Track Day Upgrades

[cwa2wa2011]

Hello All-

 

I have enjoyed reading the posts in this section for the last year and figured I would get some good feedback.

 

I have a 2011 GT500 (non SVTPP) that I track 3-5 times a year.

 

I have changed out the following:

[1] Brake fluid (Amzoil)

[2] EBC yellow pads and new rotors (went a little too long with the original pads)

[3] Stainless steal brake lines

 

My question is: I was thinking of having the M-FR3-MSVTA put on the car to help with the handling. Know my budget is $2500-$3000 one of my friends suggested going with coilovers.

The car only has 5200 miles and I do enjoy driving on the street but would like to have a better track car. What direction would you go and/or is there a different direction I should take?

 

Thank you again for the feedback.

 

Chris

[Kevin Patten]

Chris,

I would suggest that you first go with a SPP watts linkage , a pair of SPP rear lower control arms , and the M-5490-B sway bar kit. for now JMO.

[89Saleen215]

Once the car is lowered it throws off the roll center heights which cause fun things like under/over steer. I run the FRPP suspension, sans rear bar, and the Fays2 watts link. I set the propeller on the watts to be 1 notch lower than center and I have a small amount of understeer that I'm trying to dial out this year. The Shelby watts piece won't allow the rear propeller to be lowered as much as the original Fays2 piece, so it's limited in how helpful it can be for tracking. The watts is one of my favorite mods. There are multiple ways to deal with under/over steer issues. So I can either get an adjustable bar on the back, try a v6 bar, or lower the rear roll center height by moving the propeller down farther...which is what I'm trying first. The next step is to raise the front rch by adding extended balljoints or new lca's.

 

Other's like Kenny Brown, BMR, etc have pieces that they sell as a kit to keep all of this in place. It all depends on how much you want to get involved in this. I wanted the FRPP kit and the watts...so now I'm just making them work for me the way I want.

[barspen]

I did the 'upgrade-as-you-go' method. Started with FRPP Springs and LCA's. I added adjustable front sway bar end-links and Koni stock\struts later in the process.

 

But the most noticeable handling improvements came with upgrading the rubber bushings on the front and rear sway bars to polyurethane. The stock sway bar is plenty thick enough, but the rubber bushing (in the front) are glued in, which doesn't allow the bar to articulate properly in fast corners. This causes heavy understeer (feels like driving a tank). I was amazing how swapping out the bushings made such a huge difference in aggressive cornering. Best thing about this mod - is cost about $150 and takes a couple hours to do yourself.

 

I did all the work myself, expect the lowering springs. All in, I spent under $1500.

 

Lots of good posts and opinions on this forum and SVT Performance.

 

BTW, do you live in AZ? wonder if we passed each other on the freeway at some point?

[mark.barton]

Hello All-

 

I have enjoyed reading the posts in this section for the last year and figured I would get some good feedback.

 

I have a 2011 GT500 (non SVTPP) that I track 3-5 times a year.

 

I have changed out the following:

[1] Brake fluid (Amzoil)

[2] EBC yellow pads and new rotors (went a little too long with the original pads)

[3] Stainless steal brake lines

 

My question is: I was thinking of having the M-FR3-MSVTA put on the car to help with the handling. Know my budget is $2500-$3000 one of my friends suggested going with coilovers.

The car only has 5200 miles and I do enjoy driving on the street but would like to have a better track car. What direction would you go and/or is there a different direction I should take?

 

Thank you again for the feedback.

 

Chris

Hi Chris,

 

I just thought I would chime in with one more thing to make your head spin. Take a look at the Maximum Motorsports Road and Track box. No recommendation, but it looks really interesting, especially the part about 1.2g's on street tires while still maintaining a daily driver ride quality.......

 

I too have been going through this struggle about what to do with the suspension (all the while trying to save my nickels to buy something).

 

Mark

[cwa2wa2011]

Thank you one and all (Albino500, 89Saleen215, Barry, and Mark) for taking the time to reply!

I truly appreciate the feedback...

If my wife would allow me to spend the principle , then I would not have to live in a budget

However that is not the case...

It is my goal to start this summer...

 

Yes Barry, I do live in AZ (East Valley)... Maybe on the 60 or 101...

 

Have a great day guys,

 

Chris

[89Saleen215]

I'm cheap too...I bought the FRPP suspension for $800 and the black Fays2 watts for $450. You also might want to consider a brake ducting kit for your fronts to keep your rotors and pads happy...and the rest of you too.

[mark.barton]

I'm cheap too...I bought the FRPP suspension for $800 and the black Fays2 watts for $450. You also might want to consider a brake ducting kit for your fronts to keep your rotors and pads happy...and the rest of you too.

+1 on cheap.

