report Share Posted July 2, 2014 Most important thing is you can have all the horsepower in the world but if you can't get it to handle correctly that HP is useless. Any quality shop or suspension company will and should tell you its never a good idea to mix and match parts. Some phases of the suspension can be done at different times but you will save money in the long run to get it done right the first time around to avoid paying labor multiple times unless you are a mechanic Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmn444 Posted July 2, 2014 Report Share Posted July 2, 2014 I agree, with the whipple 3.55's feel "right" to me, you have to pedal the car to get it to hook up good anyway.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2007_Shelby_GT Posted July 2, 2014 Report Share Posted July 2, 2014 On the cheaper side, go with the adjustable panhard bar and brace, but the watts link is where you really want to be! I agree with the better wheels/tires, lower/upper control arms, and brakes mentioned above. Good rubber is essential and those brakes, at minimum, you should upgrade the pads. I'd skip the 4.10s, maybe 3.73 or 3.91, but not the 4.10s! You might reconsider your budget upwards a bit if at all possible to $2000 - there's always little items that are often forgotten like bushings, stainless brake lines, shocks/struts, etc. It's been a slow process for me and I'm really just getting to some decent suspension pieces - like the watts link! I, (and others), will often sell off old equipment as we upgrade - check the classified forum often for deals on panhard bars, brakes, rotors, and such - that can save a ton of money! Sam Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShelbyDW Posted July 2, 2014 Report Share Posted July 2, 2014 I agree, with the whipple 3.55's feel "right" to me, you have to pedal the car to get it to hook up good anyway.... Agree, with the whipple and 4.10's, 1st gear would be pretty useless. The 3.55's seem to be a good balance and the whipple will take care of the rest. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drzeeba Posted July 2, 2014 Report Share Posted July 2, 2014 3.73 is standard with the SC package SAI provides. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmn444 Posted July 2, 2014 Report Share Posted July 2, 2014 3.73 is standard with the SC package SAI provides. Doesn't mean it makes any sense... realistically, a 3.55 to 3.73 change would only make fiscal sense if you were gearing for a certain track or even drag racing IF that gear put you at redline when crossing the 1/4 mile mark. It won't help you on the street unless you are running REALLY sticky tires. They also used to "package" the gt/sc upgrade with slotted rotors and different pads, but that wasn't really the best upgrade for the car either.... Do they still offer the gt/sc for 07/08 cars? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmezz Posted July 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 3, 2014 Looking for advice on upcoming mods. Installing 4:10 gears on my stock 5spd 2007 Shelby GT. I have $1500 to spend on parts,with the end game of installing a Whipple so mods should take that into account. Street driven, occasional 1/4 miles and a little track for fun. What would be your top 5 mods. Well I was away for a few days, I read all the reply's and I must say confusion is my first reaction there seems to be a pro and con for everything.As far as the 4:10's go I've decided to install them the Whipple is a long way done the road,I have been in a few Mustangs with 4:10's and it pulls in every gear. What I have decided on so far is: #1Shelby Rear Lower Control Arms #2Shelby Anti-Wheel Hop Rear Control Arm Relocation Brackets - Red Powdercoated #3Shelby Rear Upper Control Arm Red Powdercoated #4Shelby Rear Upper Control Arm Mount - Red Powdercoated Still have room in budget for more mods..Suggestions?? As far as tires what would you recommend for all around use? (track, street and strip) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2007_Shelby_GT Posted July 3, 2014 Report Share Posted July 3, 2014 Our beloved Jer highly recommended the 3.73 gears with a supercharger as a better combo. (His words were that the 3.73s offered better acceleration off the corners.) Now, I'd say there's no silver bullet here based on what your asking the car to do - street, drag, road course - so my choice would be something between the 3.55 and 4.10 ratios as a compromise, hence my suggestion of the 3.73 or 3.90. Of course, if you really want selection, drop in a quick-change rear end and choose the gears for whatever the day's driving task will be! Oops, there goes the budget! Tires? Get ready for more choices! Sam Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jer Posted July 3, 2014 Report Share Posted July 3, 2014 Our beloved Jer highly recommended the 3.73 gears with a supercharger as a better combo. (His words were that the 3.73s offered better acceleration off the corners.) Now, I'd say there's no silver bullet here based on what your asking the car to do - street, drag, road course - so my choice would be something between the 3.55 and 4.10 ratios as a compromise, hence my suggestion of the 3.73 or 3.90. Of course, if you really want selection, drop in a quick-change rear end and choose the gears for whatever the day's driving task