savannah Posted May 16, 2012 Report Share Posted May 16, 2012 allo anybody help me because i put spec ss trim clutch in my shelby 2007 and is hard to shift wen i put the clutch i put a new release bearing but the clutch wont completely disengage and still hard toshift and move a little bit went shift in first gear after in put ram clutch bearing a supose to have longer stroke and the car shift a little bit better but still similar problem went shift first gear the car move little bit i read on oder forum that some guy have problem with spec clutch they tell that is heavier and is the inertie that the syncro are not able to stop this inertie help me i dont know if it the clutch or the bearing i dont want to buy a new clutch excuse my english im from quebec Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
savannah Posted May 23, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 23, 2012 allo help me please Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
me32 Posted May 30, 2012 Report Share Posted May 30, 2012 Did u bleed the clutch after the install? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
savannah Posted June 7, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2012 yes i bleed the slave cylindre now i put off the spec clutch and i put a custom single dic clutch and i tink it will be ok i think that spec super twin is to hard to shift because he have to big diameter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
E.Marquez Posted June 30, 2012 Report Share Posted June 30, 2012 Have not not had any issues with the SPEC Super Twin clutch kit.. Installed one a few months ago and it's doing great, and started the install of one tonight,, New clutch, flywheel, OEM hydraulic release bearing, and pilot bearing ALWAYS.. Bleeding the clutch has only worked correctly for me when done as the service manual directs...using vacuum for 3 min then quickly releasing it.. push the pedal a few times and repeat till you have a full pedal and NO slack or dead pedal where it moves but does not have pressure.(that would be air in the system). Some have stated they could manually pump the pedal and bleed the air from the system,, .. if it works for them great,, Im on my 3rd SPEC install in as many months and 6th S197 install in the last few years.. .. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grabber Posted June 30, 2012 Report Share Posted June 30, 2012 You need to read the first post in the attached thread. It might help you: http://www.teamshelby.com/forums/index.php/topic/75716-kens-cobra567-spec-twin-ss-clutch-flywheel-install-79-build/page__view__findpost__p__1317562 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
springer Posted June 30, 2012 Report Share Posted June 30, 2012 I had a SPEC clutch, and had it removed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
E.Marquez Posted June 30, 2012 Report Share Posted June 30, 2012 I had a SPEC clutch, and had it removed. Perhaps tell us which SPEC clutch, what you did not like about it, who installed it, were new pilot bearing and clutch release bearing installed as well? Was the proper FORD PTFE grease used on the transmission shaft after cleaning? How did you perform the break in? I just finished the install of another SPEC clutch today..... it works well, exactly as anticipated... with no surprises or issues on install. .. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
springer Posted July 1, 2012 Report Share Posted July 1, 2012 Perhaps tell us which SPEC clutch, what you did not like about it, who installed it, were new pilot bearing and clutch release bearing installed as well? Was the proper FORD PTFE grease used on the transmission shaft after cleaning? How did you perform the break in? I just finished the install of another SPEC clutch today..... it works well, exactly as anticipated... with no surprises or issues on install. .. It was shot after around 1000 miles- installed by SAI. (stage 3+) I've posted on SPEC clutches before here and none of it was positive. There are many others that have had poor results with not only SPEC clutches, but their customer service rep who goes by Jeremy. Tons of info on SPEC can be found on the internet. This was my experience, and after dealing with Jeremy, all I can say is beware of this guy if your clutch goes "south" and have to deal with him. Here is a good thread on SPEC. As one gentleman said there, "I wouldn't put a SPEC clutch in my lawnmower." http://legacygt.com/...8078.html?amp; To be fair, there are guys that use, and haven't had a problem with SPEC clutches. They are too much of a "hit or miss." But their customer service was the deal breaker for me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
E.Marquez Posted July 2, 2012 Report Share Posted July 2, 2012 Incorrect install, failure to use all new pilot bearing and throw-out bearing, failure to recognize other related issues with transmission, proper lube of the pilot bearing or input shaft.. and or inability to drive a manual transmission vehicle..Those are reasons I see every day for clutch failures, and the likely reason for so many botched jobs found tied to SPEC, McLeod, and many other brands,,,, , and from those same folks, they will never admit it, and blame the product they destroyed in the process.. Just like that link you posted, sorry, but that guy is a tool... all he can articulate is .. "it sucks" .. He does not even posses the ability to describe an actual issue ...with the product.. in that thread.. No credibility what so ever.. To each his own, SPEC works great in all the cars I've installed it in, and thousands of others.... But sure keep blaming the product... if that makes you sleep well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
