Wax and detailing

[Mulanzo]

This is sort of an offshoot of this topic but I thought it relevant.

 

Basically, I want to do this to my car: http://www.detailedi...-by-autolavish/

 

I went out and bought a dual action polisher, got some too-expensive cleaning products, and am going to town on my car. After that, I planned on putting a clear bra on all susceptible areas because my rockers are looking raw and my front end has seen better days in terms of stone dings and chips.

 

My question is - will polishing with megs 105 and a surbuf pad clear up the road rash behind the rockers and what is the proper way to deal with the stone dings and chips in the plastic bumper. I've tried the Langka system to fill the dings and smooth them out but, as my car is Kona, the touch up paint isn't quite exact and its very visible that some touching up was done. It also doesn't do much for the raised plastic around the border of the ding. Will megs105 with surbuf pad erase or mask those areas off better and should I sand out some of the raised plastic edges around the stone chips prior to using the megs105? Also, will the megs 105 better blend the touched up dings into the factory paint or will it further amplify their visibility?

 

Should I just bite the bullet and have the whole bumper (and random stone dings around the rest of the car) professionally sanded and resprayed, polished, and clear bra'd?

 

My process was going to be as follows:

 

1. Foam Wash with power washer, then rinse.

2. Second foam wash + hand wash, then rinse

3. Third foam wash followed by clay bar, then rinse

4. Megs 105 + Surbuf with a PC DA

5. Megs 205 + White pad with PC DA

6. 3M Ultrafine Machine Polish on Blue or Black pad with PC DA

7. Last wash with power washer, heavy surfactant cleaner, then rinse

8. Wax with Collinite Insulator 845

 

Also, could I safely do a wet sand of the front end using a 1500-3000 grit sandpaper to clear up the front end without chewing through the clear or is that tempting fate? Keep in mind I've never done any of this before! In an area where I watched an old lady lightly back into my bumper, she left a bit of a scuff and some removed paint along the sharp beveled edge just under the passenger headlamp. Seeing the plastic underneath, it doesn't look like the paint is very thick!

 

Also, best tips for dealing with the tape stripes? Wax over them? Polish them? Bad Idea? Does the clear bra go over the tape or is it cut around?

 

HELP! ... is much appreciated.

 

edit:

 

Also... I didn't know you could safely do this to a car:

 

I thought it was bad for the engine!? I know it gets wet in the rain, but soap?

 

If this is safe, what is the best way to wash it down? Power washer? Light spray from hose? I want my engine bay to sparkle!

[Ecrissman]

This is sort of an offshoot of this topic but I thought it relevant.

 

Basically, I want to do this to my car: http://www.detailedi...-by-autolavish/

 

I went out and bought a dual action polisher, got some too-expensive cleaning products, and am going to town on my car. After that, I planned on putting a clear bra on all susceptible areas because my rockers are looking raw and my front end has seen better days in terms of stone dings and chips.

 

My question is - will polishing with megs 105 and a surbuf pad clear up the road rash behind the rockers and what is the proper way to deal with the stone dings and chips in the plastic bumper. I've tried the Langka system to fill the dings and smooth them out but, as my car is Kona, the touch up paint isn't quite exact and its very visible that some touching up was done. It also doesn't do much for the raised plastic around the border of the ding. Will megs105 with surbuf pad erase or mask those areas off better and should I sand out some of the raised plastic edges around the stone chips prior to using the megs105? Also, will the megs 105 better blend the touched up dings into the factory paint or will it further amplify their visibility?

 

Meg 105 will help "level" out the touched up paint areas. If the paint doesn't match you will see that. If you can build up the paint repair with the correct color then m105 down to the factory finish you would be pretty happy with the results.

 

Should I just bite the bullet and have the whole bumper (and random stone dings around the rest of the car) professionally sanded and resprayed, polished, and clear bra'd?

 

That would make for a flawless repair.

