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Two Piece Verse One Piece Drive Shaft


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I am considering a one piece drive shaft for my relatively stock 2007 Shelby GT-500. Drive train and engine are totally stock. I hear all kinds of bad mouthing of Ford for going with the two piece on these cars. My question would be why would Ford spend the extra money on the two piece if the one piece would be better. I would like a Ford engineer or someone with intimate knowledge of these cars to chime in. Also, if the one piece is so much better, why didn't they use them on the GT-500KRs?

 

At first blush intuition would tell you the one piece would be better due to less rotating mass and less pieces to break. But after reading posts on high speed vibration I am a little gun shy.

 

So, for a car that is run fairly hard on the streets, will do some high speed laps once in awhile at Circuit of The Americas in Austin and Texas World Speedway, and no drag racing, should I go with the one piece or two piece drive shaft?

 

Thank you for the input in advance. This forum is great. I have learned so much. I was a '60s muscle car guy for 40 years, these new muscle cars are a whole new world. My wife hated my Big Block Chevelles and Corvettes. She loves the Shelby.

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Get the 1 piece shaft. It cleaned up all sorts of driveline issues my car was experiencing. Not to mention the two piece shaft is heavy.

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I am considering a one piece drive shaft for my relatively stock 2007 Shelby GT-500. Drive train and engine are totally stock. I hear all kinds of bad mouthing of Ford for going with the two piece on these cars. My question would be why would Ford spend the extra money on the two piece if the one piece would be better. I would like a Ford engineer or someone with intimate knowledge of these cars to chime in. Also, if the one piece is so much better, why didn't they use them on the GT-500KRs?

 

At first blush intuition would tell you the one piece would be better due to less rotating mass and less pieces to break. But after reading posts on high speed vibration I am a little gun shy.

 

So, for a car that is run fairly hard on the streets, will do some high speed laps once in awhile at Circuit of The Americas in Austin and Texas World Speedway, and no drag racing, should I go with the one piece or two piece drive shaft?

 

Thank you for the input in advance. This forum is great. I have learned so much. I was a '60s muscle car guy for 40 years, these new muscle cars are a whole new world. My wife hated my Big Block Chevelles and Corvettes. She loves the Shelby.

+1

What drive line issues? Mine runs perfect with the 2 piece but nervous about going to the dragstrip with new drag radials and line loc. I have heard some complain about vibration at higher speeds with the 1 piece. If that is true then I would rather leave the stock 2 piece in. Can others chime in for us please?

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I have talked to Ford Engineers, and people at Ford Racing, as well as people at the Shelby Mod shop. Pretty much everyone agrees that one of the weakest links in the GT500's besides the clutch is the drive shaft. The two piece is problematic especially in high HP applications. Now you may hear people say that they use the two piece shafts in the Super Snakes, however when people are ordering a Super Snake package, they are highly recomended to upgrade the drive shaft to a 1pc shaft. I daily drive my car and have the Dynotech shaft, not only is it a work of art. It fits perfectly, and was a breeze to install, 0 noise issues in both summer and winter. Works great, highly recomend it and when you go to put it on mines well put a loop on at same time. Safety is key plus loops are cheap.

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I'm using the '13/'14 GT500 cf ds as well as a new output shaft flange from a forum member. Not only is the new shaft lighter and stronger, I don't have to be concerned with pinion angle as it utilizes cv joints at both ends. An added bonus is if it were to fail it won't destroy the undercarriage as it will just turn into fibers. First thing I noticed after the install is that the driveline seems tighter and smoother. It's one of the best mods I've done.

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I'm using the '13/'14 GT500 cf ds as well as a new output shaft flange from a forum member. Not only is the new shaft lighter and stronger, I don't have to be concerned with pinion angle as it utilizes cv joints at both ends. An added bonus is if it were to fail it won't destroy the undercarriage as it will just turn into fibers. First thing I noticed after the install is that the driveline seems tighter and smoother. It's one of the best mods I've done.

Same thing here with the PST carbon shaft. The two piece shaft is a clunky piece of crap derived from an F150. When I got rid of it, all the complaints I had about driveline went away. The car takes off smoothly from a dead stop, accelerates better, there is less rotational mass, etc. I've had the car at high speed and felt no vibration. Money well spent.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Dude go to svtperformance first page on gt500 forum, a us had 700 hp and twisted the stock shaft at both ends. Only a matter of time, great pictures. Once you read and see pictures, you'll have no doubt to get a 1 pc

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Same thing here with the PST carbon shaft. The two piece shaft is a clunky piece of crap derived from an F150. When I got rid of it, all the complaints I had about driveline went away. The car takes off smoothly from a dead stop, accelerates better, there is less rotational mass, etc. I've had the car at high speed and felt no vibration. Money well spent.

 

Same here.

 

I've had my PST CF 1-pc to almost 183 MPH without ANY problem or vibes.

 

I'd NEVER think of doing that with a OEM 2-pc.

 

 

Phill

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Same here.

 

I've had my PST CF 1-pc to almost 183 MPH without ANY problem or vibes.

 

I'd NEVER think of doing that with a OEM 2-pc.

 

 

Phill

Phill, are there any adjustments that need to be made or is it just bolt in and go? Thanks.
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Phill, are there any adjustments that need to be made or is it just bolt in and go? Thanks.