E.Marquez Posted July 2, 2012 Report Share Posted July 2, 2012 http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/engine-tuning-214/776020-t-56-magnum-mcleod-rxt-twin-disc-issues.html http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums/2005-2010/239954-problems-mcleod-rst-clutch.html http://ls1tech.com/forums/tags/mcleod.html http://www.fnsweet.com/forums/05-09-roush-mustangs/57313-anyone-have-issues-their-slave-throwout-bearing-using-mcleod-rst-4.html http://www.modularfords.com/f17/t-56-magnum-w-mcleod-rxt-175811/ http://boardreader.com/thread/Problems_with_McLeod_RST_clutch_15cibnX555e.html 10 seconds worth or searching, 6 threads on "issues" with just ONE model Mcleod flag ship clutch.. and you know what..... Id bet money, there is NOTHING wrong with the product,, just the installers or users, or both. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grabber Posted July 2, 2012 Report Share Posted July 2, 2012 I had a SPEC clutch, and had it removed. Alex has installed over 80 of these Spec units in members GT500's. He told everyone...if you don't like it that he will remove it for free. No takers so far. From what I have read....it is all in the install process. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
springer Posted July 2, 2012 Report Share Posted July 2, 2012 When customer service rep "Jeremy" from SPEC told me in a conversation that two Ford mechanics and two mechanics at Lonestar Performance do not build clutches and aren't able to determine whether a clutch is "shot" was it for me. I've never built clutches either but I know when one is "toast." Hell, I was even told that I didn't know how to drive a clutch - after owning 13 Mustangs to include two Shelbys, a Boss 429 and a 1974 Trans Am SD 455 4-speed and four Harleys. It doesn't matter to me how many SPEC clutches were installed in Palm Springs or Texas. While you can find anything negative on the internet today, the majority of negative posts I found on the internet concerned SPEC clutches, especially the single disc clutches. Further, there is one Mustang performance shop here locally that won't even install SPEC cluthces anymore due to the problems they've had with them. Of course, this is my response and my opinion, Grabber has his opinion and so do some others. When someone asks me which clutch I installed or recommend, I always relate my experiences with SPEC and do my best to steer them another way. When doing the research for my SPEC replacement, I did some internet research and went with a twin disc with an aluminum flywheel and have had "0" problems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jerseygator Posted July 2, 2012 Report Share Posted July 2, 2012 Alex has installed over 80 of these Spec units in members GT500's. He told everyone...if you don't like it that he will remove it for free. No takers so far. From what I have read....it is all in the install process. And break in period too... Sometimes they can be fried during this time period. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wingsnut Posted July 4, 2012 Report Share Posted July 4, 2012 [/b] And break in period too... Sometimes they can be fried during this time period. +1 IMO this probably represents a larger portion of clutch failures than people think. The same with bedding in new brakes, you gotta heat cycle them properly or you are eventually going to have issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jerseygator Posted July 4, 2012 Report Share Posted July 4, 2012 +1 IMO this probably represents a larger portion of clutch failures than people think. The same with bedding in new brakes, you gotta heat cycle them properly or you are eventually going to have issues. A perfectly good install goes right down the commode! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2010KonaBlueGT Posted July 4, 2012 Report Share Posted July 4, 2012 +1 IMO this probably represents a larger portion of clutch failures than people think. The same with bedding in new brakes, you gotta heat cycle them properly or you are eventually going to have issues. Having been in the Auto Repair business for most of my adult life I can safely say I've installed HUNDREDS of new clutches in cars. I have never, I repeat, NEVER had to break-in a clutch. In fact, I have never seen nor heard of any "break-in proceedure". AND...I have never had a failure on a clutch I installed. Plus, I had absolutely NO control of how the owner drove the car so I think I can safely say each clutch was "broke in" in a variety of different ways for each one I installed. Please tell me what the "propper break-in procedure" is for a clutch because quite franky, I've never seen nor heard of one. Brakes? Absolutely. There is a break-in proceedure for Semi-metalic and Metalic brake pads, no question about it. But clutches? Never heard of it. I also see that Springer said SAI installed his clutch so when someone blames the installer on his clutch failure, they're blaming Shelby American. And to be more than honest, it's real hard to F-up a clutch install. It either works or it doesn't (MOST of the time). I have seen one clutch install go bad because the tech didn't tighten the (diaphram type) pressure plate down evenly. He was a rookie Tech and that never happened a again. Phill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
E.Marquez Posted July 4, 2012 Report Share Posted July 4, 2012 I also see that Springer said SAI installed his clutch so when someone blames the installer on his clutch failure, they're blaming Shelby American. And to be more than honest, it's real hard to F-up a clutch install. It either works or it doesn't (MOST of the time). I have seen one clutch install go bad because the tech didn't tighten the (diaphram type) pressure plate down evenly. He was a rookie Tech and that never happened a again. many ways, was the new flywheel cleaned of all oils? Was the new pressure plate cleaned of all oils? Was the disk installed with the correct side facing the engine? was the multy disk clucth assembled correctly? was the transmission input shaft checked for run out and or excessive movement (bearings)? Wast the input shaft cleaned, checked for wear? polished and lubed? was the pilot bearing replaced? Lubed properly? was the hydraulic release bearing