EBC Yellow Stuff review

[frazierfreud]

I'm unhappy. Grip was solid. Less grip than my hawk hp plus. Pretty much no squeal on the street. Less dust than my Hawk hp plus.

 

Then as I drove home, I heard the grinding sound of my right rear rotor. Nothing I could do then. I got home and the right rear pad was gone and my new rotor was ground to pieces. My left rear rotor 3/4 gone and the rotor seemed to be wearing unevenly in the middle of the rotor. My two front pads were half gone and the rotors looked fine.

 

I filed a warranty claim through autoanything.com yesterday...they are in turn contacting EBC. I find it hard to believe that a set of track pads didn't last 8 sessions over a weekend! Grant it, they aren't hard core track pads, but still they are track pads.

[Kevin Patten]

Sounds like the TCS was NOT turned off and was the cause of your rear brakes demise . As I've suggested before to guys taking their GT500s to the track , get a set of Raybestos ST43 race pads for the front and use Hawk HPS pads in the rear and remember to turn off the TCS at the track . Yes the ST43s will squeal on the street but then again they are a race pad. Time to get out of the kiddie pool Mark .

[frazierfreud]

Sounds like the TCS was NOT turned off and was the cause of your rear brakes demise . As I've suggested before to guys taking their GT500s to the track , get a set of Raybestos ST43 race pads for the front and use Hawk HPS pads in the rear and remember to turn off the TCS at the track . Yes the ST43s will squeal on the street but then again they are a race pad. Time to get out of the kiddie pool Mark .

I kept the traction control off the whole time. I made sure of it.

[Kevin Patten]

Did you have the EBC yellow pads in the rear also ?

 

I will add this - sometimes guys who have put on the BMR rear LCAs and the relocate brackets have the parking brake cables too tight in the routing and cause drag on the rear brakes - make sure that the car rolls freely after coming in from a session if not they maybe hanging up - you have to route up / over the LCA and may even have to bend the bracket @ the frame mount by the front of the LCA to free up the cable as to take up the tension ( it's not done @ the adjuster on the parking brake arm ) . The only other thing that I've found is that sometimes ( rarity ) is that the banjo bolt is too long on the SS braided hoses and interferes with the piston in the rear caliper being able to return ( only seen this once on a Goodridge hose setup ).

[mark.barton]

I'm unhappy. Grip was solid. Less grip than my hawk hp plus. Pretty much no squeal on the street. Less dust than my Hawk hp plus.

 

Then as I drove home, I heard the grinding sound of my right rear rotor. Nothing I could do then. I got home and the right rear pad was gone and my new rotor was ground to pieces. My left rear rotor 3/4 gone and the rotor seemed to be wearing unevenly in the middle of the rotor. My two front pads were half gone and the rotors looked fine.

 

I filed a warranty claim through autoanything.com yesterday...they are in turn contacting EBC. I find it hard to believe that a set of track pads didn't last 8 sessions over a weekend! Grant it, they aren't hard core track pads, but still they are track pads.

I'm really surprised by this. I know a couple of other guys who use the EBC Yellow Stuff pads on their Mustangs that they track and I have not heard of a problem like this.

 

Mark

[mark.barton]

Sounds like the TCS was NOT turned off and was the cause of your rear brakes demise . As I've suggested before to guys taking their GT500s to the track , get a set of Raybestos ST43 race pads for the front and use Hawk HPS pads in the rear and remember to turn off the TCS at the track . Yes the ST43s will squeal on the street but then again they are a race pad. Time to get out of the kiddie pool Mark .

On the race pads. When you do track days on street tires (Bridgestone RE-11's) like I do, is it possible that a race pad can overwhelm the street tires? Just curious.

 

the other Mark

[Kevin Patten]

On the race pads. When you do track days on street tires (Bridgestone RE-11's) like I do, is it possible that a race pad can overwhelm the street tires? Just curious.

 

the other Mark

the other Mark

 

no a race pad will not "overwhelm" a street tire - just make sure that your tire pressures are up to where they need to be especially on the front tires ( RE-11 need be close to the max rating which is 50 or 51 PSI depending on the size and load rating when on a big boy like a GT500 )

 

On my 07 GT500 I run Michelin Pilot Sport PS2s and have to run 46 to 47 PSI cold on the fronts to hold the weight loads in cornering for the track and then drop them down to 35 PSI for on the street . Rears only need to go to 38 PSI cold for the track and 35 PSI for the street . I run 275/40-18 on OEM wheels and have over 12,000 street/track miles on them .

[MMcGuirk]

I have got a ton of track days on a set of yellow stuff with almost no wear.

 

Something else is causing this

[Kevin Patten]

I have got a ton of track days on a set of yellow stuff with almost no wear.

 

Something else is causing this

and you have gone over to the ST43s now on the front of your GT350 - right ?

