Engine Bay Cleaning - Help!

[Mulanzo]

I'm sure this is a topic that has been extensively covered, however, I'm not much of a mechanic and don't really know much about how the engine works or what things are. I opened my hood looking to cover up the

1. Distributer Cap

2. Fuse box cover

3. Battery

4. Air Intake

5. Alternator

 

But don't know what those things are in the GT500 engine. I tried looking up service manuals to identify but those are confusing (I'm in the medical field.... engines are not my cup of tea.... ).

 

 

I know where the fuse box and Battery (obviously) are, but the others I'm a little clueless. I know the yellow filter needs to be covered as well going into the supercharger. Can anyone help me in identifying these things so that I can safely clean my engine. Is there anything else that needs to be covered. I drive my car in the rain so I'm not afraid of water, but I just don't know what shouldn't be getting soaked or soaped.

 

Also, I noticed that one of the radiator hoses is collapsed (the best way I can describe it). I'm not sure if that is normal but it caught my attention as I was inspecting the engine. I did not notice it like that the last time I opened the hood (last week). Any help is GREATLY appreciated... It's getting really cold out and I need to finish the last cleaning prep before storing it for the winter.

 

Here's an image of the hose I'm talking about:

 

Edited November 7, 2012 by Mulanzo

[jerseygator]

Watch this video... I think you're a little over concerned about what to cover. Definitely the CAI. But the key is to NOT use heavy water pressure.

 

The video uses Adams products but you can use others. And the car is a Crapmaro if you can stand to watch it. LOL!

 

http://www.adamsforu...ailing/8778.htm

 

I've cleaned my engine bay many times using this process. No problems at all...

 

Good luck!

 

Edited November 7, 2012 by jerseygator

[HyperStangs]

As long as your not drowning your engine you pretty much won't hurt anything. Water will pool on top of the intake manifold, so I always take the time to dry it with a "nasty" rag and wipe everything down before dressing. Avoid the coils and intake area if you can, where there are breathers and wiring harnesses... but its not like its EASY to get water in places it shouldn't be. I've seen guys hit the entire engine with high-pressure.... not a fan of that. Slow and easy is the way. Lots of elbow grease and good cleaning tools helps. I also dress with something that doesn't get sticky, or you'll only compound the problem.

[jerseygator]

Here are a 2 before and after video's of how dirty my engine bay was before I cleaned it. ( I drove to Vegas from Jersey through a sand storm and snow!)

 

Before cleaning.... Go to the 1 minute mark to see engine.

 

 

 

 

After... And I used the exact products and process on the video link in post above.

 

Edited November 7, 2012 by jerseygator

[jerseygator]

As long as your not drowning your engine you pretty much won't hurt anything. Water will pool on top of the intake manifold, so I always take the time to dry it with a "nasty" rag and wipe everything down before dressing. Avoid the coils and intake area if you can, where there are breathers and wiring harnesses... but its not like its EASY to get water in places it shouldn't be. I've seen guys hit the entire engine with high-pressure.... not a fan of that. Slow and easy is the way. Lots of elbow grease and good cleaning tools helps. I also dress with something that doesn't get sticky, or you'll only compound the problem.

 

 

I agree with not using "high pressure", but... Using a rag just doesn't cut it. To many nooks and crannies.

 

I use a Master Blaster Sidekick. It blows warm are to speed the drying process. It's also excellent for the entire car after a wash.

 

http://www.overstock.com/Home-Garden/Metro-Air-Force-Blaster-Sidekick-Compact-Portable-Motorcycle-Dryer/4868751/product.html?cid=202290&kid=9553000357392&track=pspla&kw={keyword}&adtype=pla

[Mulanzo]

Thanks guys! I'm going out now to give it a try. Any thoughts on the collapsed rad hose? I've read it may be due to the outside temperature but I haven't seen it do that before.

[Ecrissman]

Thanks guys! I'm going out now to give it a try. Any thoughts on the collapsed rad hose? I've read it may be due to the outside temperature but I haven't seen it do that before.

