Freak Posted November 5, 2012 Report Share Posted November 5, 2012 I also noticed it says it includes a set of fuel rails and cross-over that clears the TVS. Is the FRPP 2.3L TVS for the 5.8 bigger than the old one? I've never known anyone to need new fuel rails or cross-over... Not sure why anyone would need fuel rails and a crossover. I'm slowly installing mine (driving season is over here in MI, Plus I still need to get a tune and CAI, so I'm in no rush), and the stock crossover on mine, while it will do the job, is pretty tight against the top of the supercharger. It's not a huge deal, but I can see why they decided to include it in the kit. I can imagine there will be some heat transfer into the fuel going on due to the tight fit as well. The VMP is on the left The TVS SVT 2013 is in the middle The 2012 OEM is on the right On the throttle body there is not much to say...The VMP and the TVS SVT are about same intake size. but On the supercharger side, the TVS SVT is MUCH larger. You aren't kidding. These pictures don't do it justice. Something that isn't obvious in the side by side pictures, is that both the bolt pattern, and the gasket sealing surface are different on the '13 TVS. I bolted the elbow up to get a pic of how much bigger the new port is (I only put the top rear bolt on), and it extended past the sealing surface of the stock S/C. I don't think it would even be possible to hog the inlet on the stock S/C, FRPP TVS, or VMP TVS to the same size. In one of the pics below, the lower corner is pretty obvious, but there is also a slight overlap at the front that isn't so obvious, so I shaded the areas that extend beyond the gasket surface in red. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
patrickshelby Posted November 5, 2012 Report Share Posted November 5, 2012 I'm slowly installing mine (driving season is over here in MI, Plus I still need to get a tune and CAI, so I'm in no rush), and the stock crossover on mine, while it will do the job, is pretty tight against the top of the supercharger. It's not a huge deal, but I can see why they decided to include it in the kit. I can imagine there will be some heat transfer into the fuel going on due to the tight fit as well. Absolutely true. Heat and rubbing related problems. It's too tight and I am not going to leave it like that. That is why I tried SHELBY fuel rails... I have either to get the 13' crossover & rails or modify the SHELBY kit (some more) to fit... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2010KonaBlueGT Posted November 5, 2012 Report Share Posted November 5, 2012 That is why I tried SHELBY fuel rails... I have either to get the 13' crossover & rails or modify the SHELBY kit (some more) to fit... I have a brand-new set of the Shelby fuel rails still sitting on my shelf in the original box...STILL. I found all of the fittings and hose I need on-line but never bookmarked it or ordered them (and lost all bookmarks in a HD reload). Then, to top it all off, Shelby started offering their rails in plain aluminum or blue anodized. I want a set of blue rails but don't want to throw $300+ bucks away for the sake of getting blue rails. I haven't found anyone local that can anodize and was kind of hoping that maybe Shelby would do me a straight across trade with me paying shipping both ways (since after all, they are BRAND NEW) for a set of blue ones. But I suppose I'll have to ask someone at Shelby first! Ahhh, but I digress. I'm a procrastinator extraordinaire. Maybe Jer will see this and chime in with his $0.02 worth... But for now, does anyone know/remember what size the end holes are on the Shelby fuel rails? I can't remember if they're dash 8 or dash 10. I have to order the fittings regardless of what color I end up with. Phill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Freak Posted November 6, 2012 Report Share Posted November 6, 2012 Patrick, what needs to be modified on the Shelby rails? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96redvettelt4 Posted November 6, 2012 Report Share Posted November 6, 2012 To those that have had the 5.8 removed: what was used for color (wanting to go with a black to match my car)? High temp paint, powder coated, regular paint? Also how much it costed. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
patrickshelby Posted November 6, 2012 Report Share Posted November 6, 2012 Patrick, what needs to be modified on the Shelby rails? First you have to get all the fittings and the crossover tube or hose. That is not available at SHELBY. Why? Don't know... Then, the stainless steel tabs are too long and the fuel rails are too far apart from the supercharger, even when the tabs are pressed against it, using all what can be used of their bolt's slots. That equals to your injectors not being square in their bores in the manifold and in the fuel rails. They are angled, the top leaning against the valve cover on each side. It does not leak, but I just don't think it's good to have the O-rings work at an angle (in the upper and lower bores). If you shorten (cut) the tabs, you will open the slot for the bolts. But that is not terminal. You could live with that... BUT then the fuel inlet fitting provided by SHELBY will make contact with the water neck of the manifold... Not good to play like that with fuel !!! So what I am doing now is machining new shorter SS tabs + getting another fitting that is not having the bent tube, causing the clearance problem. Talk about a "bolt-on"...!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
