roblectric Posted June 22, 2014 Report Share Posted June 22, 2014 Decided in mid April to pull the cam covers and get them powdercoated. This process took about 6 weeks due to problems with the vinyl graphics I wanted. That being said, I had the battery out of the car and on a tender for the six week period. With the powder job finally finished to my satisfaction, I proceeded with the install. Everything went smoothly and no leaks. Within a 1/4 mile of the test drive I got a wrench Icon and check engine light along with a noticeable loss of power. My scanner displayed two codes, P0345 and P0349.Camshaft position sensor A circuit malfubction (bank 2) and camshaft position sensor A circuit intermittent (bank 2). First thought was maybe one of the connectors wasn't seated well so I unplugged and reinserted both sensor pugs and cleared the codes. Second test drive and all is well. No check engine light and power is restored. Jump to the following weekend. Head out for a cruise and within a mile I get the same dash lights and loss of power. I pull over and unplug and reinsert the connectors and the wrench light goes away but the check engine light stays on and power is restored. Fifteen miles to the cruise in and back home with no further problems. Check the codes and P0345 and P0349 are back. My internet search tells me this can be a difficult malfunction to pinpoint. Any suggestions ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
39Mustang Posted June 23, 2014 Report Share Posted June 23, 2014 Do you have an Automatic or Manual? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roblectric Posted June 23, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 23, 2014 Manual Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leroy Posted June 25, 2014 Report Share Posted June 25, 2014 Have seen this issue on a few 4.6 engines. make sure you are full of oil, and then check the wiring at the back of the connector that plugs into to cam sensor on the drivers side timing cover. Have seen the wiring work loose and the terminals do not make good contact. If that does not do the trick swap the sensor with the one on the passenger timing cover ( easy 8mm single bolt to see if it moves) If light comes on after the change with a p0340 the sensor would be suspect. If the p0345 remains the issue is with the wiring or RF issues. The most common issue is a faulty alternator for RF concerns. I would clear codes and drive around a while with alt disconnected to see if the cam codes come back, if not the alt would be the issue. The Ford IDS can diag Alt ripple patterns in a flash to rule out the Alt as the issue or confirm its failure. Hope this helps Ted Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roblectric Posted June 25, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 25, 2014 Thanks Ted! Found the cam sensor unplugged. That should alleviate my problem. Must have unplugged it to get additional slack in the harness while removing the covers. Sucks to get old and forget. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roblectric Posted July 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 8, 2014 Unfortunately, the unplugged cam sensor did not solve my problem. Removed the alternator and had it tested. It passed. I tested the diodes with my meter and the test passed. Now getting a rough idle intermittently with the same codes. Unplugged bank 2 VCT solenoid and the rough idle went away. Ordered a new solenoid. I hate throwing money at a problem I am not 100% sure of the fix. VCT solenoid should be here before the weekend. Keeping my fingers crossed. If this doesn't work its going to the professionals for diagnosis. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roblectric Posted July 12, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 12, 2014 VCT solenoid did not fix my headaches! Time for a real diagnostic test. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roblectric Posted July 12, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 12, 2014 The battery was out of the car for close to two months. Is there a possibility that something has gone amiss in the computer? Going to setup an appt. for a full diagnostic at the dealership and maybe a reflash. Current trouble codes are P061B and P0012. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roblectric Posted July 13, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 13, 2014 Swapped the cam sensors and the code moved to bank 1. I originally ruled out the cam sensors because they both had equal resistance across the pins. New cam sensor and problem solved. Thanks to Ted for the advice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roblectric Posted July 13, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 13, 2014 Spoke too soon again. Took her out for a cruise and all was well for a few miles. Stopped and fueled up and when I pulled out of the gas station , it started chugging. Revved it up a bit and back to smooth idle. Now every time I start off in first gear I get the misfiring unless I give it plenty of gas. Runs good through gear changes and come back to smooth idle at intersections. Moving from a dead stop produces the misfiring. No check engine lights. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roblectric Posted July 14, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 14, 2014 Cleaned MAF sensor and took a 10 mile or so test ride. No stumbles. Not going to jinx myself with a happy dance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roblectric Posted July 26, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 26, 2014 My stubbornness has been an exercise in futility. Still haven't taken it to the stealer. Replaced a vct solenoid and cam sensor which did eliminate all codes, but the original symptoms remain. Replaced fuel filter today, no fix. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roblectric Posted August 1, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 1, 2014 I am a stubborn cuss that accepted defeat today. Installed a new alternator with hopes that RF issues were my problem. No luck. Time to let the pros take a look. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roblectric Posted August 9, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 9, 2014 Dealer diagnosis was cut short yesterday , but they said it was one of two things. Cam phaser or low oil pressure. Hoping for a bad phaser! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
americaniron Posted August 9, 2014 Report Share Posted August 9, 2014 Dang! I hope you can get this problem resolved. I know how bad it is to have something wrong that can't get diagnosed fast. I had the dreaded water intrusion problem early on, and it took a while to fix. I hope you can get it straightened out so you can start enjoying your ride again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roblectric Posted August 11, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 11, 2014 Bad news. Dealer told me my best bet was to replace the motor. Warm oil pressure 41psi at 2000 rpm, 20 psi at idle. This sucks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
19again Posted August 11, 2014 Report Share Posted August 11, 2014 That sure is bad news Rob. With all you did trying to find the problem can you tackle a motor install? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roblectric Posted August 12, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 12, 2014 Not sure what I'm going to do yet. Can't get my head to stop spinning. Could not believe it until I tore open my last oil filter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stewarbc Posted August 13, 2014 Report Share Posted August 13, 2014 Good gosh. This is awful to read. What was the official diagnosis? How, what, why? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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