 

 

Just out of curiosity, with the engine completely cold, remove the actual radiator cap and see if hose uncompresses. I am guessing it will. With the cap off verify the antifreeze is full. Usually it is a faulty cap, or clogged return line into the overflow tank.

[Ecrissman]

Here are a 2 before and after video's of how dirty my engine bay was before I cleaned it. ( I drove to Vegas from Jersey through a sand storm and snow!)

 

Before cleaning.... Go to the 1 minute mark to see engine.

 

 

 

 

After... And I used the exact products and process on the video link in post above.

 

 

 

That looks sweet!

[Mulanzo]

Just out of curiosity, with the engine completely cold, remove the actual radiator cap and see if hose uncompresses. I am guessing it will. With the cap off verify the antifreeze is full. Usually it is a faulty cap, or clogged return line into the overflow tank.

 

 

I will give this a try tonight. I was running the car to let some of the water burn off and it's warm at the moment. The hoses, for what it's worth, puffed back out as it warmed up but I want to see what happens tonight. Man it's times like this I wish I was more of a DIY mechanic type. Thanks for all the help. I'll let you know how it goes.

 

Nice vids Jerseygator.. That inspires me to clean up my engine more than you can imagine. Just with some Optimum power clean and a boar hair brush it's looking a lot better. Another wash followed by Klasse All In One and I think I'll be really happy with it.

[jerseygator]

That looks sweet!

 

 

Thanks... It was sooooo filthy when I got home from the 50th bash in Vegas. It took me a whole week with a boars hair brush. Taking off EVERY connetion, the grille (upper and lower), battery and CAI. Looks better than new now.

[Ecrissman]

 

 

Thanks... It was sooooo filthy when I got home from the 50th bash in Vegas. It took me a whole week with a boars hair brush. Taking off EVERY connetion, the grille (upper and lower), battery and CAI. Looks better than new now.

 

 

Def looks better than new, mine also was filthy when I got it.

[thewheelman]

Guess I'll have to do mine now, you guys are shaming me in to it!

[MMcGuirk]

I will let you all in on John Keller's secret engine compartment detail process. I have been using this for years and it is too easy.

 

Harley Davidson dealers sell S100 total cycle cleaner. It come in aerosol and spray bottles. (I prefer the aerosol, John prefers the spray)

 

Cover the CAI, then spray the entire are with S100 Total Cycle Cleaner. I do the underside of the hood, behind the grilles, even the wheel wells. Rinse with a garden hose without a sprayer and blow dry (I used my shop vac in blower mode). I finish with microfiber towels and then coat everything with S100 Engine Brightener.

 

You will not believe the results and how easy this process is.

 

You are welcome, sorry John!

[Snoopy49]

Rinse with a garden hose without a sprayer and blow dry (I used my shop vac in blower mode).

 

 

The downside of using a shop vac is the possibility of blowing dirt all over your car if the vac tank and hose are not absolutely clean and you remove the dirty filter before using it as a blower. A small electric leaf blower works pretty good and you don't have to clean out the shop vac.

Edited November 8, 2012 by Snoopy49

[thewheelman]

The downside of using a shop vac is the possibility of blowing dirt all over your car if the vac tank and hose are not absolutely clean and you remove the dirty filter before using it as a blower. A small electric leaf blower works pretty good and you don't have to clean out the shop vac.

 

 

LOL, every time I fire the blower up to dry the car I have visions of Carl from Caddyshack, "Just tidying up a bit here"

[Snoopy49]

There nothing like turning on the vac in blower mode and seeing a solid steam of dense dust spewing out of the end of a 2 1/4" hose. The first time it happens, you are so mesmerized by the awesome cloud of dust you have just created, you forget to turn it off immediately.

After you finally get the thing turned off, you are equally amazed at the extent of the damage you just caused. Who knew that dust could actually get into dust proof areas? Lesson learned.

Edited November 8, 2012 by Snoopy49

[MMcGuirk]

My shop vac has the motor that separates from the vac and I bought a second hose just for blow drying.

[twobjshelbys]

I didn't see this but I strongly encourage disconnecting the battery before washing the engine compartment. And make it the positive lead since any short of water to ground will conduct. I can tell you from experience that live components can get zotzd. I blew out the MSD ignition box on my Cobra this way...