replaced as required? was the used flywheel if used properly ground? was it the shimmed the correct distance from the crank? was the pressure plate / friction disk / flywheel properly checked for installed height, and shimmed as required? that's 30 seconds of things off the top of my head that can and DO GO WRONG by untrained installers..... And yes, the clutch friction materiel should be bedded to the flywheel and pressure plate like any other friction materiel between clamping surfaces.. That you never considered it, is not uncommon. The process normally takes care of itself, as MOST vehicles are daily drivers,, and that bedding takes places as the vehicle is used daily. . But to a specialty vehicle owner that drives in the 10's or hundreds of miles a YEAR, or the performance specialty vehicle driver that wants to install a new clutch and get to the race track as soon as possible, bedding in that new clutch is a wise idea. That the average line mechanic would not know that is not surprising, though disappointing all the same. Guess I just am around a different kind of Service Techs, then you have been. To each his own, we are all a product of our environment and experiences. As for who has a different opinion and knowledge base on clutch break in then you...here is JUST A FEW.. SPEC http://www.spece30.c...-break-in#62803 The makers of Center Force clutch Advanced clutch Tech http://www2.advanced....com/technical/ Exedy http://www.exedyusa.com/race/faq Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mullens Posted July 4, 2012 Report Share Posted July 4, 2012 Alex has installed over 80 of these Spec units in members GT500's. He told everyone...if you don't like it that he will remove it for free. No takers so far. From what I have read....it is all in the install process. I have done some research on Alex and have emailed him. From what I can tell he knows his clutches and always answers inquiries personally.He hammers the point that they must be installed correctly. If I was keeping my '10 he would be doing my Spec install. That being said, I hope I never have to deal with Jeremy at Spec.From what I've read, he doesn't seem very user-friendly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snoopy49 Posted July 4, 2012 Report Share Posted July 4, 2012 From CenterForce: Do Centerforce clutches require a break-in period? Yes. It is recommended to properly seat in the new pressure plate and disc assembly to assure maximum clutch performance. Centerforce recommends 450-500 miles of stop-andgo driving before applying full engine power. If your driving consists mainly of highway type driving, extend the break-in period at least 250 miles. If the break-in period is not properly followed, clutch service life and performance may be severely reduced. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wingsnut Posted July 4, 2012 Report Share Posted July 4, 2012 Having been in the Auto Repair business for most of my adult life I can safely say I've installed HUNDREDS of new clutches in cars. I have never, I repeat, NEVER had to break-in a clutch. In fact, I have never seen nor heard of any "break-in proceedure". AND...I have never had a failure on a clutch I installed. Plus, I had absolutely NO control of how the owner drove the car so I think I can safely say each clutch was "broke in" in a variety of different ways for each one I installed. Please tell me what the "propper break-in procedure" is for a clutch because quite franky, I've never seen nor heard of one. Brakes? Absolutely. There is a break-in proceedure for Semi-metalic and Metalic brake pads, no question about it. But clutches? Never heard of it. I also see that Springer said SAI installed his clutch so when someone blames the installer on his clutch failure, they're blaming Shelby American. And to be more than honest, it's real hard to F-up a clutch install. It either works or it doesn't (MOST of the time). I have seen one clutch install go bad because the tech didn't tighten the (diaphram type) pressure plate down evenly. He was a rookie Tech and that never happened a again. Phill Here ya go, from major clutch manufacturers (centerforce clutch) http://www.mcleodracing.com/info/?id=5227 (last paragraph) http://www2.advancedclutch.com/technical/ (about half way down the FAQ list) Just like brake pads and rotors there is material transfer between the pressure plate, clutch discs and flywheel. Maybe it's just me, but these are fairly expensive items and would rather do it right and have it last. I never disputed that the clutch was installed improperly, only that not breaking it in correctly could cause issues. I am surprised that with your experience you have "never seen nor heard of any "break-in procedure" Chip Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wingsnut Posted July 4, 2012 Report Share Posted July 4, 2012 I guess everybody beat me to it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
E.Marquez Posted July 4, 2012 Report Share Posted July 4, 2012 , I did some internet research and went with a twin disc with an aluminum flywheel and have had "0" problems. Funny, Me too SPEC Super Twin is for street and track use in cars with extreme horsepower and torque (700-1500 ft lbs tq). The Super Twin offers near-stock drivability, tremendous life expectancy, a no shimming/setup bolt-in installation and maintenance free operation. With all billet construction, these units are smooth and quiet. The units are rebuild-able by SPEC or the end user and replacement components or rebuild services are always available. The super twin is constructed with aircraft grade aluminum and high carbon billet steel milled to an industry leading .001 inch for perfect balance and actuation. Friction is provided by dampened, full-faced carbon graphite discs. Organic, fiber and full metallic options are available. Aluminum Flywheel and track-spec hardware are included in each kit Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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