+1 on brake ducts.

 

Mark

[TurboGT]

A "HANS" device is a good investment too. It won't make you faster, but if you ever need it - it will pay for itself a million times over.

As far as hardware for the car - everyone above is right on target.

[jerseygator]

I asked this same question of Gary Patterson... He gave me the look and said, "Tires."

 

I said what kind? He said, "Hoosiers of course..."

 

Curious why nobody has mentioned them. Made a HUGE difference on track day. Everyone else was squealing like pigs in the corners. I was on a rail.

I also did brakes, fluid (Blue Dot), strut tower brace and LCA relo brackets.

 

[svttim]

Tires are great but, they are better with a good suspension. Maximum Motorsports is a good choice. Not the sexy choice lately but they have been at this for a while. Kenny Brown also does some nice stuff and you can always call him. Cooling ducts for the brakes are a must

[cwa2wa2011]

Thanks again guys! Truly appreciate all the feedback!

 

Jerseygator- could not agree more with the tire comment. My first set (the stock Goodyear) was like driving on ice. Then I got smart and bought a second set of rims and used Toyo R888 (nice, better than the GY) for the track, However, my current set is the Hoosier R6 (WOW)! The only negative is, darn.... those R6's do stick but you use them up quick

[Kevin Patten]

All are good points but some are for a "one time expense" items like add on parts while others are "reoccurring costs" like tires.

[jerseygator]

Thanks again guys! Truly appreciate all the feedback!

 

Jerseygator- could not agree more with the tire comment. My first set (the stock Goodyear) was like driving on ice. Then I got smart and bought a second set of rims and used Toyo R888 (nice, better than the GY) for the track, However, my current set is the Hoosier R6 (WOW)! The only negative is, darn.... those R6's do stick but you use them up quick

 

 

All are good points but some are for a "one time expense" items like add on parts while others are "reoccurring costs" like tires.

 

 

 

 

 

2 days on the track. About 2 hours total time!

[svttim]

Hoosiers have a nickname in racing circles, purple crack

[Kevin Patten]

:hysterical2: " Track Whores hooked on Purple Crack " - sounds like the title of a book I should write - NAAAW I'll stick with "So you want to go racing ? "

[jerseygator]

Hoosiers have a nickname in racing circles, purple crack

 

 

:hysterical2: " Track Whores hooked on Purple Crack " - sounds like the title of a book I should write - NAAAW I'll stick with "So you want to go racing ? "

 

 

 

 

That is great! And soooo appropriate.

 

They do send you stickers for free, but you have to call them and ask for them. 2 of my favs...

[cwa2wa2011]

Hahahahaha.... "Purple Track Crack", love it!

[2010KonaBlueGT]

I asked this same question of Gary Patterson... He gave me the look and said, "Tires."

 

I said what kind? He said, "Hoosiers of course..."

 

Jerseygator,

 

Where did you buy your Hoosiers & what did you have to give for them?

 

I raced with Hoosiers (dirt track) and they made the difference of running with the pack to leading the pack & winning the championship. My tire supplier was in Cali & is long gone so I can't use him, need a new source.

 

And curious, what size/s did you end up with? What about compound?

 

TIA,

 

Phill

[ViperNC]

I've actually been looking for a source for Michelin racing tires. Can't seem to find one.... was easy to get racing slicks for my track bike, but finding Michelin slicks for cars is almost impossible.

[jwhite1967]

Any suggestions on open track day settings for Koni adjustable struts?

[svttim]

Any suggestions on open track day settings for Koni adjustable struts?

 

Have you used them before and if so, what settings did you use and how did the car handle?

[jwhite1967]

 

Have you used them before and if so, what settings did you use and how did the car handle?

Tim

I've run different settings mostly firmer front than rear but also was told by a racer to run firmer on the rear than the front. Front's have been at 1 to 2 turns firm with rears at 1 to 11/2 firm.

[svttim]

Tim

I've run different settings mostly firmer front than rear but also was told by a racer to run firmer on the rear than the front. Front's have been at 1 to 2 turns firm with rears at 1 to 11/2 firm.

Are you loose or tight?

[jwhite1967]

Are you loose or tight?

Tight

[svttim]

Yup, you have to soften the front. You can adjust with by reducing air pressure in the front (depending where you're at) Adjust the sway bar (if adjustable) or soften the shocks. Do one step at a time, test it and adjust it if needed. Obviously, there is only so much you can do with any one of these. Id start with the shocks

[jwhite1967]

 

Yup, you have to soften the front. You can adjust with by reducing air pressure in the front (depending where you're at) Adjust the sway bar (if adjustable) or soften the shocks. Do one step at a time, test it and adjust it if needed. Obviously, there is only so much you can do with any one of these. Id start with the shocks

 

I'll give that a try. Thanks for the help.