 

Other than removing the entire OEM driveline, including the center carrier, it's plug-n-play.

 

6 bolts on the rear CV, 4 on the front and the two center carrier nuts to remove the OEM. 6 rear then 4 front to install and you're done.

 

I did have a problem with my original PST CF shaft (the bond broke on the front joint) but they have a LIFETIME gauranty and they sent me a brand new one to replace the bad one with. One other guy I know had the same problem and he got a new one too. PST said they have since changed the bonding agent (glue) so that shouldn't be a problem any longer. Mine has held up through quite a bit already.

 

 

Phill

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Other than removing the entire OEM driveline, including the center carrier, it's plug-n-play.

 

6 bolts on the rear CV, 4 on the front and the two center carrier nuts to remove the OEM. 6 rear then 4 front to install and you're done.

 

I did have a problem with my original PST CF shaft (the bond broke on the front joint) but they have a LIFETIME gauranty and they sent me a brand new one to replace the bad one with. One other guy I know had the same problem and he got a new one too. PST said they have since changed the bonding agent (glue) so that shouldn't be a problem any longer. Mine has held up through quite a bit already.

 

 

Phill

Agree with Phill. I installed mine myself and it was fairly easy. Don't forget the red locktight on your bolts.

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Other than removing the entire OEM driveline, including the center carrier, it's plug-n-play.

 

6 bolts on the rear CV, 4 on the front and the two center carrier nuts to remove the OEM. 6 rear then 4 front to install and you're done.

 

I did have a problem with my original PST CF shaft (the bond broke on the front joint) but they have a LIFETIME gauranty and they sent me a brand new one to replace the bad one with. One other guy I know had the same problem and he got a new one too. PST said they have since changed the bonding agent (glue) so that shouldn't be a problem any longer. Mine has held up through quite a bit already.

 

 

Phill

 

 

Agree with Phill. I installed mine myself and it was fairly easy. Don't forget the red locktight on your bolts.

 

Ok sounds good. Red loctite, check. Thank you guys.

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  • 2 weeks later...

A properly done one piece can make for quite an improvement over the OEM two piece. I've been running the factory '13/'14 CF shaft on my '09 since March of 2013. Easily one of the best mods I've done to date.

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I have a one piece Dynotech driveshaft, I do not have a loop installed on it. The only issue I have is if I am on a road that has dips on it and I push it to WOT and just happen to be hitting a dip at the same time, the driveshaft will hit the bottom of the car and will make a LOUD clunk. The noise totally freaked me out the first couple times it happened, now I know what is causing it so I make sure I do not step on the gas if there are any bumps in the road.

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If that is the case, then there should be some signs of abrasion on the driveshaft. Make sure that it is not too excessive, where it could create a weak spot on the driveshaft itself. If you can get a good look at it on a hoist or similar, it should be obvious. I would be especially worried about that on a carbon fiber unit. I'd be curious to know where it might be making contact under those conditions. I am also running the Dynotech driveshaft with my car at stock ride height, just wondering if you might have lowered yours and that might be contributing to your issue.

 

The M-5478-CJ Cobra Jet Driveshaft Safety Loop looks like a good one to run and cheap insurance, its on my list.

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I have talked to Ford Engineers, and people at Ford Racing, as well as people at the Shelby Mod shop. Pretty much everyone agrees that one of the weakest links in the GT500's besides the clutch is the drive shaft. The two piece is problematic especially in high HP applications. Now you may hear people say that they use the two piece shafts in the Super Snakes, however when people are ordering a Super Snake package, they are highly recomended to upgrade the drive shaft to a 1pc shaft. I daily drive my car and have the Dynotech shaft, not only is it a work of art. It fits perfectly, and was a breeze to install, 0 noise issues in both summer and winter. Works great, highly recomend it and when you go to put it on mines well put a loop on at same time. Safety is key plus loops are cheap.

 

 

 

 

+1 on this for sure. Highly recommend the Dynotech 1 piece and throwing the loop on at the same time. I was concerned about vibration issues but haven't had a single problem.

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If that is the case, then there should be some signs of abrasion on the driveshaft. Make sure that it is not too excessive, where it could create a weak spot on the driveshaft itself. If you can get a good look at it on a hoist or similar, it should be obvious. I would be especially worried about that on a carbon fiber unit. I'd be curious to know where it might be making contact under those conditions. I am also running the Dynotech driveshaft with my car at stock ride height, just wondering if you might have lowered yours and that might be contributing to your issue.

 

The M-5478-CJ Cobra Jet Driveshaft Safety Loop looks like a good one to run and cheap insurance, its on my list.

My car is a SGT so it does have the Ford racing suspension in it and its lowered. It only rubs when I hit a bump in the road and have it at wide open throttle. If the road is flat it does not rub. Yes you can see marks on the shaft and the bottom of the SGT. I do have a lift next time I have it up on the lift I will take a photo of it.

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My Coast Driveline One Piece 1000HP AL driveshaft really improved the way the car feels on launch and on hard shifts. Let's just say it pulls much better now but I have an oscillation now at 2k rpm. It sounds like ringing Aluminum but it feels so much better that I live with it. I am told the carbon fiber drive shafts do not have this minor problem. So be prepared for a little more NVH... but it is worth it!

 

MSB Mustang / Mark

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