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Annyone with 5th generation Supersnake hood?


Kempf

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Hi!

 

I Finally got a Supersnake hood and some other parts installed, 2.5 upper and 10% lower + some other parts, but still the stock 2007 supercharger.

 

The newest generation Supersnake hood does not have any holes for airflow at all, I know that they had problems with to much air disturbing the mass air sensor. But with my new mods the enginecompartment becomes extreemly hot. So I am thinking about drilling some holes myself, to get some cooling for the supercharger. Has anybody here done that with the new hood?

 

Any advice how to do it right, or if I should let it be the way it is would be very appreciated.

 

Thanks in advance!

Stephan

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Hi!

 

Here I will make some more when I come home from work, Stripes will come on on Tuesday and I will tell the guys to fix the holes for the airflow, if I can get the right info for it here.

 

 

 

Stephan

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Here is the thread I mentioned on SVTPerf.com related to your question.............

 

http://www.teamshelby.com/forums/index.php/topic/71913-well-i-guess-this-answers-the-2007-2009-functional-hood-question/page__hl__%2Bsuper+%2Bsnake+%2Bhood__fromsearch__1

 

 

I forgot, I was the one who started that thread!?!?

 

 

 

R

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Hi!

 

Thanks!

 

sorry for asking when it gets to techikal my English could need some improovement, did you do anything to open it up? I am thinking about cutting the front a little and drill some holes so that the supercharger

will be cooled when I am on the Autobahn. Do you think that it will weaken the design?

 

 

Stephan

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 1 month later...

Hi!

 

No holes drilled as of yet, still trying to figure out if I shall do it or not, and how.

 

I have had some more important things to get fixed on the car.

 

Driveshaft vibration ( 2 months of calibrating and testing, The weather is a bitch at the moment) Still working on it. And now the Clutch starts to slip.

 

Will let you know and post pictures.

 

Stephan

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Hi Stephan

 

I actually bought the SS hood too. It is at the body shop now for modification and paint. I think we figured out a different way to open the snorkel up to allow fresh air into the engine bay. It will be 2-3 weeks before all is said and done so if you can wait that long I will post pics and explanation on what was done.

 

Thanks

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  • 1 month later...
  • 4 months later...

Hi!

 

 

It seems that it was to good to be true, Now Im am almost done modding, and getting ready to drive the beast for the summer,

something new comes up. A nice crack in the Supersnake hood. Is this something that is common with these hoods?

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Hi Kempf. Sorry to hear :-( Haven't noticed any cracks on mine. My body shop did tell me that fiber glass hoods often have issues like this. They also told me to be careful opening and closing the hood (ie, no slamming). I'm sure you don't slam yours though :-) Thanks.

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  • 1 year later...

i keep telling van i want to do it, but he keeps saying no. im not sure where he lives, but arizona is hot. im sure 6 holes at 1/2 wouldnt bother the cai... even 4 i bet would help alot. SO ARE WE DRILLING HOLES OR WHAT?!

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i keep telling van i want to do it, but he keeps saying no. im not sure where he lives, but arizona is hot. im sure 6 holes at 1/2 wouldnt bother the cai... even 4 i bet would help alot. SO ARE WE DRILLING HOLES OR WHAT?!

 

Van? As in C. Van Collier, aka Revan Racing? He is in Florida.

 

As for the "how"...Holesaw. I'd drill the pilot hole with a step-drill then the final hole with a good SLOOOOOOW hole saw and watch the amount of pressure applied (e.g. let the TOOL do the work, not the elbow).

 

The original issue with the 'true scoop' was the engine would die at very high speeds when the clutch was depressed. I saw the same video clip that Robert M. refers to (either in this thread or another associated thread).

 

It was said that the increased air flow PRE MAF was "blowing out the candle (flame)" so the answer was to limit the air flow by reducing the amojnt of holes and eventually eliminating them.

 

But hey, how often does a guy take his car to 180mph? Not often so I don't think I personally would worry about blowing out the flame if I had a SS hood. Just too rare of a occasion to be concerned, IMHO.

 

But back to the OP and his concern about underhood heat/temps. Don't you/they have the vents at the rear of the hood to allow airflow in the eng. compartment and let the heat out via the vents???

 

 

Phill

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ah yes, i remember this car. i wished to do that but im poor. so i came up with my hole drilling idea. nice car. i finally got those rims too, i have tungsten grey stripes though and its a pain in the ass trying to find them

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Van? As in C. Van Collier, aka Revan Racing? He is in Florida.

 

As for the "how"...Holesaw. I'd drill the pilot hole with a step-drill then the final hole with a good SLOOOOOOW hole saw and watch the amount of pressure applied (e.g. let the TOOL do the work, not the elbow).

 

The original issue with the 'true scoop' was the engine would die at very high speeds when the clutch was depressed. I saw the same video clip that Robert M. refers to (either in this thread or another associated thread).

