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Paint Correction on your Mustang


joebob948

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I am getting brave in my old age and am wondering if any of you are just as daring ! I have noticed a few minor scratches and swirl marks on my '11 Shelby and am itching to use my Flex 3401 DA on her to get 100% correction. I have PRACTICED on my other 3 cars ( all Subarus ) to get up enough nerve to tackle this . Just wondering if any of you have taken the plunge on your "baby ". If so what do you feel is the best correction polish to use !!!!!!!

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Menzerna polishes and lake county pads, --> autogeek

 

I thought I went into extensive detail somewhere on here regarding pad, product and application. If not search my user name on Autogeek or autopia for info. BTW, you have hands down one of the best polishers made, nearly impossible to damage the finish with the correct compound (e.g. least aggressive).

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joebob948,

 

I went with a Griot's random orbital and Griot's polish, black pads and their Best of Show Wax. Very easy to apply/remove, and excellent results. Whatever product you choose, the key is a random orbital buffer; it works with you to protect the finish while doing its job.

Good luck with the project.

 

Quinn

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I've used Pinnacle products from AutoGeek with great results. They remove easier than Menzerna, and some others. The Flex DA should do a good job for you, with the right pads.

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I like to use Pinnacle as my LSP also.

I used Adam's Severe swirl Remover and their Fine Machine Polish and found them a little difficult to work with on my 08 Forester --was Not impressed. I then tried Wolfgang's 3.0 Total Swirl remover and their Finishing Glaze on my wife's 2002 Legacy Sedan and was pleasantly surprised on the ease of use ( very little dusting /easy on /easy off ) .Thinking about using the F Glaze to get rid of the fine scratches and swirl marks . Was recommended Menzerna products - esp SF 4000 for the fine swirls!!!!!!!!

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I've used Griots Garage polishes for years with good results. I got out all but the deepest scratches from the 08 Alloy Mustang I used to have using Griots. But dusting is an issue with their polishes. I have been trying out products from Chemical Guys and so far I love their stuff and their videos. But I haven't tried any of their polish compounds.

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I am getting brave in my old age and am wondering if any of you are just as daring ! I have noticed a few minor scratches and swirl marks on my '11 Shelby and am itching to use my Flex 3401 DA on her to get 100% correction. I have PRACTICED on my other 3 cars ( all Subarus ) to get up enough nerve to tackle this . Just wondering if any of you have taken the plunge on your "baby ". If so what do you feel is the best correction polish to use !!!!!!!

I've corrected 6 Shelby's of members of this forum and several outside this forum. Using both the flex and the porter cable.

 

The flex is the fastest and most effective using polish and compound.

Pros: speed and effectiveness. Flex takes polishes to a higher level of shine. While I'm mentioning shine. It is important to note that compounds remove deeper scratches and imperfections. But do not add shine. Just a polish can be used if you can get the desired results. And the polish adds the shine.

Cons: flex is a fixed rotation buffer. As a result it walks when you hit ridges, door handles and the like. (You may already experienced this on your Subies.) And if not careful will burn through the clear and paint very quickly. I know... I've done it. For that reason I always tape a car before correcting with a flex.

 

Now products... As you can see you have already been inundated with everyone's favorites. It happens all the time on this forum. I preach that process is much more important then product. My preference is Adams. http://www.adamspolishes.com/

 

But I've used Griots and many others. I like Pinnacles products too. http://www.pinnaclewax.com/

And Wolfgang. http://www.wolfgangcarcare.com/

These are expensive but well worth the money. Especially the Fuzion wax from Wolfgang. The Souveran from Pinnacle is top shelf wax too.

 

I like Adams because it is not as expensive as Pinnacle and Wolfgang. Is equal in cost to Griots. The other reason I like Adams is that it is scented. Call me silly, but that means a lot to me when I'm immersed in the product for hours on end.

 

Have fun choosing! But remember process is more important than product!

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Gator did the most amazing detail on my ride....removed every scratch and swirl to perfection......restored to beyond factory new....way beyond......

 

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh83/mywickedshelby/175a.jpg

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh83/mywickedshelby/190a.jpg

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh83/mywickedshelby/190a.jpg

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like a few posted, it's the process. i have a PC and 3401 as well as mini Griot's. choosing the right pads for each step along with the right product. Lake Country CCS pads are great. Detailed Image site has a section where detailers have posted many detail sessions with the pads and products they've uses. very informative.

 

lots of products out there!!! Pinnacle, Menzerna, Sonax, etc.

 

pads as well, orange, white, black, etc.