[mark.barton]

the other Mark

 

no a race pad will not "overwhelm" a street tire - just make sure that your tire pressures are up to where they need to be especially on the front tires ( RE-11 need be close to the max rating which is 50 or 51 PSI depending on the size and load rating when on a big boy like a GT500 )

 

On my 07 GT500 I run Michelin Pilot Sport PS2s and have to run 46 to 47 PSI cold on the fronts to hold the weight loads in cornering for the track and then drop them down to 35 PSI for on the street . Rears only need to go to 38 PSI cold for the track and 35 PSI for the street . I run 275/40-18 on OEM wheels and have over 12,000 street/track miles on them .

I never would have guessed that the pressures needed to be that high. I generally have started out at 37 PSI front to get to 42 PSI hot and 33 to 34 PSI rear to get to 40 PSI hot. I run 285/35 19 RE-11's on the OEM wheels. I will definitely try this next track day which, unfortunately, won't be until next April (stupid midwest winters). Oh, and I got 8,000 miles on one pair of Bridgestones. Half on the rear, half on the front.

 

Anyway, on the brake pads, overwhelm probably wasn't the right word. I read somewhere that you will not get the best out of the braking capacity of the race pads with street tires and I wanted to know what your experience was.

 

Mark

[Kevin Patten]

I never would have guessed that the pressures needed to be that high. I generally have started out at 37 PSI front to get to 42 PSI hot and 33 to 34 PSI rear to get to 40 PSI hot. I run 285/35 19 RE-11's on the OEM wheels. I will definitely try this next track day which, unfortunately, won't be until next April (stupid midwest winters). Oh, and I got 8,000 miles on one pair of Bridgestones. Half on the rear, half on the front.

 

Anyway, on the brake pads, overwhelm probably wasn't the right word. I read somewhere that you will not get the best out of the braking capacity of the race pads with street tires and I wanted to know what your experience was.

 

Mark

You are right in the settings you have Mark - you should be having right around a 6-8 PSI build up between cold and hot pressures on tires and equal amounts of PSI gain on all four . Using racing pads will enable you to stay away from brake fade problems ( maintaining bite at higher temps ) that you get from a street pad but doesn't mean that it will cause a distortion in the tire contact patch under heavy braking - that has to do with the load capabilities of the tires you're using .

[mark.barton]

You are right in the settings you have Mark - you should be having right around a 6-8 PSI build up between cold and hot pressures on tires and equal amounts of PSI gain on all four . Using racing pads will enable you to stay away from brake fade problems ( maintaining bite at higher temps ) that you get from a street pad but doesn't mean that it will cause a distortion in the tire contact patch under heavy braking - that has to do with the load capabilities of the tires you're using .

I run Performance Friction Z-Rated pads front and rear on the GT500. Never had a brake fade issue with these pads even at Hallett in 100 degree Oklahoma summers. Like a race pad, they do get much better with heat and work really well for track days. I wouldn't race with them though, especially on a GT500.

 

Oh, and I should say that I did add brake cooling ducts over the winter. Just to make sure.

 

Mark

[frazierfreud]

I talked to the EBC tech guy this evening. He didn't think I did enough light street driving to bed the brakes. You are supposed to do this before the heavy braking repetitions to properly bed the brakes. I did about 200 miles of light driving before the heavy braking. Anyway, he is supposed to call me back tomorrow and let me know what he can do for me on a set of the Blue Stuff pads. My front pads are at least 1/2 gone and I don't trust them to another track day.

[frazierfreud]

I'm thinking that I may just do the Blue Stuff pads in the rear since they are going to replace my Yellow Stuff pads. Keep my Yellow Stuff on the front for daily driving. Then do the Raybestos ST43 up front for the track. Any thoughts on comparability with the st43 up front and blue stuff in the rear?

[mark.barton]

I'm thinking that I may just do the Blue Stuff pads in the rear since they are going to replace my Yellow Stuff pads. Keep my Yellow Stuff on the front for daily driving. Then do the Raybestos ST43 up front for the track. Any thoughts on comparability with the st43 up front and blue stuff in the rear?

I can't comment on the compatibility of the two different manufacturers, but keep in mind when swapping pads without using two sets of rotors, you will have to go through a bed in procedure after every swap. The transfer layer of pad material on the rotor needs to be the same material as the pads.

 

Mark

[frazierfreud]

I can't comment on the compatibility of the two different manufacturers, but keep in mind when swapping pads without using two sets of rotors, you will have to go through a bed in procedure after every swap. The transfer layer of pad material on the rotor needs to be the same material as the pads.

for the folks who are doing hawk hps on all 4 corners and then switching to the raybestos up front for track days, are they doing the new bed in procedure at the track?

