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Missing Gears, Frustrated...!


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So I drag my 14 about once a month. I have found out way early on that it is next to impossible to speed shift this thing, but about once every 3-4 runs, it will miss or at least grind 2nd and 3rd even with letting off the gas during the shift which frankly pisses me off. This is supposed to be a great tranny and im dealing with issues i used to only have on older crappy trannys. My 00 GT with a T45 shifted better in drags than this one. Anyone with the same problems?

 

FRUSTRATED!

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Unfortunately, yes. I experience the infamous 1st-2nd gear grind from time-to-time, when shifting fast and at high RPMs. (Ironically, I've never had any problem slamming 3rd.) IIRC, the 1st-2nd gear grind issue was prevalent in 2010-2012 MY cars, but Ford claimed to have fixed it in the 2013 MY. If you search various forums, results of that "fix" are decidedly mixed, since we're far from alone.

 

I have an MGW Shifter and SS (brake and) clutch lines on order. Hope to have them installed later this month...

Edited by Norton
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I don't think it's the shifter. Seems to me that at high rpm and a quick clutch pedal press that those two motions are faster than the transmission is capable of dealing with.

Based on everything I've read and heard... In the absence of internal transmission damage, the problem is most often solved by one or both of the changes I listed above (i.e., shifter and clutch line).

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I had a 10.with that problem. As did many camaro owners who also had the tremic 6060. My new 14 dies the same thing. You have to let the rpm drop a bit on the 1/2.shift it it'll grind. If you'll search the 10 forums you'll find list if suggestions that work. If you blow tranny Ford will fight you on warranty because they'll tell you it was abused. So if you're gonna. Race it change it out

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My local tuner just suggested a Whiteline racing positive shiftkit that helps prevent deflection under WOT. Im going to have it installed this week and see how it does. He said its only like $30 and super simple to install. Basically just a bracket. I managed. 10.86 @ 134 today but still slightly grounded 2nd and 3rd.

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I actually have a case opened with Ford pertaining to the 1-2nd gear grind/lockout. I am well aware of this occuring with the 2010-2012 GT500 models, but when Jamal Hameedi stated specifically the grind/lockout problem from 1st -2nd gear has been resolved in the 2013's, I would expect this to be accurate espectially since Ford is aware of it. My question is, I'm wondering how many GT500 owners are reporting it to Ford, rather than just fixing it themselves?

 

According to Jamal Hameedi, the 2nd gear grind/lock out has been remedied with upgrade and new parts in the '13-14 models.
Below I'm including a link on an interview SVT Performance had with him, when he begins to speak about the clutch at around 2:53, and discussed the lock out/grind previous GT500 owners complained about on the 1-2 shift, and Fords/SVT's remedy, which begins at: 3:08. His quote on the 2013 GT500's ability to shift well from 1st to 2nd; "very very difficult, if not impossible to grind this thing on a 1-2 shift."
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X86dnnBGFkQ

 

I would say Jamal was not in touch with the actual car prior to making that statement, or he' s just full of crap.

Edited by SVTracer14
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Wow that is very interesting. I have not reported it to ford either…yet.

 

If the whiteline product does not help, then that may be my next stop. Thanks for posting that though…very glad to now know that was said.

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On my 2011 I added the Barton shifter and it really helped. However on my '14 I've been trying something that was suggested and it seems to work pretty good when I can remember to do it.

 

When I'd go from 1st to 2nd I'd wrap my hand around the shifter ball like I was holding a pistol butt and tend to pull the shifter down and towards the left which can cause it to bind. If I remember to leave my hand "lightly" on top of the shifter and pull straight back, I don't pull it to the left and cause the binding. Like I said it seems to work for me on my 2nd and 4th shifts. I may eventually "need" another shifter ( a Barton again) but until then I'm going to try and remember the "hand on top method" and stick with the stock shifter.

 

This was a suggestion I got from another post by B.J. of VMP.

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On my 2011 I added the Barton shifter and it really helped. However on my '14 I've been trying something that was suggested and it seems to work pretty good when I can remember to do it.

 

When I'd go from 1st to 2nd I'd wrap my hand around the shifter ball like I was holding a pistol butt and tend to pull the shifter down and towards the left which can cause it to bind. If I remember to leave my hand "lightly" on top of the shifter and pull straight back, I don't pull it to the left and cause the binding. Like I said it seems to work for me on my 2nd and 4th shifts. I may eventually "need" another shifter ( a Barton again) but until then I'm going to try and remember the "hand on top method" and stick with the stock shifter.

 

This was a suggestion I got from another post by B.J. of VMP.

