13 GT500 engine noise when up to temp, anyone else?

[svtmattUT]

I purchased a 2013 GT500 new out of state and drove it 1600mi. home. Varied the rpm like the manual advised, drove under 4k RPM first 200mi. Never used LC once. (SVT PKG + TRACK PACK)

 

Ok, history out of the way - I hadn't noticed before but I do now, the car sounds flawless when cold and all the way up to operating temps. Just "after" it gets up to temp it starts this funny whine/moan sound between 900-3500 rpm. Most noticeably during deceleration and sounds like it is definitely front of the car. "Rrreeeeeeeerrrrr" It goes with the RPM of the motor, in gear or out of gear makes no difference so not a transmission issue. The noise gets louder the hotter the motor gets. There is one interesting bit of info, it seems that the noise is much less once you are stopped or just about stopped. In other words you can take it out of gear and be rolling at say 8 mph and rev it a little and it'd loud, around 1mph or stopped and rev it and a 75% reduction in the noise. You can also park the car for 5 minutes just after driving for hours and it will go away then once heat gets back to whatever it is the sound returns. I have an audio clip that I may upload to youtube later.

 

No noticeable power difference so just wondering, is this just how the 13's sound? If this is normal then great, i'll just accept that and move on but it just sounds wrong.

 

Taken it in twice now, they replaced the usual suspects - two pulleys, and the alternator, zero change. Tech said that the SVT Hotline told them "Yeah some of the trinity motors just have that 'zipper' sound from 1-3k, it'll go away over time". Sorry but WTF does zipper sound mean? And after 2350mi it's still doing it. Anyone else experience this?

 

Thanks in advance for any insight into this issue. I simply love this car to death and it sucks when something like this messes with the experience.

[662HP631TQ]

I hope it does go aaway. But from experience with another car, a 2009 Dodge Caliber SRT-4, This is EXACTLY what happened to me when my clutch took a shit. The clutch wasn't bad, but the bolts to tighten it down came loose and destroyed the clutch completely. They didn't have enough locktite either. That was my piece of shit dodge, but this is a Quality Ford product, I don't think it is the same case.

[165MPHGT500]

See Flywheel Whirl topic . . . I thought this to be whirl associated with flywheel. Others disagreed. See topic string for detals.Close to 4000 miles on mine with same sound and no issues to date.

 

Good luck with yours . . .

[cobra23]

I have had an 03 Cobra, 2010 GT 500, and now a 2013 GT 500. In all cases there was/is engine, supercharger, accessory, drivetrain, exhaust, and rear end noise. Despite all the noises, I didn't have any problems.

 

Now if there is a knocking sound at some future point, then I would be concerned. My recommendation is to drive and enjoy as the car is meant to be driven. If there is a problem, it will only get worse which will make it easier to identify and the fix under warranty

[svtkeith]

I have had an 03 Cobra, 2010 GT 500, and now a 2013 GT 500. In all cases there was/is engine, supercharger, accessory, drivetrain, exhaust, and rear end noise. Despite all the noises, I didn't have any problems.

 

Now if there is a knocking sound at some future point, then I would be concerned. My recommendation is to drive and enjoy as the car is meant to be driven. If there is a problem, it will only get worse which will make it easier to identify and the fix under warranty

 

 

 

Same here 04 Cobra..07 Gt500 and both noisy most of it from the SCer.

[2010KonaBlueGT]

I purchased a 2013 GT500 new out of state and drove it 1600mi. home. Varied the rpm like the manual advised, drove under 4k RPM first 200mi. Never used LC once. (SVT PKG + TRACK PACK)

Ok, history out of the way - I hadn't noticed before but I do now, the car sounds flawless when cold and all the way up to operating temps. Just "after" it gets up to temp it starts this funny whine/moan sound between 900-3500 rpm. Most noticeably during deceleration and sounds like it is definitely front of the car. "Rrreeeeeeeerrrrr" It goes with the RPM of the motor, in gear or out of gear makes no difference so not a transmission issue. The noise gets louder the hotter the motor gets. There is one interesting bit of info, it seems that the noise is much less once you are stopped or just about stopped. In other words you can take it out of gear and be rolling at say 8 mph and rev it a little and it'd loud, around 1mph or stopped and rev it and a 75% reduction in the noise. You can also park the car for 5 minutes just after driving for hours and it will go away then once heat gets back to whatever it is the sound returns. I have an audio clip that I may upload to youtube later.

 

No noticeable power difference so just wondering, is this just how the 13's sound? If this is normal then great, i'll just accept that and move on but it just sounds wrong.

 

 

My first thought is EPAS although I can't think of a reason it would be RPM related. Try turning the wheel back/forth while you're decellerating and it's making the noise. If the noise changes, there's a good chance it's EPAS or tire/wheel/bearing related.

