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Shelby Extreme Brake Install


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I installed the Baer Extreme brakes and SGT brake duct kit today. Bled the brakes and thought all was good to go, but I'm getting seepage at the bleeders on one side. I've taken them out and cleaned them and reinstalled twice but they keep leaking brake fluid. Anybody have any tips on how to correct this? I'd really appreciate any help from anybody that has encountered this or done the extreme brake install. I'll post some pictures after I get them downloaded off my phone. Thanks,Dave

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I installed the Baer Extreme brakes and SGT brake duct kit today. Bled the brakes and thought all was good to go, but I'm getting seepage at the bleeders on one side. I've taken them out and cleaned them and reinstalled twice but they keep leaking brake fluid. Anybody have any tips on how to correct this? I'd really appreciate any help from anybody that has encountered this or done the extreme brake install. I'll post some pictures after I get them downloaded off my phone. Thanks,Dave

 

 

I'm not going to repeat myself..Again, so I'll just tell you that there is a old revived thread and a current ongoing thread on this topic.

 

The search engine is your friend...Or just scroll down the "View New Content" list.

 

 

Phill

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Here you go Dave!

 

http://www.teamshelby.com/forums/index.php/topic/66087-new-extreme-front-brakes-installed-but-leaking/

 

Also, when I installed my SpeedBleeders in my Brembo calipers, there is a small amount of sealant that comes on them from the company... However, you can buy a small tube ($10) of it to use when the original sealant wears out :-)

 

picture_004.jpg

 

http://www.speedbleeder.zoovy.com/c=8pFBco9aQn3Wk8I9s79hKRTuK/product/THREADSEALANT/Sealant.html

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I'm not going to repeat myself..Again, so I'll just tell you that there is a old revived thread and a current ongoing thread on this topic.

 

The search engine is your friend...Or just scroll down the "View New Content" list.

 

 

Phill

 

Thanks for the info. I'm on the forum a lot and to be honest never read anything on this. Now I know.

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Here you go Dave!

 

http://www.teamshelb...ed-but-leaking/

 

Also, when I installed my SpeedBleeders in my Brembo calipers, there is a small amount of sealant that comes on them from the company... However, you can buy a small tube ($10) of it to use when the original sealant wears out :-)

 

picture_004.jpg

 

http://www.speedblee...NT/Sealant.html

 

So you just coat the threads on the bleeder screw with this and it seals it?
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Thanks for the info. I'm on the forum a lot and to be honest never read anything on this. Now I know.

 

 

If I had half a brain, and could use a search engine efficiantly, I would have linked you to it.

 

But for some reason I can't find my own ASS with a search engine....

 

 

Phill

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Great info.

Glad you asked the question Dave.

We are all here to learn.

 

Thanks Zachman. I spoke to Rick at Baer and he is going to send me some new bleeder screws and I may try the sealant Greg recommended. I'll report the results, hopefully they will be good :)

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Thanks for the info. I'm on the forum a lot and to be honest never read anything on this. Now I know.

 

 

It seems to be a pretty common problem with Baers.

 

Leaking bleeders AND noisy pads, initially.

 

 

Phill

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If I had half a brain, and could use a search engine efficiantly, I would have linked you to it.

 

But for some reason I can't find my own ASS with a search engine....

 

 

Phill

 

No problem. I read some of the info on this today and appreciate your posts. Reading it was helpful. If you see my post above this one I'm going to wait for the new screws and then use your loosen re-tighten method and hope it works.

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I'm sure that sealant will help, but...

 

In my industry (Oil Refining) we sometimes use carefully applied strips of teflon tape to pipe threads on all kinds of things, including pump seal piping etc that gets REALLY hot. It works great. Guaranteed, but (isn't there always a but?) you need to make dead sure not to let the tape get into the process. The last thing you want is line pluggage on your brakes! If you tightly wrap the tape, leaving the 1st thread naked, give it twice around snugly in the direction of the threads, clock-wise as you look at the end, and I promise you it will be perfect, virtually forever. You can buy it at any hardware store, sort of expensive, but a litlle dab'll do ya! A roll will last for years.

