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Oil Change


Super Snake

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I completed my first oil change (1400 miles).

I was torn between low profile ramps or a floor jack and jack stands.

I chose a floor jack (light weight aluminum Racing Jack) 3K capacity.

Harbor Freight 2 ton jack stands (4) only used (2) for the front

I jacked each side behind the front tire with the jack pad at the K member attachment point, stand up 3 notches and placed at the K member just inboard of the Lower control attachment. Repeat for opposite side. Slid my fat a$$ under the car, pulled the plug, drained pretty right into the oil recovery basin. Put the wrench on the filter, loosened it up and AWE :censored: the oil drains right onto the top of the K member. The lightning holes allow the oil inside the member and although I wipe it clean it wicks out dripping for 3 days one drop at a time on my garage floor. Am I the only one who has done this? It looks like even if the car was level it would still hit the frame.

Anyway,

I wanted to use the Royal Purple, I could not find where they produce a full synthetic 5W50 oil. I was bummed because the credibility I would gain from my wife by the car having Purple oil (Purple being my wife’s favorite color) all went out the door. I opted for the Castrol Syntec 5W50 Full Synthetic and the rest was a breeze. 6.5 quarts put it right on the money.

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I completed my first oil change (1400 miles).

I was torn between low profile ramps or a floor jack and jack stands.

I chose a floor jack (light weight aluminum Racing Jack) 3K capacity.

Harbor Freight 2 ton jack stands (4) only used (2) for the front

I jacked each side behind the front tire with the jack pad at the K member attachment point, stand up 3 notches and placed at the K member just inboard of the Lower control attachment. Repeat for opposite side. Slid my fat a$$ under the car, pulled the plug, drained pretty right into the oil recovery basin. Put the wrench on the filter, loosened it up and AWE :censored: the oil drains right onto the top of the K member. The lightning holes allow the oil inside the member and although I wipe it clean it wicks out dripping for 3 days one drop at a time on my garage floor. Am I the only one who has done this? It looks like even if the car was level it would still hit the frame.

Anyway,

I wanted to use the Royal Purple, I could not find where they produce a full synthetic 5W50 oil. I was bummed because the credibility I would gain from my wife by the car having Purple oil (Purple being my wife’s favorite color) all went out the door. I opted for the Castrol Syntec 5W50 Full Synthetic and the rest was a breeze. 6.5 quarts put it right on the money.

 

Lonnie

 

First ... looking forward to seeing you at the get together in May .. and secondly ... when I changed my oil I used my lift and the car was even .. but i too recall a drip for a few days .... guess u just have to wipe it off real good

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Lonnie

 

First ... looking forward to seeing you at the get together in May .. and secondly ... when I changed my oil I used my lift and the car was even .. but i too recall a drip for a few days .... guess u just have to wipe it off real good

 

I'm looking forward to seeing you too Don, I'm excited, can't wait to see all the great members, cars and mods in person.

 

I may make some sort of a plastic shield like MM mentioned to keep the oild from getting on the frame

Hope we have great weather!!!!

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I'm looking forward to seeing you too Don, I'm excited, can't wait to see all the great members, cars and mods in person.

 

I may make some sort of a plastic shield like MM mentioned to keep the oild from getting on the frame

Hope we have great weather!!!!

For me it was just a piece of poly plastic that I threw away afterwards.

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For me it was just a piece of poly plastic that I threw away afterwards.

 

yeah, I don't know about anyone else but I try to keep the underside of the car just as clean as the top, the oil would not help that cause.

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Slid my fat a$$ under the car, pulled the plug, drained pretty right into the oil recovery basin. Put the wrench on the filter, loosened it up and AWE :censored: the oil drains right onto the top of the K member. The lightning holes allow the oil inside the member and although I wipe it clean it wicks out dripping for 3 days one drop at a time on my garage floor. Am I the only one who has done this? It looks like even if the car was level it would still hit the frame.

Probably not. I saw it coming, so I used heavy duty aluminum foil. I did the same thing with my Termy's oil filter. The aluminum foil has the advantage of allowing you to form it with ridges along the sides to channel the oil toward the collector pan. Then just toss.