 

It's really hard to diagnose a noise over text....

 

 

Phill

[svt13]

I don't know if this is the sound everyone is talking about but the other day when I got to my parking garage my car was making a whirrling whistling sound when I was reversing in. But it still made the sound when the car was in neutral and the parking brake up. I got out to check it but couldnt' figure it out. Today though the sound is gone, car is silent again. I have about 4000 miles almost on my car now. I think its the supercharger.

 

I think you should post the recording of the sound so we can all hear and see if this is the same sound we all are hearing.

[2010KonaBlueGT]

Thanks in advance for any insight into this issue. I simply love this car to death and it sucks when something like this messes with the experience.

 

 

Oh yeah, check the tag on your driveshaft to see if it's come loose.

 

There have been quite a few '13 owners develop a 'strange noise' that turned out to be the DS tag.

 

 

Phill

[dave 316]

NVH anyone? seriously, this has to be the hardest thing to figure out. You may have done it already, but take the tech for a ride cold and up to temp when it doesnt do it, then let him hear the sound appear. to do this, you may need to leave the car overnight. i know, i know, i wouldnt want to leave my car either, but this is the only way for them to hear exactly what you are hearing so they dont blow you off and consider you some kind of nut! Record the sound and play it back here, PLLLEEAASE! waste of your time

[svtmattUT]

Ok, here is the audio recording. It just doesn't sound right, and again, it sounds flawless until it gets up to temp then this starts.

 

 

[svtmattUT]

Oh yeah, check the tag on your driveshaft to see if it's come loose.

 

There have been quite a few '13 owners develop a 'strange noise' that turned out to be the DS tag.

 

 

Phill

 

Definitely not, tag is in tact.

[svtmattUT]

NVH anyone? seriously, this has to be the hardest thing to figure out. You may have done it already, but take the tech for a ride cold and up to temp when it doesnt do it, then let him hear the sound appear. to do this, you may need to leave the car overnight. i know, i know, i wouldnt want to leave my car either, but this is the only way for them to hear exactly what you are hearing so they dont blow you off and consider you some kind of nut! Record the sound and play it back here, PLLLEEAASE! waste of your time

 

 

Service tech rode with me, he clearly hears it. Agrees with me that it's not right, but have yet to successfully diagnose/resolve. They have been great so far but other than just randomly replacing parts they have no clue. I think i will wait for a regional traveling tech to diagnose it.

[svtkeith]

No that ain't normal...both my 04 Cobra and 07 GT500 made noises but nothing like that.

[165MPHGT500]

IMHO, the whirl in my car is coming from flywheel / clutch area in 2 – 4k RPM range. Clutch in or out, rolling or standstill makes no difference. Not associated to transmission or rest of drive train. Not super charger because I know from 07 and 08 what this sounds like; no boost no sound.

 

My rational is that when engine warms up clearances tighten and air is forced, funneled or moved across or through clearance area. That's when whirl becomes audible. Given my mechanical background I feel confident this is nothing to worry about and if I’m wrong it will break and I will know I was totally wrong. For now I hardly even notice the sound any more unless I listen for it.

 

I love driving this car.

[svtmattUT]

 

IMHO, the whirl in my car is coming from flywheel / clutch area in 2 – 4k RPM range. Clutch in or out, rolling or standstill makes no difference. Not associated to transmission or rest of drive train. Not super charger because I know from 07 and 08 what this sounds like; no boost no sound.

 

My rational is that when engine warms up clearances tighten and air is forced, funneled or moved across or through clearance area. That's when whirl becomes audible. Given my mechanical background I feel confident this is nothing to worry about and if I’m wrong it will break and I will know I was totally wrong. For now I hardly even notice the sound any more unless I listen for it.

 

I love driving this car.

 

 

 

After much testing I doubt mine has anything to do with the flywheel at this point. The sound diminishes by 50-60% when at a dead stop vs. a roll which makes me think TVS / bypass valve. The flywheel wouldn't be altered by programming etc when at a stop but the TVS unit is coded to dump all boost to a bypass unit and essentially build no pressure.

 

I called SVT directly and we have a regional tech coming to look at it. Good to see there are ZERO TSB's on this car so far. I will post back when we have a solution to help anyone else who encounters this issue, I simply just love this car and want the legend back.

[2010KonaBlueGT]

.....the TVS unit is coded to dump all boost to a bypass unit and essentially build no pressure.

 

 

 

There's no "coding" or programming about it. It's a vacuum controlled valve that operates off of manifold vacuum and the lack thereof at WOT.

 

You could test it with a vacuum pump to see if the noise comes/goes with valve operation.

 

 

Phill

[svtmattUT]

There's no "coding" or programming about it. It's a vacuum controlled valve that operates off of manifold vacuum and the lack thereof at WOT.

