ICOOLUM Posted July 10, 2013 Report Share Posted July 10, 2013 I want to upgrade my 2013 suspension. What suggestions would you have? I was going to start with some Steeda sport springs that would lower it. Should I add upgraded or adjustable Upper and lower control arms, panhard bar, would I get anything from aftermarket sway bars? I have the adjustable suspension from factory and track pack. Lets hear it guys. I have a great 20 mile winding road home and to work everyday. Car has gobs of power but would like to have it handle as good as it can for a "stick axle" car. Thanks, Kevin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frydguy79 Posted July 10, 2013 Report Share Posted July 10, 2013 lowers should work and take a look @ the shelby billet watts link.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DubbsFaris Posted July 10, 2013 Report Share Posted July 10, 2013 LCAs and a Watts would help considerably! Im not sure I would lower the car though. Keep in mind that Ford did quite a bit of suspension tuning, and unless you plan on scrapping the whole setup, changing things like that will have ripple effects. When I heard the 2013 GT500 was actually quicker around VMR than their Ford GT time, I figured Ford had a pretty damn good setup. Now if you are looking to drag the car, then thats a different story altogether. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jer Posted July 10, 2013 Report Share Posted July 10, 2013 LCAs and a Watts link are a great setup. BTW, even Car and Driver, who are NOTORIOUS for bashing the live axle, have admitted that Ford got it right. So there's no need to hang your head around the IRS guys. Jer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xeongt Posted July 10, 2013 Report Share Posted July 10, 2013 Problem is the suspension components on the GT500 are generally the exact same ones used on the V6 Mustangs :-/ I did UCA/LCA/mounts/braces/Panhard/springs myself. Laying the stock components next to the BMR ones was hilarious, the Ford pieces were so flimsy looking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Harman Posted July 10, 2013 Report Share Posted July 10, 2013 Problem is the suspension components on the GT500 are generally the exact same ones used on the V6 Mustangs :-/ I did UCA/LCA/mounts/braces/Panhard/springs myself. Laying the stock components next to the BMR ones was hilarious, the Ford pieces were so flimsy looking.Your setup is what most people are doing, beefing up the stock parts is always a good move. I plan on doing the same thing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ICOOLUM Posted July 10, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 10, 2013 Thanks Guys, I love the input from all of you that have experience with this car. I've always owned 60's hotrods. Nobody has mentioned sway bar upgrades. Is this because the performance pkg sway bars are already about as heavy as you can get? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2010KonaBlueGT Posted July 10, 2013 Report Share Posted July 10, 2013 Problem is the suspension components on the GT500 are generally the exact same ones used on the V6 Mustangs :-/ I haven't found that to be true. Different (stronger) A-arms, lower ball joints, lower control arms, firmer (higher durometer) strut mounts, jounce bumpers, springs, shocks, struts, sway bars, etc. etc. etc. The only parts I can think of that are common to the Mustang (V-6) are tie-rod ends and third link (UCA), and I'm not even sure about the 3rd link. Phill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Haney Posted July 13, 2013 Report Share Posted July 13, 2013 I have a 13 also with SVTPP and TP. I went with the FRPP lowering springs, part number M-5300-L. The reason for this is Ford recommends these springs to work in conjunction with the electronic dampers. With the springs installed the ride quality in the Normal mode feels similar to what it was in the Sport mode with the stock springs. In Sport mode with these springs the ride is starting to get harsh for daily driving, the wife doesn't like it. LOL Yes, you will at least need an adjustable panhard rod to center the rear axle after lowering the car. This doesn't matter who springs you use, you will need to do this mod in conjunction with the springs. For the rear suspension on my car, I went with CorteX Racing for the parts in the rear suspension. I used their Watts Link, Torque Arm and Lower Control Arms with the Relocation Brackets with all spherical bearings at all the mounting points. The Torque Arm eliminates the factory Upper Control Arm. I'm using the stock rear SVTPP sway bar. To use the CorteX Racing parts you will need to do some plumbing modifications for the rear axle differential oil cooler and axle housing vent. For the front suspension I went with Maximum Motorsport Caster/ Camber plates for the adjust-ability and an Eibach sway bar, along with Roush steering rack stops for increased tire size clearance. The sway bar has three adjustments for stiffness, I have it set in the middle position. This is theoretically a 1mm increase in the bar diameter over the stock SVTPP bar at this setting and allows me to either adjust it stiffer or softer. The Roush steering stops do limit the steering inputs, but this is only noticeable at slow speeds while trying to fit into tight parking spaces in a parking lot If you want a car that can accelerate hard off a corner, while handling great this combination is the ticket. In my opinion this is a very street worthy combo. As with any suspension modifications there is a slight increase in Noise, Harmonics and Vibration in the cabin of the car. The most pronounced noise is the Torque Arm, the TA will thump the tunnel floor as the rear is bouncing off of the backlash of the rear axle gear set as you transition from no load to load at low power levels and road speeds in the lower gears of the transmission. At highway speeds this doesn't happen and it is quiet. You have to ask yourself how much NVH are you willing to live with to make the car handle better than stock, before you buy anything. In my opinion the NVH increase that I am experiencing is minimal for the modifications that I've done to the car. I was expecting the NVH to be higher than the are with the parts I'm using. I also installed much larger tires for more grip. Michelin Pilot Super Sports tires, the front tire size and wheel is 285/35ZR20 on a 20 x 10, the rear tire size and wheel are is a 315/35ZR20 on a 11 x 20. The only problem I've found with this set up is that your exit speeds on a corner are so much faster that you will get a speeding/wreckless driving ticket, if a Law Enforcement Officer sees you taking advantage of these mods to the fullest potential on the street. Clover leaf On/Off Ramps are a lot of fun, but taking them at 60 or 70 Mph draws attention quickly LOL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ICOOLUM Posted July 16, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 16, 2013 Wow, Lots of great info there Mr Haney. I appreciate your input, and suggestions Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.