 

i've seen fantastic results with an aggressive polish (sonax pro) on an orange ccs pad with a PC on speed 1 - 1.5 (light pressure) ((more pressure on any marks), then Klasse with a black pad on the same speed, sealed by hand and topped with Poorboy's Natty's Red on my friends Challenger SRT8. i would have thought he used a higher speed, etc.

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I have been switching over to AMMO really like their products so far, and now he has his own line of polishes I would like to give a go sometime. Also would like to step up to a Flex or Rupes polisher.

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i've seen fantastic results with an aggressive polish (sonax pro) on an orange ccs pad with a PC on speed 1 - 1.5 (light pressure) ((more pressure on any marks), then Klasse with a black pad on the same speed, sealed by hand and topped with Poorboy's Natty's Red on my friends Challenger SRT8. i would have thought he used a higher speed, etc.

 

Wow - I'm surprised anything happens at all in the way of correction on such a low speed. I would think that LSP application at that speed is even slow. I usually cut at 5-6 speed to get enough power to compensate for the pressure. Always mark the backing plate with an ink line so you can be sure it's rotating. I'll bet at such a low speed, it's simply only vibrating most of the time.

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I use this reference all the time, hope this helps. BTW unless the paint has been abused a flex and SF4000 and SF4500 will correct nearly any finish. Below is a recommended pad and product chart.

 

http://www.autopiaforums.com/forums/detail-institute-presented-autopia-carcare-com/41571-menzerna-polish-lake-country-pad-reference-guide-new.html

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I have been switching over to AMMO really like their products so far, and now he has his own line of polishes I would like to give a go sometime. Also would like to step up to a Flex or Rupes polisher.

Larry is a great guy. I've chatted with him several times. He's very helpful. Have never used there his products, but I'm sure they are top notch.

 

Let me know if you do get some.

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I use this reference all the time, hope this helps. BTW unless the paint has been abused a flex and SF4000 and SF4500 will correct nearly any finish. Below is a recommended pad and product chart.

 

http://www.autopiaforums.com/forums/detail-institute-presented-autopia-carcare-com/41571-menzerna-polish-lake-country-pad-reference-guide-new.html

Thanks Ecrissman, this really helps as I am intending to try Menzerna polishes on my next detail !!!!!!!

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This is something I need to do on mine as well. Definitely have some noticable swirl marks that need to be taken care of. Really excited to see what my car will look like all polished up and buffed. I want to get the orange peel look out and get it looking smooth as glass.

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If you want to remove orange peel on a factory paint job - well...you cant. You can make it better, but if you try to go all the way you will burn through as the factory clear is really thin. You have to wet sand the entire car and buff all the sanding scratches out. Your paint is hard like a rock and this is no easy chore. It would be easier to respray it and start from that point.

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I had bad marks in my paint from the dealer before I bought it. I didn't see the marks all over it at the time.

 

After the SA modificatuions I went to work on the paint.

 

I have a Meguiars dual action buffer. I tried Swirl X and Ultimate Polish to no avail. Then I used their Ultimate Compound on a speed setting of 3.5 and had great results removing swirls and fine scratches. I am very pleased with hpw it turned out.

 

I ended up using painters tape to block off the edges of my vinyl stripes prior to the work.

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Larry is a great guy. I've chatted with him several times. He's very helpful. Have never used there his products, but I'm sure they are top notch.

 

Let me know if you do get some.

 

I for sure will. I watch all his YouTube vids and would love to be able to watch him in person on one of his correction jobs and get to see his whole process and discuss as he goes. He sure takes care of some beautiful and rare cars. So far im hooked on his paint regimen and hear nothing but good reviews on his "Mud" tire dressing that I hope to try also soon.

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Gator did the most amazing detail on my ride....removed every scratch and swirl to perfection......restored to beyond factory new....way beyond......

 

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh83/mywickedshelby/175a.jpg

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh83/mywickedshelby/190a.jpg

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh83/mywickedshelby/190a.jpg

:salute:

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I for sure will. I watch all his YouTube vids and would love to be able to watch him in person on one of his correction jobs and get to see his whole process and discuss as he goes. He sure takes care of some beautiful and rare cars. So far im hooked on his paint regimen and hear nothing but good reviews on his "Mud" tire dressing that I hope to try also soon.

Thanks...

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Ultimate Compound is good stuff, and it's BUBBA proof!

Before/after Megs UC - orange Megs Pad, Porter Cable, speed 5-6, 9 passes

IMG_20130527_124537.jpgIMG_20130527_124531.jpg

9 passes! That's insanity.... :drop:

 

You need a flex or a more aggressive compound. Shouldn't take more than 2 passes.

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