Clutch drag TSB 4th revision - $1,438.18 if you have to pay for it

[whitemare]

whitemare,

How did your purchase go with this supplier? They do seem to have excellent pricing. Any issue with border etc...

Cheers

According to UPS tracking I will receive items tomorrow. Will post an update then . Mark

[Moncho]

So how does the amount of pressure required to press in the clutch compare between the '07 OEM & the '10 OEM clutch? Is it about the same or is it easier. I'm aware of the drivability improvement as it relates to chatter but wanted to know about the pressure difference if any.

 

Cheers,

Ray

[Grabber]

So how does the amount of pressure required to press in the clutch compare between the '07 OEM & the '10 OEM clutch? Is it about the same or is it easier. I'm aware of the drivability improvement as it relates to chatter but wanted to know about the pressure difference if any.

 

Cheers,

Ray

The amount of pressure is a lot less. Way less. The difference between night and day.

[Moncho]

^ Thanks for the quick reply!

 

Cheers,

Ray

[ingram4868]

I agree with Rob, the difference is amazing. The pressure is light and the smoothness upon clutch release is great. With the OEM setup I was always trying to find the sweet spot when balancing RPM and release speed. I would often stall if these balances were not absolutely perfect. Now I don't even think about it. I have not stalled the car with the new setup. I have also tested on level ground slowly releasing the clutch without giving it any gas and I can proceed without stalling.

[GT500THUNDER]

According to UPS tracking I will receive items tomorrow. Will post an update then . Mark

Thanks, I would like to hear how they do.

And also how the swap goes too.

Cheers

[Moncho]

Thanks Ingram. Excellent feedback. Car is currently in the shop for the '10 clutch replacement.

 

Cheers,

Ray

Edited July 29, 2013 by Moncho

[Moncho]

New '10 clutch installation completed by RWR Motorsports here in Colorado. Test driven by Rob (owner) and his feedback was he couldn't believe how easy the clutch pressure was compared to the '07 OEM. Once I got behind the wheel and initially pressed the clutch I couldn't believe it myself. Drove the car, went through several gears and couldn't help but smile on my initial impressions. Shifting is like butter with no chatter when going up my driveway, in all honesty simply a pleasure to drive. Will take some getting used to as the clutch grabs sooner than later. Seems as though there is slight play when initially pressing the clutch in (@ least that's what it feels like and subjective). Don't know if this is what some others are experiencing? Although the '07 clutch wasn't slipping the swap out was a necessity. 3 weeks ago I hyperextended my knee due to a combination of the '07 clutch and incorrect seat adjustment.

 

Thanks Rob (Grabber) and all that have contributed to this thread.

 

Cheers,

Ray

[Grabber]

According to UPS tracking I will receive items tomorrow. Will post an update then . Mark

Since you are doing this yourself....you better read this post:

 

http://www.teamshelby.com/forums/index.php/topic/81017-clutch-transmission-07gt500/?do=findComment&comment=1460756

[whitemare]

Well all the parts arrived yesterday. No issues what so ever. The biggest difference I have found was in the price....even with duty ( $67) the parts were $903 less by ordering online than I could get in Canada. Now if I could just find an h-pipe while I have her in the air... Mark

[speedrx]

I am going to have to look at this upgrade for my 2009. My car has the Platinum warranty up to 2015 so I would love to get the TSB under Warranty, I see some have been successful.

 

Can anyone share what they did to get it covered under warranty and what warranty they have? If I have to pay for it myself, the price does not worry me near as much as who is doing the work and finding the right Ford mechanic you can trust.

[whitemare]

Well the guy who is going to be helping me has to go out of town for a week so I won't be doing anything till next wednesday.I have a feeling its going to be a long week waiting till he returns. I have all the tools I should need , but the hoist. Thirty years ago I may have tried it on jackstands ,but now I figure I will wait.

Thanks for the link Grabber. I was checking out the goodies last nite when I realized my universal clutch tool won't work . Sounds like a slick way to get the pilot out....I had been thinking of a way to make a puller but will definitely try the TP and water.

[Grabber]

Your welcome. When I read that post....I thought of you.

 

Hope all goes well on your installation.

[whitemare]

Thanks Grabber. I'll be sure to post next week once the job is done. Mark

[SteelSteeds]

Rotating the trans onto its side in the tunnel to get it out and in on jack stands is a issue. Ask SteelSteeds. He would never attempt it again and wished he would of hired it out.