 

My process was going to be as follows:

 

1. Foam Wash with power washer, then rinse.

2. Second foam wash + hand wash, then rinse

3. Third foam wash followed by clay bar, then rinse

4. Megs 105 + Surbuf with a PC DA

5. Megs 205 + White pad with PC DA

6. 3M Ultrafine Machine Polish on Blue or Black pad with PC DA

7. Last wash with power washer, heavy surfactant cleaner, then rinse

8. Wax with Collinite Insulator 845

 

Also, could I safely do a wet sand of the front end using a 1500-3000 grit sandpaper to clear up the front end without chewing through the clear or is that tempting fate? Keep in mind I've never done any of this before! In an area where I watched an old lady lightly back into my bumper, she left a bit of a scuff and some removed paint along the sharp beveled edge just under the passenger headlamp. Seeing the plastic underneath, it doesn't look like the paint is very thick!

 

I dont know without seeing pictures.

 

Also, best tips for dealing with the tape stripes? Wax over them? Polish them? Bad Idea? Does the clear bra go over the tape or is it cut around?

 

Probably wax, them.. gloss or flat? clear bra goes overtop

 

HELP! ... is much appreciated.

 

[Mulanzo]

Meg 105 will help "level" out the touched up paint areas. If the paint doesn't match you will see that. If you can build up the paint repair with the correct color then m105 down to the factory finish you would be pretty happy with the results.

It's a fairly close match but I'm not sure if it's because it isn't as glossy as the factory paint or if it doesn't have a clear that it just "looks" different. Regardless, should I use a sanding block with a fine grit paper prior to m105 to get it even or will the m105 with the surbuf do that all in one step?

 

That would make for a flawless repair.

I'm just nervous about them matching the paint. Also, lets say I plan to sell in the future, would anyone be able to tell if I didn't point it out? Are there additives in these paints that would make it obvious it was resprayed?

 

I dont know without seeing pictures.

Probably wax, them.. gloss or flat? clear bra goes overtop

They are glossy. Also, what is the best way to clean up the edge of the stripes from older wax applications? On close inspection I noticed a faint white line I feel like I've let my baby down.

[rdrawkit]

That's why I did the 3M Clear Bra at 600 miles.....

[Ecrissman]

Wow the rock chips (sigh) a re-spray is probably the way to go. If you are completely anal you could touch up every single one then cut down with m105. I wouldn't envy you to tackle that, but it would make it better. The scratch is an easy fit, acetone on a painters detail brush ( very small head only has a few bristles) dip then shake clean lightly follow the scratch to clean. Same brush it add primer. Clean use same brush and multiple applications to build up the paint in the scratch until its higher than fact y finish. Wet sand with 200 wrapped over the eraser of an pencil.. leave slightly higher and then run the orange pad with m105. Stay close to that area of repair.

 

I would NOT use a sanding block anywhere.

 

The faint white line may be the color edge of the decal wore off. Don't hit it with 105/205 or you will a more noticeable white line.

 

The car covered with foam was done with a foam cannon. A foam cannon works with a pressure washer to create a thick foam to cover and linger on the car. Its meant to soften and loosen surface contamination before washer. I would not recommend a pressure washer that actually has high pressure. The chips, you have will only become worse as you force water into all of the chips and loosen loosen the paint around the chip.

 

You didn't let your baby down you drive it. They wont stay perfect if you drive them, looks like normal use to me.

 

Touch up the bad chips and scratches. Level the finish, polish, seal and wax. Then drive it and enjoy it.

 

Sorry if this is difficult to follow. Using a Droid to quote and /or write in forums is a pita.!

[ShelbyKR664]

Swear by Professonal Mother's products. I use their clay bar with show time spray, finish with their new synthetic wax. Super easy to put on and take off. No residue. I have a white car and this system really works great. Do not clay the vinyl stripes. I simply wash them with a mild soap. I also use turtle wax's Ice line for the interior plastic. Really cleans well, no oily residue,smells nice too. For the tires, I prefer Meguires hot shine in the aerosol. Lasts for a few weeks and looks natural.

[Mulanzo]

Ok, I don't want to beat a dead horse here but I want to make sure I'm 100% clear on this so I don't ruin Lois' skin further.

 

Wow the rock chips (sigh) a re-spray is probably the way to go.

Is that everywhere (including behind the wheels) or just the dings along the front of the bumper?

