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Safe 800 rwhp with add ons possible ?


Micho2011

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i admit i'm no expert on this topic, but here's what i believe... 800 rear wheel horsepower equates to at least 900 flywheel horsepower (at a minimum). to get there, you'll need extra fuel delivery capacity (stock pumps and injectors aren't enough) along with increased air intake capacity. so you'll need a serious blower putting a shit ton of pressure through the engine. that will cause an increase in heat production, which will require improved cooling on an already heat-soak prone engine. assuming you reach those kind of numbers, you will need an upgraded clutch to transmit that kind of power to a drive shaft that must be upgraded to also handle that kind of power, which will then require seriously sticky tires to put that power to the ground, which will then require sub-frame connectors to reduce the amount of chassis flex you will experience with that kind of power. to be safe, you may want to rebuild the entire engine with a sturdier crankshaft, rods, pistons, cams, etcetera. and there's a chance the tranny may need to be upgraded, as well, depending on how you intend to drive the car. and we haven't even begun to talk about suspension components or brakes. shelby american has already dealt with this issue with the "Shelby 1000" so you can probably read up on that to better understand what they had to do to achieve it.

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You want that much hp and you want your car to last? Prepare to spend just as much as you did for the car in aftermarket parts, wth do you think I'm doing, I'm one of the first to ask this in the site... I can send you the link to it if you want for what 8 or so people said.

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You should be able to get by with around 700rwhp or so, with a stock motor that is mostly for street use and occasional strip use.

With the mods you have listed and at a conservative altitude, you will be not too far off of that, especially if you have a larger throttle body as well.

If you go beyond that, you should look into mods such as 2007tungstenGT500 has described.

Keep in mind that a true 700rwhp is a pretty decent hp level, and is definitely enough to get the car well into the 10s.

That is of course if you can get it to hook up :)

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  • 1 month later...

is a safe 800 rwhp possible without building engine, just with add ons? I have vmp tvs, 2.4 pulley, 90 mm idler vmp elbow, what would i need to add to this to make 800 rwhp?

........to be a bit more succint......NO, 800 rwhp requires more than what is commonly referred to as "add ons" to be perfectly safe under all conditions.

 

That being said, it is certainly achieveable without measures that are too extreme, although as others have said, for street use only, even my 695rwhp is too much. Even at my level, I am running without cats (high pressures and temps destroy them readily and the fragments can clog things up, leading to engine destruction) and I am now using 72# injectors. At 800 rwhp, including drivetrain power losses and the power needed to spin the supercharger at those pressures, your engine rotating assembly is really at levels exceeding 1000 true hp prior to parasitic losses. Most would go ahead and beef up their bottom end to be on the safe side.

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Call Van @ Revan Racing he will get you there and get you there safely. I went with a Kenne Bell. Van has been racing these cars for quite awhile now and knows the recipe.

He retuned my Super Snake. 3.6 blower, 175mm TB, 5" air intake.....all from Kenne Bell......712 rwhp

 

dynorungraph_zpsf750ebb3.jpg

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