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2013 Shelby Clutch


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Hey guys,

 

I just bought a 2013 Shelby with 19k miles on it from a dealership. First day I heard an unusual sound coming from the front. Hard to explain how it sounded. Kind of a crunchy rattling noise in 1st and 2nd gear in low RPMs. Could even hear it in 3rd. My first guess was maybe the release clutch bearing. 3 days later I was driving normal and the car wouldn't shift into 3rd gear. I pulled over to the side of the road and now won't shift into ANY gears. The clutch sticks and I have to manually pull it out. I've driven a manual car for years and know not to ride the clutch and how to properly drive a manual. $60k car and I have to deal with this. Only had the car for 4 days. Disappointed. Any thought/ideas? Will warranty cover it or will they say it's "wear and tear item"? Sounds like it's either defective or they sold me a car with no clutch. I will greatly appreciate any help. Thanks.

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Dealer should certainly cover the clutch since you just purchased the car 4 days ago, albeit the car is used at $19K miles. It's also impossible to say how the car was treated and driven prior to you purchasing the car.

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If the dealership is worth their salt and don't want a PR nightmare, they will cover you under warranty. These "clutch issues" with the '13 and '14 cars are becoming more common and starting to look like the clutch issues from the 2007 - early production 2009 GT500's.

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Yea that's true. I've heard a lot of issues with the 2013s. Not sure of the previous owner beat the crap out of it or it's a defective clutch, OR both. Even if they fix it, they're probably going to put in the same bs stock clutch in there and have issues again in the near future. I wonder if I can just pay the difference for an after market clutch.

 

I am surprised how they launch and test these cars at the track and never found out about this issue.

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Under warranty, you'll have to go with the clutch they provide. Aftermarket won't fly with Ford. It could be they have a solution as they did for the earlier generation cars. Someone on this forum is likely in the know.

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From what I understand, there isn't a "fix" or even TSB out for the 13-14 clutches. Some people have terrible luck with them, with the stock clutch going on within the first several thousand miles, while others are north of 700rwhp and race them often with no problems. Part of me thinks it's the way the clutch was broken in, while other times it seems I've been reading a lot about the 2013 MY having issues.

Either way, I'd allow Ford to replace the clutch with another stock unit, and if that goes after a short period, then I'd look into the after market. Just remember to brake the clutch in for 500 miles, and alternate shifting and rpms.

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Good point. I think you're absolutely right, I have no idea if the previous owner broke it in properly. At this point I'm just concerned and hoping they won't make me liable and say it's wear and tear. Even with a stock I'd be happy right now as long as warranty covers it and I'll break it in properly, then like you said if that doesn't work out I'll go for an after market clutch. I just hope I don't have to pay out of pocket.

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This sounds like the same issue that happened to me, Clutch sat on the floor when I released it. smelled the clutch burning.

This was at around 2500 miles. took it to the dealer and they told me it was a faulty slave cylinder, replaced it along with the throw-out bearing and pilot bearing. Haven't had a problem since. All work was done under warranty. No problems and I now have almost 7000 miles on her. When I did get the car back, the clutch felt entirely different, lower engagement point and more linear feel.

 

Also, Ask to inspect your parts if they do this for you, or get then to take pictures, would be interested to know what caused it.

 

Good luck with the dealer, I would think they would cover this as the car is still under warranty and you just bought it.

 

jim

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Thanks Jim, yea I will definitely do that and keep everyone updated on what happens and what causes it incase someone else goes through the same issue. And actually I couldn't smell the clutch at all, no smoke, it just all of a sudden stopped shifting and clutch was stuck. But there was unusual sounds coming from the clutch before this happened. I was suspecting something wasn't right.

I still love this car, but it's just so disappointing!

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Hey guys,

 

I just bought a 2013 Shelby with 19k miles on it from a dealership. First day I heard an unusual sound coming from the front. Hard to explain how it sounded. Kind of a crunchy rattling noise in 1st and 2nd gear in low RPMs. Could even hear it in 3rd. My first guess was maybe the release clutch bearing. 3 days later I was driving normal and the car wouldn't shift into 3rd gear. I pulled over to the side of the road and now won't shift into ANY gears. The clutch sticks and I have to manually pull it out. I've driven a manual car for years and know not to ride the clutch and how to properly drive a manual. $60k car and I have to deal with this. Only had the car for 4 days. Disappointed. Any thought/ideas? Will warranty cover it or will they say it's "wear and tear item"? Sounds like it's either defective or they sold me a car with no clutch. I will greatly appreciate any help. Thanks.