 

If you are completely anal

I am....

 

you could touch up every single one then cut down with m105.

Sigh. I was afraid you'd say that. So then when it comes to touching them up, I was using the Langka system so I was building up a blob then cutting it down with some chemical.

If I were to repair the chips and then hit it with m105, should I leave the blob raised and go straight to the m105 or should I flatten it out a bit?

Does the m105 do a good enough job of levelling it out without me prepping the raised spots?

What are the chances of me eating right through the clear using m105 behind the wheels where the rash is worst? I know I can't give you a paint thickness reading, but should there be some wiggle room? It doesn't look like any of the rash has gone through the clear as they look white, not blue or metal (or rusty).

 

The scratch is an easy fit, acetone on a painters detail brush ( very small head only has a few bristles) dip then shake clean lightly follow the scratch to clean. Same brush it add primer. Clean use same brush and multiple applications to build up the paint in the scratch until its higher than fact y finish. Wet sand with 200 wrapped over the eraser of an pencil.. leave slightly higher and then run the orange pad with m105. Stay close to that area of repair.

So:

1. Acetone with a painters brush to clean the wound all along

2. Paint primer on the bare exposed plastic using the same brush. How much? Just to lightly cover the plastic?

3. Add touch up paint until it is raised.

4. Am I reading right...200 grit?

5. After running the m105 on the orange pad, should I put down any clear or anything? Wax is enough?

 

I would NOT use a sanding block anywhere.

How do I go about levelling the raised plastic edges of the chips? The stones pushed in and displaced the plastic causing it to rise up above the surface. I'm afraid that the rough edged plastic may rip the polishing pads rather than get sanded down.

 

The car covered with foam was done with a foam cannon. A foam cannon works with a pressure washer to create a thick foam to cover and linger on the car. Its meant to soften and loosen surface contamination before washer. I would not recommend a pressure washer that actually has high pressure. The chips, you have will only become worse as you force water into all of the chips and loosen loosen the paint around the chip.

What about in the engine bay?

 

You didn't let your baby down you drive it. They wont stay perfect if you drive them,

Not if I have anything to say about it!

 

Sorry if this is difficult to follow. Using a Droid to quote and /or write in forums is a pita.!

On the contrary, you've been extremely helpful and clear and I'd buy you a steak were you a little closer.

[IngotSilverSnake]

It's a fairly close match but I'm not sure if it's because it isn't as glossy as the factory paint or if it doesn't have a clear that it just "looks" different. Regardless, should I use a sanding block with a fine grit paper prior to m105 to get it even or will the m105 with the surbuf do that all in one step?

 

 

I'm just nervous about them matching the paint. Also, lets say I plan to sell in the future, would anyone be able to tell if I didn't point it out? Are there additives in these paints that would make it obvious it was resprayed?

 

 

 

They are glossy. Also, what is the best way to clean up the edge of the stripes from older wax applications? On close inspection I noticed a faint white line I feel like I've let my baby down.

 

I have to ask you -- where in the heck are you driving to get so many stone chips? Do you work in a gravel pit? I have no marks at all on my my 2012 Shelby. There are also none on my wifes 2011 BMW. And, there are no stone chips on my 2001 Ram after 90K miles. Oh, thats right, I use LIquid Glass on my vehicles. Maybe that is the difference.

[Mulanzo]

Not a gravel pit but every major route in Toronto is basically under construction. When one job is finished, the next start up. It's aggravating. Not to mention the 10,000 Semi Trucks and Dump trucks that drive along the single highway that cuts through town. No real way around it. All that gunk builds up on the sides of the road and every once in a while you get the guy in front that falls asleep at the wheel or checks his txt msgs, swerves to the side and rolls over the embanked debris, kicking it up into the car. I don't typically follow closely but you can't plan for the actions of idiots and every so often I hear a ding and am reminded that I need to be 50 ft away for safety.