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One other tip is to check the end of the bleeder screws. On Russell Speed Bleeders, for example, the tip should NOT be totally pointy, but ground (evenly) flat about 2mm back from where a point would be. Even a LITTLE flash on the end of the bleeder will prevent it from sitting snug at the bottom of the bleeder channel. David, let me know how the replacement bleeders work, and keep in touch - we'll get you going, no worries. Or should I say STOPPING? Jer

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Just an FYI, when I did my Extremes last year, I thought it was leaking from the bleeder and it ended up being the top piston seal. Baer had to express ship me a new caliper. Once the new caliper was on no more problems. They found just a tiny fragment or shaving when the seal was pressed in that caused the leak. The seals in these calipers are very sensitive to any contaminant, fortunately for us Shelby has a good partner with Baer and they made things right ASAP.

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Just an FYI, when I did my Extremes last year, I thought it was leaking from the bleeder and it ended up being the top piston seal. Baer had to express ship me a new caliper. Once the new caliper was on no more problems. They found just a tiny fragment or shaving when the seal was pressed in that caused the leak. The seals in these calipers are very sensitive to any contaminant, fortunately for us Shelby has a good partner with Baer and they made things right ASAP.

So to be clear on your comment I'm talking about the small hole at the top of the bleeder screw, as that is where I'm getting leaking at, not the pistons that I can see anyway.
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Just an FYI, when I did my Extremes last year, I thought it was leaking from the bleeder and it ended up being the top piston seal. Baer had to express ship me a new caliper. Once the new caliper was on no more problems. They found just a tiny fragment or shaving when the seal was pressed in that caused the leak. The seals in these calipers are very sensitive to any contaminant, fortunately for us Shelby has a good partner with Baer and they made things right ASAP.

 

Uh oh. That's not good to hear.

 

I better check mine. I have a "line" that forms around the inside of the rim that doesn't coincide with either bleeder screw. I clean it off and it returns. I just figured it was a bleeder and the fluid was running off to one side and I needed to attend to it. It's a LOT closer to where a piston would leak than a bleeder (or where the halfs meet).

 

I better give it a real good look and see where it's coming from (Left/front only).

 

 

Phill

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Uh oh. That's not good to hear.

 

I better check mine. I have a "line" that forms around the inside of the rim that doesn't coincide with either bleeder screw. I clean it off and it returns. I just figured it was a bleeder and the fluid was running off to one side and I needed to attend to it. It's a LOT closer to where a piston would leak than a bleeder (or where the halfs meet).

 

I better give it a real good look and see where it's coming from (Left/front only).

 

That's we're I was leaking but it was bad right out of the shoot. It would almost empty the brake reservoir overnight. At first Baers tech line said no way their caliper could be leaking, it had to be the line or bleeder. I ended up sending pictures and the caliper and shure enough, the seal was contaminated. They pressed it out pressed in a new one and eureka, I haven't had a leak since. To clarify, you may have a bleeder leak, I was just saying make sure that's where it's coming from, in my case it was really hard to tell. Use some soapy water or brake clean, get everything nice and clean and dry. I used a can of compressed air that you clean your computer key board to help dry the caliper to make sure there was no moisture in the nooks and crannies to run out later. Once dry then I could really tell where the leak actually came from. Initially the way the fluid ran down it seemed like the bleeder. Just something for you to check out since your having trouble getting it stopped. Note I did not use speed bleeders so to Jer and a few others points the tapered end could be the culprit.

 

Phill

 

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So I ended up getting the Speed Bleeder sealant Greg mentioned in post #3 and I called Baer and Rick sent me a newer version bleeder screw. As you can see in the picture the old screw on the left is a little thinner and a bit longer than the other. It would wobble in the caliper and didn't seat. I coated the sealant on the new screws leaving the first couple of threads uncoated. You bake them in the oven for 10 minutes @ 200 degrees, let them cool and they are ready to go. th_BleederScrew.jpgth_BleederScrews2.jpg We torqued to 25 lbs, at least, test drove it and so far so good. No leaks. th_BrakeCaliper1.jpgth_Brakes1.jpgth_Brakes5.jpg

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Also during the brake install we installed the SGT brake duct kit. I already had the bezels on my car with the PIAA driving lights so it was a matter of putting on the backing plates and running the duct work. As a previous posted said don't follow the instructions about cutting the duct work to 28" We measured twice and cut it long and then turned the wheels as far as they would go to make sure it flexed and the clearance was good and then cut off about 3 more inches. I posted a few pictures of the install.

th_Brakeduct2.jpgth_Brakeduct4.jpg

Tight next to passenger side driving lights, but it fits. th_Brakeduct3.jpg

th_Brakeduct8.jpgth_Brakeduct1.jpgAttached to the sway bar and chassi, but the zip ties weren't long enough, had to zip them together and then buy another one.

th_Brakeduct5.jpgth_Brakeduct7.jpg

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