Bets,

 

Lots of unknown here that can change the scenario. First and most important what did the used car warranty sticker say that was on the car? Secondly what type of dealership? If a major manufacturer dealership was the car advertised as a "certified" used car?

 

Yes a clutch is considered a wear item but that doesn't mean that it can't be covered under warranty if there is a defect. As others have mentioned you don't know how the previous owner drove the car or even better how the car was treated by the selling dealership. Did the car go home with a salesperson? Did the lot boys take the car out for lunch runs? Was the car repossessed? Was the car given to an upset spouse in a divorce? As you could guess any one of those scenarios could contribute to abuse that wouldn't be covered under warranty.

 

Not that it matters but are you saying you paid $60,000 for a car with 19k miles?

 

Steve

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Steve,

 

I see what you're saying. You're right there could be so many reasons. But since I've only had the car for 4 days and haven't abused it it's bothering me. It's not something that I did to cause it you know what I mean. They sold me a defected clutch or a car without clutch. Either way I think they should cover it. The sticker said it's still under bumper to pumper warranty. The "As-Is" box was unchecked. The warranty box was checked.

And yes I paid $60k with tax and fees total.

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Hey it's blake. I have driven in this car and man between my 2010 shelby and this was night and day. You could hear the noise all the way threw third gear. After 4 days that is crazy and better be covered. Beautiful car but that noise bothered both of us. The day after me and bets drove in it. He couldn't shift it. Insane hope it gets fixed man.

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Steve,

 

I see what you're saying. You're right there could be so many reasons. But since I've only had the car for 4 days and haven't abused it it's bothering me. It's not something that I did to cause it you know what I mean. They sold me a defected clutch or a car without clutch. Either way I think they should cover it. The sticker said it's still under bumper to pumper warranty. The "As-Is" box was unchecked. The warranty box was checked.

And yes I paid $60k with tax and fees total.

Ok thats good news the as-is box was not checked. What type of dealership? Ford, Chevy, BMW, ?

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Take it easy on the clutch for about 500 miles. And Steve he bought it from a ford dealership I think. And he thinks they abused it. I have driven a clutch for 5 years and have never heard something sound like that. The dealer should pay for it and if they don't I would get an attorney to be honest.

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Steve, I purchased it from Ford dealership. And yes it is still under bumper to bumper warranty. Just waiting to see what they say. My car is at the shop.

 

And yea like Blake said, take it easy on the clutch the first 500 miles. Don't go all out, have patience. That 500 miles will come by quick then it's safe to play around after that.

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Steve, I purchased it from Ford dealership. And yes it is still under bumper to bumper warranty. Just waiting to see what they say. My car is at the shop.

 

And yea like Blake said, take it easy on the clutch the first 500 miles. Don't go all out, have patience. That 500 miles will come by quick then it's safe to play around after that.

It sounds like you'll be ok. Even if the dealership concludes the clutch issues were from abuse this can be taken care of as a good will gesture by either the dealership or even Ford if the dealership is willing to go to bat for you with Ford. I have confidence the dealership will come thru.

 

Keep us informed.

 

Steve

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Thank you Steve, I hope so. I just stopped by the dealership to talk to the service manager. He said they have to look at the car and see what exactly is wrong with it. He was nice about it and said warranty should MOST LIKELY cover it. He didn't say it will or it won't, but told me to wait and see what happens. I'm just impatient and anxious/nervous. I will keep you guys informed and hopefully future Shelby buyers will be more aware regarding this common issue with these cars.

Thanks again!

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Just curious, how should I break in the clutch. I just have 400 miles on my 14

 

More detailed information should be in your manual on the break in. At 400 miles, you're probably already pretty well broken in. Hopefully no WOT pulls to 7000rpm have been done on the clutch however.