 

Re: Liquid Glass.... sounds like a good product. Don't know if it's really the right one for me now that the damage is done though. I'll first look into repairing this and then I'll look into those products. I was also considering a clear bra just because I know the roads are so ridiculous over here. And not to question the strengths of Liquid glass.. but if your car is Ingot, I highly suspect it would be a lot harder to notice the type of damage that has occurred on my front end on your car because mine is quite a bit darker and unfortunately contrasts better with the dings and scratches. That being said, I do believe that your cars look better than mine as mine has no protection at all ( stupid...).

 

As this was my first car, I didn't really have the wisdom or foresight to think about investing in that type of protection when I got it. I was too busy rowing through the gears....

 

...come to think of it.... I bet a lot of babies were brought into this world under similar circumstances.

 

Back to the topic at hand...

 

Has anyone tried Opti-Coat 2.0? I hear if you have a perfectly corrected car it is a godsend... anyone? Does it work over vinyl stripes?

[Ecrissman]

Ok, I don't want to beat a dead horse here but I want to make sure I'm 100% clear on this so I don't ruin Lois' skin further.

 

 

Is that everywhere (including behind the wheels) or just the dings along the front of the bumper?

 

I am....

 

 

Sigh. I was afraid you'd say that. So then when it comes to touching them up, I was using the Langka system so I was building up a blob then cutting it down with some chemical.

If I were to repair the chips and then hit it with m105, should I leave the blob raised and go straight to the m105 or should I flatten it out a bit?

Does the m105 do a good enough job of levelling it out without me prepping the raised spots?

What are the chances of me eating right through the clear using m105 behind the wheels where the rash is worst? I know I can't give you a paint thickness reading, but should there be some wiggle room? It doesn't look like any of the rash has gone through the clear as they look white, not blue or metal (or rusty).

 

 

So:

1. Acetone with a painters brush to clean the wound all along

2. Paint primer on the bare exposed plastic using the same brush. How much? Just to lightly cover the plastic?

3. Add touch up paint until it is raised.

4. Am I reading right...200 grit?

 

**Sorry typo 2000 wet sanded

 

5. After running the m105 on the orange pad, should I put down any clear or anything? Wax is enough?

 

*** m105 followed by m205 here is a handy chart...

http://www.autopiaforums.com/forums/detail-institute-presented-autopia-carcare-com/31619-meguiars-m105-m205-polish-pad-application-guideline-chart.html

 

How do I go about levelling the raised plastic edges of the chips? The stones pushed in and displaced the plastic causing it to rise up above the surface. I'm afraid that the rough edged plastic may rip the polishing pads rather than get sanded down.

 

I think you will do more harm than good sanding the plastic. Just tape off the edges you buffer may come in contact with so you dont destroy your pad.

 

What about in the engine bay?

 

Foam cannon would be great then just sheet the water from a hose with no nozzle. Obviously dont soak electronics. If you dont want to rinse use a damp rag to wipe loosened dirt.

 

Not if I have anything to say about it!

 

 

On the contrary, you've been extremely helpful and clear and I'd buy you a steak were you a little closer.

 

 

Well I personally really enjoy the results of detailing. I hate the work involved to get those results but it's worth it. To give you an idea of my personality once I have a car completely done ( they're really never 100% perfect) I procrastinate driving them just because I don't want to get them dirty. I know its a sickness.

 

I will say it again though with the amount of damage you have I would consider having a shop re-spray. If the majority of chips are only in the clear like you mentioned. A simple touch up deep chips and wet sand of the repairs and clear coat and re-shoot the clear, buff it out and you are looking brand new.

[Ecrissman]

Ok, I don't want to beat a dead horse here but I want to make sure I'm 100% clear on this so I don't ruin Lois' skin further.

 

 

Is that everywhere (including behind the wheels) or just the dings along the front of the bumper?

 

I am....

 

 

Sigh. I was afraid you'd say that. So then when it comes to touching them up, I was using the Langka system so I was building up a blob then cutting it down with some chemical.

If I were to repair the chips and then hit it with m105, should I leave the blob raised and go straight to the m105 or should I flatten it out a bit?

Does the m105 do a good enough job of levelling it out without me prepping the raised spots?

What are the chances of me eating right through the clear using m105 behind the wheels where the rash is worst? I know I can't give you a paint thickness reading, but should there be some wiggle room? It doesn't look like any of the rash has gone through the clear as they look white, not blue or metal (or rusty).

