gotoatz Posted June 7, 2014 Report Share Posted June 7, 2014 So after a delay / mistake in the original delivery, and the resulting wait for the correct two rims, the saga of rim replacement has finally been completed. I have had the Shelby for about 15 months and have been looking at rims since the start. Now the stock rims are very nice, but, there were three main reasons for me, that I had to replace them..... 1. Original owner of the car was obviously impared, and curbed the rims multiple times. Anyone can do it once, but they probably had been curbed 5 or 6 times..... 2. Original rims are nice, but it finally dawned on me what they lacked.....dish......to me they are too flat faced. Very busy for me, and a real bitch to keep clean.... 3. For me, nothing says old school muscle like a nice 5 spoke "Bullitt-esqe" wheel with some dish to it........to me, these are modern but with an obvious old school nod..... A quick shout out to my normal guys down at Allen Tire Company. They always take excellent care of me, from hand torque to hand speed wrench. No impact tools whatsoever. They also use an excellent face protector for the front side of the rim, and mount the tire from the back. No equipment touches the face of the rim....Thanks guys!!! Nice work as usual...... BEFORE...... AFTER...... Excellent Brake Clearance What you think???? Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2010KonaBlueGT Posted June 8, 2014 Report Share Posted June 8, 2014 Apologies for hijacking your thread but.... Did you cut the openings in your quarter window scoops? Leading and trailing holes? Are they Shelby scoops or some other brand? I've thought about doing something like that with mine. Any pointers, if you did cut them out? TIA, Phill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gotoatz Posted June 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 8, 2014 Apologies for hijacking your thread but.... Did you cut the openings in your quarter window scoops? Leading and trailing holes? Are they Shelby scoops or some other brand? I've thought about doing something like that with mine. Any pointers, if you did cut them out? TIA, Phill HI Phill, No harm no foul. No, I did not cut them. This is how they came. They are MMD brand Elanor louvers from American Muscle. I had them painting while some body work was being done on the car already, but they do carry them pre-painted..... Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twobjshelbys Posted June 8, 2014 Report Share Posted June 8, 2014 I really like the new wheels better!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2010KonaBlueGT Posted June 8, 2014 Report Share Posted June 8, 2014 HI Phill, No harm no foul. No, I did not cut them. This is how they came. Are they actually open in front and back or do they just look like it? Phill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FXR500 Posted June 8, 2014 Report Share Posted June 8, 2014 That looks sweet. I like the "old school" look too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gotoatz Posted June 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 8, 2014 Are they actually open in front and back or do they just look like it? Phill They are actually open and flow through. The only thing I did not care for on the kit, is the screen that goes on the inside of each louver comes flat, and you have to bend, trim, and use 3M tape to hold the screens in...PIA. But the openings are flow through and each end is covered with the aforementioned honeycombed patterned wire screen..... Mike http://1.cdn.lib.americanmuscle.com/files/mustang-painted-eleanor-louvers-manu.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2010KonaBlueGT Posted June 8, 2014 Report Share Posted June 8, 2014 They are actually open and flow through. The only thing I did not care for on the kit, is the screen that goes on the inside of each louver comes flat, and you have to bend, trim, and use 3M tape to hold the screens in...PIA. But the openings are flow through and each end is covered with the aforementioned honeycombed patterned wire screen..... Mike http://1.cdn.lib.americanmuscle.com/files/mustang-painted-eleanor-louvers-manu.pdf Thanks. I took my scoops off for my Mile run so I can cut the openings out easier now, if i decided to do so. Phill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twobjshelbys Posted June 8, 2014 Report Share Posted June 8, 2014 They look like American Wheel Torque Thrust (slightly different to avoid patent/trade mark issues). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
05mustangman Posted June 8, 2014 Report Share Posted June 8, 2014 They look so awesome! Does anybody know if these clear the Baer brakes? And also did you get these from American Muscle? And what sizes did you go with? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueByU Posted June 8, 2014 Report Share Posted June 8, 2014 Looks Great !!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gotoatz Posted June 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 8, 2014 Thanks guys, appreciate it..... Yes, these are the ones from American Muscle. I went with the 20 x 9 in 24mm offset all the way around. The backs are wrapped with 275x40x20 Toyo Proxes 4 Plus, and the fronts are 255x35x20 Toyos. The combination of changing the fronts from 19's to 20's, along with the offset pushing the wheel toward the outside, has changed the stance and attitude of the car quite a bit. Handles awesome, and I really like the change..... Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Helge Ruchelski Posted June 8, 2014 Report Share Posted June 8, 2014 I love those Razors!! The car looks great! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HARALD KELLEY Posted June 8, 2014 Report Share Posted June 8, 2014 I love those Razors!! The car looks great! Agree! Great choice on wheels. A favorite on many Shelby's manufactured at Shelby. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShelbyGT5HUN Posted June 9, 2014 Report Share Posted June 9, 2014 Another beautiful Shelby! Cars looks sharp Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Helix Posted June 9, 2014 Report Share Posted June 9, 2014 My favorite rim Sorry Alcoa Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffJ Posted June 9, 2014 Report Share Posted June 9, 2014 Thanks guys, appreciate it..... Yes, these are the ones from American Muscle. I went with the 20 x 9 in 24mm offset all the way around. The backs are wrapped with 275x40x20 Toyo Proxes 4 Plus, and the fronts are 255x45x20 Toyos. The combination of changing the fronts from 19's to 20's, along with the offset pushing the wheel toward the outside, has changed the stance and attitude of the car quite a bit. Handles awesome, and I really like the change..... Mike I assume you meant that the fronts are 255x35x20's? They look great. I love the Razors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry T Posted June 9, 2014 Report Share Posted June 9, 2014 Grabber blue is always sharp ..... great upgrade!