Full Shelby BMR package, what to expect?

[RMatovich]

I recently compiled all of the Shelby/BMR suspension I could for my 2008 GT500, along with a few other parts. What should I expect for handling and traction, lateral and straight-line? Other suspension/brake mods that are already done are SVT3 Handling Package, FRPP billet low profile axle girdle, Dynotech DS, Baer Erradispeed rotors, JLT brake coolers and Goodridge brake lines filled with Brembo LCF600.

 

K-Memeber 1/2" engine drop, with weld-in support plates

Fron LCA, non-adj with A-arm support brace

J&M Camber Adj Upper Strut Mounts (nice looking piece, hope they work well)

Rear LCA machined billet, poly bushing non-adj

LCA Relo Brakets bolt-in

Rear UCA poly bushing, adj with UCA bracket

Panhard rod poly bushing, adj with brace and relo bracket

Front swaybar end-links, adj

Bumpsteer tie rod ends

Rear tunnel brace and DS loop (direct from BMR)

Tubular sub-frame connectors, weld-in (direct from BMR)

 

...and beacuse the K-member was coming out I added Dynatech 1 7/8" x 3" longtubes and 2.5" X-pipe with PowerCat high-flows (sweet deal on these at AutoAnything, whole Dynatech kit for $900 after 15% discount). I also plan on moving the battery to the trunk and then moving the intercooler reservior to where the battery was.

 

With the headers I'll be running at about 560RWHP/540RWTQ on staock 18x9.5 wheels with Nitto NT555's all around. Will I be able to use second gear again? (also running FRPP 3.73 gears) Will the rear-end stop bobbing in hard cornering? What should the ride be like? Honestly, I just bought a bunch of good parts and hoped for the best. Will it be worth the $$$'s? Also, trying to get this car ready for 750RWHP...so keep that in mind.

 

Thanks for the feedback.

[dbackg]

Looks real good. Not much more to do.

 

Go enjoy her.

[muvover]

The only thing is the rear driveshaft loop will not work with a one piece driveshaft.

When the suspension is at full droop, as on a lift it will hit the brace.

When the suspension compresses it will hit the top of the loop/

I have one sitting in the garage because of this.

[SUPERGT500]

if you plan on 750hp or more i strongly reccomend weld-on relo brackets. i have first hand knowledge of this. do weld-on hard acceleration will move bolt-on brackets

[Kevin Patten]

I recently compiled all of the Shelby/BMR suspension I could for my 2008 GT500, along with a few other parts. What should I expect for handling and traction, lateral and straight-line? Other suspension/brake mods that are already done are SVT3 Handling Package, FRPP billet low profile axle girdle, Dynotech DS, Baer Erradispeed rotors, JLT brake coolers and Goodridge brake lines filled with Brembo LCF600.

 

K-Memeber 1/2" engine drop, with weld-in support plates

Fron LCA, non-adj with A-arm support brace

J&M Camber Adj Upper Strut Mounts (nice looking piece, hope they work well)

Rear LCA machined billet, poly bushing non-adj

LCA Relo Brakets bolt-in

Rear UCA poly bushing, adj with UCA bracket

Panhard rod poly bushing, adj with brace and relo bracket

Front swaybar end-links, adj

Bumpsteer tie rod ends

Rear tunnel brace and DS loop (direct from BMR)

Tubular sub-frame connectors, weld-in (direct from BMR)

 

...and beacuse the K-member was coming out I added Dynatech 1 7/8" x 3" longtubes and 2.5" X-pipe with PowerCat high-flows (sweet deal on these at AutoAnything, whole Dynatech kit for $900 after 15% discount). I also plan on moving the battery to the trunk and then moving the intercooler reservior to where the battery was.

 

With the headers I'll be running at about 560RWHP/540RWTQ on staock 18x9.5 wheels with Nitto NT555's all around. Will I be able to use second gear again? (also running FRPP 3.73 gears) Will the rear-end stop bobbing in hard cornering? What should the ride be like? Honestly, I just bought a bunch of good parts and hoped for the best. Will it be worth the $$$'s? Also, trying to get this car ready for 750RWHP...so keep that in mind.

 

Thanks for the feedback.