will be! Oops, there goes the budget! Tires? Get ready for more choices! Sam The 3.73 is the best "correct" ratio for a car that sees city AND highway driving. Track, too. 4.10 with a Whipple is simply too shallow, especially on the highway, and the 3.55 means you have to leave the car in 4th when at 35 MPH in the city, or it lugs and drones. That being said, the difference between 3.55 and 3.73 with a Whipple is subtle when speaking of acceleration - the Whipple will pull the car along mighty fine with either set. Jer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ledfoot73 Posted July 3, 2014 Report Share Posted July 3, 2014 If the Whipple is a long way off I think you are on the right track, if it's around the corner I would probably think 3:73. I've done the upper control arm, brackets, lower control arms, CHI lower control arm relocation brackets, 4:10's and Michelin Pilot Super Sports. The Pilot Super Sports seem to work a lot better at Hallet this year than my Nitto NT-05's I ran last year, they did resurface the track though. The 4:10's are perfect at Hallet Naturally aspirated and I sure wouldn't trade them for 3:73's for the track or street, they are great on the highway, it's not like the old days without overdrive transmissions. If you have an automatic the overdrive isn't as tall as the standard and I believe your cruise rpms at highway speed is about the same with an auto and a 3:73 as a standard is with a 4:10. That being said, if the Whipple is near I would probably go 3:73 due to traction issues and the fact the gear changes would be really quick. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmezz Posted July 4, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 4, 2014 Thanks guys .... Going with the 4:10's The Whipple is something that is way down the road. Also decided on: Shelby Rear Lower Control Arms Shelby Anti-Wheel Hop Rear Control Arm Relocation Brackets - Red Powdercoated Shelby Rear Upper Control Arm Red Powdercoated Shelby Rear Upper Control Arm Mount - Red Powdercoated Shelby Rear Shock Tower Brace 2005-2014 - Powdercoated Silver( just because I like the look) Thanks for all the advice and responses it is greatly appreciated,but that still leaves me $500 to spend???? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jer Posted July 4, 2014 Report Share Posted July 4, 2014 Thanks guys .... Going with the 4:10's The Whipple is something that is way down the road. Also decided on: Shelby Rear Lower Control Arms Shelby Anti-Wheel Hop Rear Control Arm Relocation Brackets - Red Powdercoated Shelby Rear Upper Control Arm Red Powdercoated Shelby Rear Upper Control Arm Mount - Red Powdercoated Shelby Rear Shock Tower Brace 2005-2014 - Powdercoated Silver( just because I like the look) Thanks for all the advice and responses it is greatly appreciated,but that still leaves me $500 to spend???? All good stuff, and yes, 4.10 will be great on an N/A car. Add a Watts link. Jer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmezz Posted July 4, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 4, 2014 Are SGT Rear Upper and lower Control Arms an upgrade or standard mustang GT product. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jer Posted July 4, 2014 Report Share Posted July 4, 2014 Stock GT. They were not upgraded during SGT conversion. Just lowering springs, shocks and struts, and sway bars. Jer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
REDTAIL Posted July 4, 2014 Report Share Posted July 4, 2014 I'm getting ready to install the whiteline watts link on my car. Got to love them sponsors Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jer Posted July 4, 2014 Report Share Posted July 4, 2014 I'm getting ready to install the whiteline watts link on my car. Got to love them sponsors The Fays2 adds a true crossmember, triangulating the chassis stresses. I like it WAY more than any system that uses the diff as a center mounting point. Whiteline make the only somewhat-acceptable diff-mount Watts, in my opinion, and only because of all the bracing. Still, check the diff bolts' torque regularly on it... And, I guess ya can't beat the price if you got it as a free sponsor item! Jer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
REDTAIL Posted July 4, 2014 Report Share Posted July 4, 2014 Yup they used my Roush as a test mule for it before they released it then gave a the set up new in the box Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank S Posted July 5, 2014 Report Share Posted July 5, 2014 The guy is going for 4.10s. Let him be. He's made up his mind. Even on my NA 2009 GT/CS, 3.73s shortened first gear so that I eventually treated the five-speed manual as a four-speed, starting out in second except in competition. In the current car, '13 5.0 Brembo six-speed manual, ordered with 3.73s, it has become a five-speed on the street. Wear-and-tear using first is just wasteful, especially with the tires on the ground now, which are 26.6 inches tall. I think I'll go for 27.4 in the next set of rears, to see if I can get back some of that first gear utility. What size tire do you suppose the OP will go for? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmn444 Posted July 5, 2014 Report Share Posted July 5, 2014 I'm still trying to figure out why staying in 4th gear at 35 mph is bad lol... Oh well to each their own! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