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gotoatz Posted June 9, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 9, 2014 I assume you meant that the fronts are 255x35x20's? They look great. I love the Razors. Thanks Guys!! Yes, that was a typo on my part. You are correct though, 255x35x20. Duh....Me....... Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shelby1028 Posted June 9, 2014 Report Share Posted June 9, 2014 They look really nice! I was interested in those at one point for my '12 but supposedly they don't fit the GT500. I just checked American Muscle's website and the 20x9 is listed as "it fits" and the 20x10 is listed as "it doesn't" fit the GT500. Anyone know why?? Offset? Any way to make it work? Would like to run with 265's up front and 295's out back... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gotoatz Posted June 9, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 9, 2014 The ones you see on my car are the 20 x 9 from American Muscle. I asked the identical question on the 20 x 10's, and I believe the reason is as you stated, the offset....... If you go to American Muscle and go to the "fitment" tab on the 20 x 9 in 24mm offset, you will see that it does list fitment on the shelby. Not the same on the 10 inch..... Many said the 10's "should" fit in the rear, but I really did not want to take the chance of issues, thus the 9's all around...... I love them. The 24mm offset does in fact change the stance of the car from stock. Moves the tires to the outboard side. The fronts on mine which are 255's hit dead on the edge of the wheel well, and the backs, being 275's, now protrude by about 3/4 to an inch....... Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gotoatz Posted June 9, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 9, 2014 REAR....... FRONT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Helix Posted November 15, 2014 Report Share Posted November 15, 2014 I'm going to bring this back, although its not like its that old. I can't tell in the pictures, but did you address the chrome lip that comes with these? One of your pictures it looks like you have the chrome lip there and then in your signature it looks like you painted it. I've always loved the razors more than any other rim, but if there are two things I'd change it'd be removing the rivets from the design (I'm doubting they are there for structural integrity) and when they finish the rims in gunmetal if they could just finish the lip too instead of that chrome machined lip. The car in question is a gunmetal Mach 1 and I think it would just bother me forever if there was a slight bit of chrome around the rim when there is no chrome anywhere else on the car, not even the engine bay - I used carbon fiber for that stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffJ Posted November 15, 2014 Report Share Posted November 15, 2014 I'm going to bring this back, although its not like its that old. I can't tell in the pictures, but did you address the chrome lip that comes with these? One of your pictures it looks like you have the chrome lip there and then in your signature it looks like you painted it. I've always loved the razors more than any other rim, but if there are two things I'd change it'd be removing the rivets from the design (I'm doubting they are there for structural integrity) and when they finish the rims in gunmetal if they could just finish the lip too instead of that chrome machined lip. The car in question is a gunmetal Mach 1 and I think it would just bother me forever if there was a slight bit of chrome around the rim when there is no chrome anywhere else on the car, not even the engine bay - I used carbon fiber for that stuff. The rivets are just glued in, not structural. The lip of all Razors are just polished metal, not chrome plating. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gotoatz Posted November 15, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 15, 2014 The rivets are just glued in, not structural. The lip of all Razors are just polished metal, not chrome plating. Correct. The lip of the rim is machined, not chrome plated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Helix Posted November 15, 2014 Report Share Posted November 15, 2014 Well, that's a plus. Easier to paint it. I just wish they would do it while they are applying the finish such as on many of the charcoal rims they offer through AM, of course charcoal is not available on razors. Something about mis-matched rim lips has recently bothered me in personal taste, but on your car I can't even notice - It looks perfect. Oh, one more question. Those rivets, as mentioned, are glued in. Does that mean they are attached "on" or "in" because I personally would rather have them removed but not if it will leave a remnant of where they used to be. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffJ Posted November 15, 2014 Report Share Posted November 15, 2014 Oh, one more question. Those rivets, as mentioned, are glued in. Does that mean they are attached "on" or "in" because I personally would rather have them removed but not if it will leave a remnant of where they used to be. They are more in than on. The divit on the protrusion where the rivet is glued in is part of the wheel. Removing the rivet top would still leave the protrusion of the wheel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert M Posted November 15, 2014 Report Share Posted November 15, 2014 They are more in than on. The divit on the protrusion where the rivet is glued in is part of the wheel. Removing the rivet top would still leave the protrusion of the wheel. It seems like once brake dust gets into the fake rivet areas they would be a pain to keep clean also, especially on the lighter finish wheels? I have always liked Razors also..............but I am not a fan of fake rivets. I remember fake rivets on the Cobra R knock-offs back in the mid-late 1990's..... R Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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