 

WOW ! First let me thank you for helping out the economy ( what a shopping list ) Question - are you going after a straight line or a cornering car or a compromise ?(because what works best on one doesn't on the other). IMO the M/M (Shelby) caster/camber strut mounts are the best and noise free.muvover is correct in what he says about the driveshaft loop and you definitely will want to weld in the LCA relocate brackets. You will probably get some noise from the rod ends on the adj. end links. The ride is going to be ALOT different then where your at now (using the front and rear lower arms is going to change everything along with the bumpsteer kit) but not in a way you may think. You are taking out the high compliance bushings and you are going to feel a lot more feedback through the steering wheel. Are the subframe connectors the ones that tie into the outer rail and reinforce the front tabs on the rear LCA ? IMO I try to always go with a heim joint on the upper arm when using a panard bar so the bushing doesn't go into a bind as the panard bar travels through its arc. Enough said - Enjoy!

[2010KonaBlueGT]

The only thing is the rear driveshaft loop will not work with a one piece driveshaft.

When the suspension is at full droop, as on a lift it will hit the brace.

When the suspension compresses it will hit the top of the loop/

I have one sitting in the garage because of this.

 

 

YEP! I can attest to this too. Fortunately for me, the Steeda site said the double hoop could be used with a 1-pc DS until I pointed it out to them after buying one and finding it hits the DS.

 

They took my double hoop back and I bought the single hoop DS hoop from them.

 

 

Phill

[RMatovich]

Answer to question...I was really trying to go for something in the middle. I plan on going to the 1/4 mile and road course. I'm not hardcore about it, just looking to have fun and not break the car in the process. My main goal was to stregthen the entire suspension system and chassis. I hope that the cornering will be improved and that traction will be better as well. I do expect the ride will be firmer and I like feedback in the steering wheel so that won't be an issue.

 

About the tunnel brace and DS loop, I called the shop (I trust them) and they said it barely touched at full drop on the lift and did not have any other clearance issues. Aslo, Shelby lists the parts for cars with 2-piece DS only, but BMR list the parts with this information, "NOTE: Care must be taken at full suspension droop when used with one-piece driveshafts." I'll keep an eye on it.

[dbackg]

I have the Steeda double loop with the Shelby-Dynotech one piece 3.5" DS. No problems. Had her up on the 2-post lift many times.

 

See post #50:

http://www.teamshelby.com/forums/index.php/topic/57401-dbackgs-super-snake-vert-upgrades/page__st__40__p__982906?do=findComment&comment=982906

 

http://www.steeda.com/store/steeda-double-driveshaft-safety-loop-ford-mustang.html

[2010KonaBlueGT]

I have the Steeda double loop with the Shelby-Dynotech one piece 3.5" DS. No problems. Had her up on the 2-post lift many times.

 

See post #50:

http://www.teamshelb...906#entry982906

 

http://www.steeda.co...rd-mustang.html

 

 

 

Hmm, that's really strange. You have a TON of clearence. I have a 2010 with the Ford Racing FR3 handling (& lowering) package so the shocks are shorter and hold the rear axle UP farther, and it wasn't even CLOSE to fitting in my car. The rear "V" that the DS passes over was easily 1" too tight. If I would have tried to force it, the carbon fiber DS would have been crushed by about one inch.

 

And when I called Steeda they said the double hoop was NOT for a car with a 1-pc. DS but their item description made it sound like it could be so the refunded my purchase and I bought the single hoop from them.

 

And that post you reference (by Alex) is the reason I went with the Steeda dual hoop.

 

Oh, and Steeda changed the item description because of my call and return.

 

 

Phill

[dbackg]

Phil, is your DS 3.5" or 4"?

 

Did you get your DS from VMP?

http://www.vmptuning.com/store/index.php?p=product&id=392&parent=110

 

CF DS is sooo sweet. We just installed one in my friends BOSS 302.

 

Send Alex an message, he has a 2010 too. Not sure if he installed the double loop on his girl.

[2010KonaBlueGT]

Phil, is your DS 3.5" or 4"?

Did you get your DS from VMP?

http://www.vmptuning...=392&parent=110

CF DS is sooo sweet. We just installed one in my friends BOSS 302.

Send Alex an message, he has a 2010 too. Not sure if he installed the double loop on his girl.

 

 

Uhhhh, I'm not sure on the diameter! I did buy mine from VMP and it's the PST Carbon Fiber DS shown in the link. I think it's 3.5" but can't say for sure.