Thanks, Bill. I don't recall seeing that advice before. I'll have to give it a try over the next couple of weeks, before my shifter and SS lines go in.

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Looks like the Whiteline positive racing kit does not fit. Just fyi. Back to the drawing board. Thanks to all who have posted on this though. I will definitely evaluate my shifting position as far as straight back or to the side. Maybe that will help, but still shouldn't be having that issue.

 

I will try and call Whiteline and see if they have one for the 6060 trans in the works.

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The issue would seem to be the quick operation of the clutch, mainly during the 1-2 shift, but can happen 2-3 and 3-4. When you stab the clutch to shift, the sudden pressure would expand the clutch line, since it is plastic, even a little, that would interfere with the amount the throw out bearing would move to push the pressure plate. If there is not enough movement, the clutch would still be a little engaged and the trans would grind. This is similar to the brake lines that are on all vehicles. When replacing brake lines with stainless steel lines the pedal feel improves, since there is no swelling. Our clutch line would react the same way. So this I would think would solve this issue most of the time.

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I've got it too and it sucks!! I get a complete 1-2 lockout way too often at >6K RPM WOT.

 

I'm thinking of shifting at a much lower RPM (<6K) as I notice a significant pull in 2nd regardless of the RPM. What's to gain by holding 1st to 6500RPM if it pulls harder in the next gear at a lower RPM? Maybe a seasoned drag-strip guy could chime in...Of course this all comes un-naturally to me as for many years I've always shifted on feel and sound at the top of the power band, right when you feel you reached or reaching the top...

 

I guess I should try the suggestion to change the hand position from side grip to top too...This whole problem is bullsh&t! There should be zero issues on a 1-2 shift if you got the clutch fully pressed in regardless of RPM, hand position, etc!

Edited by grobertx
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Looks like the Whiteline positive racing kit does not fit. Just fyi. Back to the drawing board. Thanks to all who have posted on this though. I will definitely evaluate my shifting position as far as straight back or to the side. Maybe that will help, but still shouldn't be having that issue.

 

I will try and call Whiteline and see if they have one for the 6060 trans in the works.

 

I have a case opened with Ford for this exact problem. Given the following information, I would expect this to be fixed by Ford, although realistically I don't think they will do a darn thing, and I'll end up having to go to the aftermarket like everyone else. When I initially spoke with their customer service, some schmoe over there had the audacity to say that he recommends "sending me to high performance driving school." Right!

 

According to Jamal Hameedi, the 2nd gear grind/lock out has been remedied with upgrade and new parts in the '13-14 models.

Below I'm including a link on an interview SVT Performance had with him, when he begins to speak about the clutch at around 2:53, and discussed the lock out/grind previous GT500 owners complained about on the 1-2 shift, and Fords/SVT's remedy, which begins at: 3:08. His quote on the 2013 GT500's ability to shift well from 1st to 2nd; "very very difficult, if not impossible to grind this thing on a 1-2 shift."

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X86dnnBGFkQ

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This whole problem is bullsh&t! There should be zero issues on a 1-2 shift if you got the clutch fully pressed in regardless of RPM, hand position, etc!

 

I completely agree and others do as well. Thats why, IMO it's best to call Ford/SVT about these problems so they are documented, and perhaps a TSB could some day be put out for them. Paying $60K for a car like this, one would think the shifting would be consistent and reliable, and you wouldn't hear all the problems pertaining to the clutches and axle failures.

If I could afford a 2015 Z06 ( without having car payments ), I would be very tempted to trade my '14 GT500 for one for multiple reasons.

Edited by SVTracer14
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On my 2011 I added the Barton shifter and it really helped. However on my '14 I've been trying something that was suggested and it seems to work pretty good when I can remember to do it.

 

When I'd go from 1st to 2nd I'd wrap my hand around the shifter ball like I was holding a pistol butt and tend to pull the shifter down and towards the left which can cause it to bind. If I remember to leave my hand "lightly" on top of the shifter and pull straight back, I don't pull it to the left and cause the binding. Like I said it seems to work for me on my 2nd and 4th shifts. I may eventually "need" another shifter ( a Barton again) but until then I'm going to try and remember the "hand on top method" and stick with the stock shifter.

 

This was a suggestion I got from another post by B.J. of VMP.

i actually stumbled across this moethod of shifting myself and have not noticed any lockouts since shifting this way.

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I had a case opened on mine. Was told that my car was modified.....Uncatted X Pipe and they would not warranty any work on the trans or rear. They also accused me of "beatin" on the car. I told them it was my Daily Driver and Honestly Never has seen a track since I have owned it, they said the previous owner must have. They said my mods are ones that drag racers do so the issue was my fault. Good luck in dealing with them. They know there is an issue, they just dont want to pay to fix it.