 

 

So:

1. Acetone with a painters brush to clean the wound all along

2. Paint primer on the bare exposed plastic using the same brush. How much? Just to lightly cover the plastic?

3. Add touch up paint until it is raised.

4. Am I reading right...200 grit?

 

**Sorry typo 2000 wet sanded

 

5. After running the m105 on the orange pad, should I put down any clear or anything? Wax is enough?

 

*** m105 followed by m205 here is a handy chart...

http://www.autopiaforums.com/forums/detail-institute-presented-autopia-carcare-com/31619-meguiars-m105-m205-polish-pad-application-guideline-chart.html

 

How do I go about levelling the raised plastic edges of the chips? The stones pushed in and displaced the plastic causing it to rise up above the surface. I'm afraid that the rough edged plastic may rip the polishing pads rather than get sanded down.

 

I think you will do more harm than good sanding the plastic. Just tape off the edges you buffer may come in contact with so you dont destroy your pad.

 

What about in the engine bay?

 

Foam cannon would be great then just sheet the water from a hose with no nozzle. Obviously dont soak electronics. If you dont want to rinse use a damp rag to wipe loosened dirt.

 

Not if I have anything to say about it!

 

 

On the contrary, you've been extremely helpful and clear and I'd buy you a steak were you a little closer.

 

 

Well I personally really enjoy the results of detailing. I hate the work involved to get those results but it's worth it. To give you an idea of my personality once I have a car completely done ( they're really never 100% perfect) I procrastinate driving them just because I don't want to get them dirty. I know its a sickness.

 

I will say it again though with the amount of damage you have I would consider having a shop re-spray. If the majority of chips are only in the clear like you mentioned. A simple touch up deep chips and wet sand of the repairs and clear coat and re-shoot the clear, buff it out and you are looking brand new.

[Ecrissman]

I don't know what buffer you bought but I highly recommend the flex3401. Also what are the expensive products you are referring to M105 and M205? There are a lot of excellent products that are not very expensive. Given how you use you car and its environment I would not reccomend an expensive LSP (last step product) you need a good sealant for protection.

[Ecrissman]

Which waxes do not leave those crapy white spots on the black trim.

 

 

Good Caranuba or Caranuba synthetic blends don't leave white residue. I actually run it over the plastics around the doors, side mirrors, heater exchanger on the hood, gurney flap. Pinnacle Souveran and Wolfgang Fuzion are 2 very good products I have used.

[Ecrissman]

I am going to buy some Liquid Glass Polish, I want to see what its all about. My only experience was a friend I used to bracket race with that swore buy it. I can remember him using it outside in the sun, that was over 20 years ago. Here is an interesting article for anyone interested, it has some informative links within it.

 

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/product-reviews/47340-liquid-glass-true-lsp.html

 

http://www.carwaxblog.com/2010/04/whats-best-new-liquid-glass-legend-or-a-carnauba-wax/

[Mulanzo]

I don't know what buffer you bought but I highly recommend the flex3401. Also what are the expensive products you are referring to M105 and M205? There are a lot of excellent products that are not very expensive. Given how you use you car and its environment I would not reccomend an expensive LSP (last step product) you need a good sealant for protection.

 

 

I have the Porter Cable 7424XP DA. I'm new at this ...didn't want to jump into the Flex as that was REALLY expensive for a job I don't expect to do often. Many have had great results with the PC so I figured it can't be that bad. As for the products, its not that any of the individual products were expensive but the sum of all of them plus shipping tallied up. From what I recall, Klasse all in one, Collinite 845, P21s Total Auto Wash, Sonax Wheel Cleaner, Optimum Power Clean, Aquapel Glass Protector, 303 Aerospace, Black Wow Trim Restorer, a bunch of Surbuf pads and Foam pads EZ Brushes and boar hair brushes. I actually haven't bought the m105 and 205 yet because my supplier is sold out. I was considering doing An opti coat treatment in place of the Collinite.