patrickshelby Posted November 6, 2012 Report Share Posted November 6, 2012 To those that have had the 5.8 removed: what was used for color (wanting to go with a black to match my car)? High temp paint, powder coated, regular paint? Also how much it costed. Thanks. You can't powder coat the TVS like that, it would require you to take the whole thing fully apart, including all seals and all bearings... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
patrickshelby Posted November 6, 2012 Report Share Posted November 6, 2012 I have a brand-new set of the Shelby fuel rails still sitting on my shelf in the original box...STILL. I found all of the fittings and hose I need on-line but never bookmarked it or ordered them (and lost all bookmarks in a HD reload). Then, to top it all off, Shelby started offering their rails in plain aluminum or blue anodized. I want a set of blue rails but don't want to throw $300+ bucks away for the sake of getting blue rails. I haven't found anyone local that can anodize and was kind of hoping that maybe Shelby would do me a straight across trade with me paying shipping both ways (since after all, they are BRAND NEW) for a set of blue ones. But I suppose I'll have to ask someone at Shelby first! Ahhh, but I digress. I'm a procrastinator extraordinaire. Maybe Jer will see this and chime in with his $0.02 worth... But for now, does anyone know/remember what size the end holes are on the Shelby fuel rails? I can't remember if they're dash 8 or dash 10. I have to order the fittings regardless of what color I end up with. Phill Phill, I think (long time ago), I ordered AN8 O-ring size on the rail side (and AN6 male fitting on the hose side). http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-220167b AN8 is 3/4-16 thread size I think. Can someone confirm? Of course you need one plug + three AN fittings! I used a straight one for the inlet and two 90° for the crossover on the rear of the rails Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96redvettelt4 Posted November 6, 2012 Report Share Posted November 6, 2012 You can't powder coat the TVS like that, it would require you to take the whole thing fully apart, including all seals and all bearings... Tracking. Does anyone know if the paint Stiemeiyer uses is high temp or anything special? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Freak Posted November 7, 2012 Report Share Posted November 7, 2012 First you have to get all the fittings and the crossover tube or hose. That is not available at SHELBY. Why? Don't know... Then, the stainless steel tabs are too long and the fuel rails are too far apart from the supercharger, even when the tabs are pressed against it, using all what can be used of their bolt's slots. That equals to your injectors not being square in their bores in the manifold and in the fuel rails. They are angled, the top leaning against the valve cover on each side. It does not leak, but I just don't think it's good to have the O-rings work at an angle (in the upper and lower bores). If you shorten (cut) the tabs, you will open the slot for the bolts. But that is not terminal. You could live with that... BUT then the fuel inlet fitting provided by SHELBY will make contact with the water neck of the manifold... Not good to play like that with fuel !!! So what I am doing now is machining new shorter SS tabs + getting another fitting that is not having the bent tube, causing the clearance problem. Talk about a "bolt-on"...!!! Wow. Screw all that. I'll stick with the stockers for a while. I wonder if the TVS being wider is causing the fuel rails to hit and not go in all the way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crushinator Posted November 12, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 12, 2012 I added a few more goodies the past 2 days. UPS dropped off my Ford Racing 65mm throttlebody and Afco dual fan heat exchanger. The t/b was a no brainer and took about 15 minutes to install. The heat exchanger on the other hand was a bit more involved. I've watched the videos and read the threads over and over, but nothing really prepares you until you dive in and do it. The wiring was my biggest worry but have to say,but it was probably the easiest part. Routing the wiring harness proved to be time consuming, but it wasn't too bad at all. The instructions are fairly vague, but are somwhat helpful. All-in-all, it took me about 4 hours from the time I removed the first clip from the radiator shroud til I installed the last one when it was all back together. Ran into a problem that seems to be fairly common as the pump would not move any water in the intercooler reservior tank. I read a tip that you have to squeezing the hose going into the pump to "jump start" it, and it really worked. Thankfully! So hopefully I'll get a day off work next week and finally be able to get it dyno'd to see how much of a jump I've made. After reading other people's dyno results and watching countless TVS dyno videos on youtube, I'm really hoping for 660h/640t at the wheels. We shall see! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