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I had a case opened on mine. Was told that my car was modified.....Uncatted X Pipe and they would not warranty any work on the trans or rear. They also accused me of "beatin" on the car. I told them it was my Daily Driver and Honestly Never has seen a track since I have owned it, they said the previous owner must have. They said my mods are ones that drag racers do so the issue was my fault. Good luck in dealing with them. They know there is an issue, they just dont want to pay to fix it.

 

I'm not so sure it's legal for them to not honor your warranty simply because you have an x-pipe on the car, and they "assume" you race it. Does the car have a tune? Bottom line, if they "believe" you are hard on the car on the street, ask them why Ford manufactured a car that has launch control, acceleration and brake timers, traction control, shift light, adjustable suspenion and 662 horsepower-from the factory. Granted, you don't need to be on a race track to use any of these options, but anyone would be a fool if they believed owners are not going to try these cars out.

I would fight them over them, and would not allow a dealership to not honor a warranty. A dealership also cannot void a factory warranty, that is up to Ford. Only big issue I could see, is if the car has been tuned.

Edited by SVTracer14
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Almost a full page of thread with warranty posts, and not one mention of Moss-Magnesson! That's gotta be some sort of record.

 

I had a plug pop out of my Raptor, and got denied on warranty because they could tell the truck had been "off pavement". My reply was- "no shit, I'm a road contractor, we tear out the roads and build new ones. Any citizen that drives through a road project voids their warranty?" Then the "its Ford, not us". F the warranty. I modded my GT500 before I even hit 1k miles. If I'm gonna be denied, it might as well be for something I actually did.

 

Anything can be fixed, and if it can't, I know a couple guys that can make your broken Shelby turn into an insurance check. Wait, did I just write that? Lol

 

:whistle:

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Almost a full page of thread with warranty posts, and not one mention of Moss-Magnesson! That's gotta be some sort of record.

 

Yes the Federal Trade Commission mandated that dealers/companies cannot void a factory warranty because of aftermarket parts being installed. However, the tricky part comes into play with this comment; "The dealer/vehicle manufacturer has the right to deny a warranty repair but they must demonstrate that the aftermarket part caused the problem. The warranty remains in effect for all other covered parts."

Proving an aftermarket part caused failure, depending on the situation, might be difficult to do for a vehicle manufacturer, however fighting a Ford warranty respresentative who could deny the manufacturer warranty could also prove to be a lengthy procedure. I'm willing to bet that most "dealerships" who void factory warranties because of aftermarket parts, know that car owners will not fight them legally, most likely due to the time and efforts involved.

That said, it would be my best guess that if an owner were to add an aftermarket computer tune to a vehicle, which controls essentially all facets of vehicle electrical operations, including engine timing, fuel delivery, etc, a factory warranty could be voided easier by a manufacturer due to all the parts being affected by the ECU. Again, just my opinion.

 

http://www.sema.org/sema-enews/2011/01/ftc-validates-right-to-install-aftermarket-parts

 

http://www.consumer.ftc.gov/articles/0138-auto-warranties-routine-maintenance

 

http://www.impalasuperstore.com/naisso/magmoss.htm

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I had a talk about this with my friend who's the service manager at my local Ford dealer and he said that 3rd and 4th gears are the default factory gears, meaning that you should shift from 2nd to 3rd and 3rd to 4th gear with an open hand instead of forcing into it with a closed hand. He also said that Ford is aware of the problem and is making a Ford racing short shift kit soon for those of us who like to speed shift.

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I had a talk about this with my friend who's the service manager at my local Ford dealer and he said that 3rd and 4th gears are the default factory gears, meaning that you should shift from 2nd to 3rd and 3rd to 4th gear with an open hand instead of forcing into it with a closed hand. He also said that Ford is aware of the problem and is making a Ford racing short shift kit soon for those of us who like to speed shift.

 

Not certain how this is going to resolve the 1st - 2nd gear lockout/grind?

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You should definitely check with your dealer as this is probably a problem with the 1st/2nd synchronizer gears which should be covered under warranty.

Seems like an exercise in futility... I'd bet hundreds (if not more) of owners have experienced this 1-2 shift problem. Of those hundreds I'd bet at least 20-30% of these $60-70K cars were taken to the dealer yet we can't provide a single case of the issue being 100% resolved. Seems their standard reply is "you modified the car and or you are driving it too hard"... Who the hell buys ANY modern day factory touted ultra high performance car and does NOT run it hard at least from time to time??? I'm afraid we may be forced to the after market for this solution. Hell to be honest I could live with buying the fix if someone could just identify the cause and remedy 100%...

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