revan Posted July 6, 2014 Report Share Posted July 6, 2014 Nothing wrong with 4th at 35mph, so long as it doesn't put you below idle - at that point bucking and stalling will ensue. I have an auto SGT though so I can't speak to the gear limits of the car. I regularly cruise around town in my 08 GT500 in 6th to get a little better mileage, but it has a TVS blower pulling it along so not a fair comparison :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
revan Posted July 6, 2014 Report Share Posted July 6, 2014 As far as tires go, I got some 9" razor wheels (from the Shelby CS8) which will be going on the car soon (the stock wheels are 8.5"). I'll be moving over to 255/45/18 tires on those (as opposed to the stock 235/55/18 tires). A little extra rubber should add a small amount of traction (even in my auto I have to work not to spin it in 1st gear).The consensus on multiple shelby forums seems to be that nothing beats the michelin pilot super sports (other than track only tires obviously). The only downside - they can be expensive depending on the tires size. I've had multiple good experiences with the Continental Extremecontact DWS on my GT500 - treadwear rating of 540 and they still manage to hook up my 650HP in all gears (except a bit in 1st). It's a good performance tire that will work in the winter (if that's a concern for you), won't wear out super fast, and isn't the most expensive option out there. I'm sure others will have good feedback on other brands of tires, so ill be curious to see what else works really well. I tend to find a good tire and stick with it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
revan Posted July 6, 2014 Report Share Posted July 6, 2014 As others have already mentioned - suspension improvements are key here. The FR handling kit that Shelby installed on the SGT did amazing things in the handling department for the GT, but there are some areas you can improve. What i've done so far:- LCA's. They didn't replace the stock control arms, which are pretty flimsy. I went with billet LCA's with poly bushings on both sides, from BMR suspension. much more solid now on takeoff (the wheels just dig in instantly)- relocation brackets - admittedly these are more of a concern to a car being setup for optimal dragstrip launches (as opposed to an SGT which is designed for cornering) but can still be of help. Reason being - the 1" drop from the FR suspension kit changed the suspension geometry of the LCA's so they're not in their optimal position. Again I used the BMR relocation brackets with the LCA's. They have 3 positions to choose from. The lowest one is more optimal for dragstrip launching so I wouldn't use that one. I ended up using the second hole cause I couldn't get the LCA to fit in the top hole (it was too tight). The 2nd hole seemed to put the LCA back fairly close to the original angle it was supposed to be at (though others more knowledgeable about suspensions may be able to confirm)- watts-link - Admittedly these costs several times more than an adjustable panhard bar, but if you can swing the extra cost I HIGHLY recommend it. I put the Fays2 unit on my GT500 and it's nothing short of amazing just how much it calmed down the rear end of the car! Before it was always very twitchy over rough roads, but now it's usually a non-event. Amazing how well the rear suspension works when both sides are allowed to move up and down parallel to each other (a panhard bar creates more of an arc than true up down motion). As Jer mentioned, the fays2 is great and is mounted via a new crossmember rather than diff mounted. I love this one and will be adding one to my SGT very soon.I don't plan on doing the UCA since the stocker doesn't seem to be a weak link in my cornering ability at this point, but im sure there are some merits to it for those who have done it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jer Posted July 6, 2014 Report Share Posted July 6, 2014 +1 on all 3 of Van's posts... Jer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
revan Posted July 6, 2014 Report Share Posted July 6, 2014 +1 on all 3 of Van's posts... Jer Thanks Jer. Only problem - I'm not THE Van@RevanRacing (though everything I know about these cars I learned from him and a few others in the community) No worries, not the first time people have confused us. Im willing to change my screename if you're willing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jer Posted July 6, 2014 Report Share Posted July 6, 2014 Thanks Jer. Only problem - I'm not THE Van@RevanRacing (though everything I know about these cars I learned from him and a few others in the community) No worries, not the first time people have confused us. Im willing to change my screename if you're willing. Ha… sorry, I glanced quickly - my bad! Great advice, though! As for changing your name, you'd have to contact Tim Hill at Shelby for that. Jer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrewnagle1964 Posted July 7, 2014 Report Share Posted July 7, 2014 All good stuff, and yes, ......Add a Watts link. Jer This ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ http://www.teamshelby.com/forums/index.php/topic/84795-rear-end-mods/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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