Edited November 8, 2012 by twobjshelbys

[KOBRA2848]

I bought a Makita cordless blower to help get the water out of the crevices on my SGT's. It works great and has a soft rubber nozzle that won't scratch. It is smaller than a regular blower.

The part number I ordered was a BUB182Z.

 

Mark

[jerseygator]

My shop vac has the motor that separates from the vac and I bought a second hose just for blow drying.

 

I bought a Makita cordless blower to help get the water out of the crevices on my SGT's. It works great and has a soft rubber nozzle that won't scratch. It is smaller than a regular blower.

The part number I ordered was a BUB182Z.

 

Mark

 

 

Common on guys... Step up to the best way to blow dry your engine bay and entire car with the warm air of a Master Blaster Sidekick. :rolleyes:

The Makita cost $99 and is meant for leaves. The Sidekick cost $77 and is meant for engines, motorcycles and cars.

 

http://www.overstock...la&kw={keyword}

Edited November 9, 2012 by jerseygator

[Snoopy49]

Here are a 2 before and after video's of how dirty my engine bay was before I cleaned it. ( I drove to Vegas from Jersey through a sand storm and snow!)

 

 

 

 

The brake/clutch reservoir looks like it is overfilled. You should check it and lower the level if it is overfilled. People have reported damage to paint because of overfilling.

Edited November 9, 2012 by Snoopy49

[thewheelman]

I finally got by the Harley dealer and picked up some of the S100 cleaner and finisher mentioned above. Wow, easy-peasey! Sprayed it all down with the cleaner, let it set for a few minutes, worked some of the really grimy spots with a long handled paint brush, then hosed it all down. Looked great! Then, I applied the finisher.....wow, looks brand new! Total time--maybe 30 minutes......maybe 40 total.......will do again to Mustang more often and to my truck this week!

 

Thanks for the tip!

[grsybtch]

I finally got by the Harley dealer and picked up some of the S100 cleaner and finisher mentioned above. Wow, easy-peasey! Sprayed it all down with the cleaner, let it set for a few minutes, worked some of the really grimy spots with a long handled paint brush, then hosed it all down. Looked great! Then, I applied the finisher.....wow, looks brand new! Total time--maybe 30 minutes......maybe 40 total.......will do again to Mustang more often and to my truck this week!

 

Thanks for the tip!

 

 

 

A word of caution on the S100........I used to use it on my bikes and found it to cause corrosion in nooks and cranny's where it doesn't get completely rinsed out.

 

Use at your own risk

[gotoatz]

I've never used the S100 as noted above, but I just did the engine bay on our Bullitt this past weekend. Followed my normal process of......

 

Warm engine slightly, not to operating temp.

Rinsed with low pressure water from hose.

Spray entire engine bay with Simple Green generously.

Let sit about 10 minutes.

Rinse.

Dry.

Viola. Follow with some detail products, Back to Black, detail spray, etc.

Done.

 

Mike

[roblectric]

^{Used some S100 on my scoot some years back and was pleased with its ability to clean but you had to rinse forever or it would leave a cloudy residue. Not sure if the finisher eliminates that step. Hand polishing the residue kind of defeated the purpose.}

[IngotSilverSnake]

A word of caution on the S100........I used to use it on my bikes and found it to cause corrosion in nooks and cranny's where it doesn't get completely rinsed out.

 

Use at your own risk

You are correct that S-100 Total Cycle cleaner can be a problem if not used properly. The directions clearly state that you should begin flushing out the cleaner immediately after application and to make sure all the "nooks and cranny's" are rinsed. However, the key is to also use S-100 Corrosion Protectant after the wash and the engine is thoroughly dry. After I wash my HD bike engines with S-100 Cycle Cleaner, I run them briefly to dry out the engine (a few miles). Then I wait a couple of hours to let everything cool down. When completely dry (and cool), I apply S-100 Corrosion Protectant. Using this procedure, I have NEVER had a spec of corrosion on ANY of the many HD bikes I have ever owned.

Edited May 20, 2013 by IngotSilverSnake