 

I've had mine to just over 140mph and there is NO vibration what so ever. It's just as smooooooth at 140 as it is at 40.

 

 

Phill

[Kevin Patten]

Good to know that the shop is checking for issues while installing . Do they have a bumpsteer gauge and know how to set the shim height on the bump steer kit ? I don't know if it's too late to say but , I would have gone with BMR's "ladder" style subframe connectors instead of the single round tube style especially if your talking about going to 750HP. Also the adjustable end links usually are not needed but , on a 07-09 I recommend going to the 2011 + factory end links ( their stronger and do not make noise) because you can loosen the frame mount brackets to relieve any preload on the front bar that you may have. As others have pointed out on the driveshaft issue (which your shop guy has already checked) there are differences between brands not only on the loops but also on the droop length of shocks /struts and driveshaft diameters.

[2010KonaBlueGT]

 

http://www.steeda.co...rd-mustang.html

 

 

 

I just looked at your link and they may have changed the rearward mount on this. The item description clearly says it will work on a 1-pc or 2-pc DS up to 4" dia., up to 2010 MY.

 

The description on the unit I bought was real vauge, even the Steeda Rep. said it was (vauge) and admitted it was wrong, that the two loop item would NOT work on a 1-pc DS.

 

I think I printed a pic of the first one I bought. I'll see if I can find it and compare photo's. I'm thinking they may have changed the "V" depth in the rear mounting area.

 

All I can say FOR SURE, is that there is NO WAY it would work on my car, even with the rear axle up higher than a OEM rear axle.

 

 

Phill

[dbackg]

I have the Shelby Adjustable Sway Bar End Links.

http://www.shelbystore.com/Shelby-Sway-Bar-End-Links-p/5s3z-5a486-r.htm

 

They are super sweet.

[RMatovich]

Yep, those are the ones I got too, along with the Bumpsteers that look the same. The shop said they have everything needed for this kind of work. They do tons of high-end work at this shop, full engine builds, monster 4x4 setups, etc. They are very competent when it comes to suspension work as well as power adders and specifically GT500's and C6 Vettes. They are tuning a 900+ RWHP shop Z06 today with a new Qx1 ProCharger setup, should be up to 1100+...getting ready for Texas Mile. Very competent shop and nicely tooled out. If you're looking for a good shop near St Louis, check out www.cravenperformance.com.

[RMatovich]

Everything is on the car...I only have a few miles on it since I picked it up, but it already handles WAY better than it did before. The rear end is so much more stable and predictable and provides better traction. 2nd will still break it loose, but a couple of 315 Nitto NT05s on the rear should get it to hook up. I will definitely need to swap out the SSS Stinger axle-backs. They are pretty raspy sounding with the headers and high-flow cats on the X-pipe now. Any suggestions on mufflers? I kinda like the loudness, but the raspyness I can do without. I'm sure it will be there to some degree due to the X-pipe, but I think it can minimized. I'll get some miles on it this weekend if the weather is good and really see how it performs on some twistys, but initial impression is very positive. BTW, I was slightly worried about road noise, clunkyness and a rougher ride, but turns out that is not the case. I can definitely feel the engine vibration in the sterring wheel more, but other than that I think its actually quiter and smoother than before. I had nearly 52K miles on this car before this work, so I am thinking the existing system was worn and loose, upper strut mounts were broken and popping (of course...when will Ford actually address this issue on the Mustangs). These parts have freshened everything up again and it feels very tight and the steering is very quick and responsive now.

 

I would definitely recommend the Shelby/BMR pieces to any GT500 owner. They look great on the car and the shop said the fit was perfect across the board. Perhaps one downside is the enormous amount of grease fittings that need to be maintained now, but I like working on the car so hitting them with grease every 5K - 10K shouldn't be too painful.

 

Something else to note, on my car anyway, there was about .5" clearance between the DS and the tunnel brace/DS loop at full drop on the lift. I'm not 100% sure about about the other way around at the top of the tunnel around the loop, but it seems OK. I guess I'll know for sure when/if I bottom out on a bump and hear a horrible scrubbing noise.

 

Next is 19x9.5 and 19x11 wheels/tires, 10%/15% OD lower, C&R radiator, silicone hose kit, Shelby alternator, CobraJet TB, new axle-backs (maybe KRs), Shelby dash mount guage cluster and a 2.9L Whipple...and then off to the road course.