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Looking for Final answer on ending wheel hop


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This should get your tires spinning with no wheel hop and the car tracking straight

  • Steeda Adjustable Upper Rear Control Arm
  • Steeda Extreme Duty Billitt Lower Control Arms
  • Maximum Motorsports Adjustable Pan Hard Bar
  • H&R Rear Lowering Springs
  • Steeda lower control arm relocation brackets (welded)
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Look at my suspension upgrades. No upper control arm upgrade necessary and stock shocks work fine for the street. I have ZERO wheel hop now and was just as annoyed as you are now prior to making these changes. The billet aluminum also provides a very pleasing and clean look aesthetically speaking.

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Shelby Anti-Wheel Hop Rear control arm relocation bracket solved the problem at minimal cost and little change in quality of ride.

 

I didn't come up with this solution... It was recommended to me by JDM Engineering out of Freehold NJ. They are a very respected high performance mustang shop. And told me welding was not necessary unless I did serious drag racing with greater HP.

 

Cost $150 and did it myself in a few hours. 100% satisfied.

 

http://www.shelbystore.com/product-p/z25-s5ma-3000-a.htm

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Shelby Anti-Wheel Hop Rear control arm relocation bracket solved the problem at minimal cost and little change in quality of ride.

 

I didn't come up with this solution... It was recommended to me by JDM Engineering out of Freehold NJ. They are a very respected high performance mustang shop. And told me welding was not necessary unless I did serious drag racing with greater HP.

 

Cost $150 and did it myself in a few hours. 100% satisfied.

 

http://www.shelbystore.com/product-p/z25-s5ma-3000-a.htm

 

The Roush "anti-wheel hop" upper control arm is supposed to be the ideal fix too.

 

It sounds like all you have to do is take ONE of the two 'soft spots' (control arm bushings) out of the equation to find success.

 

I never had wheel hop from the get go but I have a 2010 and hear it was changed so the wheel hop 'problem' was eliminated or greatly reduced over the Gen 1 GT500's.

 

 

Phill

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A pair of billet LCAs with poly bushings alone cured that on my 08.

Get yourself a set with grease nipples on them, so you can keep them lubed up and quiet with a good suspension grease like Prothane Super Grease.

 

I upgraded the UCA later on, but that was mostly because I was in there to upgrade the flimsy stock UCA bracket, as I wanted to run 325 drag radials at the strip.

Both control arms have the poly bushings and will add a little more vibration into the car, but not to the extent where I would find it bothersome.

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Weak link is really the lowers. If you think about it, the torque of the axle pushes the LCA's and pulls un the UCL. All good advise above ranging in price, but the direct fix is the bushings in the LCA's. Replace with just about any good LCA and be done with wheel hop. There are a dozen ways to skin the same cat.

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You can replace the rear lower control arms by themselves but check to see if they are parallel to the ground when the car is sitting on the ground if they are not parallel then you will need to buy the LCA relocate brackets to make them parallel . Yes you can use the Roush UCA as a fix but read the fine print - not for a lowered vehicle - either way will work however going with the lowers is the preferred method because there is less of an increase in NVH . Some do both in severe wheel hop situations . JMO

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A search should have provided you with what is already posted and much more. But the answer, above and beyond any equipment or tires you can put on your car, is as basic as it gets. I am 63. Back in the 60's we had cars with tons of power and little in the way of tires to deal with the issue. We learned how to bring our cars off the line in a way that avoided spinning the tires at all, let alone ending up with wheel hop. Once you start into wheel hop, the only thing that will stop it is getting off the throttle. Practice with your car coming off the line with less than full power to get the initial "bite" and roll going, then add power rapidly but progressively until you are at full power. Once you learn the technique, it will be seamless and, believe me, you will have full control of your car, come off the line faster, and be able to apply all your power in a usable fashion. The whole process is imperceptible to anyone who does not know what you are doing. The only thing they will notice is you off the line faster than they are. Now, if your goal is just to smoke your tires but without the wheel hop, adding the equipment and tires suggested here will do it. If you are racing and time matters, try what I have suggested. Good luck.

 

Jim

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+1 it's the squishy control arm brackets that cause the wheelhop. Change the bushings for $90, problem fixed.

Secondo, Where did you buy the bushings at? I'd like to give that a try first...No sense in spending a fortune if I don't have to...

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Also, did you change out the bushing that is pressed into the axle housing as well?

I just picked up a new svt rear axle assembly and it did come with a new oem style rubber one, but separate and not installed into the housing.

Good time to make the change to the poly one if it is worthwhile.

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Also, did you change out the bushing that is pressed into the axle housing as well?

I just picked up a new svt rear axle assembly and it did come with a new oem style rubber one, but separate and not installed into the housing.

Good time to make the change to the poly one if it is worthwhile.

I did not change the housing bushing. It didn't need it.
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Thanks, have ordered the poly bushings for the upper and lower control arms and figured I may as well replace the ones in the pan hard bar while I'm under there...they are on the way from Spohn.net...Thanks again...I figure I'll start simple and see what happens from there...Thanks for all the replies gentlemen...this truly is a great site!

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It's not easy to get the stock bushings out. The instructions that came with mine said to burn them out. I used a torch but it wasn't fun. In hindsight I recommend using a holesaw to drill them out. Make sure you put lots of bushing grease on the new ones. PM me if you need a quick answer or help.

Edited by Secondo
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It's not easy to get the stock bushings out. The instructions that came with mine said to burn them out. I used a torch but it wasn't fun. In hindsight I recommend using a holesaw to drill them out. Make sure you put lots of bushing grease on the new ones. PM me if you need a quick answer or help.

RATS...I was hoping that it wouldn't be all that hard to get the old ones out....back to the drawing board I guess....had I known that, I probably would have just ordered a set of lower control arms with new urethane bushings already in them.

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RATS...I was hoping that it wouldn't be all that hard to get the old ones out....back to the drawing board I guess....had I known that, I probably would have just ordered a set of lower control arms with new urethane bushings already in them.

 

If you have access to a press, that's the *right* way to get them in/out.

 

If not, I've used a big hammer and a socket (the right size to fit the bushing housing) and beat them out.

 

The one in the diff housing uses a special "puller" that is basically a piece of all-thread with dies on either end to pull it out.

 

It's not hard. No need to cut or torch them out.

 

 

Phill

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Phill,

As far as I know the factory rubber bushings are bonded and you can't just press them out.

 

Steve

 

Are we talking about the LCA & UCA?

 

There's a steel shell the bushings are bonded into. I've pressed hundreds, quite literally. Not on a GT500 specifically but on just about every car out there including early mustangs.

 

I still have my OEM lower control arms and upper third link and they're steel shelled. I'm sick as a dog right now but as soon as I feel better I'll pull one off of my shelf to double check but I'm about 99.9% sure they're steel shell/bodied.

 

 

Phill

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Phill,

You are 100% correct. The factory bushings are shelled. I just pulled mine off the shelf to check. I know on the factory bushing on the diff if you want to use a BMR poly bushing you have to remove the rubber from the shell and reuse the shell. Although I've never done it Secondo's way, if his instructions said to burn out the rubber, my guess is that the original shell, minus rubber, must be reused. So you can press the shell, but not the rubber.

 

Also, get better.

 

Steve

Edited by 54First
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