[IngotSilverSnake]

I am going to buy some Liquid Glass Polish, I want to see what its all about. My only experience was a friend I used to bracket race with that swore buy it. I can remember him using it outside in the sun, that was over 20 years ago. Here is an interesting article for anyone interested, it has some informative links within it.

 

http://www.autogeeko...s-true-lsp.html

 

http://www.carwaxblo...a-carnauba-wax/

 

You will not regret trying Liquid Glass. Use the pre-cleaner before applying the first coat to remove any other wax residue. The pre-cleaner sets up the finish chemically to bond with the Liquid Glass Polish. The first coat is the hardest to apply. After that, it is easy. I allow a week or so between coats to allow a full cure. Put the car in the sun after applying to accelerate the curing process. Liquid Glass loves the heat and gets harder when exposed to the sun. The real benefit in both protection and appearance comes with multiple coats. I have over 60 coats on my 2001 Ram, 15 on the wifes 2011 BMW, and 12 on the Shelby. In my experience over the years, you need over 5 hard cured coats to begin to get stone chip protection. I have NO stone chips on the front of my 2001 Ram with over 90K miles and none on the other 2 cars either. I mimimize driving a new car unitil I get at least 5 coats on the finish. Sounds time consuming but it is not. I can apply a coat to the entire Shelby including wheels in less than 45 minutes. It is that easy to use.

[Ecrissman]

 

 

I have the Porter Cable 7424XP DA. I'm new at this ...didn't want to jump into the Flex as that was REALLY expensive for a job I don't expect to do often. Many have had great results with the PC so I figured it can't be that bad. As for the products, its not that any of the individual products were expensive but the sum of all of them plus shipping tallied up. From what I recall, Klasse all in one, Collinite 845, P21s Total Auto Wash, Sonax Wheel Cleaner, Optimum Power Clean, Aquapel Glass Protector, 303 Aerospace, Black Wow Trim Restorer, a bunch of Surbuf pads and Foam pads EZ Brushes and boar hair brushes. I actually haven't bought the m105 and 205 yet because my supplier is sold out. I was considering doing An opti coat treatment in place of the Collinite.

 

All good stuff, I have a PC as well just takes about twice the time but will get the job done, use a more aggressive pad with it (Orange). Klasse is good and opticoat would be perfect for your situation. Use a "thin" coat. I havent used P21 wax but have heard very good results and a friend on mine uses it on his black 2012 Shelby. I am sure the wash is good stuff.

 

If you don't have the Meguiars you could use Menzera super intensive polish and power finish. I like Menzerna.

[2012SilverSnake]

I am going to buy some Liquid Glass Polish, I want to see what its all about. My only experience was a friend I used to bracket race with that swore buy it. I can remember him using it outside in the sun, that was over 20 years ago. Here is an interesting article for anyone interested, it has some informative links within it.

 

http://www.autogeeko...s-true-lsp.html

 

http://www.carwaxblo...a-carnauba-wax/

 

I'll second IngotSilverSnakes' comment, I took th eplunge with Liquid Glass this summer and will stay with it: easy to use and a great shine.

[Mulanzo]

I'm entertaining another option. Wet Sanding. There's a guy in town who's really well known and does a lot of super cars for a decent price. His jobs are phenomenal. Would a Wet Sand be similar in result to a good polishing with a surbuf pad and m105 or Menzerna Intensive polish followed by a finishing polish? Or is Wet Sanding in a league of its own? I want to correct orange peel while I'm at it but I'm not sure if polishing with a PC will give me that benefit as well.

[Ecrissman]

I'm entertaining another option. Wet Sanding. There's a guy in town who's really well known and does a lot of super cars for a decent price. His jobs are phenomenal. Would a Wet Sand be similar in result to a good polishing with a surbuf pad and m105 or Menzerna Intensive polish followed by a finishing polish? Or is Wet Sanding in a league of its own? I want to correct orange peel while I'm at it but I'm not sure if polishing with a PC will give me that benefit as well.

 

 

Personally I have only EVER wet sanded vehicles I have had custom paint done to. I know what I am working with and how many coats of clear have been applied. But to your question I have read these and I think the following articles should clear up any questions you may have, enjoy.