Mastermech could probably fabricate a sheet metal tray, painted body color and laser-etched with 'GT500' using his day-job skills. Me? Simple and effective. Oh, and cheap. :shades:

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Probably not. I saw it coming, so I used heavy duty aluminum foil. I did the same thing with my Termy's oil filter. The aluminum foil has the advantage of allowing you to form it with ridges along the sides to channel the oil toward the collector pan. Then just toss.

Mastermech could probably fabricate a sheet metal tray, painted body color and laser-etched with 'GT500' using his day-job skills. Me? Simple and effective. Oh, and cheap. :shades:

 

Good idea.

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I completed my first oil change (1400 miles).

I was torn between low profile ramps or a floor jack and jack stands.

I chose a floor jack (light weight aluminum Racing Jack) 3K capacity.

Harbor Freight 2 ton jack stands (4) only used (2) for the front

I jacked each side behind the front tire with the jack pad at the K member attachment point, stand up 3 notches and placed at the K member just inboard of the Lower control attachment. Repeat for opposite side. Slid my fat a$$ under the car, pulled the plug, drained pretty right into the oil recovery basin. Put the wrench on the filter, loosened it up and AWE :censored: the oil drains right onto the top of the K member. The lightning holes allow the oil inside the member and although I wipe it clean it wicks out dripping for 3 days one drop at a time on my garage floor. Am I the only one who has done this? It looks like even if the car was level it would still hit the frame.

Anyway,

I wanted to use the Royal Purple, I could not find where they produce a full synthetic 5W50 oil. I was bummed because the credibility I would gain from my wife by the car having Purple oil (Purple being my wife’s favorite color) all went out the door. I opted for the Castrol Syntec 5W50 Full Synthetic and the rest was a breeze. 6.5 quarts put it right on the money.

Thanks for sharing this info. I will be using a plastic diverter like MM too. The foil trick sounds handy too.

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I completed my first oil change (1400 miles).

I was torn between low profile ramps or a floor jack and jack stands.

I chose a floor jack (light weight aluminum Racing Jack) 3K capacity.

Harbor Freight 2 ton jack stands (4) only used (2) for the front

I jacked each side behind the front tire with the jack pad at the K member attachment point, stand up 3 notches and placed at the K member just inboard of the Lower control attachment. Repeat for opposite side. Slid my fat a$$ under the car, pulled the plug, drained pretty right into the oil recovery basin. Put the wrench on the filter, loosened it up and AWE :censored: the oil drains right onto the top of the K member. The lightning holes allow the oil inside the member and although I wipe it clean it wicks out dripping for 3 days one drop at a time on my garage floor. Am I the only one who has done this? It looks like even if the car was level it would still hit the frame.

Anyway,

I wanted to use the Royal Purple, I could not find where they produce a full synthetic 5W50 oil. I was bummed because the credibility I would gain from my wife by the car having Purple oil (Purple being my wife’s favorite color) all went out the door. I opted for the Castrol Syntec 5W50 Full Synthetic and the rest was a breeze. 6.5 quarts put it right on the money.

 

I have not looked at mine yet to see how the filter sits in the ebgine bay on the GT 500, but on my trucks and other cars I take an awl (or ice pick) and poke a small hole in the lowest part of the filter where it will drain down unobstructed into drain pan. When flter has stopped draining it will spin off with no mess. Just food for thought!! :D

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I completed my first oil change (1400 miles).

I was torn between low profile ramps or a floor jack and jack stands.

I chose a floor jack (light weight aluminum Racing Jack) 3K capacity.

Harbor Freight 2 ton jack stands (4) only used (2) for the front

I jacked each side behind the front tire with the jack pad at the K member attachment point, stand up 3 notches and placed at the K member just inboard of the Lower control attachment. Repeat for opposite side. Slid my fat a$$ under the car, pulled the plug, drained pretty right into the oil recovery basin. Put the wrench on the filter, loosened it up and AWE :censored: the oil drains right onto the top of the K member. The lightning holes allow the oil inside the member and although I wipe it clean it wicks out dripping for 3 days one drop at a time on my garage floor. Am I the only one who has done this? It looks like even if the car was level it would still hit the frame.