 

It was said that the increased air flow PRE MAF was "blowing out the candle (flame)" so the answer was to limit the air flow by reducing the amojnt of holes and eventually eliminating them.

 

But hey, how often does a guy take his car to 180mph? Not often so I don't think I personally would worry about blowing out the flame if I had a SS hood. Just too rare of a occasion to be concerned, IMHO.

 

But back to the OP and his concern about underhood heat/temps. Don't you/they have the vents at the rear of the hood to allow airflow in the eng. compartment and let the heat out via the vents???

 

 

Phill

yea but then youre relying on heat rising. youre still getting hot air from the headers, which by the way we all should invest in the jet hot coating... that goes up to the tube for the air intake. i just like the idea of the engine being helped. i mean the 13 and 14s have a huge hole cut out of the grills compared to mine and i know that helps blow wind into the compartment. no wonder hes always at power by the hour and these bad ass places and has low emissions standards. van needs to quit bs'ing and sell more stuff at a discount

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when i use to do construction if we were drilling into steel wed use a 5/32", 1/8" drill bit then a 1/4" then a 3/16" and so on until we got it big enough to anchor a screw in. i kinda like that idea more unless youve used a holesaw for these carbon fiber hoods

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yea but then youre relying on heat rising. youre still getting hot air from the headers, which by the way we all should invest in the jet hot coating...

 

I was thinking more along the lines of airflow from the front grille, over/through the radiator & IC into the engine bay and them 'forced' out the vents in the rear of the hood.

 

And yeah, I have the FRPP Jet-hot coated headers and I don't notice any heat at all coming off of them. Not just less than a non coated header but less than the OEM exh. manifolds too.

 

I have a 2010 with the fresh air intake tube from the front of the grille into the airbox. It's not *that* big but yes, it does take air from the forward facing inlet and put it into the airbox.

 

FWIW, it's not for "FORCED air", it's for COOL air. Take it right from the very front of the car before it gets heated up by the radiator.

 

 

Phill

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air over the radiator? what are you visualizing to do that. if that kenne bell texas miles cai wasnt so expensive id buy that. so youre also saying its worth it for the jet hot?

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when i use to do construction if we were drilling into steel wed use a 5/32", 1/8" drill bit then a 1/4" then a 3/16" and so on until we got it big enough to anchor a screw in. i kinda like that idea more unless youve used a holesaw for these carbon fiber hoods

 

You have a Carbon Fiber hood?????

 

I didn't know anyone other than Plasan made one and that was for the KR. FWIW, most 'Carbon Fiber" parts you see on the market are actually composite. Mostely fiberglass with a carbon fiber outer skin to give you the appearance of CF.

 

My grandson raced Quarter Midgets and we have fiberglass bodies and body panels on them. I've drilled a shitpot of holes for the dzues fasteners. The first time I had to replace one I was lost so I called the Mfgr. and asked them how to drill the holes. Yep, STEP DRILL for smaller holes (up to about 1/2") and hole saw for the larger holes.

 

I've done it (many times) and it works. No guessing, no "I heard it from Joe" or "I THINK you can do it this way, etc. Actual first hand experience on my part.

 

A fluted drill will catch and tear the fiberglass which is why you use the step drill for the pilot hole for the hole saw. Drill it first then use the hole for the fluted drill the hole saw has for the center point.

 

And again, don't PUSH the saw or drill through, let the tool do the cutting (VERY light pressure on your part).

 

 

Phill

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air over the radiator? what are you visualizing to do that.

 

More of a figure of speech, or a technical term. Generally or widely used to describe airflow past the radiator.

 

I don't mean "over" as in over the top of the radiator but rather through the fins.

 

 

Phill

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so youre also saying its worth it for the jet hot?

 

Yes! If I had it to do all over again, I wouldn't hesitate to get the coated vs. non-coated headers or coat your OEM exh. manifolds if you wanted to keep it stock looking.

 

That shit really works. A bit expensive but really keeps the underhood temps down.

 

 

Phill

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if that kenne bell texas miles cai wasnt so expensive id buy that.

 

 

What is that? Got a link?

 

I talked to the KB boys out in Vegas at the MCA 50th and saw their IC heat exchanger next to a SVT '13/'14 heat exchanger. They hadn't brought it to market yet so is that what you're talking about?

 

Interested in hearing more....

 

 

Phill

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http://www.revanracing.com/products/revan-racing-texas-mile-big-air-intake.html

 

hmm, so spp lied to me, i thought this hood i got from tasca was carbon fiber. i have kooks long tubes so ill try it when im getting my engine machined and installing parts. i think its only like 130$ for each layer, outside, then inside is just over 300 total. i forgot what site but its on this forum and shouldnt be hard to find. since its not carbon fiber then i shouldnt have to worry as much for drilling but ill still be safe as youre saying the gun does the work.

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