JeffJ Posted April 17, 2012 Report Share Posted April 17, 2012 Many of you know, the weekend before the Bash, I detonated the motor about two minutes after taking it off the dyno. Well, I finally got a chance this weekend to tear into it. Wow, I knew it threw rods out both sides of the block, but I certainly wasn't expecting this. I've never seen a piston compltely disintegrate like this. Some pretty amazing stuff. I thought I would start this topic with the carniage first before the build. Here's the remains of the piston in the pan: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffJ Posted April 17, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 17, 2012 Here's the new aluminator in the crate: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twobjshelbys Posted April 17, 2012 Report Share Posted April 17, 2012 Wow, that was major ex/im-plosion. Any idea what contributed to it? The new block looks great. Keep us updated. I'm assuming you're doing this yourself? Removing and re-installing the stuff from the old block to the new one always intimidated me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffJ Posted April 17, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 17, 2012 Yes, I'll be doing it all myself. We're still not sure of the cause. I need to drop the tank and pull the pump. I'm still somewhat concerned with the fuel pumps. It may very well have been a lean condition. However the stock rods are not very impressive on these, so may have been a bit too much boost also. It shouldn't have been, but obviously something was too much! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry T Posted April 17, 2012 Report Share Posted April 17, 2012 Looks awesome .... can't wait for more updates. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NordicShelby Posted April 17, 2012 Report Share Posted April 17, 2012 Did you pick up a Oil Seperator yet? Maybe a Whipple 550 would work better then a Paxton? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HARALD KELLEY Posted April 17, 2012 Report Share Posted April 17, 2012 Wholy crap. Look forward to the new build. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HARALD KELLEY Posted April 17, 2012 Report Share Posted April 17, 2012 Did you pick up a Oil Seperator yet? Maybe a Whipple 550 would work better then a Paxton? Cannot use the 550 with the auto, only the 475 whipple & tune. Basically the non intercooled as I recall when I was looking at my options. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NordicShelby Posted April 17, 2012 Report Share Posted April 17, 2012 Cannot use the 550 with the auto, only the 475 whipple & tune. Basically the non intercooled as I recall when I was looking at my options. I didn't know that and but I do know he would never get rid of his Paxton since he paid Shelby to install it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SGT/SC#0471 Posted April 17, 2012 Report Share Posted April 17, 2012 The 4.6 stock has hypereutectic pistons? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SGT/SC#0471 Posted April 17, 2012 Report Share Posted April 17, 2012 My guess would be too much boost heated up a Hypereutectic pistion where the top ring takes heat and then meltdown and you see the cunk missing from top ringland. Maybe with a bit of detonation to help it along.... Please keep us posted what the eventual cause is when you guys figure it out. Interesting, sucks but not so bad congrats on the aluminator!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SGT/SC#0471 Posted April 17, 2012 Report Share Posted April 17, 2012 Oops forgot the rods outside block! Carnage! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffJ Posted April 17, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 17, 2012 Hoping to get the block pulled out tonight and drop the pan if I have time after work. I'm really interested to see all the parts in there! I was able to rule out one cause last night. One tuner stated that he has seen one bad converter baloon which shoved the crank forward just enough to cause a fatal boom. I had just installed the TCI street fighter converter so gave that a far out possibility. When I removed the converter bolts last night, I was able to wiggle the converter in the flexplate just like it should. So no preasure against the plate there from the converter. So one possibility ruled out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwestercamp Posted April 17, 2012 Report Share Posted April 17, 2012 if you dont mind me asking and if you could pm me, what is the cost of an aluminator and what is the main differences between this and the "stock block" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SGT/SC2873 Posted April 17, 2012 Report Share Posted April 17, 2012 wow Jeff, sorry to hear but look forward to the build. Craig Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dh777 Posted April 17, 2012 Report Share Posted April 17, 2012 if you dont mind me asking and if you could pm me, what is the cost of an aluminator and what is the main differences between this and the "stock block" I short the aluminator is more geared toward Suprecharged applications The stock block is M-6009-463V*http://www.fordracin...tKeyField=10405 New production Mustang 4.6L 3 valve short block assembled in Ford Motor Company's Romeo Engine Plant Aluminum block with cast iron crankshaft Production connecting rods Production hypereutectic pistons Includes oil pump 9.8:1 compression with 3V 50.3cc cylinder heads and the aluminator is M-6009-A463SC*http://www.fordracin...tkeyfield=10374 Fits 2005-2010 Mustang GT Forged steel 8-bolt crankshaft Forged steel H-beam connecting rods Forged aluminum 16cc dish 3 valve pistons New oil pump Uses M-6010-A46NA block, knock sensor bosses are not removed from the block Approximately 8.7:1 compression ratio when used with 50.3cc 3 valve heads Lower compression for supercharged applications Built with all NEW PARTS Will accept 3V cylinder heads Will not work with 2V or 4V cylinder heads 8-bolt flywheel required (not included) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mywickedshelby Posted April 17, 2012 Report Share Posted April 17, 2012 looks all too familiar........sorry to see your original motor go kaboom! Will be following along......best of luck with the new build! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffJ Posted April 17, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 17, 2012 JPC racing had a real good deal on the Aluminator a few weeks ago for $3,200 shipped. Amazing is the fact that it was delivered from Livoinia, MI the next day. I ordered it Tuesday morning before the Bash, Yellow Freight called me on Wednesday while I was in line checking into the hotel in Vegas stating they had a delivery from Ford Racing. That is service! However I used this Aluminator, not the SC application with the lower compression. JPC and others I've talked to, stated they only use this one. The lower compression motor is really hard to drive on the street unless you are always building boost. Too low of compression where it has little bottom end power until you get boost. However with all the forged internals, this will hold far more power and boost than I will be putting to it. http://www.fordracingparts.com/parts/part_details.asp?PartKeyField=12039 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blkGT500nCA Posted April 17, 2012 Report Share Posted April 17, 2012 Dang Jeff, you blew it up good and proper! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffJ Posted April 18, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 18, 2012 Here's the best picture yet. Here's the contents of the oil pan. Not sure what I was worried about, the piston was right there in the pan the entire time. See, piston, rings, rod, it's all right there! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
springer Posted April 18, 2012 Report Share Posted April 18, 2012 Jeff is there a serial number on the block for the aluminator? It should be on the passeneger side of the block if there is one. I didn't see a serial number on the box from your photo. John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffJ Posted April 18, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 18, 2012 Jeff is there a serial number on the block for the aluminator? It should be on the passeneger side of the block if there is one. I didn't see a serial number on the box from your photo. John Yes, FRT adds this plate to the right rear of the engine: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SGT/SC#0471 Posted April 18, 2012 Report Share Posted April 18, 2012 Yeah but could you JB Weld those pieces back? Sorry could not resist! What a picture, wow! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HARALD KELLEY Posted April 18, 2012 Report Share Posted April 18, 2012 Wow to the oil pan collection. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffJ Posted April 18, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 18, 2012 I'm learning that putting an aluminator into an 5R55S auto tranny car is not just a plug and play operation. There is no 8 bolt flexplate which just works for this. On one you have to enlarge holes to fit the converter bolts, on another you have to space it....on and on. Best and cheapest solution appears to be using a truck V10 flexplate part number 1C3Z6375BA. Still not a simple bolt on. Here, if you are using the stock converter or a TCI, you must take the stock converter adapter plate to a machine shop to reduce the overall diameter about 1/4" to fit in the diameter of the flexplate. I already have the TCI converter, so this I must do. Oh boy! If you have a PI converter, you do not use the stock adapter plate, so there are no clearance issues, simple plug and play. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug_GT350 Posted April 18, 2012 Report Share Posted April 18, 2012 Here's the best picture yet. Here's the contents of the oil pan. Not sure what I was worried about, the piston was right there in the pan the entire time. See, piston, rings, rod, it's all right there! WOW! Good thing the screen on the sump did it's job, you wouldn't want to suck up all that crap!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffJ Posted April 18, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 18, 2012 WOW! Good thing the screen on the sump did it's job, you wouldn't want to suck up all that crap!!!! Yea, cause that could have damaged something! There is pretty much nothing useable from the engine. I found pieces of block in the water pump! Unbelievable where I'm finding parts and pieces! Might want to cut the oil filter apart and see what is in there! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anton Ruighaver Posted April 18, 2012 Report Share Posted April 18, 2012 Good thing the oil pan caught all the fallout... Wouldn't want to get a ticket for littering ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twobjshelbys Posted April 18, 2012 Report Share Posted April 18, 2012 Wow, that was a major implosion. I like the oil pan pic - it's almost a piece of art Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SGT/SC#0471 Posted April 18, 2012 Report Share Posted April 18, 2012 Wow, that was a major implosion. I like the oil pan pic - it's almost a piece of art Indeed! I have a piston with a valve stuck in it from the factory and for some reason ART is cast into the piston, I will try and post a pic later super funny. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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