Kevin Patten Posted May 11, 2014 Report Share Posted May 11, 2014 That's great Triumph. Using the BMR upper control arm mount and the Hotchkis UCA - correct ?? So that will put you with a spherical end @ the UCM . Are you still using the OEM rubber bushing at the top of the differential ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Triumph Posted May 11, 2014 Report Share Posted May 11, 2014 That's great Triumph. Using the BMR upper control arm mount and the Hotchkis UCA - correct ?? So that will put you with a spherical end @ the UCM . Are you still using the OEM rubber bushing at the top of the differential ? Yes and yes, hopefully it will work out well. Do you have a suggestion to changing the bushings on the differential? I figured it might not be necessary since hotchkis didn't include replacement bushings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin Patten Posted May 11, 2014 Report Share Posted May 11, 2014 You are probably safe with leaving the OEM bushing in the differential because of the use of a spherical end on the UCA . The bushing on the differential is voided on the top/bottom to allow for axle articulation which is also supplied by using the spherical on the UCA . If you feel that you are still getting too much axle rotation with the set up then you may decide to go with a poly bushing in the differential how ever there will be an increase in NVH (which you are going to get some increase already from the spherical) let us know about any increase in NVH along with any changes in hook up / bite once you have it in the car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Triumph Posted May 18, 2014 Report Share Posted May 18, 2014 Man it's been a crazy couple of days...I installed the BMR LCAs and UCA mount. Overall impressed with the quality however the photos on the directions left a bit to be desired. I only had minor fitment issues that required attention. On the '11+ UCA mount I had to remove the powdercoating from the welded on nut so it would clear the sleeve to bolt it in place under the rear seat. Also of note you will have to purchase a M18, pitch 2.5, length 70mm bolt if installing in a '07-'09 as it is not included with the BMR mount. By using the Hotchkis UCA I also had to enlarge the two other bracket holes to align to the car. I did not have to bend the seam on the gas tank, but did have to lower it to facilitate removal and install. I have driven roughly 150 miles without a noticeable increase in NVH ...however my car also has a one piece DS, lowering springs, and a Fays 2 watts link. I *think* it hooks better but my tires are pretty much toasted from my last track day. The Fays was the best improvement over stock, but the lowering springs and adjustable swaybars were a good 85percent solution. When the rear breaks loose in a turn it's because I am asking more out of the tires than they can offer but now at a higher speed. Very controllable and doesn't snap out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Triumph Posted May 18, 2014 Report Share Posted May 18, 2014 I'll post photos as soon as I can..away from my pc and my phone is being difficult. Stock mount on left BMR mount and Hotchkis UCA on right. Larger bolt is the one I had to buy. Last photo shows where the coating had to be removed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin Patten Posted May 18, 2014 Report Share Posted May 18, 2014 Man it's been a crazy couple of days...I installed the BMR LCAs and UCA mount. Overall impressed with the quality however the photos on the directions left a bit to be desired. I only had minor fitment issues that required attention. On the '11+ UCA mount I had to remove the powdercoating from the welded on nut so it would clear the sleeve to bolt it in place under the rear seat. Also of note you will have to purchase a M18, pitch 2.5, length 70mm bolt if installing in a '07-'09 as it is not included with the BMR mount. By using the Hotchkis UCA I also had to enlarge the two other bracket holes to align to the car. I did not have to bend the seam on the gas tank, but did have to lower it to facilitate removal and install. I have driven roughly 150 miles without a noticeable increase in NVH ...however my car also has a one piece DS, lowering springs, and a Fays 2 watts link. I *think* it hooks better but my tires are pretty much toasted from my last track day. The Fays was the best improvement over stock, but the lowering springs and adjustable swaybars were a good 85percent solution. When the rear breaks loose in a turn it's because I am asking more out of the tires than they can offer but now at a higher speed. Very controllable and doesn't snap out. Thanks Triumph for the update and pics ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert M Posted May 22, 2014 Report Share Posted May 22, 2014 I'll post photos as soon as I can..away from my pc and my phone is being difficult. Stock mount on left BMR mount and Hotchkis UCA on right. Larger bolt is the one I had to buy. Last photo shows where the coating had to be