[desire2bfast]

Iam reaching out to my brother n sister Shelby drivers for knowledge and recommendations. I have a 2010 GT 500 and the track bug bit this year, like hard. Minimum of one weekend a month, typically 2.5 hrs track time a day. Most track weekends it's only one day but. . . . . This year I ran Michelin Pilot Super Sports, 295 35R 19 on back, 255 40R 19 up front. Initially; great. But as experience increased so did speed. As speed increased, limitations of my girl began to surface. The last couple track days the tires, specifically the front, were no longer "great". Matter of fact on the last day my Michelins "chunked" out right down to the cords. Plenty of tread left except on the outer corner. I typically shot for a hot tire pressure of 42 psi. Additionally; we began to experience front end push (sliding).

Question #1: Track Tires for stock rims. I know Hoosier R6's are the "bomb" but dang; $1,400.00 a set for 2 or 3 weekends really cuts down on my enjoyment factor. Anybody run Hankook Ventus R s 3? I'm thinking heavily about 305 30AR 19 XL's on back and 275 35ZR 19Ws up front.

Qustion #2: Obtaining 1.5 - 2 degrees negative camber on stock springs and suspension. Whats the best way to go about it - camber plates?

Main Track is Putnam Park in Greencastle Indiana, but 10/10ths also goes to Mid Ohio, Gingerman, and the Corvette Museum in KY. Mid Ohio was an absolute blast by the way!

Anyway; I'm tired of giving out pass by signals to (a select few) GT R's, Vettes (usually race prepped) some aftermarket blessed M3's and Camaro's. It just ain't right. Standing by. CM

[jerseygator]

Jerseygator,

 

Where did you buy your Hoosiers & what did you have to give for them?

 

I raced with Hoosiers (dirt track) and they made the difference of running with the pack to leading the pack & winning the championship. My tire supplier was in Cali & is long gone so I can't use him, need a new source.

 

And curious, what size/s did you end up with? What about compound?

 

TIA,

 

Phill

Wow... Talk about "Better late than never..."

 

Just saw this post.

 

Got them at Tire Rack online. $1450 shipped to my local Ford dealer for mounting on my extra set of stock 18" rims.

 

Went with R6's.

245/40ZR's on the front. And 275/35ZR's on the back.

[ViperNC]

 

Iam reaching out to my brother n sister Shelby drivers for knowledge and recommendations. I have a 2010 GT 500 and the track bug bit this year, like hard. Minimum of one weekend a month, typically 2.5 hrs track time a day. Most track weekends it's only one day but. . . . . This year I ran Michelin Pilot Super Sports, 295 35R 19 on back, 255 40R 19 up front. Initially; great. But as experience increased so did speed. As speed increased, limitations of my girl began to surface. The last couple track days the tires, specifically the front, were no longer "great". Matter of fact on the last day my Michelins "chunked" out right down to the cords. Plenty of tread left except on the outer corner. I typically shot for a hot tire pressure of 42 psi. Additionally; we began to experience front end push (sliding).

Question #1: Track Tires for stock rims. I know Hoosier R6's are the "bomb" but dang; $1,400.00 a set for 2 or 3 weekends really cuts down on my enjoyment factor. Anybody run Hankook Ventus R s 3? I'm thinking heavily about 305 30AR 19 XL's on back and 275 35ZR 19Ws up front.

Qustion #2: Obtaining 1.5 - 2 degrees negative camber on stock springs and suspension. Whats the best way to go about it - camber plates?

Main Track is Putnam Park in Greencastle Indiana, but 10/10ths also goes to Mid Ohio, Gingerman, and the Corvette Museum in KY. Mid Ohio was an absolute blast by the way!

Anyway; I'm tired of giving out pass by signals to (a select few) GT R's, Vettes (usually race prepped) some aftermarket blessed M3's and Camaro's. It just ain't right. Standing by. CM

 

I feel your pain my friend. The issue is that you'll have to pay to play. The softer compound track tires will get you more performance under racing conditions, but they are not going to last long. So you can stay with the Michelin's and choose to dial it back a bit to conserve your tires and put your ego aside, or you have to open up your wallet and get the expensive rubber - BTW: $1400 for a set of tires is not bad at all. As for Q2: Yes. Adjustable camber caster plates are the way to go.

 

Here is my two cents: If you are going to start getting more serious about running on the track, go buy a dedicated track car. I have been considering picking up a used Panoz GTRA instead of putting my Shelby on track. Classic Ford 351 powerplant, T5 tranny and a 9 inch Ford rear end in a purpose built race car with full roll cage/tubular frame..... and about 1000 lbs lighter than a Shelby GT500.