ballinsoldier Posted December 4, 2012 Report Share Posted December 4, 2012 Not sure if this is the best place, but figured you guys would have some expert opinions on how to car for the exterior. I have a few scratches on my trunk and am wondering if there is a product that you could recommend that would restore my finish. The scratches don't go down to the metal and only affect the clear coat, but it's noticible when the car is clean and you are nearby. It's probably the depth of a fingernail, just enough to have removed the clear coat. None are very large and not noticible from a distance, but right up close you can tell and it bothers me. I've spoken to a body shop and they said just live with it, the clear coat is there for that purpose, the only real thing they could do would be repaint it. I'm wondering if anyone has an alternative suggestion or should I give up on having flawless paint? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
svt13 Posted December 4, 2012 Report Share Posted December 4, 2012 They are stupid if they said that. Take it to a good detail place. They can buff it out with a machine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snoopy49 Posted December 4, 2012 Report Share Posted December 4, 2012 Dr.ColorChip Custom Automotive Touch-Up Paint Kit Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MJN Posted December 5, 2012 Report Share Posted December 5, 2012 Find a good detailer or look into doing it yourself and pick up few new toys lol. Sounds like could be taken out with a good polish though. http://www.griotsgarage.com/home.do http://autogeekonline.net/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ballinsoldier Posted December 5, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 5, 2012 I was thinking about Dr. ColorChip, but that seems to be for chips/scratches that went through the actual paint. My issue is the clear coat only, the paint underneath is undamaged (yet). You almost have to feel it to notice it broke the clear coat unless it's freshly cleaned and in direct sunlight. As far as buffing, that's what they said initially. I guess they thought it was a surface scratch with paint transfer, but once he looked at it, he said there wasnt much he could do other than repaint. I meantioned doing a paint touch up and he said it would likely look worse than it does now and you'd be able to tell where a touch up was done. I could give the colorchip a shot I guess. What I'd like is some clear coat touch up of some kind, or that's what I think anyway. Thanks for the replies. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
svt13 Posted December 5, 2012 Report Share Posted December 5, 2012 I already answered ur question. The one I gave you is the correct method for fixing ur problem Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
san6279 Posted December 5, 2012 Report Share Posted December 5, 2012 Yep, svt13 is right. Take it to a detailer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joebob948 Posted December 5, 2012 Report Share Posted December 5, 2012 I recently purchased a Flex 3401VRG POLISHER just for that purpose!!!!!!!!! Would suggest that you go that route---never know when you will need it again!!!!!!!!!!!!You have to be a total idiot to screw it up!!!!!!!!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MJN Posted December 5, 2012 Report Share Posted December 5, 2012 I recently purchased a Flex 3401VRG POLISHER just for that purpose!!!!!!!!! Would suggest that you go that route---never know when you will need it again!!!!!!!!!!!!You have to be a total idiot to screw it up!!!!!!!!!!! Im jealous love to have a FLEX! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snoopy49 Posted December 5, 2012 Report Share Posted December 5, 2012 Wouldn't it be better to build up the clear in the scratched area and then take it down to the existing clear level rather than taking the surrounding undamaged clear coat down to the scratched level? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ballinsoldier Posted December 5, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 5, 2012 Wouldn't it be better to build up the clear in the scratched area and then take it down to the existing clear level rather than taking the surrounding undamaged clear coat down to the scratched level? That's what I was thinking, but maybe it's better left in the hands of a pro than myself.... I like the idea of a FLEX though, maybe i'll get into the detailing business! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cobra99 Posted December 5, 2012 Report Share Posted December 5, 2012 I suggest the PC 7424 before you get a flex, because you could burn the paint. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
svt13 Posted December 5, 2012 Report Share Posted December 5, 2012 Wouldn't it be better to build up the clear in the scratched area and then take it down to the existing clear level rather than taking the surrounding undamaged clear coat down to the scratched level? Well look at it this way. Lets say for the sake of the argument the clear coat is 5mm thick. Lets say his scratch is down 2mm so its at the 3mm thick level and the surrounding area is still 5mm thick. If you added clear to the 3mm level and brought it back up to 5mm, that means you added 2mm of clear, your basically just covering the scratch with another 2mm of clear. So then when you buff that extra 2mm of clear back off you are not getting the scratch you are getting the non damaged extra clear you just put on and once you get back down to where the scratch is at 3mm you are back to where you started. A detailer doesn't have to bring down the clear all over the area, just a small amount here and there. It won't do anything. The clear coat will still last 15-20 years and not many owners will have this car past 5 years. If I were to keep this car past 10 years I'd repaint the whole thing and put a huge huge thick layer of clear on it since fords clear is laughable, but again its ford not european. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ballinsoldier Posted December 5, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 5, 2012 Well look at it this way. Lets say for the sake of the argument the clear coat is 5mm thick. Lets say his scratch is down 2mm so its at the 3mm thick level and the surrounding area is still 5mm thick. If you added clear to the 3mm level and brought it back up to 5mm, that means you added 2mm of clear, your basically just covering the scratch with another 2mm of clear. So then when you buff that extra 2mm of clear back off you are not getting the scratch you are getting the non damaged extra clear you just put on and once you get back down to where the scratch is at 3mm you are back to where you started. A detailer doesn't have to bring down the clear all over the area, just a small amount here and there. It won't do anything. The clear coat will still last 15-20 years and not many owners will have this car past 5 years. If I were to keep this car past 10 years I'd repaint the whole thing and put a huge huge thick layer of clear on it since fords clear is laughable, but again its ford not european. I see where you are coming from and it makes sense. Just a side point, the car with the scratches is my 2012 BMW 335, the clear coat is pretty thick compartatively as you noted, which is the main reason I can tell (in my opinion). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
svt13 Posted December 5, 2012 Report Share Posted December 5, 2012 I see where you are coming from and it makes sense. Just a side point, the car with the scratches is my 2012 BMW 335, the clear coat is pretty thick compartatively as you noted, which is the main reason I can tell (in my opinion). Well then if its a BMW your clear coat is thick so you'll be fine with a detailer taking a few mm off to get rid of those scratches. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave 316 Posted December 6, 2012 Report Share Posted December 6, 2012 Jerseygator let loose on my 13, and i tracked it from build, to the dealer. no dealer prep, not even a wash. when he washed it, he was surprised about the number of scratches. but in his hands, it is a red jewel. no scratches remain, and the paint looks wet. Just an example how how forums can be a great help to members. thats how i found him. He used all adams products with a PC. We are topping it off with souveran. To the OP, i the hands of somebody who knows there craft, it should look fine, if not , then go another route. but i would try a good detailer first. JMO Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BCPD199 Posted December 10, 2012 Report Share Posted December 10, 2012 I recently purchased a Flex 3401VRG POLISHER just for that purpose!!!!!!!!! Would suggest that you go that route---never know when you will need it again!!!!!!!!!!!!You have to be a total idiot to screw it up!!!!!!!!!!! I suggest the PC 7424 before you get a flex, because you could burn the paint. What polishing material would you use with either buffer? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikejaeggi Posted December 17, 2012 Report Share Posted December 17, 2012 to piggy back on this thread, I picked mine up this week and noticed a spot where the clear coat dripped and created a little bubble. thinking it was some sort of soap or plastic residue, I scraped it with my finger and it came right off exposting a small spot of bare metal on the bottom corner of passenger door. i think I'm gonna get the drcolorchip and give it a try Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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