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Next Stage?


venom

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I have 3K on my '08 500 and I was initially running a custom offroad X and catback from SW with a Lund tune.

 

Just threw on the new JLT Big Air CAI (127mm carbon fiber) and updated Lund tune.

 

Love hearing the supercharger wine but it's not as loud as I expected. So is what I have now considered "stage 2?"

 

I'm now thinking of going to the next stage and adding a smaller pulley and again updating the tune.

 

Thoughts, suggestions on brands and extras I need to buy if any?

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Evolution performance sells a great Stage 2 kit. Comes with everything you need; Lund tune, Metco idler and supercharger pulleys and NGK plugs. You have a Stage 1. It'll probably add about 40HP. Tell them you already have the tuner, JLT 127mm CAI and the custom exhaust. Gives you the most bang for your buck. I got 556WHP w/mine.

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Yes, I installed mine. It's not a bad job if you have mechanical ability. They also sell the supercharger pulley removal/installation tool. I have one if you want to borrow it. The plugs are easy to change- see this thread:

 

http://www.teamshelby.com/forums/index.php/topic/48326-54l-4v-spark-plug-change-step-by-step-instructions/

 

There are topics on SVT Performance Forum on changing the pulley.

 

Let me know if you have any more questions.

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Secondo. I looked at Evolution and the Stage 2 comes with idler and NGK replacement plugs and says adds 4 lbs of boost over stock.

 

VMP's new 2.5" pulley costs 149, add more boost (13-14psi) and it doesn't look like I need to install the idler or plugs for that pulley right?

 

Seems like VMP has more power/boost and requires less modification? Am I mis-stating something?

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If you want to keep running the stock length belt, you will need to run their idler pulley with that VMP 2.5" upper.

Their idler takes the place of your stock one.

Looks like they now have a 100mm idler for that small pulley, I believe I have the 90mm one with my older 2.6" pulley.

 

If the car has a few years on it, a plug change is a good idea in any case.

It gives you a chance to get the old ones out and new ones in with some anti-seize.

Just make sure you use it sparingly, and never on the first few threads of the plug, you don't want that stuff getting into the motor if possible.

The colder plug is better for high boost and frequent strip use, the warmer plug is better for everyday stop and go driving and probably a better choice for a daily driver.

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or, just buy a 10$ overdrive crank dampner, lift the car and replace you 25 pound oem one with a lighter bigger one, get a 2.7 steeda pulley and idler, then you will be at 14-15 boost easily, either way you go your going to need to get a better heat exchanger, get a c/r from revanracing. it is a huge difference

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Oh man I definitely don't want to have to invest in a better heat exchanger.

 

I guess I thought I'd get a nice "seat of the pants" boot when I added the JLT 127mm and tune but I can hardly tell. Almost feels a tad slower than the original Lund tune with my OR-X and SW catback? Strange I know.

 

I can't get the boost gauge to move when I stomped on it in 1st. To the floor WOT throttle in second and the guage moves to about 7-8 psi but you have to pretty much nail it for that to happen.

 

IS THAT NORMAL?

 

I guess I don't want to go through the added expenses and $ just to hear more supercharger whine. I guess my SW exhaust is just TOO LOUD! :)

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The 2.5" pulley, 90mm idler and tune from VMP, it is a great bang for the buck mod.

Btw, I wouldn't count on your oem boost gauge as being super accurate either.

Once you get enough power in the car, you will be too busy to look down at it anyways :)

The 10% over balancer is a nice option down the road, but that will set you back another $650 and then you need to start looking at better injectors, which can easily go into the $700+ range themselves.

If you really want to make a decent power jump, pick up a VMP 2.3L TVS with the 2.4" pulley and consider getting a bigger throttle body.

I am still running the stock heat exchanger with no issues, but that one depends on the climate where you live.

Multiple times I have run 20+ passes in a single day at the strip, including several back to back runs with no obvious power loss from heat soak.

Getting the car to hook up is a whole other story though.

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Oem injectors are capable of up to 700rwhp. No he wouldn't, all he'd need to do is spark plugs maybe from the amount of boosts. Even then a 10% lower is something you can keep till the cars end. If he's maxing out his blower then he should just get the MVP sleeve and cj 65mm throttle body. That's a guarantee slip and slide when wot in 2nd if he does all of this and will prolly be at high 500 rwhp

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Your boost is lower from the exhaust you don't need as much pressure pushing from the top, I'm in the same boat as you I can only hear mine if I floor it at 2000rpm in 6th. I'm getting a 2.8lc in a couple months

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Took the car out for it's 3rd spin since putting the JLT Big Air CAI on and it threw a code.

 

Plugged in the X-CAL3 and says P0171. Searched and it suggests that engine is running lean??

 

Suggestions?

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Call whoever you got the tune from and tell them they should send a new 1

 

 

Jon Lund II. Guess I'll get on the horn tomorrow and do exactly that tomorrow.

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Secondo. I looked at Evolution and the Stage 2 comes with idler and NGK replacement plugs and says adds 4 lbs of boost over stock.

 

VMP's new 2.5" pulley costs 149, add more boost (13-14psi) and it doesn't look like I need to install the idler or plugs for that pulley right?

 

Seems like VMP has more power/boost and requires less modification? Am I mis-stating something?

 

A few companies sell their stage 2 equivalents. The boost is about the same 3-4psi with 2.5-2.6 pulley and you'll need the idler pulley to compensate for the slack in the belt (or get a shorter belt) and need the plugs for the increased boost. The pulley is worth about 38WHP with the stock Eaton blower.

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A few companies sell their stage 2 equivalents. The boost is about the same 3-4psi with 2.5-2.6 pulley and you'll need the idler pulley to compensate for the slack in the belt (or get a shorter belt) and need the plugs for the increased boost. It's worth about 38WHP with the stock Eaton blower.

 

 

Can I get away with the stock cooling/intercooler system? That would be a deal breaker for me. Trying to keep the car as stock as I can as this is only a weekend warrior/Sunday-driver :)

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You can, but if the outdoor temperature is hot and you are on the gas for a while the car will most likely pull timing to prevent detonation. I think you'll be ok if its a weekend warrior car. (I won't mention the Sunday-driver thing, lol) ;)

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I have had a Stage 2 kit on my car for 4 years. JLT CAI/2.6 pulley/Tune/NGK TR6 plugs/idler

 

The heat exchanger upgrade IS NOT REQUIRED. Yes it would help avoid heat soak, but not required. I am not using one and have not experienced heat soak(Houston area=HOT and HUMID summers). If your are not making WOT pulls back to back to back, you won't have a problem. You can use a Reisch 170* thermostat and change fan settings with your handheld tuner. Add some Amsoil Dominator Coolant Boost (in intercooler also) and this will help keep the car cooler.

 

The idler is required, not a big deal though.

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