 

Yes, I did say that. Now that it's done though, the sense of satisfaction is immense. Funny how time smooths over the frustrations and pain, leaves you with the good stuff.

 

I will definitively never do this job on ramps/stands again though. I hope by the time I need another clutch in this car that I have a lift in my shop. I think with a combination of a lift, tranny jack, and the experience of having done it once, that I would consider doing it myself again if necessary. I'm a bit crazy that way. I just don't like other people messing with my cars, and I turn a pretty mean wrench.

 

Good luck on your install Thunder!

[Grabber]

Lance - Was your test drive a success ?

[GT500THUNDER]

Well the guy who is going to be helping me has to go out of town for a week so I won't be doing anything till next wednesday.I have a feeling its going to be a long week waiting till he returns. I have all the tools I should need , but the hoist. Thirty years ago I may have tried it on jackstands ,but now I figure I will wait.

Thanks for the link Grabber. I was checking out the goodies last nite when I realized my universal clutch tool won't work . Sounds like a slick way to get the pilot out....I had been thinking of a way to make a puller but will definitely try the TP and water.

I have used a similar method to remove pilot bearings. I have packed the bearing with a heavy grease and use the same principle. Getting the right diameter tool to squeeze the grease is the secret.

Good luck and kept us posted. Cheers

[SteelSteeds]

Lance - Was your test drive a success ?

 

Absolutely! I am extremely happy with my new SPEC clutch. I have been a grinning fool for four days now, roaring around in my extremely dirty Shelby. Tomorrow it will be getting a thorough bath. I have about 50 miles on the new clutch. I'm aiming to have my 300 mile break-in done by the time of the cruise on the 10th.

 

I have used a similar method to remove pilot bearings. I have packed the bearing with a heavy grease and use the same principle. Getting the right diameter tool to squeeze the grease is the secret.

Good luck and kept us posted. Cheers

 

I've done that before too, and tried it on my GT500 with no luck at all. I finally had to go buy a slide hammer puller, and even with that I was shocked at how much force it took to get that pilot bearing out of there. It actually tore the race out of the bearing after 5 hard hits, and then I was able to seat the puller better behind the outer portion of the bearing with the race gone, and it took another 3-4 hard hits before it even budged. That sucker was REALLY in there. The new bearing tapped in with ease.

[wingsnut]

I've tried using grease to remove pilot bearings in the past..........makes a mess. Now I just use some water soaked bread. As mentioned above, finding the correct diameter tool to fit inside the bearing is the key to success.

Chip

[whitemare]

Well the dis-assembly has begun. The tranny is all unbolted ,but can't seem to get the sucker out. We have tried turning it ,twisting it ,you name it. It seems we can't get it far enough back to get the shaft free of the pressure plate. We managed to separate the engine/tranny by about 3" but then we wedge in the tunnel. Even jacked on the crank pulley ( very very gently) to try to angle the tranny out of the tunnel ,but still no luck. Frustration was running high last nite so we decided to give her another go later tonite.

As far as everything else coming apart , the bell housing bolts were easy with wobble extensions ,as mentioned here on the site. We did manage to break 2 manifold studs ,one per side. All in all we have nearly 4 hours in so far . Certainly open to any suggestions to get the SOB the rest of the way out.........

Mark

[wingsnut]

Loosening the cradle bolts might give you a bit more room.

Chip

[GT500THUNDER]

Well the dis-assembly has begun. The tranny is all unbolted ,but can't seem to get the sucker out. We have tried turning it ,twisting it ,you name it. It seems we can't get it far enough back to get the shaft free of the pressure plate. We managed to separate the engine/tranny by about 3" but then we wedge in the tunnel. Even jacked on the crank pulley ( very very gently) to try to angle the tranny out of the tunnel ,but still no luck. Frustration was running high last nite so we decided to give her another go later tonite.

As far as everything else coming apart , the bell housing bolts were easy with wobble extensions ,as mentioned here on the site. We did manage to break 2 manifold studs ,one per side. All in all we have nearly 4 hours in so far . Certainly open to any suggestions to get the SOB the rest of the way out.........

Mark

Whitemare, I have not removed one of these so I can't offer any suggestions. Take some time away and come back to it. I find that helps when up against a difficult problem.

Would like to hear how it goes. Cheers

[whitemare]

Whitemare, I have not removed one of these so I can't offer any suggestions. Take some time away and come back to it. I find that helps when up against a difficult problem.