[Kevin Patten]

I'm thinking that I may just do the Blue Stuff pads in the rear since they are going to replace my Yellow Stuff pads. Keep my Yellow Stuff on the front for daily driving. Then do the Raybestos ST43 up front for the track. Any thoughts on comparability with the st43 up front and blue stuff in the rear?

Have not tried that combo - I don't know the compatability of the EBC Blue with the single piston sliding caliper in the rear either .

 

I can't comment on the compatibility of the two different manufacturers, but keep in mind when swapping pads without using two sets of rotors, you will have to go through a bed in procedure after every swap. The transfer layer of pad material on the rotor needs to be the same material as the pads.

 

Mark

True however , keep in mind there is compatibility with common types of materials ( semi-metallics vs. composites vs. ceramics )

 

for the folks who are doing hawk hps on all 4 corners and then switching to the raybestos up front for track days, are they doing the new bed in procedure at the track?

Most will change to the ST43 at home and bed them in on the way to the track and then change back once back from the track - do a flush and pad change and then bed back in the HPS pads for their street use . There is compatibility between the HPS and ST43 pads that I do know.

[frazierfreud]

Hmm. Maybe I'll just go for the hawk hps with raybestos st43 on track days. I do need to go faster.

[frazierfreud]

So, the hawk hps are adequate for track days in the rear?

[Kevin Patten]

So, the hawk hps are adequate for track days in the rear?

Yes , they are . You still need to check to make sure nothing is hanging up on your rear brakes and they are functioning properly.

[MMcGuirk]

and you have gone over to the ST43s now on the front of your GT350 - right ?

Shhh... I thought we were keeping the ST43s a secret?

[frazierfreud]

With grippy tires and the st43's, should I be looking at different lugs?

[Kevin Patten]

Shhh... I thought we were keeping the ST43s a secret?

Been holding on to that one for awhile - I'll let that one out - no worries I have others up my sleeve !

 

With grippy tires and the st43's, should I be looking at different lugs?

Yes , you should start thinking about putting on the FRPP front hubs w/ARP studs and ARP 3" long rear axle studs w/open lug nuts .

[frazierfreud]

Will my Alcoa super snake style wheels work with these ARP studs as long as I have open ended lug nuts?

[TurboGT]

Shhh... I thought we were keeping the ST43s a secret?

 

Wait, wait! Kevin told me he'd never share share that with ANYBODY, now EVERYBODY knows about 'em!! Next thing you know he'll be telling everyone to get a watts link - sheesh!

I have run the following brake pad combinations at the same track on the same car: Stock pads & rotors, Hawk HPS front w/OEM rears & stock rotors, HPS front & OEM rears on DBA slotted rotors, now ST43 front & HPS rear on DBA slotted rotors. Each change was an incremental improvement in performance over the one previous - with the driver the one constant (handicap!). I thought the HPS did pretty good for what they are (a high performance "street" pad), decent fade resistance (but they DID fade pushed hard with decent tires). A little dusty than stock, but I drove them harder than the stock ones & they didn't squeal much. The ST43 were (as advertised) a great track pad and best appreciated at the track when they're nice and hot - combined with the HPS on the rear is a good combo on the car for track days. Downside is the ST43 squeals until they're warmed up real good which you wont likely do on the street. I have not had them fade and they are more than a match for the Michelin PSS I'm currently running - I'm confident they will do well with upcoming PF01's or Hoosiers.

[Kevin Patten]

Will my Alcoa super snake style wheels work with these ARP studs as long as I have open ended lug nuts?

Yes .

[frazierfreud]

Gettin stoked for some mods! Are the frpp hubs w/ arp lugs a hard install? I found one write up, but no pics.

[Kevin Patten]

Gettin stoked for some mods! Are the frpp hubs w/ arp lugs a hard install? I found one write up, but no pics.

The front hubs are easy if you are already doing your own front brake jobs - just pop off the center cap and have a 35MM or 36MM socket and a breaker bar along with a torque wrench that goes up to 250 FT/LBS . The hubs come with new axle nuts ( the old ones are not to be reused ) . As far as the rears go that's a little more involved because of having to pull the axles ( yes some guys snake the studs in past the bracket and use a nut/washer set up to pull them in - but that is not the correct way to doing it - if it does not get fully seated then you may find yourself with loose lug nuts after running the car ) and getting them pressed into the axles.

[svttim]

I snaked mine, have done them that way many times. Made sure they were seated and not to over torque them. Ill keep an eye on them the first couple times out.

 

From your story ff, I don't think bedding was the issue. Not sure what was but they should have beded in the time you had them

[frazierfreud]

what do you mean, you "snaked" yours? I'm not sure what to make of those pads. I don't inherently think they are a bad pad. however, half the front pad was gone after the track weekend which I thought was excessive and so did the tech guy at EBC. they gave me replacement pads, so i'll stick them on my wife's boss when her stock pads need replacing. she just drives on the street anyway.