NMAv Posted May 9, 2014 Report Share Posted May 9, 2014 I'm really new to the world of drag racing, previous experience limited to racing in high school between red lights. Can someone explain to me why one would select to run a 15 x 10 wheel vs a 18 x 10? I've read about side wall and better hook up and all but I'm not getting it. Trying to decide what rear wheels to get for my car. With my suspension Griggs recommends 18 x 10.5 for road racing, doesn't mention drag racing. I've read where some folks have put 15 inch Racestars on the back of their cars with the Griggs suspension and the 315 kit and that works. I don't want to screw anything up and I don't want to break anything. Also want to have the best chance of hooking up the rear wheels as possible. So looking for advice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NMAv Posted May 13, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 13, 2014 No one??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffJ Posted May 13, 2014 Report Share Posted May 13, 2014 Yes, it's all in the sidewall for traction. This is not quite the same as it used to be however. The newer technology in compounds has changed things drastically. You can now get some really good drag radials in 18" plus sizes that hook really well. If you watch the top series in drag racing, you see how the sidewalls of the tires flex, stretch, and wrinkle. This all helps in hook up on the sticky surface drastically. Also helps in not breaking as much stuff as it is not as violent on the parts. The same holds true for drag radials. The 15" tires allow you to get a much taller sidewall which has a bunch of give in it for the flex of the rubber. For road racing, obviously you want a super strong sidewall which does not have hardly any flex for the corners. This is accomplished in both tire construciton and short sidewall for strength. In the last few years, drag radial construction has changed a bunch. You can now have a shorter sidewall which still provides the traction you need for launches. This is again in both construction and the advanced rubber compunds. I run 15" wheels and Mickey T drag radials when I'm on the drag strip. I then have 18" GT500 wheels with short side wall BFG road race tires when on the twisties. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NMAv Posted May 13, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 13, 2014 Thanks Jeff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2010KonaBlueGT Posted May 13, 2014 Report Share Posted May 13, 2014 Thanks Jeff. I have a set of 15x10 Racestars w/MT Drag Radials if you want to try them. You have to cut the swaybar tabs off of your rear end and relocate the swaybar (I also have a relocation kit) though which is why I'm not running them. I bought them from someone here but he didn't tell me about the tabs, just the relocation part. Phill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank S Posted May 16, 2014 Report Share Posted May 16, 2014 The stickies here might be of use to you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NMAv Posted May 18, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 18, 2014 Phill, thanks for the offer, I have a set off 15x10 Racestars w/MT Drag Radials as well, they don't fit. I was afraid with the Griggs stuff that would be the case, and it is. I'm thinking the road race recommended 18x10.5/11.0 for the rears is the best I'll be able to do for drag racing as well. I would like to be able to get a 325 on there. I'll so the standard 17x5 for the fronts. Of course all this requires $$$, which I don't have at the moment. I'll use my road racing wheels which have a little more side wall on them in the mean time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msb64 Posted May 19, 2014 Report Share Posted May 19, 2014 I just switched last week to a set of 18" drag radials myself, Nitto 555Rs 285/40R18s on the stock rims. Previously, I had M&H Racemaster 325/50R15s on 15x10 Racestar wheels, and had also did the bumpstop removal/relocation and sway bar relocation brackets. I found that the 325s had more bite and allowed for heavier throttle off the line. With both setups I still had to drive the car off the line though, with a controlled release of the clutch and squeeze down on the gas. I noticed that I had to feather it a bit more with the 285s though, or they would break loose instantly. Once I got them figured out a bit they did perform, I managed an 11.33 & 11.34 with them, and 125.35 mph. I had them at 16 lbs warm, and was doing about a 4 second burnout to heat them up. The changes I made for the track runs with the new 285s was to install a tubular rad support (-7.2 lbs), remove my KR strut tower brace and install the oem one (-4 lbs), and remove the front sway bar and hardware (-17.5 lbs). The 18s were a lot smoother at the top end shut down, the 15s running at 15 lbs were pretty darn bouncy. Nothing like having your back end bouncing up and down with a little side to side wiggle at 120+ mph, on a car that is usually rock solid. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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