Anyway,

I wanted to use the Royal Purple, I could not find where they produce a full synthetic 5W50 oil. I was bummed because the credibility I would gain from my wife by the car having Purple oil (Purple being my wife’s favorite color) all went out the door. I opted for the Castrol Syntec 5W50 Full Synthetic and the rest was a breeze. 6.5 quarts put it right on the money.

 

 

Just got under my car to check out the filter location and prepare to do an oil change this weekend. I noticed that the bottom of the filter is quite close to the frame crossmember. Can a regular filter cap and ratchet fit in there and if not what kind of tool did you use to remove the filter.

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Just got under my car to check out the filter location and prepare to do an oil change this weekend. I noticed that the bottom of the filter is quite close to the frame crossmember. Can a regular filter cap and ratchet fit in there and if not what kind of tool did you use to remove the filter.

 

 

I did my first last Saturday and used a hex shaped cup to the filter bottom attached to a 3\8" drive ratchet. Have a large pan underneath because it makes quite the mess.

 

Curious, I saved my original oil filter, why I'm not really sure. I think maybe it would be cool to keep the original oil filter. Buddy thinks I'm anal and he's probably right. :hysterical: Question, anyone else save theirs?

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Great ideas guys thanks

I used a standard oil filter wrench to remove the filter, the wrench fit fine. The new K&N filter has a 1" hex nut on the bottom, I really like that.

 

MM1, I'm sure could make a beautiful masterpiecs to solve this problem, I like the foil or the plastic, bottom line it wont happen again.

 

Ford should consider this of course. $.30 is about right, but if you get it autographed by CS, charge $350.00 it would be worthy of the GT500

 

this is such a great site

you guys are awesome

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I have not looked at mine yet to see how the filter sits in the ebgine bay on the GT 500, but on my trucks and other cars I take an awl (or ice pick) and poke a small hole in the lowest part of the filter where it will drain down unobstructed into drain pan. When flter has stopped draining it will spin off with no mess. Just food for thought!! :D

 

hmmm, i like this idea, sounds a bit cleaner than the foil :yup:

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I did my first last Saturday and used a hex shaped cup to the filter bottom attached to a 3\8" drive ratchet. Have a large pan underneath because it makes quite the mess.

 

Curious, I saved my original oil filter, why I'm not really sure. I think maybe it would be cool to keep the original oil filter. Buddy thinks I'm anal and he's probably right. :hysterical: Question, anyone else save theirs?

 

 

Thanks much guys- great ideas! It always surprises me to see how difficult manufacturers make it to perform simple service on a car.

I have a mercedes sedan where the oil filter is up top in the engine bay and the oil comes out through the dip stick tube. I can change the oil with a tux on in about a half hour. Oh well I guess crawling under the car is part of the fun

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Thanks much guys- great ideas! It always surprises me to see how difficult manufacturers make it to perform simple service on a car.

I have a mercedes sedan where the oil filter is up top in the engine bay and the oil comes out through the dip stick tube. I can change the oil with a tux on in about a half hour. Oh well I guess crawling under the car is part of the fun

 

Remote oil filters are very comon and not out of the question for this car

I may look into it

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Thats actually a very good idea. I had one on a porsche race car and it made service very easy. Keep us posted on any info you find.

 

I'll do that

anything to make life a little easier

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My F150 also spills on the cross member, but Ford was smart enough on that to attach a plastic piece that funnels the fluid over and down. I guess it was too much to add a 30 cent piece of plastic and the whole extra weight (2oz.) thingy.

 

 

My '05 F-150 5.4 has the same tray - but Ford goofed cause it can leak out the rear side of the tray as the lip has notches in it. I fashoned a "drain gutter' out of cardboard and duct tape that directs the filter oil leakage right into the drain pan. Works well on both my 5.4L and 4.6L oil changes - cheap too!

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My '05 F-150 5.4 has the same tray - but Ford goofed cause it can leak out the rear side of the tray as the lip has notches in it. I fashoned a "drain gutter' out of cardboard and duct tape that directs the filter oil leakage right into the drain pan. Works well on both my 5.4L and 4.6L oil changes - cheap too!

 

Great Idea thanks

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