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Thank you Steve, I hope so. I just stopped by the dealership to talk to the service manager. He said they have to look at the car and see what exactly is wrong with it. He was nice about it and said warranty should MOST LIKELY cover it. He didn't say it will or it won't, but told me to wait and see what happens. I'm just impatient and anxious/nervous. I will keep you guys informed and hopefully future Shelby buyers will be more aware regarding this common issue with these cars.

Thanks again!

 

I would not take no for an answer in this situation. They would cover the clutch replacement/repair, particularly after 4 days of ownership. Used car or not.

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Steve and to whoever else read this thread,

 

I got a call from the dealership that I got my Shelby towed to (not the Ford dealer that I bought it from) the manger called me today and said that the clutch was completely worn out. Said that the car looks good and the clutch was the only issue. The Ford dealership that I purchased it from either failed to check the clutch while inspecting it or the idiots there simply didn't know how to drive a manual. Long story short I want to keep everyone informed that the clutch will be replaced under warranty. I should have my car tomorrow afternoon. Thank God. I miss my car already.

And thanks everyone for your advice!

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Thanks for update, that's excellent news!

 

With the 3.31 gears and the way the 2013/14 clutches engage all at once at the top of the pedal travel, it seems you need to slip these clutches quite a bit more than on other cars. I wonder how long the 13/14 clutches are going to last under normal (non-abusive) driving in urban and suburban driving environments. Maybe 19K miles is not too far from a normal life expectancy on a 13/14 GT500 clutch?

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Steve and to whoever else read this thread,

 

I got a call from the dealership that I got my Shelby towed to (not the Ford dealer that I bought it from) the manger called me today and said that the clutch was completely worn out. Said that the car looks good and the clutch was the only issue. The Ford dealership that I purchased it from either failed to check the clutch while inspecting it or the idiots there simply didn't know how to drive a manual. Long story short I want to keep everyone informed that the clutch will be replaced under warranty. I should have my car tomorrow afternoon. Thank God. I miss my car already.

And thanks everyone for your advice!

Great news. I understand how stressful this can be since you just purchased the car but it seems like you're being taken care of. If this dealership where your car is at is the dealership you'll be using in the future you may want to bring a small "gift" with you when picking up your car. Trust me some money spent on beer, doughnuts, macadamia nuts, or whatever you feel comfortable with goes a long way in establishing a good relationship with your service write and/or mechanic.

 

Steve

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Thanks guys! Yea what a relief! It was the worse feeling watching my 4 day old Shelby get towed away. This was more painful than any break ups I've been through, seriously, haha.

I made sure everything else is ok on the car and the fly wheel as well. It's was just the clutch.

I guess 19k mikes is a lot on these stock clutches or previous owner had no idea what he was doing.

Well atleast I do, I'll break it in properly and hopefully it'll be good for thousands of miles ?

 

And yea Steve you're right I will take something in, maybe a box of doughnuts to show my appreciation for being taken care of.

I'm excited to get it back tomorrow and cruise around in it !!!

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Thanks for update, that's excellent news!

 

With the 3.31 gears and the way the 2013/14 clutches engage all at once at the top of the pedal travel, it seems you need to slip these clutches quite a bit more than on other cars. I wonder how long the 13/14 clutches are going to last under normal (non-abusive) driving in urban and suburban driving environments. Maybe 19K miles is not too far from a normal life expectancy on a 13/14 GT500 clutch?

My guess is to prolong the life of the clutch, a gear swap would be the best thing an owner could add. Perhaps in the spring if my stock clutch is still in the car, I might inquire with Ford about installing a set of 3.73's or 4.10's, and what their thoughts on mating an SCT tuner to the car in order to re-calibrate the speedometer. I don't care if they void the "rear end warranty" or anything which happens to the rear end. But what I would care about, is them attempting to void the warranty because an after market tuner was mated to the computer. I can see dealers being picky stating that the computer controls, air and fuel mixture, timing, and all other electronic features, and if anything fails on the car, its because the computer was altered causing X part to break.

Only way around this, which really "isn't" 100% accurate, is to run a taller tire, such as a 28.9" MT ET drag radial which would help compensate the speedometer difference. ( But then you're back to where you started)

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