patrickshelby Posted November 12, 2012 Report Share Posted November 12, 2012 I added a few more goodies the past 2 days. UPS dropped off my Ford Racing 65mm throttlebody and Afco dual fan heat exchanger. The t/b was a no brainer and took about 15 minutes to install. The heat exchanger on the other hand was a bit more involved. I've watched the videos and read the threads over and over, but nothing really prepares you until you dive in and do it. The wiring was my biggest worry but have to say,but it was probably the easiest part. Routing the wiring harness proved to be time consuming, but it wasn't too bad at all. The instructions are fairly vague, but are somwhat helpful. All-in-all, it took me about 4 hours from the time I removed the first clip from the radiator shroud til I installed the last one when it was all back together. Ran into a problem that seems to be fairly common as the pump would not move any water in the intercooler reservior tank. I read a tip that you have to squeezing the hose going into the pump to "jump start" it, and it really worked. Thankfully! So hopefully I'll get a day off work next week and finally be able to get it dyno'd to see how much of a jump I've made. After reading other people's dyno results and watching countless TVS dyno videos on youtube, I'm really hoping for 660h/640t at the wheels. We shall see! Your combo should be quite efficient and powerful! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crushinator Posted November 12, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 12, 2012 I just got back from a pretty spirited drive to test out the new tune and check for leaks. From a driveability standpoint, Justin's tune is spot on. It feels 100% like a stock car. Glad to report that there are no leaks and this thing is a complete animal! I'm sure I'm done adding horsepower. Now I have to get some tires. I think I may go for a 305 drag radial. I really wish I had the money for a set of 4 Michelin Cup tires, but they are crazy expensive. Temp was in the mid 60's today and this thing just blew the tires away at about 70 MPH. I used to own a Paxton blown Z06 that made around 700 at the wheels, and the Shelby feels damn near the same as that car. The coolest part about the Shelby is that I've done every single mod myself. Unlike the Z06 that I paid almost $20,000 for someone else to do the work. Damn I love this car! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
svtkeith Posted November 12, 2012 Report Share Posted November 12, 2012 I just got back from a pretty spirited drive to test out the new tune and check for leaks. From a driveability standpoint, Justin's tune is spot on. It feels 100% like a stock car. Glad to report that there are no leaks and this thing is a complete animal! I'm sure I'm done adding horsepower. Now I have to get some tires. I think I may go for a 305 drag radial. I really wish I had the money for a set of 4 Michelin Cup tires, but they are crazy expensive. Temp was in the mid 60's today and this thing just blew the tires away at about 70 MPH. I used to own a Paxton blown Z06 that made around 700 at the wheels, and the Shelby feels damn near the same as that car. The coolest part about the Shelby is that I've done every single mod myself. Unlike the Z06 that I paid almost $20,000 for someone else to do the work. Damn I love this car! As you should crush..great work bud..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slowbra1 Posted November 14, 2012 Report Share Posted November 14, 2012 Crush, I run my plug gap at .032, no issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
patrickshelby Posted May 5, 2013 Report Share Posted May 5, 2013 Here are some pics of my 13 TVS with VMP 2.4 and also added FRPP 65, JLT 123, NGK TR6's, and 72's on my 12. Love this power and torque! Enviiyou, Did VMP make the tune you are using or did you have a custom tune done on a dyno? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BAD SNAKE Posted June 9, 2013 Report Share Posted June 9, 2013 First you have to get all the fittings and the crossover tube or hose. That is not available at SHELBY. Why? Don't know... Then, the stainless steel tabs are too long and the fuel rails are too far apart from the supercharger, even when the tabs are pressed against it, using all what can be used of their bolt's slots. That equals to your injectors not being square in their bores in the manifold and in the fuel rails. They are angled, the top leaning against the valve cover on each side. It does not leak, but I just don't think it's good to have the O-rings work at an angle (in the upper and lower bores). If you shorten (cut) the tabs, you will open the slot for the bolts. But that is not terminal. You could live with that... BUT then the fuel inlet fitting provided by SHELBY will make contact with the water neck of the manifold... Not good to play like that with fuel !!! So what I am doing now is machining new shorter SS tabs + getting another fitting that is not having the bent tube, causing the clearance problem. Talk about a "bolt-on"...!!! Too bad about the fitment with the Shelby Fuel Rails. I bought the Fore rails and they fit perfect and looks great! http://www.foreinnovations.com/product_p/6-900.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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