Would like to hear how it goes. Cheers

You were dead right on that one . We loosened the 8 bolts holding the k-frame in ,allowing the engine to lower. Then the jack on the pulley tipped it enough that we got it out in no time , under 30 minutes. Now the putting 'er back together starts ,tomorrow nite. Its midnite here and work will come early but will update when the time comes. Thanks for the encouragement guys . Mark

[SteelSteeds]

It definitely helps to jack up the front of the motor a bit, but make sure to remove your strut tower brace for clearance. Even then, you can only go so far before things start crunching into the firewall. Gentle is the word of the day. After that, get two guys under the car and you literally have to rotate the transmission 180 degrees in place. The top of the bell hits the tunnel, as you've learned. It has to be pointed down, and then you can pull the transmission back far enough to free the input shaft. Patience, and muscles. Not a job to do alone, unless you have some fancy tools...

 

Edit: posted this before I realized there was another page. Glad to hear it's out. As the books like to say, "Installation is the reverse of removal." B)

 

 

Edited August 9, 2013 by SteelSteeds

[whitemare]

Didn't have much time to work on it tonite but managed to get the clutch/pressure plate assembly and the flywheel off. Tons of the black dust! Tackling the broken manifold studs and pilot bearing in the morning My 08 parts and the 2010 parts are not even similar looking ,prompting rapid fire questions from the missus. " Don't worry...we got a mini grinder and JB weld ...it'll fit" She didn't think much of that. She thinks its her car , if you can freakin' imagine.

Mark

[whitemare]

Its all together!! Off now to bleed the clutch . Anyone know what the break-in is for the 2010 clutch? Mark

Edited August 12, 2013 by whitemare

[Grabber]

Its all together!! Off now to bleed the clutch . Anyone know what the break-in is for the 2010 clutch? Mark

I would give it 300 miles.

[wingsnut]

300-500 miles of city driving, freeway miles don't count,

[whitemare]

Ok thats easy enough ,I guess. Can I "have a little fun " or should I drive it like a little old lady? I did take it for a quick trip around the local streets just to try it out. After I picked up my wife and son that is. Sure is nice to get her out again , its been near a month since the clutch issue started and we parked it.

Had a couple issues that set us back a bit ....first was broken manifold studs , one on each side . Luckily some penetrating oil applied and then wrapped with a plastic bag (thinking it might not evaporate as quick) did the trick .Went back the next day and gave another squirt and they came right out. Would you believe $ 37 each stud ??? Thank god they included the nut! As it turned out ,none in town . The parts guy at the local dealer suggested F-150 studs because he was sure the nuts were the same size. Good enough ,they were only $25 for both.They worked fine.

The biggest obstacle was the pilot bearing. I even tried bread and water and then grease after that didn't work , but no luck. A homemade device managed to pull the center out but that was it. Went to the local tool retailer and bought a blind hole hammer puller. I beat that SOB till I was blue in the face and it never moved a hair. Between the two of us we pulled and pulled until the removal tool literally shaved material off the race we were pulling on and came right thru the damn thing. I ended up getting my cordless drill out and drilled a couple holes in the face of the outer race on opposite sides. A couple cracks on the edge of the race with a chisel brought it out in 2 pieces. A tiny scratch on the crank where the new bearing was going was the only evidence of such crude tool work.

After that everything went well . We had dropped the k-frame allready so aligning the tranny with the dowels was pretty easy. Getting the transmission pulled tight to the block was hard to do.We tried for a long time to wiggle them together until finally decided to try pulling with the bolts. We both disliked that approach but nothing else was working . Turns out it only took maybe 3-4 pounds torque on the bolts to pull it together once we started so no damage for sure.

Next time ,if there is one , I will lower my k-frame right away. Could have saved 2-3 hours there alone. If the stupid pilot bearing didn't want to pull out , I would drill it out.It is way softer metal than the crank so not an issue. And for sure I would pull the block/ tranny together using the bolts. It was obvious by the ease that the bolts went in that we were not forcing anything.

Grabber , it was largely the information you provided that gave me the info I needed to get er done. As well as your endorsement of the 2010 set-up ,it is everything you said so far. Much ,much easier clutch pedal. Thank you!

Everyone else who chimed in , thanks to you as well . This site is top notch and an invaluable wealth of knowledge and information due to the people who use it.

To the fella that did this without a hoist...my hat is off to you! Mark

[Grabber]

Your break in driving does not have to be little old lady driving. Drive it normal but not to aggressive. You can be a little aggressive, but just do not take it too far. Break it in on city roads, not the freeway. Do some good shifting. Enjoy it !