 

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/wet-sanding-cutting-buffing/21974-basic-hand-sanding-techniques.html

 

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/wet-sanding-cutting-buffing/21463-removing-orange-peel-sanding-marks-griot-s-rop-wolfgang-twins.html

 

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/wet-sanding-cutting-buffing/21471-wetsanding-fresh-paint-vs-factory-paint.html

 

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/wet-sanding-cutting-buffing/25042-rule-thumb.html

 

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/ask-expert-featuring-mike-phillips/52289-surbuf-pads-m105-need-help-asap.html

 

[Ecrissman]

I'm entertaining another option. Wet Sanding. There's a guy in town who's really well known and does a lot of super cars for a decent price. His jobs are phenomenal. Would a Wet Sand be similar in result to a good polishing with a surbuf pad and m105 or Menzerna Intensive polish followed by a finishing polish? Or is Wet Sanding in a league of its own? I want to correct orange peel while I'm at it but I'm not sure if polishing with a PC will give me that benefit as well.

 

I occurred to me I didn't answer your question. Wet sanding is in a different league. Wet sanding will not correct the chips on its own. The chip is a physical removal of clear coat possibly base coat and maybe even primer. You can not sand down to level the defect until you are at its lowest point. So you would sand off all of the surrounding finish to that lowest level. While wet sanding you use a block or some type of backer to keep the paper flat against the surface.

 

Your buffing pad has give that will dip down into the defect and smooth the outer edges and make the defect less visible. Filling the chips and then buffing will make the defect even less noticeable and add protection to the surface under the touch up paint. The best DIY solutions is to fill as many chips as possible, wet sand with the lightest grit you can use (read links for critical info on proper techniques) then buffer the repaired area to bring out the finish.

 

If you brought me your car and asked me to repair the damage I would not take the job. I would refer you to a paint shop I have worked with and would advise you like this. Have the paint shop do the repair. They would wet sand the area until all defects are removed re-spray the base and re-clear. You would never know the area has been repaired. You worried that a respray would be noticeable in an earlier post, I will guarantee you your touch-up will be much more noticeable. Touching up a metal flake paint and getting the flake to lay exactly like the surrounding areas with a brush is not going to happen. Respraying is the only way to go in your case. Furthermore, if I were you and seeing where you live I would do nothing more than use an excellent sealant on the car until spring and all of the salt and aggregates are off the road so you can at least enjoy your new finish for a few months. I have had the front of my daily driver sanded and resprayed twice to correct the stone chips.

 

Hope this helps.

[Mulanzo]

Hey all. Just an update. So far everything seems to be going well. The weather hasn't been that great and I have been working like a mad man, however I got to some detailing tonight, specifically work on the front bumper. I'm happy to report that so far the marks seem to be coming out. I have topped up the divots with paint and then sanded down with 2000 + 3000 grit paper to flatten. For the very light dimples, I add clear instead of blue paint and do the same. Then I started with Megs UC and a surbuf pad. So far it seems to be a real improvement and the almost matte finish my bumper had is now gleaming again. Again I just did a small pass as I was very nervous, but the PC and the surbuf pad seem to be really easy to manage thus far. I'll keep you posted with progress! And thanks for all the input!

[joebob948]

For those of you that are so sold on Liquid Glass you might be interested in trying Astro Shield!!!!!!!!! It's been around forever and it creates a fantastic shine. I used this wax numerous times when I had my very first car ---a 1968 Camaro SS 396 and people would constantly ask me what I was using on my car!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[4star]

2012 GT500 convertible. Black/silver stripes. Had scratches and swirls. Paint is great overall. Some surface contaminates and etchings. Clay bar'd. Tried scratch x by hand with terry cloth applicator. Took scratches out but left swirls. Wiping with good microfiber. Tried LC blue foam applicator. Same same. Got at PC DA, orange pads and M105. Worked it in with good pressure for 3 to 4 passes then 2 passes with no pressure. Rolled it out in the sun. Not a swirl or scratch or hazing anywhere. The clear must be hard and forgiving. I figured I would have to go back with white pad and M205. I'm not going to touch it. LG pre cleaner and LG next. Looks awesome.