 

You could test it with a vacuum pump to see if the noise comes/goes with valve operation.

 

 

Phill

 

 

Sorry I wasn't sure if there were any electronic position sensors involved in that bypass process. Excellent point, I will run it by the techs as another possibility.

[svtmattUT]

Long term update: After visiting the dealer many times and having traveling ford techs look at it they could never figure it out. They replaced the alternator, every pulley on the motor, the tensioner arm, etc. Still there. After speaking with others it was deduced that if you purchased the car new with ~10 miles on the clock and proceed to drive it hundreds of miles on the freeway it broke in funny. WI read the break in instructions and adhered to them perfectly but there is only so much "engine speed variance" one can do on a 1500 mile trip. I drove 1500 miles across country from the originating dealer and within a few hundred miles it started and persisted through 7,000+ miles later.

Oddly enough doing a redline run while it was cold (7k blocked out) resolved it almost entirely. I would never advocate getting on a car that is not up to operating temprature yet but this was a once in a lifetime run against a twin turbo challenger who did a ricer fly by and missed the light ahead, it was go time. I pulled up to the light and the douche sat there revved it to 5k and gave me that Mopar is king smirk. He underestimated what 700hp and a 450lb weight advantage looks like on the street, The Shelby walked him by 4 car lengths and he gave up. When he finally cought up he pulled yet again another ricer flyby, and missed the next light. You guessed it, ass kicked again but with 7 grand unlocked and it was even worse this time. I was suddenly noise free. #StreetRaceBreakInProcedure

[James Harman]

I have the same problem with my 2013, noise when warm just as you described same rpm range and everything!! 9300 miles on the car.

My noise sounds just like your YouTube video.

I may have to try what you did to see if it goes away. I haven't drove it in a week.

Was waiting to take it to the dealer to see what's up.

 

I'll try what you did first. Thanks for posting the info!

 

I purchased a 2013 GT500 new out of state and drove it 1600mi. home. Varied the rpm like the manual advised, drove under 4k RPM first 200mi. Never used LC once. (SVT PKG + TRACK PACK)

Ok, history out of the way - I hadn't noticed before but I do now, the car sounds flawless when cold and all the way up to operating temps. Just "after" it gets up to temp it starts this funny whine/moan sound between 900-3500 rpm. Most noticeably during deceleration and sounds like it is definitely front of the car. "Rrreeeeeeeerrrrr" It goes with the RPM of the motor, in gear or out of gear makes no difference so not a transmission issue. The noise gets louder the hotter the motor gets. There is one interesting bit of info, it seems that the noise is much less once you are stopped or just about stopped. In other words you can take it out of gear and be rolling at say 8 mph and rev it a little and it'd loud, around 1mph or stopped and rev it and a 75% reduction in the noise. You can also park the car for 5 minutes just after driving for hours and it will go away then once heat gets back to whatever it is the sound returns. I have an audio clip that I may upload to youtube later.

No noticeable power difference so just wondering, is this just how the 13's sound? If this is normal then great, i'll just accept that and move on but it just sounds wrong.

Taken it in twice now, they replaced the usual suspects - two pulleys, and the alternator, zero change. Tech said that the SVT Hotline told them "Yeah some of the trinity motors just have that 'zipper' sound from 1-3k, it'll go away over time". Sorry but WTF does zipper sound mean? And after 2350mi it's still doing it. Anyone else experience this?

Thanks in advance for any insight into this issue. I simply love this car to death and it sucks when something like this messes with the experience.

 

Long term update: After visiting the dealer many times and having traveling ford techs look at it they could never figure it out. They replaced the alternator, every pulley on the motor, the tensioner arm, etc. Still there. After speaking with others it was deduced that if you purchased the car new with ~10 miles on the clock and proceed to drive it hundreds of miles on the freeway it broke in funny. WI read the break in instructions and adhered to them perfectly but there is only so much "engine speed variance" one can do on a 1500 mile trip. I drove 1500 miles across country from the originating dealer and within a few hundred miles it started and persisted through 7,000+ miles later.

Oddly enough doing a redline run while it was cold (7k blocked out) resolved it almost entirely. I would never advocate getting on a car that is not up to operating temprature yet but this was a once in a lifetime run against a twin turbo challenger who did a ricer fly by and missed the light ahead, it was go time. I pulled up to the light and the douche sat there revved it to 5k and gave me that Mopar is king smirk. He underestimated what 700hp and a 450lb weight advantage looks like on the street, The Shelby walked him by 4 car lengths and he gave up. When he finally cought up he pulled yet again another ricer flyby, and missed the next light. You guessed it, ass kicked again but with 7 grand unlocked and it was even worse this time. I was suddenly noise free. #StreetRaceBreakInProcedure