UKGT500 Posted January 22, 2014 Report Share Posted January 22, 2014 A small project that I wonder if it's worth doing? Can't say my car rolls much really even on fairly enthusiastic cornering. Wondered about changing the bushes to poly in the front and rear bars and changing the links at the rear to Ford Racing ones: http://www.cjponyparts.com/ford-racing-sway-bar-end-link-for-frpp-sway-bar-m5490b/p/M5490LINKB/ BTW the ride is firm enough for me with my FRPP suspension parts so I don't really want to add to NVH if I can help it... Thanks! Malc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin Patten Posted January 22, 2014 Report Share Posted January 22, 2014 Actually it's worth checking to see if your sway bars are in bind first. Take and disconnect the end links on the sway bars and see if they rotate freely through their travel. If not then go to the poly bushings and shim them if needed to free the rotation. If they rotate freely then it's probably not worth it to change out to poly. On early GT500s (2007-2010) the front bar end links are round on the shaft portion and have coarse threads on the end nuts - some change the end links over to the later design (2011-2014) which have a squared pressed section on the shaft portion and fine threads and have less flex to them. JMO Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UKGT500 Posted January 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 22, 2014 Interesting, thanks Malc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ViperNC Posted January 22, 2014 Report Share Posted January 22, 2014 I replaced my sway bars and it came with the poly bushings. I would recommend doing the same. You may see some enhancement going to poly bushings only, but the sway bar upgrade is not expensive and a good investment in my opinion. I opted to upgrade my end links as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barspen Posted February 1, 2014 Report Share Posted February 1, 2014 I upgraded mine a few months ago. Project was pretty easy and didn't cost much. To be honest, I don't notice much of a change from a drivability standpoint. But they look better and are much sturdier than stock links. No increased NVH. I used a small amount of teflon tap and grease where the links connected to the bar. Also, make sure you 2x check torque values on the top of the link...I had one that got loose a made a bunch of noise. Still haven't done the front sway bar bushings (that come with the kit) since you have to cut the plate off to remove the OEM bushing. I used Stallion Suspension adjustable front links. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barspen Posted February 9, 2014 Report Share Posted February 9, 2014 Upgraded the front sway bar bushing on my 2011 today. VERY pleased with the results. Here's what I did: - Jacked up and put on jack stand - removed wheels - Disconnected bushing bolts. These are a bit tricky to access with power tools, but easy with a deep socket 15mm ratchet - Bent the bottom tab on the plate between the bushing and frame. Had to Dremel off the top tab to completely free the bracket - Used a long flathead screwdriver to separate the plate from the bushing - Used a screwdriver to pry off the stock rubber bushing. It seemed glued or melted in place (this is a problem I'll mention later). - Cleaned off the old rubber stuck to the bar. Used a razor to slice it off - Wrapped the bar-to-bushing contact point with teflon tape and greased the bushing with Energy Suspension pre-lube - Placed the new poly bushing on - Lined up the plate to the screws - Lined up the bushing clamp and tightened it down to 52ft/lbs What amazed me was how different the ride felt. Honestly, I wasn't expecting much, but the first turn startled me. The front end bit like a mother on a 45mph sharp turn. Tried it again and again, with the same result...point the nose as I was there. After my last track day, I wondered why I had so much understeer. Starting to think that binding between stock rubber bushing and sway bar was the culprit. Here's my theory: The stock rubber bushing are sh!t and where binding bad, allowing no movement in the front sway bar. It should allow the bar to swing vertically, but not horizontally. Once the new bushing where in (and well greased), the sway bar could articulate properly. Now the adjustable front end links can do there job. Makes me wonder if those doing sway bar upgraded are really seeing benefits from the new bushings, verses the bar itself. Took me about 2 hours (mainly scraping old rubber off) and cost about $150 for poly front bushings and rear end links (FRPP kit). Pulling the old bushing off Stock rubber bushing and D-clamp New poly bushing lubed up New bushing with D-bracket (notice zerk fitting for greasing it later) New bushing installed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bloomy63 Posted February 10, 2014 Report Share Posted February 10, 2014 Are the bushings on 2008's glued to the sway bar too? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin Patten Posted February 10, 2014 Report Share Posted February 10, 2014 Are the bushings on 2008's glued to the sway bar too? NO but, I've found several ones that were bound up @ the frame mounts and had to space them out with washers to free up the front sway bar in order to rotate freely. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UKGT500 Posted February 10, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2014 Nice pics there and well explained. Thanks All. I think it looks like it's worth doing. I will do my best to find black ones rather than the red I usually see. Not that I mind red and I'll get them if that's all I can find. Just that I have so many colours under my car: red struts/shocks, blue springs, black sway bars, etc, etc, etc...1 Malc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slabo Posted February 10, 2014 Report Share Posted February 10, 2014 NO but, I've found several ones that were bound up @ the frame mounts and had to space them out with washers to free up the front sway bar in order to rotate freely. Kevin, is there anything to check on the rear sway bars? I will go ahead and check my front and adjust just because I am changing CC plates and adding the 2011 end links anyway. I have the Eibach swaybars with ploy bushing BTW. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin Patten Posted February 10, 2014 Report Share Posted February 10, 2014 Bob, On the rear bar you can take out the 2 bolts from the frame(body) brackets and check the bar for free rotation @ the axle mounts and also rotate the links to check for binding at the bar/link attachment. If it's good then bolt the links back up to the frame brackets and torque to specs. Make sure you have lube around the link bushings @ the frame mount brackets to prevent noise issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slabo Posted February 10, 2014 Report Share Posted February 10, 2014 Bob, On the rear bar you can take out the 2 bolts from the frame(body) brackets and check the bar for free rotation @ the axle mounts and also rotate the links to check for binding at the bar/link attachment. If it's good then bolt the links back up to the frame brackets and torque to specs. Make sure you have lube around the link bushings @ the frame mount brackets to prevent noise issues. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bloomy63 Posted February 12, 2014 Report Share Posted February 12, 2014 NO but, I've found several ones that were bound up @ the frame mounts and had to space them out with washers to free up the front sway bar in order to rotate freely. Thank you! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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