removed. Thanks for the pictures. That oem 18mm under seat bolt with the captured washer, Ford sells that bolt through the parts dept., I bought one for the 2011-up BMR when I installed it in my 2008. The larger through bolt that attaches the 2011-up oem UCA to the 2011-up oem UCM............that is a bolt that Ford does not sell separately. I think that 18mm with the captured washer was $10 or so including tax, maybe a little less? R Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Triumph Posted May 22, 2014 Report Share Posted May 22, 2014 You guys are welcome. Sorry I can't help with the price for the Ford bolt. The one I bought at a hardware store I think cost less than $5, and it was the high strength steel one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hunters1 Posted June 19, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 19, 2014 OK. I now have Fays2, BMR UCA, BMR lower relocation brackets, Eibach LCA. Have checked torque of all bolts and have aligned to spec. I do have a clunk on bumps at low speeds coming from rear. It does not seem to be present any other time, turns,braking, exceleration etc... My questions are about the Eibach LCA, adjustable (rear aligned and centered)- spherical and poly ends. I beleive that clunk is coming from them but, could also be from UCA? What is the correct bushing and bolt on procedure? Meaning the sleeve that travels through the bushing should be touching the sides of the bracket, not the bushing itself, correct? If the bolt hole is bigger on any part then use a washer to tighten bolt and reduce excess travel of bolt, correct? Is there an application of grease to be applied that perhaps I missed that would eliminate the clunk sound? (poly has zerk and grease with applicable synthetic grease) Or is this just normal (NVH) and will not cause any excessive part wear and or failure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ViperNC Posted June 19, 2014 Report Share Posted June 19, 2014 I had the same issue and it turned out to not be the LCA's. The Watts Link at low speed was making a little clunking noise as the arm moved. It just needed some grease at the pivot and everything was quiet thereafter. However, this apparently is routine maintenance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hunters1 Posted June 20, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2014 ViperNC Thanks will check tomorrow, that should be an easy fix. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ViperNC Posted June 20, 2014 Report Share Posted June 20, 2014 Hope it works out for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hunters1 Posted August 11, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 11, 2014 Just wanted to say I have finally accomplished what I set out to do. That was to have a much better suspension than stock. Trial and error was frustrating at times but, the information that was dispatched via this thread was invaluable. Thanks to all who brought all their years and knowledge to this topic. You guys rock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ViperNC Posted August 11, 2014 Report Share Posted August 11, 2014 Just wanted to say I have finally accomplished what I set out to do. That was to have a much better suspension than stock. Trial and error was frustrating at times but, the information that was dispatched via this thread was invaluable. Thanks to all who brought all their years and knowledge to this topic. You guys rock. Glad you are pleased. Where are you located again? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hunters1 Posted August 12, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 12, 2014 shalimar florida Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ViperNC Posted August 12, 2014 Report Share Posted August 12, 2014 Hmmm.... Maybe we need to get a South East group to meet up this fall and take a few days in the Mountains for foliage run. I know a great route. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hunters1 Posted September 6, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 6, 2014 I will point out that my issue with NVH was attributable to the installation of the Fays2. Had that and other components installed by others as I did not have drive on lift access at the time. I do now. So I put car on lift and began to reverse engineer how each item was installed, checked torque, inspected joints, etc. The Fays was not alligned properly. The driver side axel bar was off. No 1/4 inch spacer was used and thus causing some binding of helm joints. Fabbed a spacer and installed, corrected allignment and bingo all is good. The tech who installed UCA used wrong grease as well. Purged Bushing with correct grease. Trusting folks to install only goes so far and taking a second look at what may have been done will often correct a lot of the problems folks mention on these and other forums. The products are very good it is in the details. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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